Stefan

Just a thought, that any power steering pump, even perfect ones, will make noise if they are up against something on the body. This includes lines.

This is a good point. I did use an electronic stethescope to verify that the sound is coming from the pump. If I remember correctly, the pump is bolted directly (without any dampeners). I will definitely check to make sure it is mounted correctly.

You still might have an alarm zone open.

The center console cubby can seem latched when it is not. Also, the switch that detects it is closed can fail or get errantly disconnected, especially if someone removes the center console.

I will definitely do it myself. I am planning to get a remanufactured pump and will probably replace it in a couple of weeks. I expect it will be pretty straightforward and I would be happy to take and share pictures.

I got under the car and rechecked the lines and they looked fine. So I drained all of the fluid by disconnecting the lines and draining.

I disconnected the polyrib belt and turned the power steering pump by hand to get the remaining fluid out. The fluid did look a bit murky but I don't know if that's normal (I know it doesn't come out of the can that way). I refilled the system and got all of the air out using the factory recommended procedure.

The sound is just as loud as before. I used an electronic stethoscope to verify that the sound is coming from the pump and it was. So it looks like it's a new (actually rebuilt) pump for me.

Thanks again for the advice, folks.

Here's the procedure for a Boxster.

http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Procedure

I don't know if it's the same for a Cayenne.

I wonder if it would be possible to replace the bottom seat cushion with one with less thick padding. Just an idea. I've never tried it.

Awesome, thanks for the response.

I suspect that the pump needs to be replaced. The sound is definitely coming from the back. But as I added fluid many times I suspect that it might have gotten contaminated.

My car is a 1999 Boxster 5-speed with a 1999 3.4L 996 engine.

The power steering fluid level is stable but the power steering hums constantly when the car is running (idling or not, turning the wheel or not). There doesn't appear to be any leak and the fluid level is correct.

I figured that before I do something radical like replace the PS pump that I would try replacing all of the fluid. I tried a strategy suggested by one board member, which was to siphon off the fluid from the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid. I did that several times over a period of months but the power steering noise is still there and is quite loud.

Is there some way I can replace all of the fluid at once, perhaps by disconnecting one or more power steering line at the bottom of the car and letting the fluid all flow (or drip) out?

I bolted the amplifier to a wooden board. I used rubber plugs to affix the board to existing holes in the car's sheet metal where the OEM amplifier bracket goes.

The reason Porsche removed the requirement to replace the fuel filter is that they changed to a returnless fuel system so less fuel is going through the filter.

I quoted the part number he gave me (986.331.043.07) which is called "control arm" in PET.

I'm seeing it as "AS TRAILING ARM" but the part number you gave does appear to be correct so I suppose it doesn't matter.

Loren, are you sure you've quoted the correct part? Part #9 is the lower control arm and I thought part #8 was something like "transverse control arm", which IIRC is cheaper.

I would seriously check the programming codes since that is probably the issue. Either that or the shop doesn't know what they're doing.

If it comes down to it, I have an extra DME I can sell you (with the correct programming codes). But I really don't think you need to replace your DME.

("Boxsterra" here)

There are two heat shields on each side and all of them have a tendency to rattle. The ones in the picture (front) are very difficult to fix as they are originally spot welded and the weld breaks over time. I ripped them off and replaced them with heat wrap.

The rear heat shields cover the cats (secondary cats on your car, only cats on my 1999). Those can be fixed by replacing the bolts that hold the shields on.

The easiest way I have found to locate these rattles is to get under the car with a rubber mallet and pound the exhaust until you hear a rattle. Then touch each of the heat shields until the rattle stops and you've found your problem. Of course this should all be done with a cold car. (The cats get super hot)

Also, make sure that the lever on the non-working latch is rotating as far forward as the working latch.

Additionally, make sure that when you turn the non-working lever that the actual bottom part is spinning.

See here for more details: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12561

You could install a second cigarette lighter (accessory power outlet). That's what I did. The stock one snaps right in.

Just got a call from the shop they confirm that 6700rpm is probably boxster program. The thought is that it didn't take the flash and a new ecu is going to be $2000. Any thoughts. I'm thinking maybe it wasn't flashed. There notes say it was. So at this point they will look at the car and try to reflash it if this doesn't work where can I get a ecu that can be flashed for less than $2000.

Mitesh

I agree that the lower redline is an indication that the flash was not successful. If you have the correct programming code and they are doing it right it should take the flash. I had a problem flashing mine and it turned out that the dealer had mistyped my vin and therefore given me the wrong codes. When you enter the wrong code the error message the PIWIS gives you when you try to change the program is totally vague and it's not at all obvious that the problem is an incorrect code.

If I were you I would doublecheck the programming code before spending a ton of money on an unnecessary DME replacement.

Stefan can you tell me more? Why did you have to add pins to your car? Thanks JES

The pics are fine. Don't worry about the size. They get reduced automatically. And you can go back and edit your own spelling by pressing "Edit" just below your post.

My car is a 1999 Boxster with a 1999 996 3.4L engine and a 1997 Boxster wiring harness (that came with the engine). I had a persistent P0453 error too and it took me a while to figure it out because I didn't realize that I had a 1997 harness. When I finally took apart the X3/1 plug to verify connectivity between the pressure sensor and the plug, I saw that the plug was missing the female connectors at positions 1 and 22. So I added the wires from the DME to those positions and reset the code and the P0453 error has never been seen since.

Ok, that makes sense. I had to add those pins on my car because I have a 1999 chassis with a 1997 harness.

Note that the connector X3/1 (the black 30-pin connector on the left side of the DME in the rear trunk) for MY97 doesn't have pins for the fuel pressure sensor. So you will need to add those to that plug too, not just the DME.

On the Boxster, the sensor is on top of the fuel tank. Here is a picture:

Hey thanks Todd i agree i am just not able to find this unit. Maybe if i could find a part nbr or picture it would help. The bentley manual shows pressure sensor right on top, aft of the fuel pump for 98MY and talks about how this is a change from 97MY. Could it be part of the fuel pump itself? JES

The tank pressure sensor is on top of the fuel tank. To get at it, remove the battery and battery tray.

Here is a picture (sensor is circled in red). Note that in this picture, the sensor is unplugged. The plug is just below the sensor in this picture:

Since you have had the exhaust modified (even though it was put back) I suspect that first. A leak in the exhaust system would cause these codes.

I'm not sure what code you mean by 0105. Perhaps you mean P0506 ("Idle Air Control - Engine speed too low") in which case you should check your air filter.

In any case you might want to try running a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner through the system.

Other than billows of white smoke coming from the talepipe, the telltale sign is oil in the intake after the throttle body.

Also note that this is posted in the wrong forum. You want the 986 forum.

is it a bad cap or are they supposed to do that at thigh pressure?

The cap has been updated since your car was new. Check the last two digits of the part number printed on the cap.