allenh5

a17322a, thanks so much for the reply, it was pretty obvious once I knew where to look! This did fix my issue with refueling, but still have the check engine light and difficulty starting the car after fueling. Back to the troubleshooting! Thanks again!

So I just replaced my fuel line vent valve but when removing the old valve I didn't take note of the sensor that is on the fuel neck (yes, my dad would now call me a shade tree mechanic for that). Where does the end of this sensor attach? Speaking of the end towards the top of the neck. Chasing down that darn P0446 code.

2001 996 C2 - Tip

A little more. Now that I have replaced this vent valve I am experiencing problems fueling my car. It acts like the E6 fuse is blown, having to pump gas very slowly.

I am attaching a pic of what I called a sensor, still not sure what this is.

Pull out the old unit and install the new unit making sure to include the dangling sensor about the size of a number 2 pencil and a couple of inches long in the same spot as before.

Apparently I didn't pay attention when I put the new valve in and didn't connect this sensor properly as now I am having issues filling my tank. Where is the end of the sensor supposed to be mounted or placed?

Just a quick update. I did take the car to a very well established indie shop in New Orleans for the work. This shop has been in business longer than the Porsche shop both in Baton Rouge and in New Orleans. They replaced the AOS (without dropping the engine), changed spark plugs and serpentine belt all for $2200. Still a bit pricey but as I truly didn't have the time to do this myself I was pleased. Excellent work in a timely manner and washed my car....no complaints here!

Just got my quote from my closest, trusted indie. Much more in line with what I thought.

And the above is what I was thinking as well....a dealership taking 20 hours to drop the engine replace a part, that should take very little time to replace with the engine out and reinstall the engine. I'm not sure I want them working on my baby.

Sorry for the rant but just had to get it off my chest. My local dealership just quoted me 20 hours labor to change my AOS. '01, 996 tip, C2. Total estimate, $3300. I don't blame them for wanting to drop the engine but good grief, 20 hours to do it??

I had a wind screen in my Boxster. It didn't seem to really deflect that much wind. I'm wondering if the wind deflector for the 996 works better. Share you thoughts, please.

MY 01

996 C2 tiptronic

Just turned 100,000 miles.

The only 2 "major" repairs I've had are, replaced water pump at about 63,000, replaced coolant overflow tank at 90,000, both DIY thanks to Renntech!

DIY oil changes at 7500 mile intervals.

I love this car. Daily driver and runs like a well engineered high performance sports car should.

My MY'01 C2 just turned 99,000 miles. Only issues have been water pump (at 62k) and Coolant Overflow Tank (at 78k). Regular oil changes at 5000 miles. No issues.

2001 C2 Tiptronic Cab. 87,000 No major issues. Replaced water pump at 65,000. Replaced coolant expansion tank at 85,000 (both done by me with excellent DIY tips from this site!) Third owner, both previous owners had regular maintenance at the same shop in Plano, TX. Oil changes every 7500 miles by me. Purrs like a wild kitten, ready to run. Love telling my friends that she is 10 years old while standing outside the car and starting her. They shake their heads in amazement.

Once again, Loren to the rescue.

Cleaned the MAF, cleaned the throttle body hooked everything back up, running like a new car.

Drove it to and from dinner last night with the CEL on, started it this morning, no CEL and been running like a top all day with no CEL and no other issues.

Another DONATION COMING NOW!!!

If that is the case then the CEL should clear on its own - after a number drive cycles.

No fault codes yet, 2nd Porsche and have never had a CEL....so am just now having to buy/borrow one.

The secondary air pump is plugged in, however the first time I started the car, I didn't have the air hose connected and it idled about 30 seconds until I noticed it. Could that have thrown something out of whack?

Fault code(s)?

Double check your secondary air pump electrical connection - easy to forget to plug back in.

Changed out my coolant expansion tank....not too much trouble (after getting the old unit out). Installed the new one, filled and fired it up for a leak check. One small leak, decided to wait until the next day to search for that leak. Next day I removed the air unit to do a visual on the hoses and make sure they were all dry prior to starting the engine. Went inside and then heard my car start, (had a friend over) the friend had decided to start the car with the air unit not installed, but sitting on the back lip. MAF was still connected but not unit was not connected to the throttle body.

I shut the engine off, installed the air unit and started the car. CEL......engine running rough (like a vacuum leak). Don't have a durametric tester, but thought I would start simple, clean the MAF, clean the throttle body, and do a visual for any hoses that may not be connected.

Any other simple suggestions before I get a durametric and check the codes?

edit: '01 C2 Cab Tiptronic

oK, HERE WE ARE ON sUNDAY AFTERNOON, THE SEVENTEENTH OF aPRIL, sorry about that, we have the water pump loose, its about to come off and i'm trying to follow the video closely, I have done everything with the engine carrier brackets and I have the engine jacked up a littel and my question is, the engine carrier bracket thing that goes from the engine mount to engine mount has all its nuts and bolts loose but why should it move? its attached to the engine mounts, it wont move, the engine wont move because of the front engine mounts so whats all this about move the engine carrier bracket forward? Towards you i would imagine. I would need to loosen the engine carrier bracket from the engine and from the engine mounts but the video doesnt say anything about loosening the bracket from the engine mounts. and the pump wont come out until the engine carrier bracket is out of the way. I'm stuck guys, i am not able to figure out what to do, HELP !

