C4 Pazzo

I just got back from Sharkwerks and meeting Alex, James and Loren. I really enjoyed meeting all three, checking out the shop and the Durametric software, and talking about Porsches. I was happy to learn that I had no stage 2 ignitions. Loren reset a couple of minor alarm codes and used the PST2 to reset a convertible top code. The Durametric software was pretty impressive. If they figure out a way to engage the ABS for changing the brake fluid, and also could read and calibrate convertible tops, I think I'd have to buy one. Thanks again guys for your hospitality.

Doug

My 2000 C4 came with PCM1. While it works well and is easy to use, the disks haven't been updated since 2001 or so (and won't be updated). Plus it takes 7 CDs to cover the US. I would not pay much for PCM1. I'd look for a good aftermarket DVD-based unit that will continue to get updated disks.

BTW, "lowering the engine" is not a big deal. Just back two nuts down an inch or so while supporting the engine with a lift. Provides a good bit of extra space to work (though not really necessary for the expansion tank replacement, at least on a 2000 MY).

Orient,

I think the problem arises because the TSB instructions are not clear. The instructions say to add the ring if the existing ring is in use (implying that a vacuum line already is attached). Clearly, the smarter way is to tap into that line, but some of us are/were not smart enough to figure that out. Both methods do work. Yours is clearly better.

You are correct. Orient Express just tapped into one of the existing vacuum lines. I went the other route, lowered the engine a couple of inches and added the sleave behind the easy-to-access ones. Wish I had done it Orient's way. It would have been MUCH easier.

I am wondering what the best price is right now for the PSE with the manual override switch (and associated parts). Any recommendations for price and retailer?

I got mine for about $1400, including the switch itself (which does not come with the wiring harness). Bought it from Sunset, a RennTech sponsor, who is terrific to deal with.

Kim

2000 Cab

Same here, about a year ago. I highly recommend Sunset.

You shouldn't have to pull hard at all on the quick release. Just pinch between your thumb and finger. I can't remember if you pinch on the grey part or on the sides around the grey part. But it definitly should come off easily.

Also, there is a fair bit of fuel in the filter and the hoses, so be careful.

If so, then the filter would be here.

On my 2000 C4 the fuel filter is strapped to the top rear of the coolant tank (as shown in your picture). I think I used a 7 mm socket to loosen the strap and slide it out (after disconnecting the quick action hose and using a 17 mm or 19 mm wrench to disconnect the other line).

With the headlights on, push the washer stalk towards the front of the car for the headlight washers (rather than pulling it towards yiou as you do for the windshield washers). Be prepared for it to spray not just your headlights, but also your hood, windscreen and mirrors.

Thanks, teeerex. I took another shot at it this morning, but was not successful. I can't seem to wiggle it into the slots. The bracket just wants to move (slightly) with the tank. I may have to pull the tank back out and take out the bracket to see if any of the bracket tabs are bent up too much.

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Update: I took another crack at it today. I ended up pulling the whole tank out, removing the bracket and sliding the bracket on outside the car. That seemed to loosen it up a bit. I lubricated the bracket before reattaching it. Then the tank slotted right in. My advice for anyone trying this is to make sure the tank is correctly seated in the bracket before attaching the coolant hoses and the sensor.

Loren,

The coolant tank was cracked, as you suspected. I replaced it this weekend (along with the fuel filter since it was convenient). Besides being a PITA to get the old tank out, the only other problem I had was I could not get the tank to seat properly in the black overhead bracket. It keeps getting hung up on one or more of the six tabs (well, now five since I broke one off in an attempt to spread it wider). I'm thinking about lubing up the plastic tabs on the coolant tank, or maybe even filing down the leading edge of the tabs on the coolant tank to help get them sliding onto the bracket tabs. Whattaya think? Any other ideas?

Thanks.

Doug

Here is the link to Loren's DIY. I've not done it, but it doesn't look too tough.

Polyrib belt DIY

On my 2000 C4 cab, the passenger mirror only tilts if the mirror adjustment selector is set to the passenger side.

Thanks for the quick reply, Loren. Glad I didn't try to "fix" the connection. That could have been a mess.

I'll keep an eye on the coolant level. I'm hoping that the "leak" was just the loose cap, but that would not explain why the coolant was low in the first place.

I need some help checking a potential problem with my 2000 C4 Cab. I noticed that one of the coolant lines doesn't seem to be seated fully on the white connector indicated with the arrow on the attached picture. It doesn't appear that anything is or has been leaking from this connection. I don't know if there is supposed to be this gap, so I'd appreciate if someone could take a look at their car to see if your coolant hose is connected in the same way. I'd hate to loosen and reconnect a hose that already is properly connected.

Thanks for your help.

