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I just got back from Sharkwerks and meeting Alex, James and Loren. I really enjoyed meeting all three, checking out the shop and the Durametric software, and talking about Porsches. I was happy to learn that I had no stage 2 ignitions. Loren reset a couple of minor alarm codes and used the PST2 to reset a convertible top code. The Durametric software was pretty impressive. If they figure out a way to engage the ABS for changing the brake fluid, and also could read and calibrate convertible tops, I think I'd have to buy one. Thanks again guys for your hospitality. Doug
C4 Pazzo replied to samvit's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)My 2000 C4 came with PCM1. While it works well and is easy to use, the disks haven't been updated since 2001 or so (and won't be updated). Plus it takes 7 CDs to cover the US. I would not pay much for PCM1. I'd look for a good aftermarket DVD-based unit that will continue to get updated disks.
C4 Pazzo replied to marlinspike's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)BTW, "lowering the engine" is not a big deal. Just back two nuts down an inch or so while supporting the engine with a lift. Provides a good bit of extra space to work (though not really necessary for the expansion tank replacement, at least on a 2000 MY).
C4 Pazzo replied to Kim's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Orient, I think the problem arises because the TSB instructions are not clear. The instructions say to add the ring if the existing ring is in use (implying that a vacuum line already is attached). Clearly, the smarter way is to tap into that line, but some of us are/were not smart enough to figure that out. Both methods do work. Yours is clearly better.
C4 Pazzo replied to Kim's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)You are correct. Orient Express just tapped into one of the existing vacuum lines. I went the other route, lowered the engine a couple of inches and added the sleave behind the easy-to-access ones. Wish I had done it Orient's way. It would have been MUCH easier.
C4 Pazzo replied to Porsche_Ron's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I got mine for about $1400, including the switch itself (which does not come with the wiring harness). Bought it from Sunset, a RennTech sponsor, who is terrific to deal with. Kim 2000 Cab Same here, about a year ago. I highly recommend Sunset.
C4 Pazzo replied to NickS's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)You shouldn't have to pull hard at all on the quick release. Just pinch between your thumb and finger. I can't remember if you pinch on the grey part or on the sides around the grey part. But it definitly should come off easily. Also, there is a fair bit of fuel in the filter and the hoses, so be careful.
C4 Pazzo replied to NickS's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)On my 2000 C4 the fuel filter is strapped to the top rear of the coolant tank (as shown in your picture). I think I used a 7 mm socket to loosen the strap and slide it out (after disconnecting the quick action hose and using a 17 mm or 19 mm wrench to disconnect the other line).
C4 Pazzo replied to jjordan's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)With the headlights on, push the washer stalk towards the front of the car for the headlight washers (rather than pulling it towards yiou as you do for the windshield washers). Be prepared for it to spray not just your headlights, but also your hood, windscreen and mirrors.
Thanks, teeerex. I took another shot at it this morning, but was not successful. I can't seem to wiggle it into the slots. The bracket just wants to move (slightly) with the tank. I may have to pull the tank back out and take out the bracket to see if any of the bracket tabs are bent up too much. +++++++++++++++++++++++++ Update: I took another crack at it today. I ended up pulling the whole tank out, removing the bracket and sliding the bracket on outside the car. That seemed to loosen it up a bit. I lubricated the bracket before reattaching it. Then the tank slotted right in. My advice for anyone trying this is to make sure the tank is correctly seated in the bracket before attaching the coolant hoses and the sensor.
Loren, The coolant tank was cracked, as you suspected. I replaced it this weekend (along with the fuel filter since it was convenient). Besides being a PITA to get the old tank out, the only other problem I had was I could not get the tank to seat properly in the black overhead bracket. It keeps getting hung up on one or more of the six tabs (well, now five since I broke one off in an attempt to spread it wider). I'm thinking about lubing up the plastic tabs on the coolant tank, or maybe even filing down the leading edge of the tabs on the coolant tank to help get them sliding onto the bracket tabs. Whattaya think? Any other ideas? Thanks. Doug
Here is the link to Loren's DIY. I've not done it, but it doesn't look too tough. Polyrib belt DIY
On my 2000 C4 cab, the passenger mirror only tilts if the mirror adjustment selector is set to the passenger side.
Thanks for the quick reply, Loren. Glad I didn't try to "fix" the connection. That could have been a mess. I'll keep an eye on the coolant level. I'm hoping that the "leak" was just the loose cap, but that would not explain why the coolant was low in the first place.
I need some help checking a potential problem with my 2000 C4 Cab. I noticed that one of the coolant lines doesn't seem to be seated fully on the white connector indicated with the arrow on the attached picture. It doesn't appear that anything is or has been leaking from this connection. I don't know if there is supposed to be this gap, so I'd appreciate if someone could take a look at their car to see if your coolant hose is connected in the same way. I'd hate to loosen and reconnect a hose that already is properly connected. Thanks for your help. Background: Last weekend I noticed the coolant level was below the min line. I haven't had any problems with high temps, but decided to add a few cups of dionized water to get it mid-way between the min and max lines. Unfortunately, I did not screw the cap on tight enough and left a puddle of coolant behind my left wheel after a 20 minute drive. I topped up to just below the max line with dionized water. Next morning, I notice the water is below the min line, so I add a bit more (now having used a total of about 1/2 - 3/4 gallon). I haven't driven the car again, but the water is again just (barely) below the min line. I don't see any signs of coolant leaking. I'm not sure if I have the updated coolant expansion tank, but the cap number ends in 01, so I think the cap is the "newer" one.