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eDoug

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Everything posted by eDoug

  1. Appreciate all the good info - car is still under CPO warranty - so I'm good either way. Thanks again - hopefully they'll just replace it this week before I go to the track. On a side note, dealer says 3-4 days for replacement parts, wtf??? We're 3 hours from the distribution center in Atlanta. Don't like this dealer... Thx again.
  2. This is "exactly" what happened last time when the cat failed, except it was on the driver's side. This time it's clearly on the passenger side. I am not one to often jump to quick diagnosis - but I have enough confidence in myself to bet on this being the other cat. (2002 w/39k miles, go figure) I Have an appt Monday morning at local dealer - we'll see what they do - but they're not the most responsive bunch. I used to drive 60 miles to the next closest dealer 'cause they were so great to work with... but with this economy - they closed down in December - they're no longer in business.... Thx for the thought - if they choose to wait for it to fail and set off the CEL, I'm still interested if anyone has any thoughts about whether there could be any issues with running hard, at a DE with a CEL on from the cat.
  3. Question: Can driving on a "bad cat" cause harm the engine? Or is it just an emissions issue? About 3 months ago, after a DE at VIR, one of my catalytic converters started rattling. On the drive home from the DE, the Check Engine light went on. Fortunately, still under CPO warranty - but they would only replace the rattling one - left the other cat to fail... which it sounds like it's doing now. When the engine's nice and hot, you can hear a rattle - opening the engine lid, you can't really hear it, it's obviously coming fom underneath. Furthermore, knocking the tailpipe with the heel of my hand can change the sound, or stop it for a sec - just like the first cat that went. Anyhow, I'm heading to another DE next weekend - and I'd guess this one's going to go, light up the check engine light, and I'll need to drive home 200 miles with it. However, since the CE light isn't on, I doubt the dealer's going to do a warranty replacement for a simple rattle. Any thoughts, suggestions, and assessment of potential harm from driving hard with a bad cat?
  4. From first-hand experience - the "IMS Death Rattle" is not uncommon. I thought it was a water pump, then maybe a belt tensioner/pulley, then it just let loose and dumped 9 qts of M1 20w-50 on the garage floor. The rattle was probably present from the first time I noticed it, until it worsened over the course of 200-300 miles in a week - then it failed.
  5. I wondered about break-in as I just finished my 2,000 miles on the new (reman) engine. I kept it under 4.2k for most of the break-in, generally keeping less than 50% throttle most of the time. I ran it up to the 5k range in the last few hundred miles, and have just started shifting occasionally above 6k... I don't plan to bump the limiter or approach it - I think >6.5k rpms probably provides diminishing power/performance/wear returns. From the mechanics I've spoken to about the IMS failure, general concensus is that "it just happens." As an engineer, I'd like to disagree with that notion and think everything happens for a reason. But there are far too many complexities involved and not enough hard evidence to support all the conjecture... except maybe the evidence in Porsche's hands. My approach with the new powerplant will be to keep using Mobile "water" or perhaps use a good 5w-40 product. Never run it above 3k when cold (H2O temp >180), or over 4k until the engine is good and hot (>15 minutes driving). What else can you do??? Everyone has their own ideas - but as for me - I figure you just have to drive 'em like they were meant to be driven: run it often, and run it hard but not abusively. It doesn't hurt to keep a piggy bank nearby to save up for the worst. :o
  6. My IMS failed with M1 20w-50. "Weakest" oil? My opinion is that the 0w-40 is probably better for the tight tolerances of these engines. But this is pure conjecture, isn't it? I'm no expert... so I won't pretend to be either.
  7. Okay - I've read through as many posts as I can on oil, and seen enough oil fights! No sense in trying to argue an issue that has too many experts and individual viewpoints. I'll continue using Mobile Water (since the only tangible data point I have is a failed engine within 3k miles after the oil was switched to M1 15W-50). But I still maintain the following items: lower weight = better cold start protection (related to "w" 1st rating on multi-viscosity oil) higher weight = better race (high-heat, high-rpm) protection (related to 2nd rating in multi-viscosity oil) less of an absolute difference in min/max for multi-viscosity = less additives and less viscosity "breakdown" over time oil change intervals = anything less than 5-7k miles is a waste (after break-in) oil analysis = why not if you have the time, patience, and interest (but you need to collect multiple data points for it to be valid) The rest is up to us as individuals to decide - as far as I'm concerned, there's some level of rolling the dice. I don't think anyone, including Porsche, has a definitive answer on what's "best."
