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Sounds right. Our '01 C4 averaged 25MPG throughout europe, ~1500 miles, much of that on the Autobahn not going slow. Once in a lifetime event so I wasn't paying much attention to break-in procedures.

"...Is this normal.." According to Porsche, yes. According to VW (and the ROW) no, NO..!! Maybe now that VW "owns" Porsche this will finally get fixed in the same way that VW fixed their version of the Cayenne, firmware revision. In the meantime the best procedure to use is turn the defrost/defog/vents "on" then back off. On my '01 C4 this procedure works. This design flaw can prove to be dangerous, especially in your part of the country. In July of '01 I was approaching Birmingham Alabama in the early evening just after dusk after a HOT day. Sporadic rain showers late in the afternoon early evening along the way. I was finding it a little hard to see the road ahead, bi-xenon projectors on, and finally came to the realization that condensation on the OUTSIDE of the windshield was getting denser and denser as I drove along. WHAT..?? Quick swipe of the wipers cleared up the windshield. I had noticed a climate control anomally, had to reajust the temperature setting from time to time, during our drive in Europe. Mentioned it to the factory rep (shrug..) when we turned it in. Picked it up at POE at noon that July day. It wasn't until I got back home that I took time to figure out what was wrong. On my '01 it only begins to route airflow from the defrost/defog/demist ducts once the cabin temperature is cooled down to within a few degrees of the temperature setpoint. I suspect it is designed this way so as to not discomfort the driver and passenger with too much COLD airflow directly to the face an upper body. We might like to set directly in front of a window air condition to initially cool down coming inside on a HOT day but once our comfort level is reached we move away to enjoy the room's "general" coolness. Oh, you can improve the functionality of your A/C system fairly dramatically by installing a shut-off valve in the hose to the heater core. Shut the flow off in the summertime and the A/C compressor duty cycle will fall dramatically as will fuel consumption, abet not so dramatically.

At least the coupler bushings under the cover right in the "tunnel" at the center point of the four seats.

*** made this "discovery" back in about '00 in our '99 911/996. Hot, HOT day traveling across AR in stop and go construction zone traffic and the engine began to overheat because one of the front cooling fans had failed. Gave up on using A/C for a few miles until I came to the realization.... Necessity truly is the MOTHER of invention.

"..I don't put the "pedal to the metal" often..." The way I read the SB documentation you don't need to, that's what the SB does for you, UNCONDITIONALLY.

Just went back and read "WHY IT WORKS" at the SB site. Even simpler than I thought. Lets say that your gas pedal puts out a signal voltage of 4.00 volts at the mid-travel point and 8.00 volts on the floor. What the SB appears to do is "multiply" the gas pedal's positional sensor output voltage by ~2. So by the time your foot moves the pedal to the mid-point the engine ECU is seeing 8.00 volts and therefore more quickly goes to WOT. Does that make the last 50% of gas pedal travel a "dead zone"...?? Or maybe it only multiplies the signal if it "sees" the gas pedal being depressed rapidly....??

You're missing the point, entirely. You are absolutely correct that the transmission shift, shifting time, is not affected by the SB. Which is where the problem might lie. The standard e-throttle operation might allow for the time, full and complete time, for the transmission to accomplish a shift before allowing the engine RPM to quickly, too quickly, begin rising. My concerns about this possibility are somewhat alleviated after reading the install procedure for the SB. I was confused as to how the SB could accomplish the functionality without interfering with PSM's ability to INSTANTLY dethrottle the engine when necessary so I went to the SB site to find out. If the install information is correct then no one need worry about my point. It appears that the only thing the SB has any capability of performing is to make the engine ECU think the driver is SUPER-HUMAN. Able to move tall...no, wait, that's another story line.... .....Able to move the gas pedal fully to the floor faster than the average human. Someone will advise me if I'm wrong but the way I see it if the instructions are correct and the SB functionality is imposed between the gas pedal sensor(s) and the engine ECU than what other functionality is possible...?

I never heard of the Sprint Booster before, so I googled it, looked at their web site - http://www.sprintboostersales.com/ - and read their product info. From what I could tell from their specs, this thing only changes the throttle mapping, doesn't increase horsepower (per their web site), and doesn't improve 0 to 60 times (again from their web site). As far as I can tell, it doesn't do much other than making the gas pedal operate the throttle more aggressively in the lower RPM ranges, giving the illusion of power and speed. I'm not knocking the product, but does it do anything more than making the car feel faster? The way I read the installation directions it installs between the gas pedal sensors and the ECU. Someone please correct me if this is wrong but IMO in that position ALL it can EVER do is simulate the "acceleration" the pedal travel to full "lead foot" quicker than humanly possible. And, obviously, no interference with PSM dethrottling. 98% snake oil.

