JP Rodkey

Suggest taking a spray bottle and mixing water with baking soda......spray all the metal parts in the area, on the hood - everywhere. The gases from the battery will cause corrosion over time. The mixture won't hurt anything and you can then wash down with a hose sprayer. You won't regret it.

Just looked at mine, which is off the car awaiting replacement of the bracket. They used a threaded stud, which appears to be threaded into a female insert in the aluminum cross brace. It doesn't look like it's a flat headed bolt that's inserted into the brace, but can't tell for sure. I think you have a couple of options: 1. The stud is long enough, I think, that you can get two nuts on it in order to hold the bolt from twisting while using an open end wrench on the 10mm nut. Alternatively, counter holding the bolt with pliars - protect the threads! - may get you there. 2. A bit of work, but remove the entire brace and replace the stud with a bolt. Hope that helps.

For anyone faced with a failed engine, there are options depending on the failure. I'm a newbie to Boxsters, but rebuilt several Porsche water cooled engines. I don't think there are clear choices, but choices none the less. My preference would be to rebuild myself, but component parts are expensive for these motors and after machining, new pistons, rings, etal would be ridiculously costly IMO. In my case, the failure was due to overheat resulting in major leakdown in all cylinders. The options seem to be finding a used engine, factory rebuild (if still available?), or the impressive LN Engineering 'Nickies'. If my failure didn't demand a new block, I would probably opt to rebuild. In this case, I've located a very low mileage 2.5 long block for a very reasonable price. Yes, I toyed with "upgrading" to a 2.7 or larger, but the economics presented make the 2.5 my choice. And because of that choice, I now have to decide if I'm going to do a preventative RMS, so there is some risk, but then all replacements carry some degree of risk

Update: Likely root cause of problems was a water pump impeller that had separated from the shaft, likely caused by the worn bearing which caused the shaft to offset enough that the impeller began hitting the wall of the block port. Leakdown shows roughly 90% leakage in two of the cyclinders tested - enough to warrant pulling the engine. Durametric shows four codes, the important one being P0102 which is DTC 115 - hot film MAF sensor. Unless someone has a different opinion, the engine will be out within hours.

I spent a bunch of time on his site last night. Looked through most of the photo posts as well. Good stuff. Right now, I'm leaning toward taking the engine out this weekend and starting the teardown to see what's up.

Last weekend I posted issues with my just acquired '98 that had "lost a coolant hose and overheated - shop advised replacing the engine." Although I finally got it to crank, it wouldn't start - until today. A cold compression test showed between 90 and 110 psi on each cylinder (closed throttle because I was doing a quick check for compression). Installed new plugs and after a lot of cranking, the engine began to trot and finally started after about 18 months of sitting idle (68k miles on engine, no coolant installed). Lower end sounded very good with no knocks or unusual sound. But there is a definitely not-normal sound coming from the front of the engine and occasional popping into the intake manifold. Engine revs following throttle opening. There is no smoke or unusual odor coming from the exhaust. It will idle properly, except for the noise. If I shut it down and restart, it takes about 30 seconds of cranking until it trots, then will go ahead and run on it's own. I will likely do a leakdown test, but it sure sounds like a timing issue on at least one bank (1-3). In view of the overheat history, I'm guessing that it may have affected the chain? It appears the RMS is performing like most - leaking. Here are my questions: 1. It isn't going to fix itself and whatever is making the noise is going to require removing the engine. 2. I am capable of doing all the work necessary to disassemble and reassemble the engine, but would have to farm out any machine work (yes, I understand Nikosil/Alusil and the limitations of working the block). 3. It doesn't act as if any valves are bent, just the timing affected. Anyone have success in such a situation by removing heads and/or replacing the timing components? 4. Already working on sourcing a replacement used engine, which seems the most economical, reliable, and practical solution at this point. 5. Should get Durametric software tomorrow and can then see what codes may be lurking. Lots of folks have provided some excellent how-to's and photos, and I am willing to document the rest of the diagnosis and final solution if folks are interested. Comments and opinions welcome..................

