slaskowski

My wife used our 2004 CTT as a daily driver here in Miami which now has 80K miles on it. We bought it as a CPO back in 2008 and until recently has been very reliable. In the past year we have had the coolant pipes repaired after they blew and then had to replace the water manifold gaskets about four months later. We are looking to hold on to it for another year and will then trade it in for another Cayenne (love the new models) There has been an issue with the warning lights coming on with the suspension for the past two years, however upon investigation it appears that it is not impacting the car and would be pretty expensive to repair/debug the actual cause. Recently there has been a few other warning lights coming on with the car. I have reset them with my Durametric SW however they keep coming back up. Can someone help me what the following: What the codes are Do they need to be addressed now Are they difficult to repair? My brother who is very mechanically inclined - he use to own a 1975 Audi 100LS so he fix anything :) P0441 Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow 1592 Air quality sensor Short to Ground or Positive 907 Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module Present 3 Control module faulty Short to Ground or Positive No signal / Communication

I had the rear hatch struts replaced in my 2004 CTT by a Porsche dealership up in Baltimore in July 2009 as the hatch would not stay up. Even though the car was under CPO, they would not replace them under warrantee as they were not covered under the terms of the CPO warranty (I guess that I should have written Porsche NA back then, but that is water under the bridge). The total cost at the time wsa $385. About six months ago, the hatch slowly started coming down and has gotten steadily worse. I need to address this again as it is my wife's car and she uses it to cart my 5 year old daughter and her friends around town. As you know the hatch it very heavy and could really hurt my daughter and/or friends if they were caught under the hatch. I felt dirty having to replace them once while under CPO, however I am really pissed that the struts have failed again and need replacement. I feel that Porsche NA should step up and pay the bill this time as it is ridiculous that hatch struts would have to be replaced again in a $100K+ car. We currently live in Miami so taking it back to the Porsche dealership that did the original replacement of the struts is not an option. What would you recommend my best course of action to be with engaging with Porsche NA? Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks - Steve

Tim - My coolent tubes went about a year ago. I guess that I should have pushed the mechanic harder to get the work done under warrantee :(

If you are a member and are looking for any electromechanical advice you are an idiot not to have made the investment in a Durametric. Sorry for the harsh words, but getting advice on any mechanical/electrical problem without a durametric code is like going to your orthopedic surgeon complaining about your knee without him having an MRI to look at.

Attached is the photo of my Recaro Vivo in my 2004 Cabriolet with my daughter fast asleep.

So I ended up picking up my car this past week. I was incorrect that there was gas in the engine (I originally thought that I did fill it up, however Amex confirmed that it was only $2 worth so it appears that car would not let me add any more gas) The final tab was $1800 (towing was $325). I am pretty pissed that it was so much money and I get the feeling that they were just putting new parts in until it started working, however I did not have much choice as I was stranded and was at the mercy of my mechanic (kind of like when your dentist tells you that you need to get some work done, you don't have too many other options). Not sure if in the future I should use him. I have enclosed the invoice for anyone that wants to check it out. Any thoughts if this seems excessive, as at this point in time I do feel a bit dirty about this entire endeavor. Steve 2004 Carrera fuel issue bill - June 2013.pdf

