Newfarm

Thank you so much Loren! :D

I have a 2002 C4S with factory aerokit. The lower front spoiler lip has gotten a bit of a crack in it, and I'm trying to figure out what part number to order from Porsche. The front lip in question: I'm guessing its one of these two, most likely the latter: 1) 996-505-555-0201 2) 996 505 986 01 G2X The latter is also about 4-5x as expensive as the former unfortunately :-/

The charge is by far more stable now, it used to vary up and down between 12 and 14v, resulting in "oh please please please crank over" moments after filling up gas etc every now and then. Thanks again for the help :)

Oh man, just finished the job. Put about 10.000 light hammer taps on the long bolt, it didn't go back in all the way, but it must've gone that thousand of an inch further in. It was still basically stuck, but it did loosen just that much. I did start tapping the lower part of the alternator with a wooden hammer, used a big screwdriver and silly amounts of time to get it irked out. Finally did get it out, replaced the voltage regulator and got it into the basement to deal with the pressed fitting. Very easy to get it back into "default" position with a pipe on the backside in a vice. That did the trick. At this point, I sort of figured out exactly how easy this job is if the bearing decides to properly pop back in after a few knocks during removal. Installation was stupidly easy with the bearing pressed in. Thank you all for the help, your help was, well, very helpfull :D.

Well that does make more sense :). Ran out of time tonight so no work on the car now either, that's the downside of a job where I'm on call (the upside being that I can afford this car :P). Going to try again tomorow.

Thank you for the thoughts on cam deviation logray, very interesting indeed! I have read the thread you link to before and it does have some good pointers. The car is running fine with my values, but something is definately wrong somewhere. I'm wondering if perhaps a pad could be worn out on bank 2 (I think the pad on bank 1 was replaced at around 109.000 km, earlier this year) or if the sproket has loosened. Or any of the other things you've mentioned. My car is a 3,6l x51 though, wonder if it changes things. I couldn't find a variocam activation in durametric to play around with, I can only activate the lift and they're both called the same. If I do activate those drive links, the engine sputters to death instantly. This car has variocam pluss though, I presume that might have something to do with it? Would've been nice to be able to test the cam actuators as well, but kind of hard to do with nothing to activate.

Thank you both for the great tips. I'll probably have time tonight to have a go at it, last night I ran out of time and only made it to the car to add some wd40 to the "points of contact" between the engine and the alternator. Rapewta; you're understanding it right, I'm unable to "turn" it around, but I'll try again :). logray: do you mean I should use a pry bar between the intake and the alternator to get it free ?

Thank you very much Loren! The guides I've found on the net never mentioned step 5. I have a fairly strong feeling that step is, by far, more important then one would think. As for step 4, I merely loosened the bracket and put the bolts back into the manifold to ease the access as they where no longer in the way, might be beneficial to remove it all together, but I'll have to have another look. I'm not so sure a "gentle tap" in step 7 is accurate either as I was unable to get it to "pop" in with some light-ish taps with a hammer and a piece of wood. I think I'll try to get some wd40 onto the threaded bushing, don't really know if it'll manage to penetrate into there, but it shouldn't hurt either I think. I'll have to look into step 5 some more. If I'm unable to get this loose I'll probably have to flatbed it to PCO to get this sorted, which, for a simple alternator removal, is quite amazing :-p. Thank you again.

I'm trying to replace my voltage regulator and have been following the very fine and detailed guides around on the net. However, I'm utterly unable to get my alternator out. I'm also unable to get it back together, so as it is right now the car is not running. Whops. Are there any great tricks to get this going? Just copious amounts of wd40 on the pressed bushing to get it pushed back in? And then "twist and turn" the alternator out ? I've never seen the pictures for this on a x51 as mine is, could the metal intakes be tighter then the plastic ones or am I just too afraid to "punish" it to get everything loose? I never thought I'd have to make a topic to get an alternator loose, but here I am

If you have values outside what the car thinks is normal, you'll get an errorcode. P0011 for bank 1, P0021 for bank 2. I'm in the middle of trying to figure out why I have a P0021 myself while the car itself is running fine. Durametric shows a deviation of about -12,7 for bank 2 on my car.

Any good way to test that actuator logray ? Are we talking the "Oh my what happened there" kick of the variocam at 5800 rpm or so? Because those I should be able to activate directly in durametric and get a fairly lumpy idle if I've understood what I've read correctly.

Nope, haven't really checked anything physical. My garage is a whee bit too tight to get this car up on the jackstands I have, is this bracket accessible from the top or sides or something? My technical abilities are probably a bit higher then what I'm probably giving the impression of here, but I've only had this car for about 4 weeks or so and don't really know it that well yet :-).