  8. Okay - one thing to get straight - the winter spec (0w-40) refers to viscosity when cold (there's more to it, I know). The 0 weight is thinner than a 5 or 15 weight when starting the engine at, let's say, room temperature (although the spec is at 0 degrees celsius). This means that it also circulates more quickly and covers the valve train, etc. regardless of the temperature. Hence, a thinner oil can reduce cold-start wear moreso than with a thicker oil which takes more time to penetrate and circulate to and through the tight engine tolerances. I used to think you'd be crazy to run "thinner oil" but after reading lot's of threads, books, and conducting what I'd call "independent research" - I'm sold on using the factory fill in these engines. 5W-40 doesn't give any better warm-weather or high-temp protection than 0w-40, and it offers less cold-start protection. So 'splain it to me Lucy - why use thicker oil unless you're spending a day at the track, running hard from dawn until dusk and not letting the engine cool down appreciably??? Not inviting flames - but interested in any intelligent reasoning.
  9. Okay, I'll bite on this one, but I'm not a resident expert or anything. First off, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new 996! I got mine in June and I still find myself going out on errands for no good reason - wandering into the garage for the hell of it - sometimes listening to music in the driver's seat while parked in the dark... sometimes awestruck by how cool the cockpit is at night. I'm not 20 either, but yep, I get it. "Optimal" is all relative without a qualifying context - and your context was "casual driving." So, first looking at "casual driving" I would assume that you want comfort for yourself and your passenger, as well as power on tap - a good balance between minimizing engine wear and maximizing performance. Personally, I find it very comfortable driving in the 3k range. I tend to run it in the 2.6k - 3.4k range in general. With cruise control set, I'd have it in 6th gear, as long as it's above 2k rpms or so - running at a steady speed on relatively flat terrain. I don't think you're risking lugging the engine on this car above 2k. Shift points for me tend to be in the 3.5k - 6k range, depending upon how much fun I want to have. Needless to say, you can run it up to 4-5k rpms all day long and shouldn't do anything negative to the engine, besides lower your mpg a bit. Most important is to never run the engine hard in the first 10 miuntes or so after cold-start - make sure the oil is good and warm before using even more than 1/2 throttle. Regarding redline - I'm not a redline junkie, but I figured redline is okay if the engine is designed for the rpms. However, I've decided that I don't plan to run to redline as often as I did when I first got the car... Okay, so (perhaps off-topic) "optimal" as relates to maximum acceleration - I'm thinking redline doesn't necessarily maximize speed in this car. The power curve seems to pick up so strongly above 4.2k rpms - that shifting as early as 6k rpms probably still provides nearly maximum power and acceleration, with plenty of room for error, without going all the way to redline. I know that the fuel cutoff will protect the engine - but it also logs a redline "event" into the OBC every time you do it - and I'd prefer to keep that to a minimum on the (warranty) engine. This is more of a personal decision, frankly - and I don't think it's vitally important to engine health except "use your head" and don't try to drive the engine into the ground. I hope you find your optimal and share back with the group sometime in the future. Regards.
  10. At the risk of starting another "oil wars" thread :oops: The December 2007 Porsche approved oils list doesn't have anything more viscous than 5W-50 as far as I can tell. Given that cold starts are a major wear issue on any engine - the "Mobile Water" seems like a good cold start oil, and the rating to a 40 weight when hot should provide ample protection - given it's the factory fill also. I've tended to run heavier oils when given the option in the past - because I also tend to drive hard. However, after reading and understanding the issues with engine tolerances, and multiple service duties (like oil acting as a hydraulic fluid for variocam), etc., I'll stick with the Porsche approved oil list. You can find it under the 996 TSBs if you're a member, and search for "Oil." Oh, and I received a remanufactured engine, courtesy of the Porsche CPO warranty, after my intermediate shaft (bearing) failed.
