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Goombatz

Contributing Members
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About Goombatz

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 05/05/1976

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.MarketAgent007.com
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  • Yahoo
    marketagent007

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Los Angeles
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster 2.7; Black on Black; Soft-top; Chrome 17", 205/50 ZR17 front, 255/40 ZR17 rear; 5-speed;

    2008 Cayenne S; Black on Black; Blackout Kit; Moon Roof; Rear Spoiler; 19" Rims, AWD
  • Future cars
    2007-2008 Cayman; 2005 - 2007 Boxster S
  1. This might be a long shot but, if your Boxster is a convertible, get inside, close the doors and roll both windows down. Put the top down. Wait a couple of seconds, then put the top back up and lock the safety latch. This should make both of your windows roll up automatically. Hopefully that works. Good luck and keep us updated.
  2. Thank goodness the results weren't as bad as I thought. I decided to take my car to indy Porsche mechanic, luckily he was able to complete the job without having to drop the engine. He removed the front motor mount (which is pretty easy to do). Then he raised the engine a few inches in order to provide enough clearance (from within the passenger compartment) to drill a straight hole into the broken stud and extract it. The stud that broke was at the top of the water pump. If it was was one of the bottom studs that broke, he probably would have lowered the engine a few inches to gain access. If one of the middle studs would have broke, he probably would have had to drop the engine. This is what caused the stud to break - I screwed in one of the longer studs into the shorter stud's hole. There are 7 mounting studs, 2 of these studs are about 1/4" longer than the rest which means the holes the long studs screw into are deeper than the rest. As I was tighetning the stud, it was becoming harder to tighten and it maxed out, next thing I knew, it snapped. I was doing this blind because I was underneath the car, reaching up and tightening the stud at the top of the WP. I didn't have a clear view. I should have went into the passenger compartment and tightened it from up there. It's important to keep track of the holes each stud comes out of when you R&R the water pump.
  3. Well, I called one mechanic who I trust and he turned the job down. He said he doesn't want his guys doing that type of work. Why would he turn it down? Is it because it's a risky job or is it really that simple that it's not worth his time? Maybe he just thought I wanted the stud extracted and that's all...
  4. 1Schoir: There's approximately 5 inches between the engine block and firewall with the water pump removed. There's plenty of room to fit your hand in there comfortably to remove the stud with a socket wrench but I'm afraid it's too cramped to perform a decent stud extraction without messing up the original threads or engine block. I viewed some videos on YouTube on stud extraction. It seems relatively easy however, I noticed that in most of the videos they were performing the extractions on a work bench or in an area with plenty work space. I've decided to let a pro handle this since I haven't performed one of these before. I'm positive my mechanic will want to drop the block but, it would be great if he didn't have to because I know that dropping the block would affect the final cost. I assume he'll perform the following: - Drop the block - Remove the water pump - Stud extraction - Install water pump - Install engine - Flush & refill engine coolant I'll report back with results and estimate.
  5. - 2001, 2.7L Boxster, 5-speed, 94k mi. I broke one of the studs while replacing the water pump. The good news is, it's the stud that has the easiest access from the interior of the car, with the access panel removed. The bad news is, I can tell the stud probably broke flush along the block. I have seen stud extraction tools but I haven't used one before. It seems as though one would need A LOT of working space to properly use stud extraction tools. I'm afraid the best way to tackle this project is to drop the engine for optimum access... which I'm not capable of doing due to lack of equipment and time. Has this ever happened to anyone? If so, is this a job for an average DIY guy such as myself or should a pro handle this? I attached a photo, the red arrow indicates which stud broke Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I believe I may have busted the driver's side seat cushion because now it seems about 1 inch deeper than the passenger's side. The other day, after leaving the gym from a strenuous leg workout, I opened the driver's side door, then dropped into the seat because I was so exhausted. When I did that, I felt something pop under the seat. I'm 6ft tall and weigh about 175lbs, it's hard to believe springs would break under that amount of weight. I have an '01 986, with 91k miles and I'm the original owner. It's in good to great condition. Can the seat be repaired easily? Or, will I be paying a visit to the Porsche dismantler? If so, is it possible to purchase only the seat bottom and not the seat back? Has this ever happened to anyone? Any advise would greatly be appreciated. -Best.
  7. It turns out that it was a failing Air Oil Separator. I had to take my car to the mechanic so he can diagnose the problem. I'm also having him do the work which really bums me out because I would much rather do it myself. I'm so busy with work that I don't have any time to spend.
  8. Specs: 2001 Boxster, 2.7L, 5-speed Manual, Approx 80k miles. I noticed a hissing sound coming from the driver's side of the engine - it's much more noticeable on the driver's side than the passenger's side. It sounds like air leaking from a tire or balloon. It's pretty loud. I can hear it when I'm driving approximately 35mph. The hissing sound is also noticeable when the engine is idling. The engine runs great, smooth idle, no loss of power, no check engine light. I don't believe it could be the Air Oil Seperator (AOS) because that is located on the passenger's side of the engine but, I'm not an expert. From what I discovered in this forum and others - it might be the AOS. Within the last 12 months, I performed all the following: replace spark plugs & coils; Oil change; MAF cleaning; replace air intake filter, replace polyrib/serpentine belt; replace cabin filter. I know the AOS was replaced about 40k miles ago. Any other ideas or input would greatly be appreciated.
  9. I have the exact same symptoms in the video posted on this page. It recently started about two weeks ago. I have 74k miles, 2001 Boxster, 2.7L, 5 spd. I plan on selling in about 10 - 12 months and I really don't plan on investing a lot of money when it comes time to sell. What happens if one neglects to repair the Secondary Air Pump? According to a lot of my research here, the noise is normal. Has anyone heard or know about serious consequences from Secondary Air Pump failure?