Just a little "for whatever its worth" - the water seal is said in the Porsche docs to be replaced if the entire thing is ever removed. If only three sides are loosened up, Porsche says you need to reseal with bytul (spelling?) - it's the horrible, black, sticky stuff that you'll find in these places. Used back in the day to seal front windscreens and what not. I'm sure ductape should work as well though if you're very careful :).

Also; does it *try* to lower the window? You can test this with opening the door and holding the handle open and gently (GENTLY) trying to push the window into the door. If it goes down and letting go of the door brings it back up, you have a worn out window regulator.

Hello, I really hope someone here might be able to help me figure this out. Recently I got a CEL and drove the car to Porsche locally. They hooked it up and found a few codes, one was P0021 and the other one for one of the lambdas. The tech said the lambda one could most likely just be from the fact that the timing was off. We decided to clear them and see if things got better on their own. The cell hasn't returned, but today I got my durametric cable and was able to have a look in there myself. The P0021 is back, but not the lambda one (hence the lack of a CEL I presume). Some info on the car and milage: Milage at the moment: 115.000 KM New engine: 104.000 km (from a German indy (albert motorsport)) New oil pickup: 105.000 km (about the same milage as the original P0021 first came) New AOS: 105.000 km (about the same milage as the original p0021 first came) New chain tentioners: 109.000 km Anyway, there's something that seems to be a bit off, attatched are some screenshots of actual values while the car was idling tonight. I have a suspicion that the timing is a whee bit off on one of the cams (intake?). As is, the deviation is obviously out of the +/- 6 dgrs range but should only be about 3 degrees out of actual spec on the cam itself if I've understood how this actually works. Also, this is a X51 3,6l if that changes anything at any point. Edit; was a new AOS that was put in at 105k km, I'm not all that fluent in german so had a friend look at the paperwork today and turned out it was the AOS. Live and learn!

After 5 days the fob won't work. You'll need to open it up with the key and then insert the key and turn it a few notches (or start it, cant remeber) within 15 seconds or the alarm will start.

Sounds like it's the microswitch that tells the car wether the door is actually open or not that is borked. It probably thinks its closed all of the time. That should result in the behavior you're seeing. That's unfortunately all I can contribute with, except for.... if you're going DIY, be careful when removing the cover over the inner door handle. It's very easy to break the uppermost fasteners / clips. Ask me how i learnt that today.

I have PCM1.0 and I'm running a 2010 disc from an Opel/Vauxhall. The procedure is as follows; you first need the official Porsche 2002-1 CD as this contains a software update to the navi. Second, you'll need the actually updated maps from a Vauxhal / Opel dealer or friend with them. Disclaimer: I only know of these discs for europe and I myself only have the disc for Scandinavia. I'm not even sure Vauxhal has maps for the US, but someone else might be better qualified to answer these questions. (EDIT: I forgot; Richard Hamilton is on this board. He is by far the most qualified to answer these questions that I know of and helped me getting my setup running. Very helpful and friendly guy.) And for the record; 2010 maps in the old PCM1.0 works well, but ANY current generation navi system will walk miles around it. But it works and now I allways have an updated, working navi with me :-).

Newfarm, sorry to go off topic but what wheels are you running, and are you on stock suspension? Your 4s looks very aggressive! Thank you and no worries, I've been on vacation for a bit, will get back to your PM as soon as possible :-). (Short answer: 19" and H&R coilovers).

New regulator according to all the post I have seen on this. Got a new one myself in the garage waiting to be swapped over :-)

Put them side by side and its very noticable :-). Compared my C4S with a C4 over at the dealership yesterday and the difference is very much so there. And thats just the body. The C4S has more kit as default as well.

Well, technically the C4S and the Turbo ;-).

Hello! Just picked up a '02 C4S this weekend and I have some fairly minor issues with it. This one is a bit weird and I've only been able to find one other post on this board about it in the TT section () but with no sollution found. I occationally get an intermittent whine from my left, front speaker. It will follow the alternator, but it's not depending on the alternator to be there. As in, it will not go away by simply killing the engine. However, turning off and on the litronics will kill it. Simply turning off the lights does not help, it's there until they fire back up. I made this youtube video of it: Has anyone seen this before ? I find it fairly odd and don't really have that many great ideas to what it can be. Perhaps a bad grounding on one of the litronics ballasts that somehow recharges and dissipates when the lights are turned on again ?

I'm sorry for bringing such an old thread back up from the dead, but I'm having a very similiar issue with my new-to-me '02 C4S. It comes and goes, not on the 10 minute timer that the original poster here described, but apart from that it's pretty much the same. The whine follows the RPM if the car is running, but it's still there if the engine is shut off. Anyone have any sort of idea where I could even begin to troubleshoot this one ? I was thinking maybe some little-used fan in the HVAC or something like that (mostly because I belive there are some of these fans around and behind the looms that has the wires to the speaker(s)).