rprieto

My 02 S has removable Tubes and they leaked. I replaced Plugs, Tubes, and O-Rings at approx 90K miles.

I would NOT touch a thing if they don't leak. Only 33K miles? WOW!

Yes, definitely a low mileage car, don't get much driving time up here in Canada :)

Maybe I should take a peek before ordering parts, I haven't seen any oil on the ground but I guess that doesn't mean it's not leaking.

One more question - if I do decide to do them do I need to spend $50~ on the Porsche grease or can I use just about anything to grease the o-rings?

Thanks

I DID purchase the Porsche grease and I used so little of it. I don't remember spending that much $$ though. Contact Sunset Imports at the top of this (Renntech) link. You cannot beat their prices!

My 02 S has removable Tubes and they leaked. I replaced Plugs, Tubes, and O-Rings at approx 90K miles.

I would NOT touch a thing if they don't leak. Only 33K miles? WOW!

Thanks for your reply.

During the day (<10 miles driven) my ABS light went out to a normal condition.

Later in the afternoon, after my ABS light went out, ...I was able to manually select gears via Tiptronic switch levers. That one surprised me for sure as I was NOT expecting that to happen at all.

I just had my car Smog Tested (Passed) however I am now unable to manually shift the gears.

Also, the ABS light comes on for a brief moment when I start the car. The mechanic told me the ABS light will disappear completely after driving the car for 28 or so miles. He was unaware about my inability to manually shift.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Thanks!

I agree with Loren. Unless the fuel to the Fuel Pump has been restricted in some manner, the Fuel Pump must be bad. R&R the Fuel Pump.

For about a year I've noticed a strange whistling / kazoo sound that appeared to come from the passenger side mirror area. Just 2 weeks ago my son, sitting in the passenger seat, finally isolated the problem to be around the exterior upper right hand side windshield / rubber trim area. With the top down, and while traveling at a particular freeway speed, when the area is pressed or is shielded with a hand, the noise completely stops.

I haven't tried to eliminate the problem as of yet since I rarely am able to achieve "freeway" speeds due to recent freeway construction.

It looks as if someone may have tried to partially raise the car from underneath at this location. They probably realized it was not such a good thing and lowered the jack or support only to find what you now see.

Has the intake been modified? Oil, used on aftermarket cold intake systems, has been known to contaminate a MAF sensor.

I think you have your light bulbs mixed up. When you turn off the car, your head lights are supposed to turn off. Your parking lights will stay on though - there are wedge/parking lights, and it sounds like one of them is burned out. Its a special size bulb that is easy to replace but can be hard to find. I had to go to the dealership to get it as none of the local auto parts stores had them. I think it is a 5w bulb.

I was thinking just same thing, it must be the parking light and not the headlamp.

Done...what a job that was. Finished up about 2AM (after the time change). Much time wasted safely supporting the rear end. I bought a craftsman 2 1/4 ton floor jack with a 15 inch lift to place the car up on jack stands. Plenty of clearance under the vehicle for me. I had to pay careful attention to very gently lower the engine. My mount was toast!

All the vibration is gone. I had gotten used to all the little noises and vibrations at certain RPMs while driving. I had thought of it to be quite "normal" for the car. However, for the last couple of weeks, I started to hear a slight "clunk" when accelerating followed by a vibration, from the rear, when turning.

Yes, it is all from the bottom, no not the X rib area of the oil pan. If you look forward of the oil pan, and behind the mount there is a place where the the two halves of the engine Car meet. It's about an inch wide, and two inches long, and mine was kind of odd shaped like an L. If you are using a round floor jack, you might put a small block of wood on it to put the strain on it. A X a few inches long should work. If you do have to put the weight on the pan use a large, wide piece of wood to even out the pressure. I had to lower the nose of my engine about an inch and a half. When I had the new mount in, it sat about a half inch higher then when I started.

Got it thanks. Had to take a break but just got back. Just loosened the top engine mount screws with a flat hex wrench. Was pretty tight but used a small cheater bar to elp. I will look for a small block of wood...

Forgot to ask, did you do everything from the bottom? I saw some note that someone did some of the work removing the access panel behind the seats.

There is a double rib where the two halves of the engine cases. This is just aft of where the motor mount goes. I did mine without draining the coolant, did the black plastic pan under the engine and the center tunnel. You can then move the coolant hoses enough to get the mount out. loosened the top two bolts on the engine side, removed the four on the chassis side, then lowered the front of the engine and removed the lower two on the engne side. With the mount loose you can reach in and loosen then remove the two through bolts, and take out the mount in two halves. I installed it in the reverse of that. Chuck

Rib meaning an X pattern ribbed area? I was thinking placing a floor jack around the area just fwd of that since the jack face is a little to large to make direct contact with the ribbed area. Just need to make sure to get the right spot. Thanks Chuck. R.

So I have the Pedro's Garage DIY for reference but the photos are too small to figure this out... There was some other DIY but the link is bad.

