Stefan

I wish that was the solution. The contacts won't move if you rotate it because the contacts are radially symmetrical.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement

Isn't that for a Boxster....?

Yes, you're right. Sorry about that. The procedure is similar for a 996 but not exactly the same.

Let's not confuse two separate issues here.

It is involved and complicated to remove the convertible top from the frame and install another.

It is quick and easy to remove the convertible top with the frame and to reinstall it.

The people that are having problems are universally trying to do the former, not the latter.

Hi Stephan,

Did you find the Dunlops on 205/55/16 for the front and 225/50/16 for the rear exactly as Porsche's specs? I can't find the ones for the front at TireRack, all I can find is 205/45/16 for the front, which I am assuming is too 'low'...

Thanks,

Gustavo

Yes, Gustavo. Here is exactly what I got (in 10/2005):

Item Description Availability Qty. Price Each Item Total

205/55VR16 Dunlop Winter Sport M3 IN STOCK 2 $109.00 $218.00

225/50VR16 Dunlop Winter Sport M3 IN STOCK 2 $124.00 $248.00

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Perhaps that model has been superceded. I would call them and ask. They have always been very helpful when I've spoken to them on the phone.

The dim light is probably not the actual headlight, but a small 5W marker bulb inside the headlight housing.

It sounds to me like your headlights are not properly seated or you have corrosion on the connector for the headlight housing. Just because the headlight is in tight doesn't mean that the connector is seated properly.

You can try (gently) pushing on each headlight while the turn indicator is on to see if that affects the connection.

Affirmed, the 996 and Boxster removal is almost identical. (I've recently done both). The process is very straightforward.

Note that most of these screws are torx screws.

Also, if you have two people it goes about twice as fast (as long as you have two sets of torx screwdrivers) and the actual removal and replacement of the bumper skin is a less hair raising with two people.

I think "Carrera" is every bit as recognizable -- if not more so -- to the general public as "911".

The first thing I would do is check for moisture under the seat. If it is moist, I highly recommend you dry it out before using the car any more. You don't want to do further damage to the electronics.

The unique bolt pattern on the Porsche wheels means that you are unlikely to find cheap aftermarket wheels. That being said, a set of 16" OEM wheels is pretty cheap (a few hundred $ total).

I have used two different snow tires on my 16" wheels, Blizzak MZ-01 and Dunlop Winter Sport M3. The former gets excellent traction in the snow but drives like garbage on dry roads. The Blizzaks just cannot get stuck. They can pretty much drive up the side of a block of ice. The latter drives very well on dry roads and is competent in the snow. Their ice performance is not so great and they do slip a bit in the snow. If you only deal with occasional light snow these would be great tires.

The ideal in New England would be somewhere in between IMO.

Are you replying to the correct thread? I don't remember your mentioning the convertible top light being on.

In any case, that is caused by a problem with the switch (or wiring to/from it) that senses the clamshell down position. If you raise the clamshell, you can see the switch in the middle right under the back of the clamshell. Try playing with the switch to see if the light flickers. It is easy to replace the switch if that's the problem. But if you have been monkeying with the wiring at the convertible top relay, you probably disconnected the wire from this switch and you just need to reconnect it.

I use anti-squeal compound (in spray form). I bought one bottle of the stuff 10 years ago and I still have plenty left even after installing several sets of pads. It is easy to apply and my brakes never squeal or squeak.

You're welcome.

Everything else should work perfectly. There is still a separate wire that goes from the handbrake switch to the cluster to indicate that the parking brake is on. So when you pull up the parking brake, the light should still come on.

You didn't cause any problems. You grounded the wire that turns on the brake light, that's all.

You want to ground pin 15, but not the wire that connects to it through the back of the relay panel.

This is done by either by bending the pin (and connecting a ground to the bent pin) or by pulling the handbrake wire from the back of the relay panel and putting a grounded wire in its place.

I did the latter because I wanted it to be completely reversible.

I'm thinking of buying one of those gauge sets for my 1999 Boxster. If the price is right, I might unload it from you...

You know that you have to disconnect the wire from the back of pin 15 before you ground it, right?

It's true that they are in very tight from the factory. But also keep in mind that loosening of a bolt that is facing away from you requires you to turn in the opposite direction. Make sure you're not turning the screwdriver the wrong way.

I couldnt manage to find that tool in the two tool-stores I went to, so now I ordered a screwdriver T30 from a online store :) It seems the screw i VERY hard :)

Thanks again... :renntech:

For street driving, I don't think a brake upgrade is necessary. The base boxster brakes are excellent.

I don't have a picture of the tool handy but it is a very cheap (a few dollars) part you can get from the dealer.

To check the shift alignment, you pull up the shift boot, put the car in neutral, and see if the plastic shift alignment tools snaps into place. If not, you have to remove the center console to adjust the cables.

Here is one option for custom fabrication (no personal experience with them):

http://www.emachineshop.com/

Just to clarify, it's not a Torx screwdriver you need. It's a Security Torx Screwdriver. The former is much more commonly found but it will not work.

I'd like to see a picture of the SC install that blocks the spark plugs. I didn't think there was enough space between the coils and the suspension/body to put anything substantial.

There are several ways that this can happen.

- The headlight connector (on the car) can be corroded

- The headlight connector (on the headlight unit) can be corroded

- The headlight might not be snapped in properly

- The bulb socket may be corroded

- The bulb filament may be flaky (partially connected)

- Some LED bulbs cause this behavior. :-)

I have seen all of the above many times. Moisture does sometimes get into the headlight area. Two of the above could easily happen on only one car if you swapped the headlight unit between two cars.

I am definitely going to put a resistor on the MAF. That makes complete sense given that there is no way for the MAF to know the volume of the intake tube.

I am concerned that a standard 5% tolerance resistor will not be precise enough given that even a small variation in the MAF output makes a big difference. Places like Radio Shack only carry the gold (5%) tolerance resistors. Perhaps I'm being too particular.