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I assume the battery is about 2 years old as the label on the battery shows Oct 05, which I assume it was replaced back in Oct 2005. I charged the battery this morning and this time around, when I started the car, the volatge shows slightly under 14 volts. The battery and ABS light is NOT illuminated on the cluster this time. I'm going to risk it and drive to my office which is about 1/2 hr away. I'll bring a jumper cable and jumper power pack with me just in case ...

I'll do a search and check the headlight and ignition switch.

Thanks

A new Costco battery is a relatively inexpensive trouble-shooting technique.

Or swap in one, temporarily, from a different vehicle.

You only have one rear fog light.

On RHD cars the rear log light is on the right side. For LHD, is the left side. Porsche has a socket on each side to accomodate both LHD and RHD markets.

The light helps drives behind you see the proper place to pass. If you had 2 rear fog lights, they could be mistaken as brake lights.

Most US drivers will have no idea why your driver's side rear "brake" light is BRIGHTLY on but not the passenger side.

I wired both left and right "FOG" lights into ONLY (no street/parking) the brake circuit so there is a more pronounced indication of braking.

You only have one rear fog light.

On RHD cars the rear log light is on the right side. For LHD, is the left side. Porsche has a socket on each side to accomodate both LHD and RHD markets.

The light helps drives behind you see the proper place to pass. If you had 2 rear fog lights, they could be mistaken as brake lights.

Most US drivers will have no idea why your driver's side rear "brake" light is BRIGHTLY on but not the passenger side.

I wired both left and right "FOG" lights into ONLY (no street/parking) the brake circuit so there is a more pronounced indication of braking.

Hello,

I am a new owner of 2000 996 C2. It seems to run perfectly, except idle.

Idle is rough sometimes, hunting between 650 rpm and 950 rpm.

In one day, I found funny buzzing sound from the right side of the fender.

It comes every few seconds almost periodically, and lasts 1 or 2 seconds.

When I opened the feul cap, it diminished immediately and completely.

Then, idle seemed to be stable.

After re-cap, the buzzing come again after several seconds.

Drametric diagnostic tool reads fault code P1128 and P1130.

Air Mass was already replaced.

Actual values:

FRA 0.91 both bank

RKAT -3.61 both bank

Is this RKAT value is normal range??

Thank you all in advance for your help.

My 2001 had a recall to replace the gas cap.

I am trying to confirm whether or not it is considered "normal" to hear and feel synchronizers grinding when shifting aggressively at 5500+ RPM. My 04 996 C2 6 spd with 26k miles demonstrates this consistently when grabbing 4th from 3rd. No problem at lower revs or at top revs when I shift slowly. Porsche tech test drove the car and witnessed it at his own hands. He said it was not normal but blamed worn shifter bushings. So, I purchased an OEM short shift kit and had it installed today. (Dealer offered to intall the shifter at no cost under CPO warranty if I bought the part, couldn't pass that up) Shifter works great but it didn't fix the problem.

I spoke to a parts guy at a different Porsche dealer and his answer was "oh yeah" they all do that when you are driving aggressively.

Can anyone tell me whether or not this is normal?

Thanks much

We need a better definition of what you consider "aggressive"....

I suspect that most any of us can "over-run" the synchronizers if we really tried.

I can't imagine how a short shift kit would help in this case, hindrance maybe.

Oh, be careful who you tell this story to, dealer may have inadvertently voided your CPO by billing the labor for "unauthorized" work.

I am new to this forum, as is my first Porsche, a Midnight Blue 2000 996 Coupe. Simple and sweet.

With that, I jump right in; after 20 minutes of my first night driving in the car my litronics decided that they would shut down when switching to high beams. They are happy to run as low beam-only, but don't step up when high beams are turned on.

Those first 20 minutes were great, but what good is seeing out to 20 seconds down the road if I can't see 5?

Any help out there for a first timer?

Sounds as if you don't have the "bi"-xenon version of the litronic headlights, or maybe after market.

You imply that they worked for the initial 20 minutes, are you sure of that?

If the xenon/HID lights do not shift the beam pattern upward, as do bi-xenons, when you go to high beams keeping them lit would/will be detrimental to your night distance vision. Same reason that fog lights are always disabled with high beam use.

An additional bit of information is that for night time driving you can "automatically" tilt both outside mirror down slightly (5 degrees?) by duplicating "your" seat memory with a second selection, say ignition key and last seat memory button, but with the mirrors tilted down.

Hey, that is a brilliant idea! :clapping: I never thought of that, that's your idea, right? I've never seen that in the manual.

Thanks for the tip! :thumbup:

Necessity really is the mother of invention.

