Fulcrum

So there I was, enjoying a nice drive to work on a major highway in northern Florida. 4:30am, very few cars in sight. Right lane, cruise set for speed limit +2. sunroof open, but its a little chilly so the heat's on. Not in a hurry, no issues. Suddenly the cruise control drops out and I start slowing down. I cycled the cruise on and off several times, tapped the brakes, shifted gears - no response oout of the cruise control. No other warning lights of any kind. I checked the brake lights when I got to work - all three bright and clear. Except for the cruise control, the car is perfectly normal. Today, I used a Durametric to read the DME. Fault code for the clutch switch. I reset it and went for a test drive. Cruise worked fine for about 10 seconds, then dropped out again. This time, I put my foot under the clutch pedal and pulled the pedal away from the floor and held it while I engaged the cruise control. Cruise control worked fine. Noticed a very slight motion in the clutch pedal when it is fully out. Wiggling the pedal (much less than 0.25 inches - just the barest of motion causes the cruise to drop out). Do I have a bad cluctch switch? Does the clutch need to be adjusted? Or is there potentially something much worse going on? Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated. Fulcrum

Hello All, A while back I completed the OBC Hack in my 1997 Boxster using two switches in the dash instead of going the stalk route. After a little trouble at first, the mod has been working well with no issues. I would like to have the switches light up when I turn the car's lights on, similar to the rest of the switches. Does anybody have any ideas where I can get the appropriately switched voltage to add to the lamp pins on the back of the switches? Fulcrum

We have the latest TSBs here. When it says Superseded that means the one listed superseded a previous TSB. Thanks very much to Mike S and Loren. Its great when the answer you get is the answer you were hoping for . :)

I am changing the oil in my 1997 Boxster. I have read the manual and referred to the TSB. I live in northeast Florida USA am probably going to use the Mobil 1 5W50. My question is about the latest Oil Overview TSB, # 1701 dated 25 SEP 2008. The list says it has been superceded, but my question is "by what?" There is no other TSB on the list referencing oils with a later date (that I can find). Can somebody who knows explain to me the TSB "status" and how to tell if the TSB I am looking at really is the latest revision? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Fulcrum

I'm having a problem with the left and right dashboard vents/louvers in my 1997 Boxster 2.5 (not the center vents). The small plastic strip with the teeth that fits behind and engages the louvers so that they all move together when the control louver is moved up and down keeps disengaging from the louver flaps. This is occuring on both sides, but primarily the driver side, leaving me with control of 2 to 3 louvers on the driver's side and about half the louvers on the passenger side. Is there a trick to fixing these so they stay fixed or is there an upgraded part that makes replacement a better option. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Fulcrum

Nuts!!! I am working in the white connector, and the switches are wired exactly as you say. Success!!!! There were two problems. One was a bad switch - easy fix. The other was a ground problem - more difficult. I removed the instrument cluster and began checking continuity a third time, this time rather agressively wiggling the wires while doing the checks. I found the ground wire on the second switch to have a weak break. When the wire was stretched out and stationary with the instrument cluster removed, there was continuity, but when I wiggled the wire, the continuity was intermittent. I must have pinched the ground wire in some way while re-installing the cluster the first time. After replacing one switch, and re-doing the ground wire for the second switch, the hack works completely as advertised. Thanks very much to those that responded. Chasing intermittent electrical faults can be extremely frustrating, but you gave me the confidence that I had done the hack correctly and led me to re-visit my workmanship. Fulcrum

Nuts!!! I am working in the white connector, and the switches are wired exactly as you say.

Tool Pants: Thanks very much for the response. I used the footwell light switch - installed and wired 2. Working in the white instrument cluster connector (I have a 1997): Slot 21 is wired to pin 1 on switch 1 Slot 25 is wired to pin 2 on switch 1 Slot 20 is wired to pin 1 on switch 2 Slot 22 is wired to pin 2 on switch 2 Pin 4 of both switches are wired to a single spade connector, which is connected to ground in the dash behind the instrument cluster. The molex connectors are soldered onto the wire rather than crimped. The female QDs on the switches are crimped on. The spade connector for the ground wires is also crimped on. Fulcrum

I solved this problem myself. Tire Rack has the rubber - you have to call them and ask for it; it doesn't display on their website. Once I got the tire, I was able to change it out on a No-Mar Jr Pro Tire Changer, set up for a motorcycle front tire of similar size. This was a bit of a fight since the channel on the spare wheel is not very large/deep. Overall it worked well - the cost was about $75 total instead of the $500 the dealer wanted for a new wheel and rubber.

Hello All, I've just completed the OBC Hack using the instructions at www.pelicanparts.com, and I got nuthin'!!!!! There is no change in the display no matter which feature I try to access. I'll give the specifics below, if anybody has any ideas I would very much appreciate the assistance. I have been told that since my center display (below the tach) already displays the temperature that my OBC is already enabled, so I didn't take it to the dealer. (COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM? I have a Durametric, but not a PST2 or PIWIS - that is a different issue I'd like some help on some time. Do I need to take it to the dealer?). I completed the instructions using two switches. The only deviation from the instructions that I did was to take the ground pins from each switch and tie them together to a single space connector to attach to the chassis ground. I have confirmed all of my connections with an Ohm meter, both before re-assembly and after taking the cluster apart again when the project didn't work. I'm not an automotive professional, and while I'm not perfect, I have been able to earn a good living doing electrical/electronics engineering, assembly and repairs on some pretty cool stuff. I am certain the molex connectors are in the right slots, and the connections are good. The only thing I don't know is what happens to the molex connections after reassembly. One of the reasons I'm asking for help in this forum is I don't want to build a wiring harness extender to be able to run the car with the cluster on my work cart instead of installed in the dash ...;-( The cluster worked completely normally after reassembly - except my OBC doesn't work ;-( As I said, any thoughts, guidance, comments (and even sarcastic remarks) would be appreciated at this point. :angry: Fulcrum

Hello, I'm new to both the forums here and the Porsche DIY world. I have discovered some dry rot on the spare tire for my 1997 Boxster spare tire. The spare wheel has only been mounted once and is in great shape (used < 10 miles), but my local dealer wants me to relpace the entire wheel just to get new rubber (Continental 105/95 R17). Is this required, or is there a way to get new rubber mounted? I tried a few of the independent tire stores and they can't seem to get that size (although they say they could mount it for me if I got the tire). Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Fulcrum 1997 Boxster 2.5 - soon to become the "project" car when I pick up my ... 2008 Boxster RS 60 Spyder