Stefan

I'm undecided on whether or not I like the matching calipers. But the paint job looks very nice.

I have to ask...

Is it a coincidence that the valve stems are at the bottom or did you jack it up and turn the wheels for the picture?

Also, are those regular lug bolts? They look like they are female bolts.

Try resetting the key head by removing the battery, putting it in backward for a few seconds, then put it back in correctly. That technique is recommended by Porsche.

I wouldn't use Silicone. It has deleterious long term effects on the rubber.

Many people use Gummi Pfledge rubber lubricant. Let it dry before closing the windows.

I have heard of using baby powder too but I haven't tried it.

Yes, thank you CJ. I mistakenly misread you as being the "supplier".

Very nice!

How many are in a "set"?

Do you believe that they will be as strong as the old ones? When the bushings wear out, can the bushings be replaced indpendent of the actual arms?

-S

P.S. Do they come in Ocean Blue? :P (Just joking)

It is almost certainly a heat shield, not the muffler itself. It is a very common problem. The bolts that hold the heat shield in place rust out causing the rattle. It is pretty easy to fix too.

I painted mine myself using Testors model paint. It has been over a year and it still looks great (to my eye, anyway). In the picture it's looks gray but it looks silver in real life.

It sounds like you're saying the mirror glass w/heating unit are inextricable. That's what I thought based on my attempts to pry the two apart.

Thanks for your help, Loren.

Nope, US.

The heated portion seems to be some flat fabric/metallic mesh that is glued to the mirror. Attached to the back of the mesh is a black plastic piece with tabs to connect to the mirror motor.

My side mirror creaked whenever I cleaned it. So I decided to take it off to lube up the creaking part. I followed instructions I found online for removing the mirror. The instructions essentially said "just pull hard". Well, I did that and the mirror broke. So I bought new mirror glass for cheap from an online place that cuts glass.

The size and shape of the new glass is perfect. But I cannot seem to remove the heated element from the cracked glass portion. I am hesitant to stick the new mirror onto the old as I suspect the heating won't work very well through two panes of glass.

Can anyone offer advice on separating the glass?

Do I have to get the whole thing (glass + heating element) from the dealer? Looking at the PET I cannot tell which is the correct part if that is so.

On Pet, Year 1999, Illustration 809-10 I see

996 731 035 01 mirror glass

996 731 035 02 mirror glass

996 731 037 01 mirror glass convex

996 731 036 01 mirror glass

996 731 036 02 mirror glass

996 731 038 02 mirror glass convex

996 731 038 04 mirror glass convex

My car:

1999 Boxster 5-speed w/heated mirrors

K&N is pretty vigorous about dispelling this rumor. And they put their money where their mouth is. I'm guessing that they are correct and that the rumor is incorrect.

Ref:

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/MAFTestresults.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massairpledge.htm

Another thing to try is to wiggle each plug while someone watches the light. If the plug has condensation or isn't plugged in all the way it may not be making good contact.

I've made countless changes to my car and I have to say that upgrading the stock suspension to ROW M030 was the best money I ever spent. I got the kit for about $900 (complete - sway bars, springs, shocks, bushings) and installed it myself.

It is a bit pricey but if your suspension is getting old, some of the components will need to be replaced anyway. I changed mine out at 60k miles (mine is a 1999 2.5L Boxster). The ride got smoother, cornering is flatter, and handling is improved all-around. All-in-all the kit is a great deal and well thought-out.

One other thing to mention is that Porsche recommends you jack the car by the jacking points when removing the cross brace to avoid alignment issues. In other words, don't use ramps to do this job.

The fill plug is tight enough that you can't just pour a new bottle of fluid in so make sure you have some way to get the new fluid in. I used a long tube stuffed in the fill hole and filled from above the top of the engine.

You can lower the engine enough to make this job much easier without any major work. Loosen the three bolts on the front motor mount. They are on the bottom of the car and easy to get at. You will also need to loosen the (many) bolts on the cross braces.

I have done this a couple of times using 4 jack stands and a floor jack in my driveway. It isn't very complicated.

The simple 555 timer circuit can be made for less than $10 in parts from Radio Shack. The cancel operation can be made (basically) by attaching the output of the timer through both ends of the switch into the reset pin.

I think it would be in better spirit to charge a more realistic price for the units or post the schematic so that others can make them too.

It's probably the strut bearing, a common problem.

You need a changer.

That's pretty funny, especially the European cabinet hinge. I wonder what the passenger would think of the relative priorities of music versus passenger safety (no airbag, right?)

Push on the edge with your finger and the other side will pop up.

Can you tell me what hardware you used for your PST2 units? Did you require the Bosch interface card?

If anyone is interested I have made a couple of PST2 units that are exactly what the dealer uses for all the 2004 and earlier models. Infact I replaced a local dealers actual PST2 with one of mine when his unit broke and Porsche and Bosch told the dealer they didn't service the units anymore.

If anyone is interested let me know..

Wow, that sounds like a lot of pain. I'm getting ready to purchase my second replacement (third MAF overall). Were you able to determine that the MAF was actually bad? It would be a shame if the configuration somehow prevented the MAF from giving the correct signal but that the MAF would work fine in the correct configuration.

I'm still looking for another non-egas car to test my MAF in to verify that it is bad.

I just checked pin 2 and found that it is 12v (engine off) and 14v (engine running). So that is correct and a bad MAF is my only remaining explanation.

Your responses is not at all rude. I agree with your reasoning except that if a different air intake gave a non-uniform airflow, the amount of air going past the MAF could be different. In my case, I don't think that is the problem because the output voltage of the MAF is usually 0v, when it should be higher, even at idle.

Still I am at a lack to explain the problem. I put in a new MAF on a car with the proper voltage and grounding and no (detectable) leaks. Yet the output of the MAF is incorrect. I haven't yet checked the voltage on pin 2 and that is the remaining check. If that isn't getting the 12v then that would completely explain the problem.

There is a possibility that the first MAF was worn out and that the second is just defective. But it is a $300 experiment to see if that is the problem. I'm thinking of finding another pre-2000 Boxster to put my MAF into and see if the output voltage is correct. That would immediately tell me if there is some problem with my configureation.

Now, to find a pre-2000 Boxster in the Boston area with an owner who is willing to have me try my MAF in their car... :-)

Good point. I will check that. Thank you.

Update:

I put the stock air filter and housing back in and cleared the code. The code came back.

I subscribed to AllData and tried their (probably really Porsche's) diagnostic tips. I

- Checked the resistance between MAF pin 5 and ECU pin 17

It was within spec (0.7 ohms, spec says 0-5 ohms)

- Check the continuity between ECU pin 15 and ground

It was within spec (Infinity ohms, spec says infinity ohms)

(Not in the list but seemed obvious)

- Checked the continuity between MAF pin 4 and ECU pin 47

It was continuous (0.2 ohms resistance)

-----

One thing that struck me as strange is that the MAF description says "The operating voltage range [of the MAF] is 9-17 volts"

Yet everything I have read says that the input voltage of the MAF is 5 volts, which is clearly not in the 9-17 volts range. And I measured the voltage to pin 4 as 5v.

Does anyone know whether there is some pin on the MAF plug that should be in the 9-17 volt range or if my previous assumption that pin 4 should be 5v is incorrect?

If that fails I may have to get _another_ MAF on the assumption that the EVO intake somehow messed up my MAF. If the inputs to the MAF are correct and the air intake is stock then I don't see how the problem could be anything but the MAF.