Ode to Joy! Amazing. After most of yesterday working through the electrics many times over, I decided to sleep on it and ponder investing in the Durametric or simply hauling off to the dealer (after a rush online order for some K-Y). Spent a half hour reading threads in here and rethinking the whole process. I have a couple of later 928s and therefore somewhat familiar with Porsche's DME approach. So...........what the heck.......disconnected the neg battery terminal for 30 seconds and refit. Turn of ignition worked! Now the real work starts because the engine is supposed to be "bad" and I can now focus on that. Thanks to all who looked at the thread and especially those who posted. Hopefully, this might help someone else.

Thanks, pk2. This afternoon, I did remove the alarm computer. It looked absolutely new inside and out. However, it was obvious the driver seat had been removed in the past, and the alarm box was not locked into the tabs on the floorpan. No way to know the full story. I would go ahead and buy the Durametric, but unless I misunderstand, it's useless to reset alarm codes which means if the alarm computer is responsible for immobilization, there isn't anything I can do? I'm comfortable with a VM and fairly comfortable with the diagrams, but we can only go so far inside the DME and alarm. Keep up the suggestions!

Good stuff. I did run a jumper directly from battery ground to engine, but that didn't change things. There are no signs of water damage or accumulation of any kind - carpet, seat, wiring, ground connection in floor pan all look as new - but it's still possible and will check. As mentioned in the OP, the engine does spin. The first thing I did was rule out a faulty starter I know enough about the alarm system to know the keys are programmed to the box and it's supposed to be programmed in the car. However, the box is THE brain, so I'm wondering if just the alarm box and the DME can go to the dealer without the car?

Yes, tried several different combinations of lock/unlock (with key and with remote) to no avail. When alarm is set, LED flashes twice with long pause between next set of flashes. Disarm causes five or six rapid flashes of LED. WSM is a bit hard to decipher, at least for me. I'm located in the Milwaukee area.

BACKGROUND Just got a '98 tipper (my first 986). Natch, no records, but the story is that a coolant line had come off and the dealer recommended engine replacement. That's why the original owner decided to sell - long story, but can't get records from original owner. Car sat totally dead for about a year. My first priority is to validate that the engine is "bad" and check compression, leak down, etc. However, it won't crank. Everything lights up - it just won't crank the starter (yes, I have voltage at term 30 on the starter and a good ground), along with a new battery. PROGRESS 1. Verified all fuses are good and seated properly. 2. Checked ignition switch (proper function and continuity in all positions verified on switch and at load locations) 3. Checked P/N shifter start interlock - sends correct signal to the DME. 4. Jumped starter and it spins properly and engine turns well with no odd grinding or noise :) . 5. Checked all related relays (start lock, fuel pump, MFI-DI). DME 1. Have proper ground at pin 6 and 12V at pin 26 with ign 'off' which is correct. 2. Measured source voltage at engine sensors from pin 54 in DME which is correct (DME plugged to connector). ALARM 1. Both keys function correctly (except for start) and will remotely lock/unlock. 2. If alarm has been set, then unlock command sent, after about a minute, everything locks again automatically. Second unlock command works and does not repeat the automatic lock event. 3. Central lock switch functions and actuates locks, but LED indicator on switch (?) does not come on. 4. Checked and changed alarm unit fuse. 5. Measured 7.5V at pin 88 on the DME no matter if ign is on or off and can't verify if that is good or bad. RED HERRINGS? 1. OBD II reader will show connection to car, but displays "erpr" which is not in the error code directory, nor found anywhere I've looked, but believe it means "error - no power". 2. Just for fun, tried the OBD II fault code erase function, but it returned an odd undecipherable error message. 3. Entering radio security code (as written in original owner's manual) does not unlock the radio. CURRENT DIAGNOSIS Either the alarm has immobilized the car or the DME is faulty. I'm leaning toward immobilizing. Based on the great info in here, I'm guessing I'm going to have to have the car flatbedded to the dealer to get a diagnosis of the computers, then get the alarm reset then re-flatbed back home assuming the engine is toast but eliminating the electrics as a problem. I did consider Durametric, but if the problem is the alarm, that won't get me where I need to be and I figure to put that cost into the flatbedding/diagnosis. Any thoughts, recommendations, suggestions would be greatly appreciated!