Background: Last weekend I noticed the coolant level was below the min line. I haven't had any problems with high temps, but decided to add a few cups of dionized water to get it mid-way between the min and max lines. Unfortunately, I did not screw the cap on tight enough and left a puddle of coolant behind my left wheel after a 20 minute drive. I topped up to just below the max line with dionized water. Next morning, I notice the water is below the min line, so I add a bit more (now having used a total of about 1/2 - 3/4 gallon). I haven't driven the car again, but the water is again just (barely) below the min line. I don't see any signs of coolant leaking. I'm not sure if I have the updated coolant expansion tank, but the cap number ends in 01, so I think the cap is the "newer" one.

In my 2000 cab it only works if the mirror selector is set to the right side mirror.

My wife pointed out there's a lot more room under the bottom of the tail light when you lift up than it appears. We used one of her "knitting stitch holders" and fished the emergency release wire out in about 5 seconds. Problem solved. People are going to wonder why I carry it in my door compartment! Thanks, again for your quick response.

Thanks, Tool Pants. Looks like I need to find something thin to fish out the emergency release.

My rear lid release won't open the engine compartment of my 2000 C4 Cab. I checked the cable at the handle and it is not broken there, but it is very loose. Seems like it might have become detached/broken inside the engine compartment. How can I release the engine compartment latch without the normal lever?

Drpaulmarsh. The sway bars just replace the stock sway bars. The rear one is really easy to swap out; just have to loosen 4 bolts on the chasis and one on each drop link. The front is a little tougher to get at, since you need to take off the plastic cover under the car and also loosen the diagnonal braces, but that just adds a bit of time. Changing out the sway bars is the easiest part of the install.

You do need to get the car aligned after it is lowered.

My 2000 C4 Cab has tracked to the right since I bought it in September (not a hard pull, but a definite drift). After installing the RoW M030 and getting it aligned, it has improved, but still drifts slightly right (not just due to the crown in the road). Normally, I wouldn't do anything about this, but I tore the ball joint boot on the right control arm when I did the M030 install (next time I'll use a decent ball joint extractor). So, I think I have three choices:

1. Do nothing - Put some rubber cement on the boot and replace the control arm if/when the ball joint goes.

2. Put in a new series control arm now - cost about $260 plus new alignment

3. Put in a service control arm with adjustable caster eccentric - cost about $540 plus alignment.

So, what would you do? Would you seize the opportunity to even out the caster? Or would you wait and see what happens? Is 1/2 degree of caster differential enough to cause this tracking? If you went for the adjustable control arm, would you install it on the right side, and match the 7.55 deg caster of the left side, or would you move the left arm to the right and match 8.04 deg (assuming swapping wouldn't change the caster)?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Here are the alignment stats:

Front caster (Left/right) 7.55/8.04 degrees

Front camber (L/R) -0.37/-0.44 deg

Front toe (L/R) 1/32" 1/32"

Rear camber (L/R) -1.24/-1.17 degrees

Rear toe (L/R) 1/32" 1/32"

Thrust angle -0.01

Secondary Angles

SAI (Left/Right) 17.44/18.76 degrees

Included angle (L/R) 17.07/18.32 deg

Setback (Front/Rear) -0.13" 0.39"

Track Width Diff. -2.73"

Wheel base diff. -0.52"

WOW...!!

I wonder how good a business might it be of providing artificial sound enhancement via the in car sound system but synchronized with the engine RPM/loading/gear ratio.

Better and a lot less expensive than using a 300HP engine to produce 300 watts of sound power.

A set of earphones on the driver and we could get by with as little as 3 watts. Bose sound cancellation headphones in reverse!

$300 a pair or priced equal to an otherwise useless K&N retrofit?

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I leased an Alpha Romeo 166 a few years ago when I lived in Italy. It was diesel fueled and from the outside it sounded like a truck. Inside the cabin it sounded awesome. I swear it had to be artifically created.

The hardest part is cutting those **** plastic tabs out that hold in the OEM shifter.  I used a few 4-letter bombs during that one.  The instructions make it sound like an exacto will just cut them away.  Yeah right.

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Give each plastic tab a whack with a mallet using a large flathead screwdriver or chisel and they'll come out quickly (wear glasses, though. The tabs will go sailing.)

This is at most a couple of hours for a first time DIYer. Go for it. Just remember its a slippery slope to the next mod. And the next.....

ar38070,

I wish I had followed your (and others') advice about the ball joint tool. I didn't, and now I've got to deal with the consequences. Fortunately, I only messed up one side. I'm hoping the rubber cement will hold up for a while.

I don't see any reason to swap out the radius arm unless and until the boot fails and the ball joint gets trashed.

I've got a similar issue with the tie rod boot (oops!). I put some rubber cement on to try to seal the tear. Wondering if there is a better fix (other than replacing the whole control arm).

tia