machina

You have to remove the trim first, 2 Allen bolts, 5mm relatively deep hidden behind both small caps, loosen 3 to 4 strokes, the switches comes out along the inner side.

Perfect, thanks FRM.

dr

Have to change my hood/trunk switch.

Ordered the new one, just wondering if it just pops out of the inner plastic sill or if you have to remove the sill first.

Thanks,

dr

Hey guys, just found this shot of the front sub-frame with the swaybar attached.

Gives you a good idea about what is going on under there.

dr

Interesting Ken,

I have the GMG bars and they told me to modify my front drop links by having them cut and welded.

This would be the least expesnsive option I guess but not sure how you would determine the correct length to fit each of the adjustment holes on the bar ends.

Sounds like we will need adjustable drop links. I like the RSS units but you cant go wrong with tarret either.

dr

Just changed the springs in the car as well, so new ride height etc.

When you drop it all, can you take one quick picture?

BTW, which tie rod/ball joint removal tool will you use?

Thank you very much for the DIY link. You just saved me 2 days.

Ken

Ken, only did the rear bar and a string alignment. Didnt have time to get to the front bar. Wont be able to get to it for a few days, will check in when its finished or when I'm finished.

Just measured them,

25.6 mm rear

29.9 mm front

They are hollow, beautifully made by Eibach to GMG specs. Kit comes with lube, bushings, spacers, clamps.

Dont forget that the actual bar size has less to do with stiffness than the alloy, wall thickness, design of the bar.

Check their website for more info.

dr

I got one like this...

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010

worked perfect, very loud bang when the bolt lets go. Also, make sure the top jaw is fully engaged over the bolt.

I may try and do the job without removing the ball joints though. Seems like you should be able to get enough clearance

with the wheel carriers sliding on the strut but i guess I will find out.

Here are my details:

Porsche GT3 sway bar: $234.39 (sunset porsche)

bushings: $13.59 each

Install time was 1 hour: 16 mm socket , 16mm wrench, Torx 15.

Complexity: 1 - Easy as heck.

I'm using the middle setting because it was the only setting I could geometrically fit because in the unladen configuration where the wheels have not load, the drop links will not fit in the either end setting(holes) and bolt into place. You can only do this when the car is on a ramp. Then again, perhaps you can do it but I just can't figure it out. Regardless, middle setting suits me fine on the street.

The ride is unbelievable or I'm so completely phyched that it's all in my head. I can't explain it but the car feels like it's on rails. Now because the front and rears are not matching, the car feels strange especially when going over bumps on one side where you have the soft front and the hard rear.

Anyway, I ordered the front GT3 bars ($225) today so in about 1 month, I'll verify the level of difficulty. (drain coolant lines or not)

I am installing the GMG WC anti roll bars tomorrow. The GMG bars are developed from their racing program and its what the guys with GT3's and GT2's put on their cars when they get rid of their stock bars.

Anyway going to follow this DIY, hope it works out in time for my auto-x sunday. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=574012&referrerid=10748

Adding a sway bar to the front requires

draining and removing the front radiator hoses.

Most mechanics will tell you it is a pain.

I am sure the stock drop links would work, but the stock ones

are made real small and I would not trust them

to hold up to a stiffer sway bar.

Paul

This is flat out untrue.

You have to drop but not remove the front subframe to gain clearance and then carefully remove the swaybar.

No coolant hoses need to be detached or disturbed. Just takes a bit of care to prevent any damage.

The compensating plates capture the soft spring mount and come in .5mm and 4mm thickness.

I have seen black plates and white plates.

Does anyone know which color goes with which thickness? Trying to figure out which ones are on my car.

look into "Easy Care". I have their warranty on my 06 S Carrera. Bumper to bumper ($100 deductable) for 4 years 60k. Think I paid $2750 for it. Easy Care has a good reputation with my dealer and my indie shops. Best of all their adjusters know Porsches well. Make sure you talk to your dealer about "Auto protection" and see if they have worked with them. I personally have never heard of them. I did a lot of research on extended warranty companies. Be very careful who you deal with.

Good luck

I agree, went with EasyCare for my 2006 Carrera S with 12k miles. They didnt even require an inspection because of the low miles and verified service history. So far have not had to use them. Went with the $100 deductable, seemed like the best value.

