wwest

Anyone ever thought of SuperCharging via LOX injection to the intake upstream of the MAF..??

any ideas in CA for a shop to install supercharger? i live in the bay area, but anywhere in CA will do fine with some experience with this procedure

If the shop you choose doesn't recommend, STRONGLY recommend, first lowering the engine's static/base/native compression ratio then I would move on.

Would simply adding a second head gasket accomplish enough...?? Anyone know..??

An SC will, without question, increase the effective/dynamic compression ratio. Other than the above the only way to compensate for that, prevent detonation, is to enrich the mixture, SUBSTANTIALLY so, and that might shorten the life of the catalyst dramatically.

1978 Targa with about 90,000 miles.

The engine quits and the key must be cycled off for a count of 5 and than can be restarted w/key. Also will not push/coast start until key is cycled off and then back on. Previous conclusion was that rev limiter, "triggered" by too many sparks from the (faulty..?) CDI, was latching up due to battery being over-charged.

Last fall, Nov., the drive from Seattle to McCall Id , last 100 miles, was only completed via installing a new battery and disconnecting the external regulator. Car was not driven much over the winter months but on the first warmish day, May 17th, and problem repeated.

New alternator w/internal regulator was installed at that time, mid-may, and problem could then NOT be repeated.

Until yesterday....

I have advised the new owner that the rev-limiter should be disconnected as Zimmerman recommended.

Analysis of the removed alternator indicated internal overheating to the point insulation was burned off of the wires between the stator and diodes and bare wire was probably contacting metal alternator frame intermittently. Car would intermittently begin mis-firing and back-firing after driving over bumps.

I'm bothered, bugged, by the possibility that since the battery is mounted all the way forward of the car with the alternator at the rear is there a poor connection somewhere in between that is resulting in the alternator output spiking (PWM regulation) to a too high voltage for the CDI and/or rev-limiter on each cycle of the regulator.

When I was there in May I checked a few of the possible poor connection points, at the alternator itself, alternator/engine, at the starter, the battery posts and the battery ground strap, and I called myself checking the engine/chasis grounding strap but don't now have good memory of that.

Any suggestions...??

What is a "6c Ac hack"...?

Costco....

A battery is a battery is a battery and so on and so on.....

I am considering switching out the AWD in my C4S to only rear wheel drive. My reasons are that I like the wide-body look and since this is my 4th Porsche, I miss the feel of the rear wheel drive only. Another reason is weight, that I am told that the front wheel drive portion is about 280lbs of weight on the car. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience in doing the conversion to rear wheel drive and how much hasssle it would be to rebuild the front end. Will the Tiptronic S transmission convert all the power to the rear tires, if I simply remove the drivetrain to the front? I do not have resale concerns, because I am out to only please my own driving experience. Oh, by the way, I live in So Cal and do not need the AWD for snow (only snows in So Cal every 10 years for about 2 hours). Considered selling car and buying a 997S Cab Tip, but the resale on C4S is not so good right now! Anyway, just love the options on the C4S because it is absolutley loaded with everything!

Were someone to disable the VC, Viscous Clutch, I doubt you would notice in everyday driving, and maybe not even on the track.

The VC will not stiffen up and couple in the front drive absent a reasonably long period of disparate wheelspin/slip at the rear, which TC will typically NOT allow.

So the only difference, really, is the weight factor.

Okay, so I have have yet another rookie Porsche owner question.

I have a sensor mounted in the lower right hand area of the front intake area that sure looks to be a sensor for outside air temperature yet I cannot find any reference in the manual regarding panel display of the temp. My car does not have the onboard computer so assume that without this option I cannot display the temp and the sensor that I see is simply along for the ride? Do other systems use the data that it senses?

Climate control uses the sensor.

From one "old" dog (69) to another...

You're welcome.

I am experiencing the same issue on my 2000 C2 daily driver. The rodes are not great. Part of my issue is probably suspension. I have 120k miles on the car and probably original shocks. I ordered the ROW suspension and will start to put it on today. Others have commented that they gave better ride than original US spec but probably had degraded suspension to begin with. Tires is also an issue. Seems whenever I buy new tires (had the car 2 years, put 56k miles on it, and replaced 4 rear sets of tires, long story). Initially, any of the tires I tried (I am on 18's as well) were fairly low noise. After little wear they all got very noisy. I even put sound deadening all in the back and hasn't quelled the noise much. Personally, I am wondering if the tires with parallel grooves (follow road direction) versus chevron type (cross pattern) provide less noise. Next time I will try the OEM Continental tires with parallel grooves. I have pondered the same thing you are suggesting, switch from 18 to 17, but will try the suspensioin first.

I went through three sets of NEW tires before I came to realize that at about 8,000 miles each brand became uncomfortably NOISY.

'01 R/awd C4.

