spiffyjiff

thanks found some good stuff.  have no idea how i missed it the first time.  altho, is there only one microswitch per door?  if so, then why only the outside handle acting up?  i would think something wrong with the handle as opposed to the switch.  (i.e. maybe a short in the sensor between handle and switch, etc)

Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere and I could not find it.

I'll try to describe best i can.  my driver side "auto window lowering" feature (where it lowers 1/4 inch or so when the door is open) is behaving badly but only when opening the door from the outside handle; opening from inside works fine every time. here's what i know and all observations are made while opening from the outside handle:

1) no fault codes whatsoever;  6mo old battery and still tests fine;  i tried the manual-described "reset procedure" twice to no avail.
2) if i pull up handle slightly as if planning to open the door but not actually engaging the latch, the window cracks open in anticipation, as per usual/how the feature is supposed to work.
3) if i pull up handle just enough for door to open, the window cracks open and stays cracked until i shut the door, whereby the window will go back up to full closed per usual.
4) if i pull up on the handle full and open the door "normally" (see 4a below), that's where the issue is: the window cracks open but immediately goes back up despite door still being open.  the only variance to this is:
4a) if i pull up full on the handle but slowly open the door a few inches before opening the rest of the way normally, the window will stay cracked until door is shut, as it should
5) if window goes back up despite door being open as in #4 above, i can touch/toggle the actual door latch mechanism slightly which will prompt the window to crack open per usual and where it will stay until i shut the door.
6) the driver door latch mechanism in the open-door position looks slightly different than the passenger side. the drivers side lower portion of the latch (the little tooth/nub part that points upward) is more upward and visible than it is on the pass side which has that lower nub flush with the door. regardless of this, when i touch the latch slightly as in #5 above, the latch still doesn't have to look the same as passenger side despite the window now working as it should.

i feel that it's some kind of mechanical issue (i.e. which prevents a correct signal and/or preemptively sends an incorrect signal) rather than an electrical one because:  no fault codes, only one door is affected (the one mostly used and abused), and i can repeat the symptoms at will - i can do steps 4, 4a, or 5 above with exactly the same results.  every time.

maybe a cable that connects the outside handle to the microswitch?  or, how does the ECU know the door is open?  is it the latch?  

ideas? 

i have no idea but now i wished i had asked more ?'s at the body shop last year when most of my front end was apart.with the exception of some harnesses, i figured it was just "plug and play".

Just to follow up on my original post. I had the throttle issue reappear, found out the speed sensor located on the front left wheel was bad. Replaced the sensor and the throttle  issue has not returned.

my issue was "going into 30% throttle mode" so i flipped a coin and replaced my TB first.  wrong.  problem disappeared after i changed the pedal too.  there are potentiometers in both and it was the one in my pedal that was (evidently) bad.

 

Can a standard non air bag passenger seat replace original seat that had air bags on it? Wanted to know if the wiring would be the same .

 

Not without some recoding; the car will see an airbag system fault because the air bag is no longer there.

 

Yep.  if only the ctr console light is tripped, a durametric can prob cure it but i havent had much luck clearing dash airbag faults (but those were extreme - either from steering wheels removed/replaced with racing, or BOTH seats gone/replaced with racing - so not sure what just changing the pass seat does)

yes it can be deactivated but you need a durametric as well as to remove the tpms brain (somewhere in frunk, toward rear, driver side?).  there is a write up somewhere over on rennlist, a GT3 i think. 

from what i've read/seen on other forums, it might not be totally impossible to change or reset the DME. however, apparently there will be clear evidence of tampering. (as to what that evidence is, i have no idea. i'm just relating what i've seen posted a few different places.)

in any case, i would not be worried. i'm sure there are plenty of garage-queen, babied cars out there.

maybe you confused the TB flap a little when you cleaned it? anyway, try "resetting" it by turning key to ignition but do not start (i.e. just keep foot off clutch when doing this) and let it stay there for a minute. hopefully you'll hear all sorts of things/sensors/actuators going thru their checking and resetting motions, etc. you may or may not want to disconnect/reconnect battery before trying it. can't hurt.

