Foster

That's what I thought when I saw it. The cable actually says MD on it.

I thought maybe I'd somehow missed it the hundreds of times I've been in the

trunk so I double checked. Nope, there is a clear absence of CD/MD changer.

I'm about to add aux in to my cdr220.

It's a 00' with M490. I thought I might already have the aux adapter hanging

back there because a previous owner had installed a Motorola bluetooth

thingy (which I've never used).

When I pulled the head out there was no aux or phone connector so I guess the dork

just spliced it in somewhere. So now I've got to reverse engineer that.

But my real question is, what's the black cable with the round connector on the back of head for?

I've never seen it mentioned and it's not in the manual.

WOW :eek: I was searching for some answers to my own stereo wiring dilemma and I came across this tread.

I don't feel so bad now. :lol:

Some boxsters had a fluctuating idle problem that ended up being software related.

If I opened mine up and it all looked clean then I'd leave it alone.

When I bought the car it had a little over 50k now it's a little over 60k.

Original clutch finally went out. Never used oil and never a drop on the floor.

When I opened it up it was apparent that the seals had leaked at one time, but

the accumulation of clutch dust had 'healed' it.

So I decided to replace all of it except the IMS flange. No way I'm touching that. I don't care if it does leak.

You definitely don't want to replace the RMS with a hammer like on the c-speedracing site.

Not meaning to hi-jack your thread, but....

Is there a way to tell if a MY99 996 has had an engine replaced by looking at the car rather than trying to find out via a dealer? A friend wants to buy one and is stressed about engine failure. Reads too many forums.

I'm not certain but I believe refurbed engines have an additional letter and the end of the serial #

I like watching this guy shift from 6th to 1st and almost losing it about a min in.

I'm planning to do a drivers ed at Sebring soon, but **** it looks rough. :drive:

At least the Thunder hill guy kept his hands on the wheel.

I remember when those Honda Odyssey dune buggy things came out so many people broke there

arms when it rolled over they started putting little leashes on the steering wheel to tie you hands to it.

I'm in the middle of a clutch replacement and 60k service.

The local dealership quoted $2,200 for the 60k service alone.

Everything is disassembled, I'm just waiting on the parts.

I ordered everything in the bell housing including flywheel, plus RMS, case bolts, IMS bolts,

plugs, plug tubes, belt, filters, transmission mount, overpriced Porsche grease, and the RMS installation tool.

It came to a little over $1,800. I figure I can sell the RMS tool and get a little back.

I also bought a few tools, a floor jack, a transmission jack, four jack stands, and that was around $400.

The only snag I've hit so far is the transmission mount. It's pressed in. I couldn't get the gbox out from under

the car while it was on the jack. I thought I'd cut out the old mount out and try to McGyver the new one in with C-Clamps.

But It's in there quite snug, so I surrendered and wrestled the trans off the jack and slid it out.

So far It's been pretty straight forward.

I'm not really qualified to put up a DIY on this but I can take pics of what ever you want while I have it apart.

:eek: I think my shorts would've been a total loss!

Glad you weren't hurt!

Do your wheels have spacers? How thick? Did you use them when you put on the spare?

Behind the back seats there are tubes attached to the underbody with plastic clips.

If the clips are broken the tubes may be hitting one another when you go over bumps.

There's also the plastic panels. The fasteners are plastic and break easily. The panel may be loose.

The only other thing I can think of is the transmission support brakets are loose. That would be bad. Have that looked at.

Yes and no.

If you jack the car up and get your face right up to it and fold back the

soft rubber gasket things you can see most of it. If it's completely broken

you'd be able to see it.

Notice the picture of the broken one with the screw driver. In order to say for

certain that it's not split you'd probably need to do that on both sides.

The drivers side of mine looks fine, but if you pry on the passenger side you can

see the front side is split nearly all the way through.

The #s on mine are;

On one side

986=996

133 135

98637505700

On the other side

99637505505

Jeff at Sunset was unable to find the part # in the catalog and didn't have one in stock to look at.

He ordered 99637505505 and offered to send me the specs and pics before he ships it to me just in case.

Here's my real problem. I didn't anticipate needing to replace this when I dropped the transmission.

So I didn't jack the car up high enough to get the gbox out from under the car. So I'm going to have to lift it

off the jack while under the car, slide it out, cart it to a shop, have them press in the mount, then lift it back on the

jack while under the car, and try to realign everything.

Did I mention I have noone around I feel comfortable asking to help me with this? I've disassembled myself into a corner.

My other option is to roam arount Home Depot and try to build some kind of tool to pull the mount in while under the car.

Or use my big metric hammer, and hope I don't destroy it.

Anyone ever replace one of these without using a press? :help:

You'll need the rear lid open to remove the bumper. Did you get the lids open?

Here's some towing info from AAA

http://partner.aaa.biz/portal/binary/com.e...Porsche_ERS.pdf

Might be worth looking at the ground cables. Easy to rule out.

On my 00' there is a cable from the engine to the frame, it's kind of between the rear passenger tire and the muffler. Near the coil.

You are in a pickle. :blink:

Do you have the tow hook or is it in the trunk and you can't get it out?

The hole for the hook in the rear is under the license plate.

If the bumper has no hole you could cut one. It'll be covered up anyway.

OOPS. Sorry. I've owned a 02 and a 00. I get them confused.

If the rear lid is open you can jump it there.

I know there is an emergency cable for both front and rear, but I've never had to use them.

I THINK the front is behind the passenger side wheel well.