You might trying lowering the tire pressure significantly below factory specs temporarily with your 18" wheels to get an idea of the additional comfort level you might get with 17" wheels. But whatever else you do, DO NOT, NEVER, compare the Porsche's ride with a Lexus LS.

You will need a new interior rear view mirror as it has the detector and control.

But I would advise using one of the extra seat memory buttons to tilt both outside rear view mirrors downward 5 degrees at night.

I wanted a convex mirror for the driver's side but the auto-convex mirror was too expensive so I bought the standard convex and use the above method.

Chicken or the egg..??

Left turn, HARD left turn, the rear begins to "kick" out to the right, overstear, PSM will brake the right front wheel to "counter" the overstear.

Assuming the same thing DOESN'T happen in a hard right either the yaw sensor or stearing wheel rotational position sensor is/has failed or is out of calibration.

What happens with PSM OFF..??

In 100 F Houston weather, stop & go traffic with AC blowing full, I have seen 110 C on the coolant temp (C6). From the previous post I understand that should be a problem.

Can anyone chime in here?

Joost

Yes.

I would check that both front radiator fans are fully operational.

But in the meantime, or otherwise......

Turn the system to maximum cooling ("lo" in the temperature "set" window), recirculate mode, and lower the blower speed to your comfort level noise wise. Once the cabin is cooled to your comfort level adjust the blower speed manually to maintain that level.

Also be sure, certain sure, the windshield duct (defrost/defog/demist) airflow mode is NOT in automatic via manually turning it OFF(!!) otherwise you suddenly may find yourself absent any forward vision on a HOT but humid day in Houston. For some reason the Porsche engineers have missed a HUGE flaw in the design of the A/C, once the cabin is cooled to your setpoint a substantial level of COOLED airflow will be routed from the windshield ducts and then COOL the windshield to a level wherein on a HUMID day (or night, even worse!) condensation will begin to form on the outside.

VW saw fit to fix this flaw on their version of the Cayenne but Porsche even refuses to acknowledge the problem/issue exists. "Operating as designed".

Using the above control technique you will have bypassed the system's reheat/remix mode thereby raising the AC efficiency substantially. Fewer A/C compressor cycles will result in a lower heat load on the engine coolant radiator and slightly improved FE to boot.

You can avoid this procedure by going to Home Depot and purchasing a water flow shutoff valve to insert in the coolant line to the heater. During the summer months simply turn off the flow to the heater core. Additionally I installed a switch in the A/C compressor clutch circuit so I can prevent the A/C from operating unless I actually need cooling, or initial cooldown.

First, I would make pretty sure it is the evaporator that is leaking and not one of the two condensors. The condensors are exposed to hits by road debris so I would expect a leak there to be much more common than an evaporator. I would also get a 2nd option since, 1, a leaking evaporator is a pretty rare event, and, 2, while the price may not be out of line it is high enough to justify a second analysis.

A "simulated" (delayed intake valve closing) Atkinson cycle mode is used on the Prius, hybrid Camry, Ford Escape and Mariner hybrids. Miller cycle was most currently used on the Mazda Milennia "S". Miller cycle is simply a "superset, add-on" to the Atkinson cycle.

Insofar as I know no one has before suggested using the two "separately" and transitioning from one to the other.

Atkinson cycle is HIGHLY fuel efficient but poor at producing high torque per liter displacement, POWER. Hybrids make up for the shortcoming via electric drive suppliments.

Yes, it has ALWAYS bothered me that SuperCharged or TurboCharged engines, moreso the latter, run in detuned/derated, low FE mode, when simply cruising along on the highway at a relatively constant speed.

So I have often suggested, advised, that a new engine control technique be used, the Atkinson/Miller/West cycle. Make use of a variable intake valve closing delay to dynamically change the "effective" compression ratio for different driving "modes". For simply cruising along the compression ratio would be 12:1 (DFI assumed) with the power/combustion stroke expansion ratio being 15-16:1, ATKINSON CYCLE mode.

Put your foot into it, and the "RAW" compression CR goes quickly to 9.5:1 as the SC spools up to provide the additional cylinder charge required for POWER, MILLER CYCLE mode.

Use an HSD type e/CVT to drive a positive displacement SC via the combined engine and A/C synchronous motor inputs. Infinitely control the SC speed/boost level and thereby eliminate the throttle plate.

First, I cannot imagine that the Porsche engineers left any "room" for additional compression ratio, DYNAMIC compression ratio, via SuperCharging or TurboCharging, even "cooled" additional air "charge".

You could probably detuned/derate the base engine by reducing the static CR via using a spacer, or maybe even double up on the head gaskets.

The knock/ping detection might be able to compensate for low octane fueling via EFI mixture control but I doubt the EFI "range" will be sufficient enough to accomodate an SC or TC.

Agreed .. Plenum is a good one. I have never had a problem with a K&N filter either. But I believe this poster is considering the K&N "Cold air kit" which has been known to cause some people problems. It also requires drilling some holes in the car..