as far as resetting the code itself, you prob need a durametric for that. but i dont think that code will harm anything by not clearing it, as long as you fix the issue that keeps causing it.

are you sure they checked the pulleys when they changed the serp belt? from what you're describing, def sounds like a belt or (since you had that changes already) a pulley.

interesting - a guy at VIR had this issue last week. many symptoms you describe, in an '08. sorry, i dont have any answers but i am curious to know the resolve...

a year ago when trying to diagnose what was eventually a mechanical suspension issue, my indy tried to chase down an electrical cause (no doubt due to my novice inability to describe the symptoms/realize what was happening!) anyway, they removed the batt and tray to get at some sort of "plug" that they contend could corrode or simply come loose/lose connection over time due to front end vibration. i'm not sure exactly what this plug connects or supplies power to but the only reason i mention is that you said it was raining - maybe water penetrated something it wasnt supposed to in between firewall and frunk? just throwing it out there...

i would think PSM issues are more related to traction, limp mode, triggering brakes/ABS unnecessarily etc. but what you're describing is a harsher ride which i associate with PASM and/or coils and shocks. maybe one of your shocks or springs up front is on it's last legs (or broken)?

hmmm, looks like he correctly tried to hit all the "possible causes" but unfortunately to no avail:

P0455

Leakage in fuel tank system

Diagnostic conditions

--Vehicle speed = 0 km/h

--Engine speed = 0 rpm

--Correction factor, height > 0.73

--Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature

--Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C

--Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes

--Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds.

--Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C

--Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak

--Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres

--Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V

--No fuel tank filling

--No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor

--No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent

--No fault detected for tank vent (flow)

The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off.

NOTE

--In this context, please also observe the function description.

Possible fault causes

--Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing

--Purge air line leaking

--Tank vent leaking

--DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking

FINE! :p actually, i thought the mention was "sunCOAST" which is in FLA. they are high also. however for the stuff i've been ordering (rotors, pads, oil filters, 3rd radiator) i didnt find pelican to be that high. but maybe i'll check around for my next roder.

pelican parts. lowest price albeit not the best website (confusing part #'s at times...)

Sorry, but that is anything but correct, Pelican tends to be high and also pushes aftermarket parts as being factory. Sunset Porsche has the best pricing and service.

pelican parts. lowest price albeit not the best website (confusing part #'s at times...)

As for the procedure, my thanks to equinox's DIY on the subject on rennlist, without which I would not have been able to attempt nor complete the swap. One helpful hint I might offer to his writeup is shown in the pic below.

you dont have a link to the DIY do you? your link just brings me back to the top of the page and i searched RL but couldnt find any posts by "equinox". i am planning on doing this sooner or later so would like to find all the DIY's i can. thanks!

my '06S has 53k on the clock with about 6k+ of that on track. i have had no issues with bearings. they will wear out eventually i'm quite sure but theyre pretty solid.

Thanks for the response and recs. Where are the renntech confirms located so I can see prices?

not renntech...rennLIST forum or 6speed forum. i'm not really familiar with this site but i know the other 2 and there are frequent discussions of car values and purchases on both the 997 forums as well as the classified/for sale forums. do a search and i'm sure you'll turn up some recent info and pricing.

never ask a dealer opinions on pricing.

if you look at rennlist and 6speed etc you will prob see recent confirms of upper 30's to low 40's for a "S" and mid 30's for a base model. and especially with the mileage you are talking about (50k considered "high" among this crowd) you are def in the ballpark for a 2005-6 for 35k. the prices go up by year from there.

for PPI talk to intersport in tysons, autothority in chantilly, TPC in jessup, ASG in fairfax.

if you dont do "routine" maintenance yourself, it can get pricey. oil is anywhere from 200-350, sparks and coils from 500-1000, brakes probably a couple hundred. the oil and brakes are EASY. sparks more of a challenge but definitely doable. in any event, try to learn to do yourself and/or ask help from local boards (dorkiphus) as many are wrenchers and are happy to help. me included.