I wanted a convex outside mirror for the driver's side and the self-dimming one was a tad too expensive. So I bought the convex mirror only with heat and developed, thunk up, the aforementioned technique.

Never thought much of the automatic self-dimming feature anyway.

I saw from the owners manual that my side mirror is supposed to tilt down when I reverse my car. It's not doing that and I'm wondering if I can fix that.

Has anybody done it before?

Thanks

Kristian

996 carrera 4 convertible

Yes, when you "set" the seat memory have the transmission in reverse.

An additional bit of information is that for night time driving you can "automatically" tilt both outside mirror down slightly (5 degrees?) by duplicating "your" seat memory with a second selection, say ignition key and last seat memory button, but with the mirrors tilted down.

Does Porsche not have a "bleed valve" at the ABS manifold/pumpmotor assembly? Both of my Lexus vehicles, '92 LS and '01 RX, do. Actually the '92 has two additional ones, one at the ABS pump/manifold and another at the Trac pump/manifold/accumulater.

Absent that extra bleed valve you'll need to get the Porsche's ABS/PSM/Trac pumpmotor to activate for an extended period of time to get the "old" brake fluid to flow out of "those" brake line sections. My '92 even has a 3000 PSI nitrogen filled accumulator that holds a substantial level of brake fluid that must also be "bled".

Even with the extra fittings, valve(s), the Lexus "techie" who did my '92 put it on a rack and "drove" the rear wheels for a minute or so to get the Trac system to activate and force fluid flow in from/into those line sections.

Hi guys, have anyone of you encounterd the aircon ducts nt working? even if i put it in a standard position the air still comes out on top of the dashboard and fogs up my windsheild :o hope theres smethng we can do about it thnx guys :)

VW issued a TSB that fixed this for their version of the Cayenne but Porsche insists that "their" climate control is operating properly and "as designed". Porsche also denied, in writing, any commonality between the Touareg climate control and that of the Cayenne. Idiots.

Even back in late '01 the service manager at Barrier Porsche would not even open a work order for mine. He had already seen/heard teh complain many times and knew there was no fix.

They are several posts about this design flaw here and there on the internet. I First noticed the flaw shortly after taking US delivery of our '01 C4. We were approaching Birmingham AL on a hot and HUMID July evening just after dusk, just as darkness was approaching. My forward vision seemed to be declining faster than was appropriate to the approaching darkness and I finally came to the realization that the outside of the windshield was fogging, FOGGED, over and turned on the wipers.

Still had my '99 at the time so when I got home and checked it did the same thing. The last 997 I test drove also did.

Apparently the climate control only opens the system to windshield air outflow once the cabin air temperature declines to within a few degrees of your setpoint. My guess that the design intent was/is to reduce the driver/passenger discomfort level from coolish system airflow directly to your face and upper body by more widely "dispersing" the system airflow. Prior to approaching the cabin setpoint the airflow is likely to be even lower in temperature but at that time the blower speed will also be higher and the engineers may have recognized that exposing the windshield earlier, at that time, to that level of airflow would QUICKLY cause the outside to fog up.

The only suggestion I can offer at this time is to use the same technique everyone else seems to be using. Always remember, religiously so, to use manual over-ride to close the windshield defrost/demist/defog airflow outlet ducts whenever they automatically open in cooling mode.

The practice I use is to depress the button to manually open those ducts and then press it again to "force" it closed.

Rather than a simply "blank" indication, icon, Porsche should modify the climate control display to show when the individual outflow paths are open, not just the anbiguous "blank" or "closed". In automatic mode these indicator icon being blank could mean open or closed.

I have always used Meguiar's Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant (the white creamy one) for all my plastic and vinyl trims, as well as my weather trims.

I figured if I didn't have to buy an additional product just for the weather trims, it'd be great.

Coz' I only treat the weather trims twice a year at the most, and it has worked fine for the past 10 or more years.

Weather trims on all my vehicles have always looked fresh and black,

I also use it on my wiper blades, although I don't use my wipers much, I depend on RainX.

Speaking of wiper blades mine were a slight source of wind noise until I replaced them with the new EXPENSIVE, $40 pair, Bosch "wing" type.

At the moment I have two products that I use to keep window seals "live" and thereby lower wind noise.

Multi-purpose silicone lubricant, comes in a 10 oz. spray can, made by Pyroil, a valvoline company, Lexington, Ky.

NAPA Sil-Glyde in a 4 oz. squeeze tube, apply with your finger. Made by AGS Company, Muskegon, MI.

Personally I perfer the squeeze tube "grease".

Next time simply "bridge" that trickle charger into the right fuse holder in the fuse panel. Some owners manual describe how.