  10. White vinegar worked great for me. I spent a couple of days buffing out water spots - one freakin spot at a time. I used lots of micro-fiber towels and 50/50 solution of distilled white vinegar and distilled water. Sometimes I used 100% distilled white vinegar. There were a few stubborn spots that were hell bent on sticking to my bumper, so I used a color wax treatment. My Boxster is black, I used black Color Magic. This worked great - no more spots. Then, I had my car professionally detailed to bring back that factory showroom finish. :)
  11. My engine would vibrate pretty bad about 3k RPM - especially on the freeway - about 70 MPH. I decided to change the front motor mount myself (with the help of all these wonderful people from Renntech.org). :renntech: Changing the mount made such a difference, my Boxster was fun to drive again (2001, 2.7L, 5 speed, conv. 70k mi.) About 1k miles later, the vibration started up again, it wasn't too bad but the engine was running rough at all speeds. I replaced the spark plugs and installed new ignition coils, this made such a difference! Not only was the engine running smooth, I also felt like I regained a few horsepower! 2 months later the engine vibration started up again - this time it felt really rough, the whole car was vibrating around 3k rpm. I thought it was from installing a crappy engine mount - either i didn't tighten everything up good or maybe it was a defective mount. At this point, I was thinking about selling my car because she was running too rough, she needed new tires, and I was starting to believe her age finally caught up with her. So I bought 4 new Hankook EVO tires (on 17" rims), had them balanced and 4-wheel alignment. Now my car rides like a dream - so smooth, stable and handles great! I had no idea really worn out tires would make a car feel like crap. I really milked those tires - very bald on the inside. It's possible I may have lost a wheel weight too.
  12. My engine would vibrate pretty bad about 3k RPM - especially on the freeway - about 70 MPH. I decided to change the front motor mount myself (with the help of all these wonderful people from Renntech.org). :renntech:Changing the mount made such a difference, my boxster was fun to drive again (2001, 2.7L, 5 speed, conv. 70k mi.) About 1k miles later, the vibration started up again, it wasn't too bad but the engine was running rough at all speeds. I replaced the spark plugs and installed new ignition coils, this made such a difference! Not only was the engine running smooth, I also felt like I regained a few horsepower! 2 months later the engine vibration started up again - this time it felt really rough, the whole car was vibrating around 3k rpm. I thought it was from installing a crappy engine mount - either i didn't tighten everything up good or maybe it was a defective mount. At this point, I was thinking about selling my car because she was running too rough, she needed new tires, and I was starting to believe her age finally caught up with her. So I bought 4 new Hankook EVO tires (on 17" rims), had them balanced and 4-wheel alignment. Now my car rides like a dream - so smooth, stable and handles great! I had no idea really worn out tires would make a car feel like crap. I really milked those tires - very bald on the inside. It's possible I may have lost a wheel weight too.
  13. Germans drive on the same side of the road as we do (Left hand drive), unless you are referring to some Asian & British market Thank you for correcting my statement about the German models. Here's an update on my squeaky brake situation... I picked up my ride from the dealer yesterday... they "cleaned" the rear brakes to eliminate the annoying squeak. The dealership is about 15 miles away from my home... the drive home was during the "evening crush" in bumper-to-bumper traffic... and I was anxious to see if the brakes were going to squeak during my drive home. The squeak disappeared and all is well. I will closely monitor my driving habits over the next few months to see how soon and often the squeak arises... hopefully it doesn't happen any time soon.
  14. I was told to try the same thing which honestly, I'm looking forward to trying however, that stunt is something that I feel I shouldn't have to do every single time the brakes squeal... especially when I'm cruising clients all over town. The service tech at the dealer said the brakes were made more for high-speed German highways... which I understand and respect but if the original German models are right-hand drive, and American models are left-hand drive, don't you think it wouldn't be too much trouble for Porsche to engineer "American" style brakes?? I hate to say this but, I used to own a '07 BMW X5, and I traded it in for an 08 Cayenne S, and the only reason why I traded it in for the Cayenne is because the Cayenne looks awesome, and the performance is better bar-none, however, it doesn't really compare in luxuriousness to the X5. I would rather sacrafice some "bells and whistles" for performance. I guess overall I'm completely happy with my Cayenne and I wouldn't want to drive any other SUV... I'm just disapointed with the brake squeal.
  15. Hi Everyone, I'm having some issues with my 08' Cayenne S. As I read in this Forum, Cayennes have a problem with "squeaky" brakes at low-speeds such as driving in bumper to bumper traffic, coasting at idle-speeds, through a drive through, parking lot, etc. This happens after the brakes have been heated up. The brakes work fine, there's no fade or anything, they simply annoy the heck out of me and my clients (I drive my clients all around town in Los Angeles). I took my Cayenne to the dealer and he said that this is a common problem and there's not much they can do about this. They can try some different things but they said the problem will return. According to this Forum, previous year/bodystyle Cayennes have had the same problem. I'm really bothered by this for several reasons 1.) If Porsche new this problem existed, then I believe they should have fixed that problem for the next-gen body styles. 2.) I think they should remedy the problem at no-cost to me granted that it's still under warranty and the brake pads/rotors are still good. I have less than 8k miles on a 13-month old vehicle. 3.) I didn't pay over $75k for a nicely equipped Cayenne S only to have my brakes squeal when they heat up. Would this be a manufacturing or engineering issue and not a wear-and-tear issue? Anyway, enough about my gripes... here are a few questions: 1.) Does anyone have any other ideas or solutions for a remedy besides lubing up the rotors?? 2.) How much more expensive are Ceramic pads?? 3.) Do you think the dealer should remedy the squeaking problem at no cost? Thanks for your feedback!
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