i always love the wording of cheap foreign knockoffs, "PIWIS is the latest inspect equipment of Company". um, what? anyway, my bud owns a (pretty successful) general auto repair garage. he has one of these and said it works just fine and that i should buy one too. no way. i live by the rule "there is no such thing as a free lunch". but he is a cheap bastard and buys stuff like this and of course HIS luck is such that most things like this work out just fine for him. and me? I'M the guy who evens out the stats - if i bought it, it would fail within seconds and i would be out 2 grand! :p

When I took the factory tour 2 weeks ago, whilst in the engine assembly line section the guide said that the assembled basic engine unit (heads, cylinders, crank, block before all the add-ons) is mechanically rotated at 10,000 rpm to test for vibrations or other detectable problems. This happened right at a station on the line that our group viewed. So each engine has an unrecorded range 6 even before it leaves the factory. I'm not suggesting that this is equivalent to a mechanical over-rev, but the stress level of this test suggests to me that there is maximum quality engineered/built into the engine and that while it is not wise to abuse the limits, the car is built to tolerate some exuberant driving.

haha, it's like you are i are volleying in tennis because it's so funny you should mention that - i've had 2 techs (one dealer, one indy) say that these engines are more than capable of going past redline and even quoted the 10k RPM you ref'd. they said the problems arise with the immediate spin up of the engine. e.g. when a money shift occurs, the engine spins up incredibly fast. this is what causes the damage. but in a controlled test environment, these things can operate at (much) higher-than-redline conditions.

Thanks for the definition. The dealer tech (who seems to follow the company line you referenced) could not define the range limits but suggested that they were all bad, with the single 4 range value really serious. What is most interesting to me is that the car experienced all of its range values (#1-3 and a single #4) before I bought the car from a dealer as a certified car with warranty. So apparently the dealer Sales Department does not consult with the Porsche technical people when delivering a certified car to a customer. I have 43,000 problem-free miles on the car since the #4 value so I'm not too worried except for some mild concern getting the misfires solved and corrected.

FYI, it's also accepted notion (and maybe even confirmed somewhere by knowledgable techs?) that a "1" in a range is usually a ghost. it didnt happen. e.g. there is a poster on RL recently who had a "1" in R2-4 or something. obviously this is an impossibility given the fact that the engine needs to spin up then BACK down thru the ranges. plus i've seen mention of a "1" in R1. again, it's probably a ghost.

besides, if you do the math, a single ignition is an infintessimally small amount of time to be in a range. i actually have "3" in my R5 (oops!) and even that amount of time - .02 of a sec - seems too small to be able to record.

One other item. The fault output I got from the dealer included a section on 'Number of ignitions, range 1', 2, 3 through 6. Does anyone have a precise definition for the different ranges? All I know is that 4, 5 and 6 are very bad, possibly terminal for the engine.

Range 1: 7300-7500 RPMRange 2: 7500-7700 RPMRange 3: 7700-7900 RPMRange 4: 7900-8400 RPMRange 5: 8400-9500 RPMRange 6: 9500-11000 RPM

the readout should tell you: how many ignitions in each range (there are 3 ignitions per revolution), and the operating hour of the last recorded overrev.

track guys usu have (lots of!) R1 and often R2. a "money shift" can easily spin up thru R5 (ask me how i know). it's an accepted notion that R1-3 are usually fine, no damage despite what porsche says/warranty's. and if the last overrev in R4-6 happened long ago and engine is still running fine, then you should be ok also.

but then again, these things could grenade at any time so who the heck knows. :p

are they causing any issues? i.e. is your car not cooling properly (radiator) or is the frunk not opening when you pull up on the release button? i've noticed that sometimes the codes (esp the "communications" codes" are kind of benign and dont really cause any issues. (just thought i'd mention since you dont really say that it's causing problems, only that you have the codes.)

sure! i live in the mid-atlantic (MD suburbs) and we have humidity, rain, some snow, etc but thank goodness i have a second vehicle so that the 997 rarely sees moisture. i do notice some bolts rusting a bit but it's no comparison to where you are!