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Hi, just noticed that my car is leaking oil from the rear of the engine, where the oil pump sits. It seems to be coming from the split line between pump housing and crank case. Are there any TSBs on this or has anybody come across this before? Cheers, Uwe 2000 C2

Also, he is very funny: "The polymer-based waxes are usually collected from specially trained robotic bees that gather the polymer nectar from plastic flowers (or it may be made in chemical factories)." "Many people are touting overspray clay as the new way to "clean" your paint. This is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off the top layer of skin. You will uncover a layer of fresh clean skin, but this may not be the most comfortable nor beneficial experience for your face. " Cheers, Uwe

Hi Jeff, ACEA A3 has been around since 1996. Before that we had CCMC G5, which was quite similar. FWIW, here are the ACEA specs: ACEA European Oil Sequences I hope I didn't bore you guys with too much technical detail. I guess the only point I wanted to get across is that these days there is a proliferation of engine oil types and you have to go into quite a bit of detail to be able to tell if a certain oil is right for your engine or not. Use oil that's on the OEM's approved list and you are safe. I guess the reason why some oils appear and disappear on the list is this: In order for an oil to become Porsche approved, it has to comply with ACEA A3 and be run by Porsche on an M96/03 test rig. I think Porsche charges the oil manufacturer about 40,000 Euros for this, but the approval is only valid for as long as the oil composition stays within certain parameters. If an oil disappears from the list, it might be because the oil manufacturer has changed (updated) the oil but chosen not the re-run the test. Don't know for sure though. Cheers, Uwe

Hi, I'm afraid you need to change your oil straight away, otherwise you risk damanging your engine, and not just at high outside temperatures. The problem is not so much the oil weight, but what we call HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) viscosity. HTHS gives you an indication when the oil film will break down and is therefore much more of an indication of the oil's suitability than the oil weight (the two are related in that higher weight oil will generally have a higher HTHS viscosity). Normal engines such as Porsche need an HTHS viscosity of at least 3.6 mPa·s. There are some very fuel-efficient engines that work on 2.9mPa·s. Anyway, I just checked the Mobil website and Mobil 1 5W-30 has only 3.08 mPa·s, which is too low for Porsche engines. HTHS isn't always listed, but another good indicator is compliance with ACEA A3, which is the European Oil Standard that Porsche recommends for its engines. Mobil 1 5W-30 only complies with ACEA A1 and A5, but not A3 (again A1 and A5 are standards for special fuel-efficient engines). Mobil 1 0W-40 is fine, it has an HTHS viscosity of 3.6 mPa·s and complies with ACEA A3, and so is Mobil 1 15W-50 with 5.11 mPa·s. (NB: it is perhaps worth noting that 15W-50 is not necessarily superior to 0W-40 just because it's got a higher HTHS viscosity. It's not the more the merrier, once you're at 3.6 mPa·s, you're fine. 15W-50 has a higher dynamic viscosity than 0W-40 which give it somewhat inferior cold start properties. That might not be much of a problem in Florida :D :D :D ) Cheers, Uwe

Hi, the bearings can't be re-lubed, they have to be replaced. Known problem even with more recent MYs, usually fixed under warranty. If you have to pay for it yourself: the bearings are quite cheap, but they charge you for a couple of hours of work. Cheers, Uwe

Hi, there are uniball camber plates around. The GT2/old GT3 uniball plates had two sets of holes, one for road use (-1.0 to -2.5 camber) and on for track use (-3.5 to -5.0 camber). The final adjustment within those ranges was done, as Loren pointed out, through shims in the lower track arms. Cheers, Uwe