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Everything posted by rprieto

  1. I know this is an old post but I agree with smygolf. The bypass should have gone between chamber 1 and 2. The only change that I can imagine would be in the acoustic tone. I admit... it LOOKS nice... but... I don't see anything being bypassed. I am interested in how you cleaned the exhaust up. SLICK!
  2. 2002... was in the tag line. Got it off finally. That connection is just very, very snug. The plastic buttons were depressed enough. I just pushed down the connector after I felt it budge a bit. What a pain. Everything works after a 10 mile test drive. I put 1/2 tank of gas in and it seems to register properly. I will fill it up in a few days and drive it till it goes red to make sure everything registers properly. Hoping I don't need it recalibrated. BTW I was able to use a loaner OEM Fuel Pump Replacement Kit PN 27160 I got from Autozone. Made removing and replacing the large ring quite easy and, in the end, won't cost me anything after I return it.
  3. I'm having great difficulty removing the vertical fuel line, within the tank, that connects to the fuel sending unit. Is there a trick or a tool that I may need? Please advise.
  4. I found a crack in the bottom side of my vacuum reservoir. I used a MityVac hand vacuum pump with gauge to fault isolate to this $28 part, PN 99311014003. That has to be the LEAST expensive thing I've ever purchased direct from the dealer. Last night the Secondary Air Test Readiness FINALLY set for me. I drove several drive cycles mentioned above and everything BUT Secondary Air got set. However, I remembered something. Prior to R&R of the vacuum reservoir, I never got a P0410 and P1411 CEL unless I started and immediately drove my car within the first 2 min and 10 seconds. Figuring I may have had yet another issue, I started and drove it immediately.... I kept the car within the 720 - 2800 rpm range for that ~2 min duration while exiting a parking lot. Shortly thereafter... I verified the readiness flag for Secondary Air was READY! "Thank you JESUS!" So, if you are having problems... try driving it immediately at cold start within the 720 to 2800 rpm range. I just PASSED smog this morning. Funny to watch the tech first open the rear, then the front trunk. He looked at me perplexed asking..... "where's the engine?" I had to remove the engine access lid for him to visually see the "air pump" (his words). I gave him a quick overview of how the system works and what I had replaced. TOO FUNNY!
  5. Fuel Sending Unit Cracked... again! First occurred after 7 years in 2009. I just confirmed my Fuel Sender is cracked again and in EXACTLY the SAME PLACE. What is surprising is this is almost 7 years since I had the first one replaced. This time I will go DIY.... anyone live near Corona, CA? :-) Sunset seems to have the best price today at $232.33 plus tax and shipping. http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe-porsche/99662083202
  6. I am in full agreement with JFP. Sunset Porsche is the way to go for sure. I went with another popular company and purchased front pads made by the same OEM MFG. However, they were NOT OEM pads but had the same form, fit, and function. I find the brake dust, on the replaced pads, is noticeably darker and therefore looks dirtier. Almost like the dark brake dust you might see on a BMW's rim. I find myself having to wipe my rims down periodically to keep them clean looking. For brakes, OEM is the way to go.
  7. Drive it immediately after a cold start. In your case, drive it BEFORE 2m15s. If all is will, it will be set. BTW: The system will always check this upon cold start. MOST of the time I let my car idle for a couple of mins in the AM and PM. As such, the Secondary Air Test is rarely set.
  8. Fairly certain you have a micro-switch problem mentioned by crwarren11 above. I have the same issue but mine shows up using Durametric.
  9. Two things... 1. I replaced my AOS this past weekend after getting a P1128 and P1130 codes thrown. Quick check is by trying to remove the oil cap with engine in idle. A bad AOS will make it difficult to remove. I had much difficulty removing mine when it failed while idling. Everything works great now. I've you lived nearby... I would help. 2. Regarding your Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete... It will never set the complete flag if you DON'T drive it within the first 90-120 seconds after a cold start. Once that Secondary Air Pump shuts down after the cold start.... it won't set. So... DRIVE it after you start it... then it will set.... no big deal. I too live in California.... if you are looking to smog it...for your year... you can pass smog if the evaporative system is not ready. https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/Smog_Check_OBD_Reference_Guide.pdf Cold start, DRIVE it... then check the readiness monitor.
