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rsligar

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Everything posted by rsligar

  1. Well, I got it back from the dealer... $525. THey replaced the whole lock/switch assembly. NOW, I understand how it works. They plastic part that I previously replaced was never the problem in my case. The insides of the actual assemble were getting looser and looser until it there was just too much slop in there to operate correctly and turn all the way over to the start position. Anyways, hope this helps someone else too. Ryan
  2. I bought a new battery and no change what so ever. I called the tow truck to pick it up. We'll see what the dealer says. I'll keep you posted.
  3. GUess I will be towing the car to the dealer. It will not start at all now. I have tried bypassing the clutch switch. I have checked to make certain the ignition switch was pressed on good. The battery is good, I put a charger on it to make certain. I did notice something strange though. Whenever I press the brake pedal, the dash lights and a/c lights die instantly. Same thing with putting the car in to Reverse. As soon as I take it out of reverse or let up on the brake pedal, the lights come back on. parking brake doesn't effect it. any last thoughts before I take the plunge
  4. do you think that the battery could test great and still be the problem? At 2.5 years old, should I just replace it for $130? I don't want to throw money away but I would kick myself if the dealer ends up replacing it.
  5. Loren, Do you think this could be the other part of the ignition switch? I replaced the white plastic part but I know the dealer recommends replacing the entire part including the long metalic part in front of the plastic switch. The lights on the dash are not even close to being accurate when I try to turn it over. I also got it to try and start befoe it died. wierd.
  6. I'm not sure the 02 has the same set up under the dash as my 04 986S - but I had a wierd won't start experience once. I would get some dash lights and some power options worked, but not all, and I had no crank. I check everything, and was about to give up, when I found that the harness that plugs into the back of the key switch had come apart. I pushed these back together, and it started. Worth a look. I haven't climbed under to look but I did get my arm back under the dash and make sure that connection was solid. I wondered if it might be loose as that would probably simulate simil
  7. Top is not an issue. I just realized in all my panic of getting stranded, I forgot I had my red clip on so the top would not go up. I have tried another key to make sure it wasn't a problem with the key loosing the programming or something of that nature. Still no change. Sometimes it will work fine, sometimes not. Any thoughts? I really don't want to take it to the dealer but am not sure what else to check. I don't want to get stranded again. Thanks Ryan
  8. I tested the battery or actually had it tested at Napa. They said it's in great shape. Shows 650 cca and the battery tested at 700cca. He said whatever your problem, it's not the battery. The battery is about 2.5 years old. SO, I have checked the post and cables, everything is spotless. The ONLY thing that I have done recently (3 weeks ago) was to install a sirius radio docking kit in the car. The power is connected to a red cable that comes on with the ignition power and the ground is grounded to the chasis. I used a power plug to connect to those points and then I plugged in the po
  9. I have owned my "02 boxster S for about 6 months. I replaced the ignition switch (just the vw plastic part) about 4 months ago as the dealer told me it was getting loose. I replaced it myself before I started seeing any electrical problems. I don't drive the car too much. I would gather that I have less than 1000 miles on it over the last 4 months. Yesterday, I went to start it and when I turned the key, everything went out except for the air bag light. I had to remove the key and try it about 5 times and then it started fine. Today, it did the same thing 3 times so far. I noticed tha
  10. Cassiebox, I did the front speakers and am getting ready to do the doors as soon as I can find a weekend free. you think the 6x9s will work? What would you recommend as far as a manufacture or model? Would I just center the speaker on the template and widen the hole for the speaker on the template? Thanks, Ryan
  11. I pulled the stock ones out and it sounds much better. The angle is different and I can tell but it does sound better quality-wise. I am in Palm Springs, CA area. Did you upgrade the doors as well? That's my next step. Need to get speakers and then the hardest part is blocking out some time to do it. I love doing that type of stuff but my 4 year old and 1 year old keep me pretty busy.