Picked EasyCare because they cover airbag systems of which this car has 6, and they include wheel/tire damage.

My dealer sold Fidelity but they dont cover airbags and I heard some bad stories about them.

Its still not the same as the factory warranty but is worthwhile on a car this complex.

Trying to find a DIY for front sway bar install.

Looks like you have to drop the sub frame and may or may not have to DC the coolant lines.

Any help is appreciated.

Also, where can i find a pdf version of the workshop manual?

Have a set of these strut mounts from GT3 that I would like to mount on my 2006 C2S.

The opening on the spherical bearing is 18mm.

So trying to figure out if my PASM strut will fit these before I disassemble the suspension.

Thanks

dr

Is it possible to change the rear window seal from the outside without removing the window?

Thanks,

dr

Only have the problem when the gearbox is cold. Try de-clutching and a complete stop until she warms up.

They are crazy loud.

Almost everyone that tries them ends up getting rid of them after a while.

The main thing is the mind numbing resonance in the cabin. I used to wear ear plugs on my way to Sebring or Homestead and i still got a headache.

But the car does sound awesome. Dont know about sound laws in PA.

Just get this one in PA, its even grey.

sport wheel

Hi RFM - how can I tell when the new IMS was released? is there a chassis/engine range to look out for?

New IMS design started with MY06 in the US market.

Hi, Is 997 3.6 air intake the same as 997 3.8?

and how much is retail for these?

I believe they are identical save for the nameplate badge.

I bought a used one for $50 to "play" with. Have some ideas for modding it.

dr

does anyone know for sure at what RPM and or speed the flap is opened?

from the sound of it i would say after 5000 rpm but wanted to find out for sure

thanks,

dr

so would you be comfortable with a 2005 C2S if it carried the new CPO?

Have been doing some research on this myself. The 996/ 986 engine was released with a new design of bottom end to the previous 993 units. As part of the new design the intermediate shaft was supported by a revised bearing design and used fewer bearing supports. The intermediate shaft is in the heart of the engine block and transfers drive from the crank to the camshafts. During the life of the 986/996 , there were no fewer than 5 different designs of the intermediate shaft and one revision of the support / housing. On to the 987/997 , which used the same design of intermediate shaft and bearing as the outgoing 986/996 engines. The 986 (boxster ) and 996 (911) engines suffered from intermediate shaft failures and also RMS leaks . The RMS seal is separate from the Intermediate shaft problem and less significant, as it is a visible oil leak from the engine which can be repaired by fitting a new seal, usually done with the clutch. The RMS seal has been redesigned a number of times also , on both the 986/996 and 997/987, the consensus is it is now a rare problem on a few 987/ 997 cars. Since introduction there have been a number of cases of both 987 (boxster) and 997 (911 carerra and carrera S) with failed engines as a result of broken intermediate shafts or collapsed intermediate shaft bearings. Porsche now have a revised intermediate shaft and bearing/ housing for the 997 , though no mention of it being fitted to any specific model year. This suggests that it may be fitted as of late 2007 or 2008 as standard. Personally I beleive there is an issue with the design of either the bearing or shaft leading to a potential for premature failure. Unfortunately there is no way to predict this failure , though some have seen the intermediate shaft cover seal weep, just before bearing collapse. The intermediate shaft cover and RMS are hidden by the transmission bell housing , so can only be seen with the gearbox and flywheel removed. My advice would be to purchase porsche extended warranty on any 3.2, 3.4 , 3.6 or 3.8 Porsche of 987/997, or 996/986 version. The GT3 and turbo use a different design of engine block from an earlier car , so the issues of intermediate shaft are to my knowledge unheard of. The intermediate shaft if prone to failure will fail at around 30 - 45K miles regardless of how the engine has been serviced or driven. There is no confirmation that every car will fail for this problem , but there do seem to be a number of cars reported all with the same issue.

I understand the IMS and or crank were uprated for 2006 models. Does anyone know the build date for this revision?

The X51 package can only be applied to cars built after 08/05, so maybe that is the date, just want to be sure before purchase.

Thanks,

dr