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geoff last won the day on June 3 2019

geoff had the most liked content!

About geoff

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster
    2005 Carrera
    2008 Cayenne S
    1988 Toyota Pick-Up

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  1. To answer my own post - a while after posting, I found a local transmission shop that had the smarts to figure out the problem. The guts of my transfer case was made by Borg Warner according to the transmission shop. I found replacement seals and belt at NP 235 Transfer Case Kits | Cobra Transmission COBRATRANSMISSION.COM Are you looking for the best NP 235 Transfer Case Kits for sale? Shop all NP 235 Transfer Case parts today at Cobra Transmission. The noise I was hearing was due to the belt stretching out over the years, and hitting the inside of the transfer case housing under load. Here are a couple of pictures of the inside. In the almost 2 years since I had the transfer case rebuilt it's been problem free
  2. 2008 Cayenne S, making noise diagnosed by mechanic as needing a new transfer case based on the noise made under hard acceleration. New transfer case ordered from Porsche late 2018. When I stopped by the dealer to check on status of the order yesterday, I was told it's on indefinite backorder. Are there any alternatives? Does a VW Touareg or Audi Q7 transfer case work exactly the same, and are they equivalent and available? So frustrating
  3. My date stopped displaying late last year also (2008 Cayenne S). Same thing happened to my wife's 2005 Carrera (older PCM version). Both with satnav, which is where time and date come from. Now my Cayenne also displays the wrong time at start up, but then corrects (presumably once the GPS updates the clock) I have a Mobridge unit on the Cayenne for Bluetooth, but not on the Carrera, and both stopped displaying the date. Is this a Porsche conspiracy to get everyone to upgrade to newer vehicles?
  4. After researching many options here with search, I found the following: TSB 3/99 2015 "Fuel tank hose modification" may have some suggestions. Since the TSBs don't seem to be available any more, has anybody read this and can tell me the gist of what it says? One of my old posts in 2004 from my 30K service talks about having the same problem, which was solved under warranty when the dealer replaced a valve. Now I need to track down my really old service receipts. I had totally forgotten about this (I still can't remember it), but Search is a wonderful tool More to come. I want to figure this out as much as possible, since I don't usually get charged by the dealer for all the labor involved and don't want to take advantage of my mechanic buddy
  5. First thing the mechanic did was find a quiet place and check for the click when pushing his finger in the fuel filler opening My Boxster is easy to fill about half way with fuel. Then it's a fight with the pump to get it to about 4/5 full. Then I give up
  6. Sunset's parts department response was basically "don't know, and we can't tell from the VIN". Three different charcoal canisters, prices are $165 (08 suffix), $256 (07 suffix) and $692 (03 suffix), not interchangeable, and all are for OBD2 and ORVR. They sell a lot more bleeder valves (996 201 143 01) ($103) and tank valves (996 695 203 01) ($58) than charcoal canisters. So now the problem space has expanded. My mechanic said when they've had this problem before with the car not taking a full tank, replacing the charcoal canister has solved the problem. The BS factor is low, since he's the head mechanic at the Porsche dealer and also a good friend, who doesn't try to sell me anything Maybe I'll just keep driving around with no more than half a tank for the future. It certainly makes fill ups cheaper, even if more often, like having a 7 gallon fuel tank in my Boxster
  7. Pelican listed the part as OEM, plus they are in Los Angeles, CA. Sunset is in Oregon. My mechanic at my local Porsche dealer got the $800 part quote from the dealer parts counter guy, and they have my VIN. But for giggles and grins instead of arguing, I'll call Sunset, since I would buy from them anyway, and see what they can figure out for a California car, then post back here But this doesn't help me figure out what the difference is between the charcoal canisters
  8. Not hearing anything back from anyone on this yet, I decided to call Pelican Parts, for the simple reason they are in the same county, and I figured they would be able to figure out which charcoal canister i need. Apparently there are 3 different canisters, but it's not quite so simple. The 09 suffix was replaced by the 08 suffix, which was then replaced by the 03 suffix. The 06 suffix was replaced by the 07 suffix. When I gave the Pelican Parts person my VIN, she looked it up, and both the 03 and 07 versions popped up in her computer, but she was at a loss as to which one I need Her parts catalog shows the 1997 to 2000 models use the 03 suffix, and 2000 and later use the 07 suffix. Mine is a 2001 2.7 model, in California if that makes a difference. Both ORVR and OBD2 showed up for my VIN Anyone? Help please!
  9. My 2001 Boxster has had trouble getting anywhere close to a full tank at every fill up for a few years, so when I had it serviced yesterday I asked the mechanic to look into what is going on. Symptoms are the fuel fill shuts off frequently, and it's impossible to get a full fill up at the gas station (I've tried numerous gas stations). The mechanic pulled the right front fender liner by the filler out, checked all the fittings, relays, etc, and said the likely cause is the charcoal canister inside the wheel well. Some go bad, others don't, but once they get filled up with fuel, gunk and other stuff they cause the gas fill nozzles to keep shutting off. Being the good friend he is, he checked with the parts department, they said the part is about a grand, but he got them down to $800. Then he said "no" and walked away. He said that's insane, the part used to be affordable, and either live with it or look at a dismantler. I am not getting any check engine light Last night I checked the parts diagram, found the attached parts diagram on the Porsche web site. I found 996 201 221 0x on several parts web sites. The 03 suffix was $692 at Sunset, the 07 suffix was $256, and there was a 08 suffix listed for $165. Other sites indicated the 03 version is no longer available and replaced by either the 07, 08 or 09 suffix. Different sites were offering different suffixes for the canister. What is the difference between all the suffixes, and which one should I use (in California)? [M660 is "OBD2" and M664 is "ORVR" (onboard refueling vapor recovery)] The 08 suffix appears to replace the 02, 05 and 09 suffix parts. The 03 suffix seems to be the expensive flavor, and priced around $800 on a number of sites. Sunset lists the 03 part as "without ORVR" Is there something I can inspect? Or pull out and clean to see if that solves the problem? Dump crud or blow air through the charcoal canister to clear out anything that might prevent my car from filling with gas? Is this a real Porsche part, or something sourced from VW or elsewhere that would be a lot less expensive to buy for another brand? I'm leery of buying used parts, especially for something that could cause emission problems I found a related topic but it doesn't talk about what the differences are in the charcoal canisters, and he was getting a CEL
  10. About a month or so ago we drove from the coast up to Sequoia National Park, going from cool at sea level, across the central valley (and fueling up) with outside temperature about 103 at decent highway speeds, then up into the mountains (up to 7,000 ft) often stuck behind slow moving cars. Once inside the park, and climbing from about 2,500 ft to around 6,000 ft, my '08 Cayenne S started stumbling (driving about 25 MPH), more pronounced in the turns, with RPMs dropping from about 1800-2500 down to about 800, then the engine kicking in. Gas tank was about 3/4 full. The higher the altitude the worse the problem became. Finally at about 5,000, the engine stumbled bad, we pulled over, everything looked OK, and we proceeded. At about 6,000 the engine died, we restarted and pulled over, hitching a ride to the campground we planned to stay at. No dash warning lights, no high temperature readings The next morning, we went to the closest lodge with a phone (and internet), and I found a few references to vapor lock in Cayennes online. I called my mechanic at the dealership, he said it was maybe low fuel level (we had 3/4 tank). There are 2 fuel pumps, but only one runs normally except when starting. The fuel tank is like a saddle where one pump has to pump fuel over the drive shaft to the other side of the tank. We went back to where we left the Cayenne overnight, it started fine and ran fine ever since. I took it in for the 108K mile service yesterday, and fuel pumps checked out OK, and nothing out of the ordinary showed up in all the diagnostics Any ideas whether this was vapor lock? Something else to check? I always thought injected engines don't suffer from vapor lock, but everything is pointing to that as the cause
  11. i saw one of our posts say that you had the Carrera rims on your Boxster. Did you have to use spacers? how was the set up. Thanks, Don

