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oalvarez

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About oalvarez

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    los angeles ca
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe
    2007 Porsche 997 Carrera S Coupe
  • Former cars
    2007 Audi RS4
    1960 Karmann Ghia Convertible

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  1. I am planning do it the same thing. I have a base 997 (non s) with 18 inch wheels. is your car a base 997 non s, and does it have 18 inch wheels with the 20 mm suspension. I noticed on the porsche website in europe when you opt for 20 mm sport suspension it forces you opt out the 18 inch for 19 inches, so I am wondering if you did the same. thanks Ronnie not sure if it helps, but i too have a 997 (non-S) and had the Techart (eibach) springs installed. it lowered the car 3/4"+ all around and i did install 19" Porsche Carrera Classic wheels to help round things out a bit. i am pleased with the setup but it does require a level of attention when approaching steeper driveways and the like. regards
  2. The resonator is specifically designed for the 3.8 liter 997 S engine air intake only. It's purpose is to : 1. reduce cabin background noise in the higher frequency ranges 2. emphasize the sporty, load related air intake noise between 300 and 600 Hz. ( per Porsche "Technik" manual ) Jean, thank you for your reply. Glad i didn't spend any unneccessary money. Regards
  3. question: is there a helmholz resonator valve in the 3.6 liter 997 (non-s) motor/airbox? or does the "sound mod" only pertain to 3.8 liter motors? thanks
  4. for all of those dying with anticipation :lol: . it ended up being the original tips not fitting the new GHL mufflers. they tightened down the assembly, double nutted the tips, all is fine for the time being. no more resonating/rattling to speak of. thanks to the guys at Up On 3 Racing here in Pasadena
  5. before i take it in, anyone have an idea what the rattle could be from? here's the sitch: no rattle from the muffler (GHL) when at idle OR when in neutral and revving it up. the rattle ONLY occurs when pulling away from a stop light or signal, just after having shifted into gear. the sound is a "resonating" one, almost as though something is rattling. this sound does not occur on the left side, only the right side. thanks in advance cc: 6speedonline
  6. ok, took me approx 2 hours, the most trouble i had was with the dreaded plastic bushings on the orig shifter (they were a b.i.t.c.h.). i worked with a small jewelers flat-screwdriver and soft hammer and basically wedged/broke off the bushing clips/tabs. they seriously took most of my time, almost 20 min. the re-assembly is a breeze, i can see how people could do it under 1hr the second go-around (i was overly anal about the project). anyhow, the tape on the cables and also counting the threads made all the difference in the world. the throws are unbelievably short as compared to the original, and i have no problem moving in and out of the gears, including reverse. THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP AND ADVICE!!! GHL on Tues/Wed oalvarez cc: 6speed and rennlist
  7. couple of things before i proceed this morning: -do i have to use loctite or a jam nut on the set screw? -i read that the set-screw should be towards the front of the car. the instructions don't state that. what is the right way? thanks in advance
  8. yes, amazing indeed. i think we are so similar in our mods in that we both have spent a lot of time reading and researching what others BEFORE us did!! (i have seen and read your posts as you have mine). but truthfully, most important is the suspension, exhaust, AND from what i have read, the b&m ssk. i have read the same exact posts you have, and i believe the one leaning on the b&m shift lever causing damage is indeed a myth/false. does it make shifting a bit more notchy? yes, from what i read it does, and that is EXACTLY what it's supposed to do (will become a bit more smooth in time). it is supposed to make your shifts shorter, and that is what it does. i personally look to the posts of Loren/Robyn/Tool Pants and a host of others for the BEST INFORMATION, and none of them have anything truly negative to say about the product (b&m ssk). most even say that the b&m is as good as the porsche oem part, and even with my desire to stay oem, in this case i decided against it, as i did with my exhaust (GHL installing on tue/wed). i'm going to give this B&M thing a whirl, at the worse, i have to buy bushings to fit the original shifter and swap it back in place. Best of luck to you ArthurK Oalvarez
  9. :clapping: ok, finally got it off, have a blood blister to show for it!....40 minutes to get to step 16, just about to pull off the cables, decided to rest there, so to start fresh in the morning......DON'T WORRY! i will mark the cables :D probably better that i get some rest and start fresh in the morning.... so far so good
  10. 1999 c2 coupe....how in the hec do i get that shift lever/knob off? i don't see a set-screw.....how does one pull that thing off? i guess this is what delays the DIY's!! many thanks in advance
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