  11. Following up on my last thread, figured I'd give an update and ask a few questions.... Here's the last link if interested in background: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=21612 So, new owner (5 weeks and 2k miles) of a 2002 996 C2. Love the car, nice price, 30k miles, great options, nice shape (paint was a little swirled, but black is tough - need to really detail it - another topic). P-dealer CPO'd the car. I had a PPI done by a local indie, great results, little moisture from the RMS, but no drips/leaks. Everything else, great. After running it in a reasonably "spirited" way for a few thousand miles I noticed a slight tap, clunk, rattle - sounded like a water pump bearing going. So, in the space of 3 days and about 100 miles: - Inspected underneath - no visible signs of anything the first day. - Second day, noticed a little leak on the garage floor, figured it was the dreaded RMS. - 3rd day, ran it by the local indie and he suggested maybe the belt pulleys were going. Made me feel better and it made sense - as that was the kind of mechanical sound that fit the bill. About 1/2 mile from home - I hear a very loud clattering - big sound - thought it was the truck behind me. Realized it was me.... ughh. Shut the ignition off, coasted about a mile to my neighborhood entrance (live in the mountains). Started it back up to go up the hill and it sounded fine. No CEL, oil pressure okay, nothing else wrong, no loss of power nursing it up the hill that I could notice. Pulled into my garage and opened the trunk - figured I'd see a mess of a belt or something - it was perfect. Then I heard the oil leaking onto the garage floor. It drained about 2 gallons on the floor in the span of about 20 minutes. Cleanup was very enjoyable... <_< So anyway - called the CPO roadside number and they flatbedded it to my local dealer. It took a few days for them to get it into the shop and diagnose - of course I was on pins and needles. Then I talked to the mechanic - who is awesome - and he said he filled it with oil and it was idling in the shop without missing a beat. Geez, was I getting more antsy - after reading all I can from the boards, I thought it had to be something pretty major. Called the next evening and he was in the process of pulling the engine and told me it "bled out" after he turned the ignition off the night before and he found metal in the filter and oil. I was actually starting to feel a little better - at least I'm not crazy. Today - got a call near the end of the day and he had separated the engine and sure enough it was a failed Intermediate Shaft Bearing. He waited for authorization and Porsche is replacing the engine under CPO warranty. Should be ready to go next week and I couldn't be much happier given the circumstances. :P So - guess there's a few things to solicit comments on from the board... 1) I'm having a new clutch kit installed (parts are $655?) 2) Figured I'd replace the coolant tank on my nickel 3) Flush the brake system 4) Make sure new engine mounts are included, or change em at my expense. Am I missing anything that would be prudent? Again, 32k miles, 2002 C2. Lastly, I'm a bit disappointed that a car I've coveted for the better part of my life (born in '65) had an engine quit after 32k miles. I couldn't be more relieved about the warranty - and I think it teaches me the lesson that insurance is always a good thing. This is truly one of the most fun cars I've driven, and couldn't be more pleased with the driving experience, on many levels. However - as many have speculated before, what the heck? Yeah, I know the answer to this - it is what it is..... live with it, buy a TT or GT3, or don't bother "playing." Anyhow - on to better thoughts... I'm going to a DE event in 2 months, nursing it through break-in should be hellish - but I'll get the miles in. Here's my plan for break-in... 1) Oil - Change at 600 and 1,500 miles, then every 5k with mobile 1 0w-40. 2) Keep it under 4.2k rpms for at least the first 1k miles... then maybe up to 5k for the 2nd 1k. Easy on the throttle, and always have the oil thoroughly warm before going even 1/2 throttle. No cruise control, no lugging, use as much engine braking while still being gentle on it. Okay - comments on the following? I know reliability and break-in opinions have been covered thoroughly, but if you want to chime in, I'm listening, again. Reliability, "Extra" repairs while I'm at it, and break-in???? Looking forward to hearing from folks - and yes, I do feel fortunate to be driving such an awesome car (with a warranty). Cheers. eDoug :renntech:
  12. I checked the receipt and the dealer had put in 15x50 Mobil 1 at last oil change. Was planning to change it after the Summer, but alas, I didn't need to do that. Just needed to mop up a few gallons from the garage floor and then the street once the flatbed wrecker showed up and we pushed it to the street. I will definitely not run that viscosity in the future, as it's not THAT hot here. Sent a PM regarding price (roughly, in the $41k range). Thanks for the good wishes - I'll keep my fingers crossed for a new engine, and will post back once I hear from the dealer.
  13. Thanks Kevin - perhaps you're right, but I was under the car a few days back from the same vantage I took the picture, and it looked "dry." I think you're just noticing the fresh oil mixing with the existing road scum. In any case, you're right about the warranty - and I'm keeping my hopes up that they'll do all the right things to get me back in action. And just so folks know, this isn't a thread for me to ***** and moan about quality, etc. I understand the mechanical risk, particularly in buying a lower mileage car. I've also had plenty of things go wrong in the past with autos... This remains as one of the most fun cars in memory, and since I won't be robbing the college funds to buy a new engine (hopefully), I have little to complain about! If this happened out of warranty - I can't say it wouldn't put me off - but we'll have to wait to see the mechanic's diagnosis tomorrow... I look forward to spending some time on the forum, and hopefully offering some helpful perspectives in the future. Thanks again for the insights. Cheers - will post outcomes once I know more.
  14. So strange, because the car never lost power, and it was never running without oil... but it was pretty loud at idle for about a minute. If a broken intermediate shaft means they'll likely replace the engine (under CPO), then I should be pleased, right??? Thanks - appreciate the insights.