The diy stuff never worked for me, you most likely have a leak and as it costs about the same to have it diagnosed as it does to buy the diy stuff to me it is a no-brainer

The most recent event for me is that my brother took his '91 LS400 in to Goodyear for an oil change. You know, Goodyear, the place, like Firestone, that bonuses employees by 30% of parts and labor for "upselling" customers. Within a week there was NO refrigerant in the system. When I came on the scene the low side valve looked to be leaking, oily dirt accumulated all around and nearby, and for some strange reason a red straw from a WD-40 can (used to make it look as if the valve was leaking??) lying under the cruise control servomotor.

Just prior to July 4th I recharged with 32 ounces of R134a and as of today he says the A/C is still working well.

"Man"..ual valve leak?

Personally I have also had a switch added (inside the center glove box) to open the A/C compressor clutch circuit so I can keep the A/C compressor from operating altogether unless I really need cooling capability. I typically leave it off except during the summer months.

Do you not have an econ button?

Is there ANY modern Porsche, or any other marque other than the Prius, with one of those?

Try adding a can of Refrigerant 134A from an auto parts store until you can do the proper fix, they sell a short hose just to be used with these

cans that connects to the low pressure side of the AC system lines.

I had heard it's a good idea to 'recharge' an R-134a system even if there is no problem. Also if you use one of these, how can one adjust the pressure/know the pressure needed so that it doesn't exceed the max pressure in the A/C system?

Does anyone know about this?

I definitely would not charge an ac system that is working properly. In order to achieve maximum cooling there needs to be a certain amount of refrigerant and having too much can cause just as many problems as having not enough.

Actually if you follow the directions carefully, correctly, you will not overcharge your system.

DIY charging is done via the refrigerant line valve on the "low" side and the pressure gauge supplied with the R134a recharge kit has adjustable compensation for current OAT, Outside Air Temperature. The low side should never be charged to a level above 40PSI and the 40PSI gauge mark is adjustable in accordance with OAT.

There really should be a "ready/enabled" and an "active/in use" indicator IMMHO.

Yeah, I obviously thought it was confusing.

Well, after some fumbling around, I found the button on the cruise control that turned the light off.

I recently drove a GMC product, rented, wherein the indicator only came on if the cruise control was actually "in control". We really need both, armed, and working/active.

And by the way...

You can improve the efficiency of the A/C system, and increase FE somewhat.

Run the system on MAX cooling, recirculate, and the lowest blower speed that will maintain your comfort level.

Max cooling will completely bypass the REHEAT/REMIX path thereby reducing the duty cycle of the A/C compressor quite substantially. It also helps to go to Home depot and buy/install a manual hot water flow shutoff valve so the heater core isn't kept hot enough to contribute via radiant heating effects.

Personally I have also had a switch added (inside the center glove box) to open the A/C compressor clutch circuit so I can keep the A/C compressor from operating altogether unless I really need cooling capability. I typically leave it off except during the summer months.

Try this that works for me in sometimes muggy Charlotte.

1. Turn car on and AC on and press Auto

2. Press teh forward vent button and the footwell button on the AC pannel

3. Turn car off

4. Turn car on and the selections you made should be still working

Now the flow to the windshield vent should be off and no more fogging until you change the setting or press auto. If you are on Auto and press the front vent and footwell, and do not turn the ignition off, I have noticed that the vent will still leak air and you will have foggy windshield.

Yes, in fully automatic mode in the summertime when predominantly using cooling once the cabin temperature approaches, cools to, within a few degrees of your temperature setpoint, the stupid system will start blowing COOL airflow (seemingly a substantially HIGH portion, TOO high IMMHO) to the interior surface of the windshield. This can be especially hazardous at night when the slow "gathering" of condensation on the otherside of the windshield will not be quickly discernable.

My first experience was shortly after I took US delivery of my '01 in Charleston. As we approached Birmingham AL about 8 PM that HOT and HUMID August evening it took me awhile to realize that the reason my vision was being compromised was because the outside of the windshield was being slowly fogged over with condensation.

I first complained about this shortly after taking delivery of my '01.

I even wrote Porsche, PCNA, and Porsche in Germany about this seriously HAZARDOUS design flaw.

I was told the system was operating properly as designed.

Subsequently I happened to learn that the early VW Toureq shared the same problem, as did the Cayenne (read the posts on VW Toureq and Cayenne forums). VW stepped up to the plate and issued a climate control firmware update to fix there's and Porsche Germany responded to my second inquiry by stating that my Porsche and the Cayenne had no design commonality with the Toureq.

SURE.

The local dealer would not even write up a work order saying this operation was "normal".

So in summertime the best way to be safe is ti always remember to lock out the defrost/defog/demist air outflow ducts as someone already described in a previous post.

