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dj996

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Everything posted by dj996

  1. I like the Weltmeister and Cargraphic pedals better, the Ruf look like the rubber pieces would come off easily. But I haven't seen them in person.
  2. Tony, small changes in the blue cable will affect how the shifter centers. Mark the cable and then try slightly different cable positions with the blue cable. Make sure you can still engage all the gears and give it a try. This may make a small difference in how the shifter centers, worth a try if it bothers you. As Loren says, cable adjustment will not change "tightness".
  3. You can change the ring and pinion in a 996, I have seen the parts advertised. However, the tranny itself can't be serviced,how stupid is that?? That is very good news Jim, what shops are doing it?
  4. Tony check your cable adjustment, that may affect the midline position of the shifter. Oalvarez, here are some pointers based on my experience. I wouldn't use loctite just yet, you may need fine adjustments. The set screw on the new shifter must face towards the front, this makes future adjustment very simple vs complete removal of the console for access. Mark your cables and adjust the shifter per the Porsche TSB. Please feel free to Email or PM with any questions. :drive:
  5. I would use the short shift that Porsche chose, the B&M. As far as using the Evo needle bearings with a B&M, it works and seems to fit well, but it does create a little extra play in the shifter. Actually with the Evo needle bearings it is very easy to change back and forth between stock and B&M, can be done in less than 30". :drive:
  6. I don't think I would want steel braided lines on a street car.
  7. Another possibility might be the positive crank-case ventilation valve, this could cause the smell of burning oil after a hard run. This is a normal occurence. The master tech at the dealer recommends keeping the oil level one marker bar below full on the digital gauge, if you're tracking (hard driving) the car.
  8. The full install is a huuuuuge job. I was going to do it a couple of weeks ago and I bailed, just not worth the hassle right now. My hat is off to Eric for his accomplishment.
  9. RJ you're starting down a slippery slope....:) Intake systems can potentially make some good horsepower or lose a lot more power. Stay clear of the "cone" intakes, there is no power to be made with hot air. The NA 996 is the same as any other NA engine in that it will benefit from colder air induction, it's nothing new as the muscle car era is a good example ("Cowl Induction", "Shaker" hoods, "Grump Lumps" etc..."). We saw a solid 5 HP at all RPMs on the dyno on our old small block racing engines with adding a stack to the carb attached to a hood scoop. So there may be some power to be had on the 996 too, this has been shown on PCA class 996 race cars. But if you're after improved sound then I think the Fabspeed is pretty good, some people even make their own setup but I could never find the right plug. Maybe Loren can help with that part. The only thing I might worry about would be the potential for a CEL.
  10. Thanks for the TSB Eric, but I'm going to retreat to higher ground for the time being. I had the whole back of the car torn apart but when it came to dropping the engine down to remove the intake I decided to pull back and re-evaluate. This is very typical of Porsche to do everything as complicated as possible, but I'm of German decent so I understand :D . What would happen if I just hooked the PSE straight off engine vacum without any electronics? It would be pretty simple to T a vacum source off one of the vacum lines in situ and run it straight to the vacum modulated valves on the mufflers. Would it be analogous to the old Holley 4 bbl with vacum secondaries that opened up at full throttle with a change in vacum?
  11. There is a rubber grommet on the passenger side under the rear window-firewall area. This is used to pass the PSE wires thru by Porsche. You have to remove the rear deck carpet/padding and the rear trim under the window.Not to worry, it all snaps back into place. You can use the service manuals or even the PSE TSB for more detailed instructions.
  12. A little project for the long weekend :D . I'm going to install the full setup complete with the switch. The PSE comes with all the stuff so I might as well use it.... :clapping:
  13. Loren, I have all the extraneous stuff that came with the PSE in a box, including wires and vacum lines etc., it is the 3.4 version. I don't have a switch but that can't be that big a deal. I have all the stuff so I might as well try and use it, otherwise it sits in the attic.;)
  14. Has anyone attempted this, I was considering putting the switch in the center console and run the wires through the hole that the shift cables traverse. Loren is there a TSB on this? I just want to perhaps find a way to keep the car quiet when I leave at 0630 for work... :lol:
  15. Nice pics Jeff. Now I wonder how the factory adjusts it when it is installed as an option in Stuttgart?
  16. Thanks again Jeff, I used the tsb to check my adjustment and now it feels perfect. :)
  17. This begs the question as to who the actual supplier is for all these shifters? I once heard on Rennlist that they were made in Germany by Eibach. The pic looks like they left some blue on it ;) . As an aside Jeff, how does Porsche recommend adjusting the ss? FWIW I had mine out to the track last weekend with the B&M and it worked pretty well, no isues at al, I guess I finally got the adjustment right. (Recall I was hitting the gate on occasional hard shifts during hot run sessions at the track). :cheers:
  18. Does the blue shift cable simply snap off like the black one?
  19. So does Porsche now have a special tool to center this shifter? Since the std tool will not fit the B&M, I also wonder how they adjust the shifter. :drive:
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