I have an 00. I think it would be alot easier and safer to raise the gas pedal.

The gas pedal is just a molded peice of plastic.

I have mine all apart on the kitchen table right now to lube it and take out the slop.

You can remove just the pedal without any tools.

On the back down by the "hinge" (flexable peice of plastic :rolleyes: ) there's two tabs that click it in.

Just push on those a lift up. Then pop the the rod out of the ball joint. Some needle nose pliers might help there.

Im going to put up some pictures and a DIY later.

The easiest way to do what you want would be use those billet add on pedals, and use a spacer between the plastic and

aluminun on the gas pedal.

You could also go to a machine shop and have them cut out a pedal in what ever shape you want.

Thanks for the idea, I may do that myself! :lol:

Emergency unlocking of the luggage

compartment lid and engine

compartment lid

If the battery is discharged, the lids can be

opened onlywiththe aid of a donor battery.

Unlocking lids

1. Use the key to unlock the vehicle at the door

lock.

Leave the key in the door lock.

2. Remove plastic cover over the fuse box.

3. Pull out positive terminal A in the fuse box.

4. Use a jumpercable to connect the positive

terminal of the donor battery with positive

terminal A in the fuse box.

Note

If the vehicle was locked, the alarm horn will

sound when the negative cable is connected.

5. Use the second jumper cable to connect the

negative terminal of the donor battery with

latch striker B.

6. Switch the alarm system off by locking and

unlocking at the door lock.

7. Unlock the engine compartment lid or luggage

compartment lid with the switch.

8. Disconnect the negative cable first, then the

positive cable.

9. Push positive terminal A into the fuse box

and push on the plastic fuse box cover.

Note

Theenginecannotbe started with this method.

Please observe the chapter "Emergency Starting

with Jumper Cables" for this purpose

How much do your new mounts sag? Where are you measureing?

I'm trying to decide if mine need replaced.

My transmission mount is split so I figure the engine mounts may be shot as well.

Are you sure it's not the accelerator pedal? Mine is getting a little sticky, and it does something similar once in awhile. Mine only sticks for 1-2 seconds though.

I'm going to try to rebuild mine soon, but I've been told you really should just replace it.

I was thinking this was it, but the pic must be in another thread.

http://www.webbspot.com/porsche/index.html

After thinking about it, and looking at mine. I'm not sure it's even possible to drop the engine without at least moving transmission forward.

When you seperate them you need to move them apart 3-6 inches to clear the flywheel and pressure plate.

You may even need to remove the flywheel and pressure plate to clear the cross member.

I don't think you could move the engine back that far. And really all you have to do extra to drop the trans is;

Pop off the shift cables.

Take 2 bolts off slave cylinder

4 plastic nuts of under panel.

2 bolts out of trans mount.

6 bolts out of bracket.

It sounds like alot but they are all easy to reach except the the slave bolts.

Now that I've done it once I could probably do it again in an hour.

You might need another jack, but the gbox isn't heavy. I could probably lift it up over my head.

I would seperate them and then drop both individually.

I highly recomend a 2 foot extension and universal for the upper trans to engine bolts. Put it up over the top of the trans and the bolts come right out.

There is a link to some pics of an engine sitting on a low jack under the rear bumper of a 996. I think it had the gbox attached. It didn't look very high. The car was on normal jackstands at the rear jack points.

The topic was something about release levers. I'll see if I can find it.

Make sure you take into account how low your jack will go.

I have my car up on stands right now to change the clutch. I think I had 23" of clearance below the trans, buy my trans jack sits 8" min. So there was no way to get it out from under the car with out taking it off the jack. I just left it under the car and rolled it back far enough to work.

my00 c2 cab

I'm about to drop the gbox for a clutch replacement. (if I can ever break loose those two top bolts...sheesh)

When I removed the slave cylinder from the trans I noticed there is alot of lateral play at the tip of the control rod.

If I hold the cylinder in my hand and wiggle the tip back and forth it moves like a 1/2 inch or more.

Is that normal?

The cylinder is # 99611223706 which I believe is the most recent revision.

The pedal has always felt kind of heavy and the engagment high in the travel, but I don't have anything to compare it to.

It's always been pretty smooth, but if you depress the pedal very slowly and you really concentrate you can feel little 'notches' spaced equally through the travel.

I always assumed it was the boost spring slightly rubbing.

I didn't try to press the piston in or press the pedal because the manual says somthing like;

ACHTUNG depressing the pedal while slave is removed is strictly verboten, serious injury or death from flying piston!

LOL, what an embarressing way to die.

I just replaced my regulator for the same reason.

When you lift the handle and the window does nothing and makes no noise, then it's probably a switch.

If it makes a little noise and the window jiggles a little but doesn't go down, then it's probably the regulator.

Suncoast in Sarasota has window regulators online for $180 but if you go there in person they will try to charge you full retail which is like $250.

When I told the parts guy it would be cheaper for me to order it from thier website and have it shipped even though I only live 30 minutes away, he looked at the site and said 'wow your right' and gave it to me for $190.

Replacing the regulator isn't that complicated, and there are good instructions online, but it is kind of time consuming. $450 isn't a bad price. If you do it yourself make sure you remove the little stop for the boxter before you put it in. A set of plastic interior tools is worth the $15 but not necesary.

The interior door handle switch is replaced by removing the door panel and it just plugs in, I'm not sure about the other 2, you may need to remove the latch or door handle.

What model radio? Where did you get the cable?

I could be reading it wrong, but I'm pretty sure your clutch is slipping.