dj996

Will 997 GT2 sway bars fit a 997TT?

There are always lots of used Fabspeeds for sale, that should tell you something. Having said that, FS isa good exhaust, Tubi is better.

Tubi!!

H&R's are alittle harsh for someone that wants to maintain ride quality, You might want to check on Eibach's I have them on my Boxster and while yes the Boxster is completely different than a 997TT, the Eibach's do lower the car and you still have alot of ride comfort after installing them.

How noticable was the change in ride quality? Any specific habits I should know about?

Thanks

I have the Champion version of the H&R springs on my turbo. The drop is 1" as advertised. The ride is similar to stock in regular mode and a bit stiffer in sport mode. The handling at the track is quite good, no more dive or excessive squatting. The only downside is the scraping on the front end, it was bad enough stock, you just have to adjust your driving style a little on steep driveways etc.

As far as I know there is no RoW option on the 997TT. all cars have the same suspension worldwide.

Carrera III - 18" wheels (for 997 wide bodies)

Fronts: 57 mm

Rears: 51 mm

Thanks Loren! I am trying to plan some track wheels for the TT.

Does anyone know what the offsets are on the C4S Carrera III 18" wheels (8.5,11)? TIA

I take out the key and still get a gong, as if I left the keys in the ignition. Also get the double horn beep when I tried to lock it manually. Appears to be a central locking failure of some sort. Never heard of an ignition switch wearing out at 30K miles. Oh well, one more thing for them to fix at the 30K service:(

Why don't you do that and post your findings.

Here's my take on the Fabspeeds, they are a good quality muffler that has a deeper more aggressive sound than PSE, one of the reasons I got them, overall loudness about the same. They are probably 60% louder than stock exhaust, they do have what I would call mild resonance at cruising speeds, nowhere near other aftermarket exhausts I have heard. I have heard and driven them on a 3.6 cab and found them quite tame compared to a 3.4 coupe.

I was more than happy with the Fabspeeds until I heard the GHL regular versions, this was the perfect sound IMO, a raspy loud bark yet fairly quiet in the lower revs, probably 25-30% louder than stock unless you are on it. The best thing, there is ZERO resonance at any cruising speed.

The sound is also very individual, one mans throatiness is anothers unbearable resonance. For example, my wife hated PSE, found them way too loud in the garage. ALL of the performance exhausts will be louder than stock, that is a fact, be it PSE, Ruf, Fabspeed, GHL etc.... If you are not sure you will like a louder car I would not buy an exhaust, especially an aftermarket exhaust. Also try to hear the exact combination before you buy, which may be hard. What sounds good on a '04 Cab may be quite different on a plain jane '99 C2. :drive:

I recently re-installed the TE roll bar for a series of upcoming track events. Note the roll bar can be completely removed in less than 1 hour.

It's a great package, I have no idea why they couldn't sell them.

Thanks guys, I ordered some grade 8 bolts from nutandbolts.com you can buy small quantities but a $20 minimum order. Oh well now I have lots of bolts. I'm gonna replace the bolts with longer ones to make re-installs much, much easier between track events.

Sorry to hear you had so much trouble. My brother and I did it a couple of weeks ago and it was a handful, and we have a lot of experience working on and building race cars. While we didn't have all the problems you did, I did manage to scratch my door jam during the test fit and we managed to screw up one of the bolt holes despite all our best efforts. Luckily we changed out to better quality grade 8 bolts and the install was easier. Even longer bolts would be better. But I agree with you, this is a difficult diy, I would say 9 on a 10 scale.

Carlos, do you recall the sizes of bolts used? I think it would be helpful for future installers, longer bolts would definitely be easier, ours were only slightly longer. How long did it take you?

Thanks to C4S Surgeon we got the roll bar installed yesterday. What a *****, and that's coming from two guys with a lot of car racing experience behind us. Thanks also to Renntech and all the helpful posts on the topic, especially Wolfgang, it helped a lot. But even knowing all the pitfalls and being extremely careful we managed to screw up one of the mounting bolts. What a pain in the *** that was, thank goodness for tap and die sets. We ended up changing out the supplied bolts to all grade 8 bolts, much better quality with less propensity to cross thread.

The bar looks really nice after the install, plus I still have full access to the rear seats. I would definitely recommend the bar but I would not attempt the install solo unless you have lots of experience IMO.

Yes there is a motorsports oiling upgrade for the 3.4 996 engine. The M96 motor is subject to potential oil starvation during certain high G left sweepers, the problem occurs on the 4-6 side. It was enough of a problem that Porsche made a kit. It was sold by PMNA and voided the warranty. The kit included a new oil pan with aluminum baffles instead of plastic, dual stage scavenge pump for the 4-6 side and a suction pipe which has to be mounted on the cam cover. The cam cover must be machined slightly to accept the oil pipe. As I said the kit was available, PMNA no longer stocks or sells the kit. However......I have checked into this, as the kit is part of the X51 package the parts are available separately. The parts can be special ordered from Germany. The kit is expensive, PMNA wanted $1360, but you can buy the needed parts for about $1K piece-meal. Brey-Krause also sells a sump modification to alleviate the problem, the BK kit is a lot cheaper and legal for PCA racing too.

Here are the part numbers:

Pump: 996.107.980.00

Suction Pipe: 99610798402

Oil Pan: 996.107.310.8R (not available), must use the X51 street part (996 107 243 40 ). :drive:

What are you referring to? Are the bolts prone to stripping out?

The wheels should have the width and offset stamped on them near the valve stem, if they are OEM Porsche wheels.

Hi Doug,

I don't think that the RollBar you are talking about is the same one Loren is refering to.

If I understood this correctly you want to install the Tequipment part which is available with or without the cross-member. If this is the case you can find a rather good description here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=695

The installation procedure should be the same for both bars.

Regards

Wolfgang

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Thanks Wolfgang!

Thanks!

The third radiator is a good upgrade for track use in hot climates, mine helps a lot here in Texas. It is a fairly involved install, not for the faint of heart IMO. Another thing to consider, which I haven't had time to check out yet, the tiptronic water pumps have a higher flow capacity than the manual cars, I wonder if this upgrade would also help in cooling.

Does anyone (Loren) have the actual Porsche instructions for the roll bar install. I have the Tequipment 4 point roll bar without the crossbar as I want to maintain use of the rear seats. I did a search and it seems like I need to use the Porsche instructions to do it right. TIA

Doug

Be careful with the brake fluid, it can eat the paint down to the bare metal.

Go for it. Like Chris said 400 miles is nothing, sounds like it was all dealer miles anyway. Besides it will be a while before the new C4S 997 are out, and they will not be going for $74K.

I just read on another board that PCNA is now advising dealers that plugs should be changed at the 30K service regardless of the build year for all 996s.  This sounds a little fishy to me, as just another way to get more money out of the typical clueless 996 owner.

Can anyone substantiate this rumor?

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Dude, where do you get off calling someone clueless?