  12. I just upgraded the front speakers in my '02 boxster s to Polk Audio. I'm all finished but am unsure if I should keep the original tweeters? I listened to it and it sounds okay at low levels but it's pretty blaring at higher levels. I just wanted to make sure that I should not use them before I rip them out. It looked like the tweeters were removed on Andy M's post but I couldn't tell for sure. Thanks, Ryan
  13. sound system upgrade.... going very slow. I bid on a 6 channel amp on ebay and someone swiped it last minute as I slept in this weekend... Oh well, I'm wondering if I should start with upgrading the front dash speakers first anyway. maybe I lost the ebay auction for a reason. Anyway, I'm getting ready to buy the front speakers and the door speakers. I have been reading several posts and following Andy M's great documentation. I wanted to find out if the 4” MB Quart DKD 110 coaxial drivers are still the best speaker for the dash. Also to clarify, I do not replace the tweeter, correct
  14. Thanks tool pants. I'll let you know if it works.
  15. Replacing the m490 with a 6x40 amp. p/n 996.645.311.00 Can anyone verify if this is the correct amplifier I need to replace my 4 channel amp in my 2002 boxster? I just found one on ebay and am going to order it. I just wanted to try to verify so I don't end up with a paper weight if it's the wrong one. Thanks, Ryan
  16. rsfeller, I looked and see your pics fine now. I think once people get through the install and finished drinking, cursing or whatever helps us get through it, we move on to the next. So I think there are others with the same issue. It's so helpful to read the feedback such as yours though. I'm looking at your picture of jpg5 where the arm contacts the slider assembly and I think that might be part of my problem as well. I need to tear it apart again and check. I didn't grind or modify anything. I did stare at the larger ball and the small square socket that came out of the white sl
  17. rsfeller, Funny but not really. I just installed my ebay shifter last night. tore the car apart 2 days ago and then realized that in order to flip the handle, I needed to get someone to press the bolt out as I couldn't get it to budge. Once I got it back, I proceeded to install. I was only able to view your first picture but based on your post, I know exactly what you went through. I took my time and it came out decent. I am able to shift through all gears now. At first I was not able to get 5/6 well so I had to tighten up the cable on the left. Now it goes through the gears. I have
  18. Thanks again for all the info. Now as soon as I can get my short shifter installed and the car back together, It will be on to the speakers/amp project so I can tear it apart again. What a good way to get to know the car.... Ryan 02 Boxster S w/ 6spd
  19. I think mine is probably pressed in as well. Can anyone recommend the best way to remove it with standard home garage tools? I have a vice and basic tools like that but no crazy automotive tools. Next time I'll do this first before I tear down the car. At least I won't forget this lesson. Thanks, Ryan
  20. I am in the middle of installing the "ebay" short shifter at the moment. I have torn the car apart and have the old shifter out and ready to install the new shifter. I knew the handle was backwards but have not switched it yet. Does anyone know how to switch it around? I removed the two nuts but can't tell it the bolt is screwed in or pressed in. Don't want to break it so I thought I might ask. I'm sure I'm not the fist one to go through this. Everything has been smooth so far so I expected something silly like this. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks much, Ryan 2002 box
  21. Thanks everyone for all the help. I'm going to order the kit from Harvey and watch for a 6x40amp to replace what I have. for the M490 replacement, does anyone happen to know the model # of what I need to find on ebay for the 6x40amp? I'll order the amp cable from harvey too so I'm ready when I get the amp. Will be nice to have a little better sound. I recall reading somewhere where someone was able to adjust the sub speakers in the door to a higher crossover point, how is that done and was it helpful? next phase I'll probably switch out the speakers to some better ones if the PNP and am
  22. Cassiebox, I looked and I do have (I'm assuming) and amplifier under the hood. It's marked HAES from what I could read. How does it unbolt to read all of the model #? I see a bolt on the amp bracket on the top left and then i see another bolt on the bracket to the right but not sure of it's access because it's kind of behind the front of the bracket. So if I have an amp, I need to replace it? Is the amp just for the door subs? Thanks, Ryan
  23. Roger, What model amp did you get? 6 channel that you mentioned? How expensive was it and where did you mount it? Thanks, Ryan
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