Stefan

Here's one:

http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?14,154...186#msg-1548186

I would think that if the leak was in the sending unit area you would be able to smell it with the windows up (and the vent open).

That is my DIY for the radiator fan on PPBB (new link - http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509...04#msg-1509504).

With this hack, the fan will go on automatically; no need to fuss with a switch. The procedure is identical for the 996. You remove the relay, put in a jumper wire, reinstall the relay.

You can try resetting the windows by briefly disconnecting the battery. But before you do that make sure you have your radio code. And also don't worry if the car runs rough for a few minutes while it relearns the mixture adaptation parameters.

You should definitely let the car sit overnight before replacing the fuel filter. And note that just turning the ignition on without even starting the car will pressurize the system.

Here's what I would do:

Start your car, put your finger on the relevant low-speed fan relay, and turn on the A/C. After a brief delay, you should be able to feel the relay click.

If the relay clicks, then you can check to see if voltage is being sent to the front of the car. There is a connector behind the carpeting on each side of the front trunk that connects the relay to the ballast resistor. You can test for voltage there.

If there is voltage at the connector in the front and the ballast resistor is new and installed correctly, then the fan is not working and you will probably need to replace it.

I don't have the wiring diagrams for the 996 (I own a 986) so perhaps someone can chime in with the correct connector pin that carries the electricity to the fan.

I disagree with this. I have been saved many times from laser by my high-mounted V1. When a car up ahead is hit with the laser, reflections of the beam can be detected from a fair distance.

If your front plate gets hit with laser, it is already too late.

Lidar is a very small diameter beam and is aimed at flat surfaces like a front license plate. Detector needs to be mounted low to detect it. Especially if you are at close range.

Why did you remove the front bumper? That is not necessary for this job. If you pull back the wheel well lining you can get at the connector and access to the resistor itself is from underneath (even with the bumper in place).

There is something I would add: For easier access to the bolt holding the column lock assembly to the steering column, remove the instrument panel

Sounds just like what I said a few responses up. ;)

I would try removing the electrical portion on the back of the old lock and see if the key can then be inserted.

The stock mounts only last for between 40k and 50k miles. I got one of Pedro's mounts and I expect it will last much much longer. It is clearly more sturdy than stock.

The rear backing plate also serves to hold the spring for the parking brake so you can't just remove it.

I just completed this job and I have a trick that makes the job a lot easier. If you remove the instrument cluster (~5 minutes) and unscrew the plastic piece just under the cluster, you have full access to the entire right side of the lock cylinder, including the bolt and nut that people are scraping their hands trying to get at.

Using this trick, you also have access from both sides so putting things back together is much easier since you can use both hands or whichever is easier.

If the resistors had both failed then there would be no fans running until the temperature was higher than normal running temperature, then both would come on at full speed, however, with the air con on both fans run at full speed all the time, so i cant see that the resistor theory is correct.

That's not quite true. The fans will go on high speed if the coolant temp is above 216°F or if the freon pressure is above 16 bar.

It is measuring the mass of air flowing through the intake tube. It is likely grams/second. It is supposed to be between 4.44 and 5 at idle with the engine warm.

RFM

What does the reading of 4 to low 3's mean? What are the numbers measuring?

Try unplugging your MAF and see if the problem goes away. If so, it's likely that the CAI destroyed your MAF. I recommend putting the stock intake back in.

I had the same problem and the eventual solution was to use a big pry bar with one hand and hit it with a solid hammer with the other. It still took quite a bit of effort.

I had a similar problem on my 986 and it turned out to be play in the ball joint on the lower control arm. If I grabbed the rotor and wiggled it I could feel a small amount of play. But when driving, it made the car awfully wiggly, as you describe.

Start with the things that are easiest to diagnose.

The problem is likely one or two bad ballast resistors. With the car not hot, turn on the A/C and verify that both front radiator fans go on. If not, then that's the problem.

The problem with your car could very easily be the ignition switch. I recently fixed a car that had the same symptom and a new ignition switch (just the $8 electrical portion) fixed the problem completely.

Not to beat a dead horse but my hack makes the high speed fan come on whenever the low speed would have (i.e. A/C on or temp > 206°F). High speed normally runs when the temp is at 215°F.

With my mod, the low fan speed is replaced with high fan speed. It should generally make the car run cooler. With the A/C on the fans are normally low speed (until the coolant temp gets above 206°F). With my hack, and the A/C on the fans will run at high speed all of the time.

You're supposed to disconnect the coolant hoses on the bottom of the car to drain the last bit of fluid. I just squeeze the hoses repeatedly to get it out but to be completely thorough you really should disconnect the hoses.

The OE Bosch MAF is available for your car for $170 from AutoHausAz. How much was the Chinese unit and what is the brand?

Old box spring sound in the rear is usually the lower control arm. There's no fix short of replacement I've ever heard of for that.