Sorry, but I just happen to know, absolutely FACTUALLY, that Toyota/Lexus are using e-throttle firmware "to protect the drive train" via inducing delays in engine RPM/torque rising until enough time has elapsed for the automatic transaxles to fully complete a shift, most especially a downshift where in the pedal position indicates hard acceleration requiring a "severe" (multiple level) downshift. Not saying Porsche does that, but I simply wouldn't take the chance. Oh, and how does SB "handle" the dethrottling function of PSM when the throttle plate MUST NOT "follow" the gas pedal.

Sorry, but I just happen to know, absolutely FACTUALLY, that Toyota/Lexus are using e-throttle firmware "to protect the drive train" via inducing delays in engine RPM/torque rising until enough time has elapsed for the automatic transaxles to fully complete a shift, most especially a downshift where in the pedal position indicates hard acceleration requiring a "severe" (multiple level) downshift. Not saying Porsche does that, but I simply wouldn't take the chance.

Screw, small part ingestion.

I agree. Owners are not likely to experience the downside until 40-60,000 miles. Just how much is a Tip rebuild...?

Brake fluid gets "old" in the same way the air used to inflate the tires gets old.

And just how sure are you that the OEM e-throttle firmware wasn't written/designed to be "lazy"/slow in order to give the Tip clutches time to more firmly and fully seat, especially on a "hard", ACCELERATING, downshift....?? If you were driving a manual transmission what sequence would you use on the clutch/shifter/gas pedal...?? With the Tip you're pushing down on the gas pedal in order to initiate a downshift sequence, do you really want the engine RPM to be rising, EACH and EVERY time, before the Tip even "leaves" the higher gear...??

Caliper piston, one side, not extending putting "bias" on bearing each time you use the brakes.

He probably means slow fade to off. If you add bulbs to one of those circuits you are chancing blowing the transistor, exceeding its IC rating, that provides the fade.

As a point of FACT fog lights when used in conjunction with low beams are actually a DETRIMENT to your night time distance vision. Fog lights should ONLY be used alone in day time conditions that warrant their use. Drivers who have fog lights on along with either high or low headlights are doing that only for BLING...!! Most states REQUIRE the use of your main headlight beams between the hours 30 minutes after sunset until 30 minutes prior to sunrise.

I disconnected the "fog" wire and wired both of the "extra" rear lights into the brake circuit. Goal was to have a much more pronounced indication of brake application. I also wired my DRL circuit into the street/parking/tail/marker light circuit as is done in Canada for DRLs.

The description is exactly what I experienced years ago in AR in August in our 99 C2. I quickly discovered that one of the front radiator fans was not working and drove all the way home to Seattle with the A/C working and the engine NOT overheating. The secret... Turn the temperature control to MAXIMUM cooling "lo", recirculate mode, and then use the blower speed to control/regulate cabin temperature. Bypassing the system's reheat/remix temperature regulation path results in lowering the heat loading of the radiator enough that I did not need to replace the fan until I got home. Actually, it was your high speed driving and therefore full air flow over the condensers that kept temps down. My fans are always completely off running on the highway and AC running while maintaining <200F engine temps. Just short trips, like from Chicago to Vegas, :notworthy: No, road construction all across AR was what first brought the problem to my attention. But yes, throughout the remainder of the trip as long as I was able to maintain a decent roadspeed the problem didn't exhibit itself, or wouldn't have were I not using the "procedure".

The description is exactly what I experienced years ago in AR in August in our 99 C2. I quickly discovered that one of the front radiator fans was not working and drove all the way home to Seattle with the A/C working and the engine NOT overheating. The secret... Turn the temperature control to MAXIMUM cooling "lo", recirculate mode, and then use the blower speed to control/regulate cabin temperature. Bypassing the system's reheat/remix temperature regulation path results in lowering the heat loading of the radiator enough that I did not need to replace the fan until I got home.

Answered elsewhere.

Rebuilt CDI arrived from Loren at SC yesterday and seems to be the FIX...

LOX...Liquid Oxygen.. LOX "injection" would displace/replace the ~80% nitrogen on our atmosphere and therefore have the potential for increasing an engine's HP by 5X. TRG's standards are pretty high but so are their prices.

When this first started happening we verified that the fuel pump relay was being energized and that was what was shutting the engine down. There are only three circuit connections that can energize this relay, a factory alarm, the air intake microswitch, and the rev-limiter. No factory alarm, no alarm at all, so only the rev-limiter has a possibility for latching up and thereby requiring a switch "off" before restarting. The rev-limiter is now disconnected and the engine still shuts down so I guess the next step is to send the CDI away to loren at Systems Consulting.

I have an '88 911 Carrera Special Edition and the A/C is NOT satisfactory even here in the Seattle area. My current plan is to add a rear spoiler so I have room to mount a set (6..?) of 12 volt high volume computer cooling fans under the spoiler to force airflow through the rear lid mounted condensor.