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m60kaf
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Hmmm nothing on my new one - suspect I've been sold a dud Is my experience of the poor performance - revs rise pretty slowly - a symptom of a failing MAF?
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There isnt actually a part number on the new sensor - though I did notice that on the new one there is like some kind of bead thermister (blue) in the top air path that isnt on the old one. Do you think my -what i consider- to be poor performance and slow responce on my original MAF sounds like failure or just cos its the right one I have to confess I did get it off ebay :*)
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I changed my MAF due to a number of CAT and Fueling errors and laclustre performance - revs slow to rise. I then read about the AOS and discovered mine had gone and was leaking and relaced it The car (2.5) was then VERY fast to drive but idled appauling and errored P1127 P1129 and had dangerous hesitation when pulling away from junctions Put the old MAF back in and noticed perfect idle but the performance has gone again. There are now no errors so presumably my AOS and dirty throttle was causing the very original errors. I also noticed my Durametric says 35kg/hr at idle with the new MAF and 14kg/hr (I beleive I read 14 is about right) So is it likely my original MAF is faulty (slow to respond) and the new one isnt the right type and is calibrated wrongly and I need to source the right one and that will give good idle AND performance Or do I just have to accept with the right MAF a 2.5 aint that much fun - cos with the 'wrong' MAF it was looney at speed Seems quite a common problem people report they change the MAF then get bad idle
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I bought an exhaust tip - a pretty cool one actually - one of the ones with a hook on top and screw hole at bottom. I now realise these are for post facelift. Is it possible to put on pre-facelift ... obviously i will have to grind off the old one but how would i attach it as there is no bottom bracket .... and I am not sure if there is a place to put the top 'hook'. If this is all possible - will it foul the bumper?
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Which version of the MAF did you install, early or late? Regards, Maurice. Same part number but manufactured in 2003
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OK so I changed the AOS - needed doing - leaking from its joints and rubber pipe on bottom shot Anyway - still have the original problems. If I put my old maf on takes forever for the revs to rise when you press accelerator so sure thats failed. With my new MAF on it runs like a rocket and revs like a Porsche - but idles apauling - you rev it it stalls - can drive but pops and bangs at junctions. If I disconnect the MAF it runs fine (fine as in idles OK and drives OKish - but slow response on the throttle as you would expect with no MAF) So am I most probably looking at an air leak after the MAF or a trip to the dealer for some magic programming for the MAF (I've read software updates can fix MAF issues)
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The only old wifes tale I've heard that may work because it works on a lot of Audis and is in the Porche service stuff is Unlock door - turn on ignition - turn off and within 6 seconds press the remotes button. The rest is optimistic rubbish (in my opinion) Fact is if your remotes dont work they probably need to go to Porsche - the amount of Boxsters I looked at where the seller said - ohhh the keys just need resyncing - its dead easy - yeah whatever - prepare to part with cash
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That easy eh :) Its going on mine -I can only guess at what a mess it would make of your legs in an accident Its plain stupid
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Thanks guys Stripped down all the intake piping and no splits But a good smearing of oil in the aos output the j pipe and the connector into the intake and the back side of te TB So I guess this isnt right there should just be air in there? and I need to peoplace the AOS? You certainly have to clean the TB after this problem - very messy!
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My 99 2.5 non egas boxster runs real rough and is sluggish Replaced MAF which seems to have made it a whole lot better However idle is no appauling, +/- 250 rpm and occasional stall and as you come to junctions it can occasionally pop and bang and hesitate although most of the time its fine If I remove the oil filler cap there is suction on the cap - u can hear it woosh - but it is only light take the cap of and the idle is fine Does this point to anything?
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The manual actually says this?
m60kaf replied to stargate823's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Car manufacturers are 'into the law' though - thats why Toyota for example have a specific manual for Germany - only difference - reference to idling I think while we all may 'ignore' the law different countrys frown more upon certain digressions -
Early Boxsters built in Stuttgart
m60kaf replied to El Patrick's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Mines a 99 Stuttgart - and I have to say I'm not that impressed with the paint -
Still struggling with MAF Sensor type issues
m60kaf replied to rprieto's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
did both sensors have the diode like thing on the side . i changed one for the right part number but without the diode thing. ran bad and had the additional error code. soldered the old diode on the connectors on the side and worked perfect. One of the annoying things of porsche ownership is there seems to be so many different parts for one app and porsche just progam it for the difference --- we cant do that -
The manual actually says this?
m60kaf replied to stargate823's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Simple.... It is illegal to idle a car in this way in Germany. -
I had a problem that seems to be very common of the gear shift being very stiff and not going into P or D or poping out of drive Tried fixing the cable took all the dash apart to mess with the shifter. After a lot of messing I found it was the pivot on the metal part that the cable connects to on the gearbox The pivot is on the LHS of the back of the gearbox - the cable from the stick connects to the top of the pivot with a big rubber ring. A little lower down is a bar that connects forward to the box selector Below this is the pivot for this assembly held on by a circlip - Mine had seized pretty much solid and needed serious hammering to get off. What it appears - and why there is limited information on this - is if your roads are salted the pivot rusts - swells and clamps the plastic bushes to the pivot bar seizing. Drill the plastic hole back up with a 10-10.5mm drill - and there you go perfect gear shifting again.