  15. If "some time" means LESS than a week, I guess you're right. :rolleyes: The car underwent a full CPO inspection just last week. I know that CPO doesn't guarantee finding everything, but they won't certify a car with a leaking gasket like that and I was underneath it a few days ago. I'd guess that I saw a few drops on Monday, followed by a bit more oil on the garage floor Tuesday. Yesterday, I drove for about 10-20 miles and absolutely dry garage.... until I arrived home today. Oil is about 3k miles old. Does anyone know if this is indicative of an RMS, or intermediate shaft seal? Also, if it's intermediate shaft, does that mean the engine is hosed, or is that repairable, too? Thanks.
  16. Uh-oh! Guess it was a good thing I've been monitoring this noise - my local mechanic supposed it could be the pulleys/rollers making the odd clunk or tapping noise (he only gave me a quick opinion). I drove another 25 miles or so, then it got loud, very loud, about 1/2 mile from home. I coasted to the neighborhood - still thinking it was a pulley that gave out - and noting the temp was normal and oil pressure was normal - I went about 1/10th of a mile to my garage under power - the noise had subsided. I got out of the car, and about 15 seconds passed before I heard the terrifying sound of oil freely draining onto the garage floor. Cleanup wasn't fun, a few gallons of oil - more importantly what happened??? I've gotta say, I've been driving the car somewhat hard for the past 2k miles over the last month (not bouncing the rev limiter or anything), and it was probably a bit of a garage queen with only 30k on the clock after 6 years - but still! All I can guess is that the RMS gave up, in a catastrophic way! Perhaps the intermediate shaft seals? I dunno - feel free to speculate. Here are some pictures of the aftermath. It IS a CPO car, so I'm not crying in my beer, I can always hope for a new powerplant... but as a matter of interest and perhaps debate... Yes, I still love this car - just feeling fortunate that I have the warranty.
  17. Loren - great suggestion - it's hard to describe the noise, it is very erratic, sometimes it seems more frequent, but it's always non-uniform - can only hear it at idle with the windows down. Any faster RPMs and it seems to either be masked by engine/exhaust, or it goes away. My guess would be water pump impeller as you suggest or maybe something in the oil sump??? Car runs great, pulls hard, nothing else noticeable. Any thoughts on urgency if it's indeed the water pump? Yeah, I know - hell it's under warranty - so I should just take it in immediately, but there's a long story there... it's not around the corner.
  18. Hi there - I just purchased an '02 996 C2 with 30k miles about a month ago. Since then, I've put about 2k miles on it, driven it hard, and noticed two things today. 1) I'm hearing some sort of rattle, maybe bearing noise, somewhere lower in the engine. Could be alternator, water pump, but it sounds further forward than that - maybe something near the bell housing? 2) For the first time, in the month, I just found a bit of oil on the garage floor - so looks like RMS failure. It appears as though there's a bit of oil on the underside of the engine, just behind the rear sway bar - looks like a drip from the end of an exposed bolt right in the center? Is this indicative of the RMS leak? So I had the car thoroughly inspected with a PPI, and the RMS was checked. Perhaps the prior owner was just too gentle on the car! The good news is that it's Porsche CPO'd and I'm looking forward to having that peace of mind... the bad news is it can't help but make you paranoid when anything fails on a high-end car. Also, it's the simple pain in the *** of having to deal with it... In a nutshell, I couldn't be happier with the car - it drives wonderfully, the options are great, the engine sounds amazing, especially hitting 6k or so at WOT, then dropping it into 4th gear - just awesome. The handling is unparalleled - I've been driving Bimmers for the past decade or so and I've always been a proponent of "balance" and neutral handling - but this car breaks all the rules, in such a great way. The traction is amazing... So - I'm not unhappy with my choice, the cost of having a used car is this kind of frustration, and the savings, well, of course I paid half of the sticker price with 30k miles. I'm not sure what I'm looking for here - besides a few word of encouragement, and perhaps any suggestions on the rattling noise. Seems as though this started about the same time I saw some oil on the garage floor, the past 2 days. If nothing constructive - then no worries, and I look forward to being a contributor on the board in the future. Cheers, eDoug :renntech:
  19. I had an '01 Dinan modified 740i Sport with what they called the "IR" windscreen. The radar detector DIDN'T work behind the glass and there were cutouts at the center in the bottom and on either side of the rearview mirror where you could mount a detector or a toll transponder (presumably put there for that purpose). Not sure about the Cayenne's option - but if there's any metallic material embedded in the glass - you will get degraded performance. On a related note, that windshield was awesome - really seemed to reduce road glare and keep the dash MUCH cooler in the Miami sun. B)
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