I have been using the Recaro Vivo HIgh Back Booster for the past 18 months and have been very happy with it (same goes for my daughter). I got mine from Amazon and would highly recommend it. Plus not to be a fashion whore, however have gotten a couple comments about having a Recaro child seat :) I did not have to make any modifications to the seating arrangement, just put down a towel so the plastic would not mar the leather long term and was good to go. It is only $75 on Amazon with free shipping so you might as well buy a new one for piece of mind/etc. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NYQYOW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a 2004 Carrera Cabriolet with 40K miles on it. Was riding yesterday afternoon from MIami to Vero Beach with my 5 year old daughter, 9 yr old English Staffy on our way to pick up a new puppy. I stopped by the rest area as we needed gas, filled it up (95% sure as I did this as went into the rest area - Florida has the feature on pumps that has auto stop when the tank is full). I started up the car after coming out of the rest room with daughter (another story all together) and the gas gauge did not move from it's original position from when I put gas into it. I thought that perhaps the autostop kicked in too quick and put more gas in it. It stopped less than 1/2 gallon later and could see fuel up to the nozzle. The gauge still did not move. I went in to ask the cashier what the last two charges were on at the pump (the receipt printer at the pump was broken). Told me it was $44 and 1.25 which makes sense. (BTW - I just called Amex this morning to confirm however the charges however have not posted yet) I continued driving and noticed that the gas gauge as well as the miles per empty on the digital read out in the dash was moving towards empty. I decided to stop at the next rest area and see if it needed more gas. Similar to before it only took a gallon before the pump autostop kicked in. Feeling better that it was a gauge issue I continued on. The gauge went to empty and miles per empty went to zero. I drove another 10 miles and the car acted like it was running out of gas. 45 seconds later I was on the side of I95 North. I tried to start it and everything sounded like it wanted to start (fuel pump, starter, etc) however it would not turn over. I called my mechanic and he told me that there was nothing I could do and that he would send a tow truck but it was going to take 2-3 hours. I figured that my chances were good that someone would pick up a grown man, a 5 year old girl and a pit bull (though I was thinking of the hitchhiking scene with Ben Stiller in "something about mary" ). It took me 5 minutes. A nice older couple drove us 20 minutes to the nearest Avis location where we rented a 2012 Ford Explorer. We ended up picking up the puppy and drove back in time for a late dinner with a very happy daughter/puppy (as well as a richer tow truck driver and mechanic) I was not able to pull any codes from my Durametric so I am flying blind here. Any idea of what the problem is? Also if you were me, what questions would you be asking my mechanic if you were me. BTW - The puppy is cute as hell

I have a 2004 CTT with about 77K miles here in MIami. Just finished getting some work done it (including a leak in the passenger footwell that I will post about later). I have the original CD maps and wanted to get newer versions. Is there a list of the map revisions that someone can forward me (what I am looking for is the latest version) I am assuming that eBay is the best place to get them, however I am open to other suggestions/ideas. Thanks - Steve

I want to thank everyone for their replies above. I a new complete lock assembly for $111 from Sunset imports. My brother and I were both able to swap out the door lock mechanism in about 90 minutes. Problem solved. Now I don't have to try to explain in Spanish not to roll the window up to the car wash person and parking valets :)

brapp - Any buyers remorse? I am thinking of doing the same for my Black 2004 Cabriolet Thanks - Steve

thanks for your help I did what you said and all is good. Many thanks.

I just bought the Recaro Vivio from Amazon for $90 for my 2004 911 Cab. My daughter is 4 years old, tall for her age and about 40 pounds. I bought the Carbon/Black color scheme as my cab is black/black. Have to say that it looks pretty good considering that it is a car seat in a Porsche. However my wife was freaking out when she first saw how high my daughter was sitting. Does anyone know how far up the rear roll bars pop up when activated? I tried to convince her that when activated they would more than cover the height of the seat, however she wants proof. BTW - My daughter thinks it is "super cool" to drive around in Daddy's convertible.

wvicary - Thanks for the reply. So wil the problem go away with the next couple of fill-ups or do I need to do continue to do some troubleshooting? Thanks in advance - Steve

One thing that I failed to mention whe I originally posted this thread, was that about a week ago my wife had the car close to empty (range was about 12 miles left). When i put gas in the car, i left the car running (which I usually do - though I bet that it is a stupid idea after reading above). I noticed some black smoke coming out of the exhaust, with some rough ideling. The car stalled and I had to turn the starter 2-3 times before it started (it ususly starts the first time). It idled a bit rough on the way hom but then is seemed to be OK. there was no engine lights issues.when I rode the car home. The engine liight with the above codes came on 1-2 days later. Is there any connection here or just a strange conicidence.

My wife's 2004 CTT has 70K miles and has been rock solid since we bought it over four years ago. The engine warning light just came on and I pulled the following codes this morning: P2187 - System at Idle Bank 1 P2189 - System at Idle Bank 2 P0441 Evaporative Emmision System (incorrect purge flow present) I cleared the codes, however the next time that my wife drove the car this afternoon the engine light came back on. It appears that the car is running a bit rough (according to my wife as I have not had the chance to drive it yet). It felt fine when it was idling when I was pulling the codes, but I did not get a chance to drive it to verify the rough running. Any suggestions on what the problem is? Thanks - Steve

Thanks for the advice. Sorry that you had to learn the hard way.