I figured but I should have been more specific. I installed my K&N cold air intake system three years ago. I have replaced my MAFS since then but I'm confident the failure was the result of age and not the filter element oil. I saw no residue on the element but it was definitely bad.

actually there are many folks out there with ruined mafs after K&N intake (including myself) luckily my CEL went of after 50 miles of K&N and i immediatly cleaned the maf and replaced the filter with AEM filter 500 miles later no CEL......... :D

Can/should we justifiably assume that was a "factory oiled" K&N...??

I have been running K & N filters since the early 90's with no adverse effects. I had a Ford Explorer that I clocked 195,000 miles on over a period of 13 years using K & N Air and Oil filters the entire life. I sold the car to a neighborhood kid and he drove it for a few thousand more miles until he was hit by a drunk driver. He was ok, but the car was totalled.

I've always noticed improved throttle response. Some of the vehicles have been noisier, some have not. All have had improved fuel economy by about 2 mpg.

And no, I don't work for or sell K&N :)

So, the question is..

Did your Ford Explorer have an MAF/IAT sensor set to control the A/F mixture under acceleration...??

That's where the K&N gets into trouble. There is NO way to re-oil the K&N lightly enough to prevent some minor level of oil wicking out of the filter and being deposited on the downstream MAF/IAT sensors. The little dirt that follows forms an insular coating on the MAF/IAT sensors and now you're shortening the life of the engine in your Porsche.

Independent lab reports and owner measurements have again and again indicated that these supposed cold air kits do NOT deliver any level of cooler air to the throttle plate than the OEM system.

Shall "DISPLAY" or "REFLECT"...

Here in WA if the bulbs are not on, DISPLAY, they must be REFLECTIVE.

On my '01 C4 wiring the tail/street/parking/marker into the DRL circuit (as in Canada) solved the problem of the marker not being reflective.

In the US very few people know about rear fog lights so I simply wired "both" rear "fog" lights into the brake circuit to get a more pronounced notication toward the rear that I am on the brakes.

I had the box in my 2000 996 upggraded to a GT torque biasing uint. I LOVE it. It has totally transformed the car. Well worth the $1400! I track the car several times a year, and it really puts the power to the ground. It's the best $1400 upgrade I've ever done to a vehicle. I had my installed at GBOX (talk to Ryan) in Colorado. Reputable guys, EXTREMELY knowledgeable.

Good luck,

-Lennie

Lennie,

Thanks for your feedback. I'm curious as to why you selected (or were advised) on

the Torque Biasing vs the traditional LSD. What are the noticeable or functional

characteristics that differ between these two types.

Have you noticed any additional noise? Other issues? Greater understeer at the track?

Thanks for your help.

- Sanjeev

I would think that PSM's "virtual" rear LSD's QUICK acting capability would prevent a traditional LSD from ever coming into play/use.

Whereas a torque biasing LSD would probably be transparent to PSM except in extreme cases.

When did this start, and what changed around then?

Loren / Orient - This is an intresting little problem, annoying as well. No new switch has been installed and no work done on the car at all. It just started doing this recently. I have had intermitten issues with my lights and tail lights and I have to think it is somehow related.

Sometimes when I turn the car off but keep the key in the ignition the drivers headlight and tail light will remain on, however the passenger side headlight and tail light will not be on. When the car is started however they both turn on.

I'm not entirely sure if this is normal or not, but again it's intermitten.

Your Porsche blue with grey interior BBS wheels...??

I have a 1999 996 C2 Coupe (CANADA) Car with Daytime Running lights. When I put the key in the ignition and turn to accessory or start the car, all my brake lights turn on. Both drivers, passenger side and brake light in wing turn on. When I apply the brakes the lights then go out. Essentially they are opreating backwards!??

All my turn signal light, headlights etc seem to be working properly. I've checked all my fuses and everything seems good. I had a quick look at the switch on the brake pedal and all the connections seem to be good.

I'm hoping someone has encountered this problem in the past and might have some suggestions.

Thanks

Les

Canadian DRLs include street/marker/parking/tail lights being on. I would look for loose grounds.

There's a company called Electro Auto in California I talked to a while back. They make conversion kits for 914s.

http://www.electroauto.com/gallery/vp914.shtml

However, the 911 loaded up with all those batteries would be a really heavy car. Plus, there's no A/C, which is not an option here in Houston.

I've been wanting to build an electric car for a while (not out of my 996), but I've yet to find a good option.

I have always thought the Boxster, rear engine RWD, would be a good target, test mule, for fitting a salvaged Ford Escape hybrid system.

Try AutoAnything. Lotta brands.

http://www.autoanything.com/floor-mats/20A10011A1.aspx

NO, molded not available.

http://www.autoanything.com/floor-mats/20A10011A1.aspx