I used this tutorial, and had very little trouble replacing my water pump.

http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/

That is a beautiful ride.

I am catching the air-cooled bug......

MY01 C2 Cab. The orientation light above my rear view mirror does not stay consistently illuminated. On for a while, flickers sometimes, but off mainly.

Any suggestions? Bad contact? Doesn't the "light box" come out as a unit?

46 Boxster S (986)

51 996 C2 Cab (this one gets me accused of a mid-life crisis)

wasted all those years

E-6 Fuse blown on mine as well.

Was the E-6 fuse- good new year so far!

Loren, thanks.....it did turn out to be the E-6 fuse...it was blown

My 2001 C2 began experiencing this problem this week.

I did let the fuel level get really low, but did fill the tank full. However, upon the next fill up I noticed my gauge only read 3/4 full and began getting back flow like the tank is full.

Should I let the tank run really low again and fill completely?

Thanks for the diagram. I will check the connectors.

Sounds like it is out of calibration to me. Did you let the tank run really low and then not fill it up completely?

It is possible that I did. This car is my track car / Sunday driver, and so it sits a lot. I almost always fill it full when I get gas, but once or twice recently I only put in 5 - 8 gallons because I was concerned about having the gas sit in the car for a couple of weeks. When I did a partial fill, I found that the "miles to go" would not calibrate correctly, and so I went back to filling the tank full. I can't remember if this current problem occured immediately after the partial fills.

Mike

I seem to be experience the same problem...

And I also let the car run low in fuel and did not refill it all the way....

Any updates on this?

Thanks,

Gus

C2/C2S gas tank is different from the C4/C4S gas tank.

In C4 it is a saddlebag tank with one part on each side of the front wheel drive - and the fuel level is only on one side.

C4/C4S fuel tank

C2/C2S does not have this issue as it is all one tank.

C2/C2S fuel tank

So, I think you may have another issue. Best to put Durametric or a PIWIS on the car and see what is really going on.

My 2001 C2 began experiencing this problem this week.

I did let the fuel level get really low, but did fill the tank full. However, upon the next fill up I noticed my gauge only read 3/4 full and began getting back flow like the tank is full.

Should I let the tank run really low again and fill completely?

Thanks for the diagram. I will check the connectors.

Sounds like it is out of calibration to me. Did you let the tank run really low and then not fill it up completely?

It is possible that I did. This car is my track car / Sunday driver, and so it sits a lot. I almost always fill it full when I get gas, but once or twice recently I only put in 5 - 8 gallons because I was concerned about having the gas sit in the car for a couple of weeks. When I did a partial fill, I found that the "miles to go" would not calibrate correctly, and so I went back to filling the tank full. I can't remember if this current problem occured immediately after the partial fills.

Mike

I seem to be experience the same problem...

And I also let the car run low in fuel and did not refill it all the way....

Any updates on this?

Thanks,

Gus

I have a '01 996. Ordered a non-lighted mirror and replaced the broken flap on a lighted mirror with the new flap. Fit perfectly. Saved about $25 bucks (difference between lighted mirror and non-lighted).

http://www.suncoastp..._Code=POTE996IN

Great, that's exactly what I need! BTW, did you have to transfer your old mirror to the new assembly? If so, what is difficult?

I'm not sure, since I didn't order these. I did a "repair" on my broken mirror flap. I epoxy-glued the broken plastic pieces and spring clips that hold the flap closed. The repair lasted about 6 months, then they broke again, so I wouldn't recommend it. Now, I have gone with velcro dots. I'll probably pick up these replacement parts at some point.

If I recall, removing the mirror was simple once you got the plastic housing removed from the vinyl visor. Removing the housing was a bit tricky. You need to know where to place your screwdriver or spatula to depress the removal tabs correctly.

Search is your friend. Here are some links:

Visor Removal (hint: you just pull it off)

Plastic Insert Repair

Removing the plastic housing

Good luck!

Just have any good shop back flush plastic pieces out and then flush and refill the whole system.

Before or after installing the new water pump?

Back flush before the new pump - flush and refill after the new pump.

Thanks Loren!!!

Just have any good shop back flush plastic pieces out and then flush and refill the whole system.

Before or after installing the new water pump?

MY2001 996 C2 - Tip Cab

So I have about 59k miles on my car therefore knew it was about time for a water pump replacement. Taking a road trip yesterday to mom's I hear a noise that sounded like a fan belt slipping. Keeping a watchful eye on the temp gauge (it barely rose at all) I continued on, but kept periodically hearing the noise. Pulled off on an exit with a large gas station and parking lot knowing I had trouble. As soon as I get stopped on the exit ramp, I see steam coming up. Long story short, waterpump is shot, get a tow home placing a call to the stealership while riding and purchase a new pump, then arrange for a friend to pick it up as the parts dept is closed on Saturday.

So my day today has been replacing the waterpump. I get the old one off and think I have another problem......the impaler is shredded, and there are pieces MISSING!!!

So my question is, do I now tow it to the dealer and let them extract more blood, or is there a way I can flush out or locate those missing pieces?

Attached photo shows what is left of the impaler.

I am looking at a MY2002 C4 and just wondering if I should expect the 4 to give me problems at a certain mile range?