Where do I position the jack to support and lower the engine needed to R&R the mount? There is reference to some support piece in front of the oil pan. Exactly where is this?

I have all the parts and the rear up on jackstands as we speak.

Thanks

Can you post a sound clip?

This would be my thought too. I had a 944 that seemed to be possessed. The radio would turn on and off randomly somedays, the keyless entry was iffy, sometimes the gauges would die while driving, and worst of all sometimes the moonroof would unlatch itself...

Did your radio play only oldies? The movie "Christine" comes to mind... B)

There is a DIY to R&R the switch at the following link:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=flicker

If you dare, you can try to clean the switch yourself but you must be careful and have patience:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18801

R.

The problem is most likely the headlight switch. Mine flickered or acted more like a strobe light when you turn it on. Try to do what I did. Pull out the switch to the fog light position, then slam it back in. This ensures a GOOD connection to start the lamp. The contacts get worn or dirty over time. I did this standing up just outside the car and with my right hand/palm. After doing this a couple of times... BAM, my light came on. I am pretty sure your lights will turn on. If so, R&R the switch.

Could this be battery related? At best there may be a loose connection at the battery. Was it recently disconnected? Also, does the starter sound more sluggish when you start it in the AM (cold start) as compared to later in the day? It is possible that the voltage may drop below a certain threshold for the radio to remain operative.

I'm no expert but this is just a thought.

Based on the posted video/audio, I believe I can hear the Secondary Air Pump working. That "whine" is normal at cold start. Sounds like a vacuum cleaner. It goes away after a couple of minutes following start-up (cold).

Loren, maybe you can chime in here as you are more in tune with Porsche data services. But as I understand it, the maintenance history resides on Porsche's servers and is not accessible via any other commercial source. Unless you subscribe to Porsches services this information is not available. And I suspect you have to agree to abide by certain privacy rules to use the data. The only commercially available information I know of is what is maintained by government sources such as DMV etc. This data is sold to secondary sources such as Carfax etc for redistribution at a fee.

R/ GW

I have to agree with GW. Being 2nd owner I asked the servicing dealer for a printout but would not for privacy issues. Dealer offered to view, on screen, service history.

Agree with phillipj, it is most likely the spark plug tubes.

Recent Sunset pricing is: $4.70 per tube plus 2 o-rings (1@ $2.40 and 1@ $1.21).

Might want to R&R the spark plugs while your are there if you are due.

R.

I have a 2000 and it just started happening to me as well. I can hear the motor going, but no fluid coming out.

Ideas would be appreciated.

Mike.

Any solutions for this as of yet? My 99 boxster is now having the same problem. However, it used to intermittently send out fluids at random times when I try to use it, but only for one squirt or two. Now it's not working at all. I would think it's clogged somewhere, but I really have no idea how to access any of the hosing system.

Any ideas? I was thinking about checking the fuse (is there one for it?)

Any help appreciated, thanks.

The most common cause of this failure is simply that the rubber hose slipped off the nipple from the washer fluid tank. It happened in my car a few months ago as well. To fix this issue, turn your steering wheel all the way to the left (to get more access to the rear of the driver's front wheel well liner). You then need to partially remove the rear part of the driver's side front wheel well liner. There are a few plastic nuts and a plastic rivet that you'll need to remove, and then the wheel liner slides out. Once you peel back the wheel liner, you will see that there is a black rubber hose that connects to a nipple on the washer fluid tank. Reconnect this hose to the nipple, and secure it with a small hose clamp (so that you don't have this issue again).

Agree, this is what happened to me. My tank kept running dry and I figured I had a crack. Filled it up but I found fluid far from the tank. Someone must have done some maintenance and forgot to connect the hoses in 2 spots.

Finally received the parts from Sunset, belt included.

After looking over instructions to R&R the pump, I found that the bolts need to be torqued to 7 foot-pounds. The smallest torque wrench I can find (Auto-zone) only goes down to 120 "inch pounds" which is equivalent to 10 foot pounds. Is 7 for real? That is barely snug I figure.

I see others have had problems removing the bolt to the far right. Was a universal joint used as is called out for in the instructions?

Here are 2 pumps that were replaced because they were leaking. I also think that is what is going on. These pumps seem to go out after 65K miles. The picture was taken at an independent shop owned by Marvin. I think Marvin has been trying a non Porsche branded pump made by Laso with a plastic impeller because so many of the factory pumps go bad.

You don't want that water pump to take your engine with it -- replace it now!

Mike

'00S rebuild due to water pump @ 33.5K miles.

Thanks, I am convinced. Thank God I stopped driving it after I figured it was coolant fluid. I originally thought it was oil, dirty at first, till I saw that the color was green. Yes, the original coolant is still in there.

So, how does a bad water pump ruin the engine? Overtemp?

Got to call Jeff at Sunset so why am I typing this message

R.