m60kaf

This is where the part number is located. I sell/sold MAFS on eBay for a long time, so we are not ALL bad :)

B

Hmmm nothing on my new one - suspect I've been sold a dud

Is my experience of the poor performance - revs rise pretty slowly - a symptom of a failing MAF?

As far as I can tell, the 986 606 125 01 is only for EGAS cars and doesn't work properly in the cable cars. I have also ran 10-15 of these in cars without any special programming, they run just fine and pass smog in CA.

B

What is the part number on the MAF in the car currently? I have people calling me all the time trying to use the VW/Audi Mafs.. and they do not work.

B

There isnt actually a part number on the new sensor - though I did notice that on the new one there is like some kind of bead thermister (blue) in the top air path that isnt on the old one.

Do you think my -what i consider- to be poor performance and slow responce on my original MAF sounds like failure or just cos its the right one

I have to confess I did get it off ebay :*)

I changed my MAF due to a number of CAT and Fueling errors and laclustre performance - revs slow to rise.

I then read about the AOS and discovered mine had gone and was leaking and relaced it

The car (2.5) was then VERY fast to drive but idled appauling and errored P1127 P1129 and had dangerous hesitation when pulling away from junctions

Put the old MAF back in and noticed perfect idle but the performance has gone again. There are now no errors so presumably my AOS and dirty throttle was causing the very original errors.

I also noticed my Durametric says 35kg/hr at idle with the new MAF and 14kg/hr (I beleive I read 14 is about right)

So is it likely my original MAF is faulty (slow to respond) and the new one isnt the right type and is calibrated wrongly and I need to source the right one and that will give good idle AND performance

Or do I just have to accept with the right MAF a 2.5 aint that much fun - cos with the 'wrong' MAF it was looney at speed

Seems quite a common problem people report they change the MAF then get bad idle

I bought an exhaust tip - a pretty cool one actually - one of the ones with a hook on top and screw hole at bottom.

I now realise these are for post facelift.

Is it possible to put on pre-facelift ... obviously i will have to grind off the old one but how would i attach it as there is no bottom bracket .... and I am not sure if there is a place to put the top 'hook'.

If this is all possible - will it foul the bumper?

OK so I changed the AOS - needed doing - leaking from its joints and rubber pipe on bottom shot

Anyway - still have the original problems.

If I put my old maf on takes forever for the revs to rise when you press accelerator so sure thats failed.

With my new MAF on it runs like a rocket and revs like a Porsche - but idles apauling - you rev it it stalls - can drive but pops and bangs at junctions.

If I disconnect the MAF it runs fine (fine as in idles OK and drives OKish - but slow response on the throttle as you would expect with no MAF)

So am I most probably looking at an air leak after the MAF or a trip to the dealer for some magic programming for the MAF (I've read software updates can fix MAF issues)

Which version of the MAF did you install, early or late?

Regards, Maurice.

Same part number but manufactured in 2003

OK so I changed the AOS - needed doing - leaking from its joints and rubber pipe on bottom shot

Anyway - still have the original problems.

If I put my old maf on takes forever for the revs to rise when you press accelerator so sure thats failed.

With my new MAF on it runs like a rocket and revs like a Porsche - but idles apauling - you rev it it stalls - can drive but pops and bangs at junctions.

If I disconnect the MAF it runs fine (fine as in idles OK and drives OKish - but slow response on the throttle as you would expect with no MAF)

So am I most probably looking at an air leak after the MAF or a trip to the dealer for some magic programming for the MAF (I've read software updates can fix MAF issues)

The only old wifes tale I've heard that may work because it works on a lot of Audis and is in the Porche service stuff is Unlock door - turn on ignition - turn off and within 6 seconds press the remotes button. The rest is optimistic rubbish (in my opinion)

Fact is if your remotes dont work they probably need to go to Porsche - the amount of Boxsters I looked at where the seller said - ohhh the keys just need resyncing - its dead easy - yeah whatever - prepare to part with cash

That easy eh :)

Its going on mine -I can only guess at what a mess it would make of your legs in an accident

Its plain stupid

Thanks guys

Stripped down all the intake piping and no splits

But a good smearing of oil in the aos output the j pipe and the connector into the intake and the back side of te TB

So I guess this isnt right there should just be air in there? and I need to peoplace the AOS?

You certainly have to clean the TB after this problem - very messy!

My 99 2.5 non egas boxster runs real rough and is sluggish

Replaced MAF which seems to have made it a whole lot better

However idle is no appauling, +/- 250 rpm and occasional stall and as you come to junctions it can occasionally pop and bang and hesitate although most of the time its fine

If I remove the oil filler cap there is suction on the cap - u can hear it woosh - but it is only light

take the cap of and the idle is fine

Does this point to anything?

Car manufacturers are 'into the law' though - thats why Toyota for example have a specific manual for Germany - only difference - reference to idling

I think while we all may 'ignore' the law different countrys frown more upon certain digressions

Mines a 99 Stuttgart - and I have to say I'm not that impressed with the paint

did both sensors have the diode like thing on the side . i changed one for the right part number but without the diode thing. ran bad and had the additional error code. soldered the old diode on the connectors on the side and worked perfect.