  12. All the M96/M97 engines with the IMS design are susceptible to IMS failure (as well as plenty of other parts failing prematurely), including the latest and greatest ones. I am operating on the assumption it is very unlikely (but still possible) my new motor in the Carrera will fail. For my Boxster with the LN bearing, even though their IMS bearing is much beefier and better designed than the OEM, there's also a chance it will fail at some point in the future, too. It hasn't been out long enough on enough cars to have a statistically significant feel for the failure rates, but I am assuming (perhaps foolishly because the only truth I know is what I read on the Internet) that my Boxster engine with the LN bearing is less likely to fail than if I hadn't replaced the IMS bearing I'm sure once the new engines design without IMS bearings have been out for a while, some of them will fail as well - it just won't be the IMS that fails, because the engine doesn't have one
  13. The engine was toast. Two years almost to the day out of warranty (6 years after we first bought the car). Porsche picked up a new remanufactured engine and labor. I paid for the diagnosis. New engine in the Carrera included everything attached to the engine as well, like water pump, fuel injection, AOS, etc. It runs better than new and has all the latest engine upgrades, such as bigger IMS bearing bolt. Very unlikely this engine will fail
  14. I've been told the active sway bars can make a banging noise when they kick in. Does the sound occur when you're going around turns?
  15. I just went through a similar experience. Last month my wife's 2005 Carrera with 65K miles decided enough was enough and the IMS sheared apart. I took this as a wake up call for my 2001 Boxster and decided to have the IMS bearing replaced with one of the LN Engineering improved retrofit bearings. Since the car is 10 years old and everything was apart, I did the following as well: replace water pump (which turned out to be a good thing, as it wasn't spinning smoothly and was starting to leak, which the mechanic didn't notice until he pulled it out), installed LN Engineering lower temperature thermostat (which Charles Navarro strongly recommended along with the IMS bearing), replace the oil filler tube (since these are known to get brittle and crack with age), replace the coolant expansion tank (since I knew it already had a slight leak and it had already been replaced under warranty a long time ago), and replace the RMS seal with the latest version. My RMS seal wasn't leaking, but the labor to replace it was insignificant. I would have replaced the clutch (it had over 35K miles on it), but the mechanic said it looked almost new and still had the original printing on it. The dealer couldn't get their act together to order the LN Engineering parts (IMS bearing, extraction tools, low temperature thermostat), so I just ordered direct and had overnighted to the dealer. None of the mechanics at the dealer had ever done the IMS bearing replacement before, but it was straightforward according to them and they didn't encounter any problems. I spent a lot of time there looking at what they were doing, but missed the whole extraction process. Parts from LN Engineering, including overnight shipping, was a little over $1K, and the bill from the dealer with discounts was about $2.5K. Parts from the dealer came to a little over a grand, and most of the labor involved removing and replacing the transmission. Not exactly cheap, but a lot less expensive than a replacement motor, and I'm no longer wondering if/when my engine will self destruct at a most inopportune time. I just got my car back last week and it runs great (if anything, the engine seems a little bit smoother)
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