So, apparently "Automatic Speed Control" is another name for cruise control. There is a light on the dash that indicates that this feature is "ready". What I don't understand is why would there be a light on the dash on all the time that tells you that the cruise control is ready to use. When exactly would it not be ready to use?

EDIT: Nevermind. I pulled up a manual from this site and see that apparently I accidently have the cruise control turned on. I'll see if I can turn it off next time I go to my car.

There really should be a "ready/enabled" and an "active/in use" indicator IMMHO.

Try adding a can of Refrigerant 134A from an auto parts store until you can do the proper fix, they sell a short hose just to be used with these

cans that connects to the low pressure side of the AC system lines.

I had heard it's a good idea to 'recharge' an R-134a system even if there is no problem. Also if you use one of these, how can one adjust the pressure/know the pressure needed so that it doesn't exceed the max pressure in the A/C system?

Does anyone know about this?

R134a recharging kit, $20, includes pressure gauge and directions for monitoring low side pressure for correct recharge level.

"Asked and answered."

Hello all. This is my first post on the forum & I must state I've defected. I traded my sweet 97 c5 vette for a mint 2002 911 coupe. Have been a vette guy since 89, but always loved the 911. Seems that the Germans have found a way to shoehorn two seats in the back for the kids & that makes all the difference in the world. So I am a convert & will be seeking collective 911 knowledge. By the way guys: the vette; gruff mechanic with the snap on tools girl in the shop versus the fussy German engineer with the white lab coat. The tightness of this car & rear engine design clearly make for a superior ride. So, how to get that 320 hp figure to 400, about where my vette was? Thats the question.

I'm formerly a long-time C4 owner. I switched in 2002, first to the Boxster (which was a huge HP drop) and then to the 911. I really loved the fact that I could personally do any work to the car that I wanted to, but I would never go back. The rear-engine difference is huge - the front-end is super-light and goes wherever you point it, then the weight in the rear makes it stick solid on the gas. I can't count how many times I spun the rear out on the vette when I was aggressive with it. Give yourself time to adjust - you'll probably miss the low-end torque the most, and you'll never completely get that back in the 911 with a 3.6L, but even with less horsepower, you will really appreciate the refinement of the stock package. Maybe where you drive you could take advantage of a lot of extra horsepower, but for me, the only time I'm able to give the car a workout at all is when I take it to the track, which I've only done once.

Personally I think the new 'vette is just plain stunningly beautiful.

Now if it just had a modern V6, say of ~300HP, instead of the current, otherwise totally OBSOLETE, pushrod, "BIG IRON".

I'd take mine with T-Tops....

Sorry, no. You will need to find the cable under the right front wheel well.

Do a search here - this has been covered many times.

Wish I could remember which fuse....

When this happened in my 99 I connected 12 volts into the fuse panel and I remember having to turn the ignition switch on to get it to work but work it did.

Don't do what I did, take on good faith that the fluid had been replaced... Besides I should have put Super blue racing fluid in there...

I showed up at Sebring this w/e for a Driver Event with the 996 - been there before many times with my older 911 or my Boxster, never had any issues. The 996 however is about 20 mph faster by the time I get to the same corners, it is also heavier, and if you combine both, it taxes the brakes a lot more than my older cars did! At least that's my theory ! Bottom line, while in the heat of catching up people I started feeling that my heel and toe was getting sloppier (did not immediately occur to me that it was because the brake pedal was sinking), but I was a little suspicious so I braked a little earlier at the last turn (the one that was on TV for the 12h race where the ferrari and the porsche banged each other? a 180 essentially) - earlier meaning @125 MPH instead of 130, heading into the 180! That is when the brake pedal went to the floor! NOT a fun feeling ! Whatever was left by furiously pumping got me from 130 down to 80 or so, after that I was on my own ;-( I made the turn, using an extremely wide line I might add, and sheepishly cut back and took to pit entrance... By which time I could not have stopped the car to save my life, even with pumping !! I had to go park elsewhere in the paddock - you don't want to use the handbrake on hot discs.... 40 minutes later, all was normal!

Super blue brake fluid it is !!!

I very seriously doubt, VERY SERIOUSLY DOUBT, that what occurred with you on the track was primarily due to "normal" brake fluid contamination.

There are "high performance" brake pads and/or aftermarket calipers/rotors available that do not transfer/disperse braking heat quickly and evenly and that will sometimes result in BOILING even fully FRESH brake fluid.

It really does sound as if your problem has more to do with a lack of adequate cooling rather than fluid contamination.

Look you system over thoroughly and then decide just how it is possible (NOT!) to get enough contamination into your brake fluid to cause your experience.

Did you remember to turn PSM OFF...?

Inadvertent PSM/TC/LSD braking can be a big contributor to brake heating at track time.