One of the annoying things of porsche ownership is there seems to be so many different parts for one app and porsche just progam it for the difference --- we cant do that

Simple.... It is illegal to idle a car in this way in Germany.

I had a problem that seems to be very common of the gear shift being very stiff and not going into P or D or poping out of drive

Tried fixing the cable took all the dash apart to mess with the shifter.

After a lot of messing I found it was the pivot on the metal part that the cable connects to on the gearbox

The pivot is on the LHS of the back of the gearbox - the cable from the stick connects to the top of the pivot with a big rubber ring. A little lower down is a bar that connects forward to the box selector

Below this is the pivot for this assembly held on by a circlip - Mine had seized pretty much solid and needed serious hammering to get off.

What it appears - and why there is limited information on this - is if your roads are salted the pivot rusts - swells and clamps the plastic bushes to the pivot bar seizing.

Drill the plastic hole back up with a 10-10.5mm drill - and there you go perfect gear shifting again.

I removed mine and the airbag light came on

Porsche need to de-activate the buckle

I just measured the resistance accross the buckle and soldered a resistor accross the connector

I have a problem exactly like this and replaced the coil pack on 6

Now EVERYTIME I reset the ECU and drive from cold it does what you describe and comes up missfire on 6

I get the engine warm - reset again and drive and the problem never comes back

I suspect 6 is more prone to missfire when there are other issues

For a long term fix I'm looking at MAF cleaing or a possible oxygen sensor issue as i reset because it complains about oxygen sensor issues.

Now iirc I only see the oxygen sensor issues on Durametric - and ordinary ODBCII only shows 6 missfire code.

I also wonder if I am not following the reset proceedure which I beleive involves turning on the ignition for a minute without starting and turning it off again before starting the car

I am not sure what you mean about "meaningless codes". They are Porsche fault codes.

Those are common (but not usually fatal faults). Have you tried clearing them and then see if they come back?

By meaningless I mean knowing I have a 59 is pretty pointless to me - if I knew 59 meant the limit switch had failed on the pass door or trunk i could do something about it - if i still have to take it to porsche to truly know what a 59 is i could of saved $250

how do I actually clear the codes - the durametric is greyed out for the 986

I did have the ignition switch problem so it may all be to do with that - the alarms seemed a lot livelier after I fixed that

I got a Durametric today and am slightly disapointed that the codes are somewhat meaningless - but thought the logging and option to turn off cylinders for diagnosis well cool :)

Anyway I had loads of engine codes but suspect the car hasnt been plugged into porsche diags for years so have cleared them and see how I go

I have the following alarm errors though if anyone could be kind enough to help - UK RHD, 1999 2.5 Boxster Tip

46 Control locking Syncronisation

Status: Not Present

3 times

59 Central Locking limit position

Secure not reached

Status: Not Present

30 times

60 Central locking limit position

Lock not reached

Status: Not Present

21 times

for reference it is probably about 30 locks since I reconnected the battery at weekend. the remotes dont work and how do you actually reset alarm codes ? is it a battery/ fuse pull

(Incidentally I did scan for codes on the forum but didnt see anything relevant to me) and no water or corrosion on box

Child Seat bar and buckle under seat - is it standard on a 1999 boxster - or an option

I want to remove it - a bit rattly - but think the car needs programming to say its removed

That is odd, as I have remote issues as well( taking car in tomorrow), however I can still access my trunks fine.

Sounds like a remote issue and an alarm problem. You will need to run the Porsche diagnostics to see what's amiss.

one better im getting one of those durametric things - expecting it tommorow :)

Do you do anything special when u unlock it?

My remotes dont work at the moment so i have to use the key -

not too much of a problem but when i open the door the trunk and hood handles dont work

I have to turn ignition on - get in close door, operate central locking - unclock central locking, open the door and the hood/trunk now opens

there must be an easier way to put my bag in the trunk with the key without remote ?

I have an old Traffic Pro still in a box that I never put in. I think this was replaced by the high speed version. My old version uses a 5 digit code, and it looks like yours as well.

Problem is the decoder is not accurate, and so old by now that it may be very inaccurate. But give it a try.

If your serial number ends in 7009 then the decoder says the code is 71261.

71261 didnt work im afraid - thanks anyway

BUMP: think i might of got lost in the guy whose codes dont work

Do you have codes for European Boxsters?

Type: Traffic Pro High Speed

Model BE 7820

Serial 45047009

Thanks :)

Try 1261

or

1259

Thanks but it seems to want a 5 digit code

It will only accept digits 1-7 too there is no 8 9 or 0

BUMP: think i might of got lost in the guy whose codes dont work

Do you have codes for European Boxsters?

Type: Traffic Pro High Speed

Model BE 7820

Serial 45047009

Thanks :)