Richard - Wow, that is a very detailed write-up. Two quick questions for you (apologies in advance in the event that the questions are already addressed in your detailed write-up) 1) Is the "door open/closed microswitch" a separate switch or is it part of the whole lock assembly? I called up Sunset motors and they quoted me the entire lock assembly for $111. They are usually pretty good about these things, though I am hoping that they are wrong/incorrect this time :) 2) Do you know how hard it is to replace (or perhaps have a link to a write-up)? I would live with the issue, however I have to valet my car at my apartment building and I grit my teach every time they shut the door with the top up (which they do 90% of the time for liability reasons). Thanks - Steve

I am having an issue with my driver side window on my 2004 911 Cabriolet. When I open the door from either the inside/outside with the window extended, it goes down a bit when I open the door (as it is suppose to) but as soon as I let go of the handle it goes back up. Therefor when I shut the door the glass hits the top plastic frame of the Cabriolet (makes a horrible sound) I pulled the following code below from my Durametric: 60 Central locking limit position Lock not reached Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 I have seen in some other posts that it may be the window microswtich. A couple of quick questions. In particular: 1) Does it sound like ti is a micoswitch issue? 2) Is is worth re-training the driver window (holding if for 5 seconds in each direction after the window comes to a stop)? 3) What is the part number of the microswitch in the drivers door? 4) Any postings on how to replace it? 5) Is it a ***** to do or is it relatively easy. Thanks in advance - Steve

BTW - Was it a bad microswitch? I am having a similar issue with my driver side window on my 2004 911 Cabriolet. IThe window goes down a bit when I open the door but when I let go of the handle it goes back up. Therefor when I shut the door the glass hits the frame of my 2004 911 Cabriolet. I pulled the sane code below from my Durametric: 60 Central locking limit position Lock not reached Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 I was going to try to train the window again (hold 5 sec in the up/down position) however my gut is that it is a fleeting idea. Any recommendations from others would be appreciated. In particular: 1) What is the part number of the microswitch in the drivers door? 2) Any postings on how to replace it? 3) Is it a ***** to do or is it relatively easy. Thanks in advance - Steve

I have a 2004 996 Cabriolet with 30K miles on it here in Miami Beach (unfortunately it is black/black which looks great but gets **** hot in the summer sun) I noticed when driving in sandals/shorts (actually bare feet) with the AC on that I feel some cold water droplets hitting my right ankle. I feel the droplets about once every 3/4 minutes only with the AC running. With shoes/socks you would never feel the amount of water. IS there a drain that is either potentially clogged or disengaged that would be causing this? Thanks in advance - Steve

Just installed the unit last week. Took about 10 minutes to install. It works as advertised. You need to remember that you need to hold the button for about 1 second then let go. If you hold it too short, nothing happens. If you hold it too long, it will act like the standard switch (as soon as you let go it will stop) Overall easy to install and great support (I had to contact them because I was holding the switch too long) . I would highly recommend it to any Cabriolet owner. I bought one, and here is my honest and as much as I can objective feedback, given that this is a 79.00 part. While the closest thing is about twice the price. It works fully 75% of the time, what does that mean? 75% of the time, I press the button and it does the whole thing perfectly (open or close full cycle) 15% of the time, I press the button, and nothing happens, have to press it again or keep it pressed as the automated part was not there 10% of the time, I press the button and it starts opening or closing, but the rear flap stays open (after the convertible opens or closes), have to press the button, and keep it pressed for the rear flap to come down For some reason, it does not light up with the interior lights. Tyler provided great customer service, the first one was even more erratic than the second one. He shipped a new one immediately upon contacting him. He also acknowledge the problem with the lights, I can live with it.

Just finished installing the second tray as well as the upgrade from Becker Sound in NJ to add a 3.5mm connection to the CDR23 radio. As per the suggestion, I put the connector in the middle of the bottom tray which I also highly recommend. I now have amble space for my wallet/sunglasses/etc as well as music from my iPhone. I would recommend the following cable as the one that was supplied from Becker would not fit the female connector on my iPhone due to a protective case that I have on it. I would recommend the following 3.5mm male-male cable which I bought from Amazon for $9 (plus it look much nicer - my interior is also black) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031U1ATG

I have a 2004 CTT with about 65K miles, so far been pretty bullet proof. I just started getting a warning light on my dash that things are amiss with the air suspension. The warning light goes on about 30% and it happens about 10/15 minutes into a trip. I cannot fell any difference in the car when driving. When I turn the car off/on, the warning light goes out. I pugged in my Durametric last night and got a code 1772. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is and if so is it something that I can fix myself or does it require me to take it to a pro to fix. Thanks in advance - Steve

Many thanks for the advice/tip. Regards - Steve