  10. To me it sounds like a microswitch or regulator within the passenger door. Search within renntech or look at the Pelican links below. I am investigating my window not always rolling down once the door opens. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm
  11. Symptoms are similar to what I saw YEARS ago in an old Porsche immediately after an oil change. The pressure gauge was HIGHER than what I was used to seeing. Only until I replaced the filter did I see a NORMAL oil pressure. Something must have clogged the filter up so you may want to try it.... does not cost that much anyways. Make sure it is an OEM filter.
  12. I was wondering if I should replace my Outer Gasket Door Seal on the Drivers Side. PN 996-537-085-07-OEM (I think) When temps are high, the seal often sticks to the window. What is the cause? Does it wear at the window? Is there an easy fix? Seems wax or the like is a Band-Aid. Today my window went off track so I will need to remove the door panel and re-attach.
  13. I have the EXACT same problem! The "shrill" or high pitched noise (kazoo-like but more irritating) happens at HIGHER speeds. Mine is on the passenger side and . With the top down and @ speed, my son (sitting in the passenger seat) was able to confirm the location of the vibration, at the top of the windshield where it meets the body. He simply pressed down on the rubber portion and the noise stopped. I've not FIXED it yet but I was thinking of laying down a thin layer of clear silicon adhesive or something under that area. Since the freeway I seem to live on is more a "parking lot", I rarely am able to move at those speeds so I am not bothered by it often enough.
  14. I've noticed that when the brakes are worn, as mine were recently, the brake fluid level was near the low limit.
  15. I've a 45-60 min trip to and from work and noticed that, at the end of that trip if I am hard on the accelerator, I get some smoke at the next start-up. I've learned to tone it down a bit the last few miles of my trip. Also, a friend of min told me he started seeing smoke upon morning start-up. His was due to a recent move. His new temporary parking spot, since boxes filled the garage, had a slant or angle from left to right. Problem was solved after he moved the car to a level spot.
  16. I believe you are right. It will just happen again. I believe the material that presses against the outside window has deteriorated. Thanks for the suggestion!
  17. Wow!... ZERO replies. I figured it out. I should have taken a photo. If you back the screw too much, as I did, the clamshell clamp will dislodge. With the window up, I had to reach my hand way up in the panel to reattach and realign the back end. I pulled the back portion all the way out first to have a look-see, tilt it back slightly and lift up to remove. The rubber pad, used to protect the window, got slightly twisted in mine. I had to reset it properly in the clamp, easy to do. I replaced the back end of the clamp and, you need to hold this in place w/one hand while you set the scew with the other hand.
  18. Had to reset my window w/battery disconnect... Can't seem to find my paperwork. If you please: CR-220 type: 4362 ser: 15000053 Thanks in advance.
  19. One recent hot day caused the exterior rubber outside the Drivers window to stick. This caused the front clamp to lose it's grip and came undone while lowering the window. I have the panel apart but the Torx screw simply spins and I am unable to tighten it against the window. Is something missing? The rear one is intact and has something black on the other side of the screw. But I don't see anything of the sort at the front. Any advice? Thanks!
  20. It might, quite simply, be a bad motor mount. I assume the bang you hear sounds like someone hitting your vehicle from underneath in the rear. Mine was more like a loud thud before replacement.
  21. Take a look at this link and in particular, the photos. http://pedrosboard.com/read.php?7,2906,3757
  22. Something is certainly going on with the catalytic converter but it may be caused by something else. For example, I received a bad “new” MAF sensor some time ago. It smelled foul soon after it was replaced. However, when I unplugged the sensor the smell went away on my 986. I assume you have don’t have a CEL but you might want to check if one is "pending" which was the case with my vehicle.
  23. So I have just completed replacing the Transmission Oil and filter. I also changed the oil and I was expecting a similar quantity drain 8-9 qts. However, I only saw about 4 quarts of ATF drain. I have Bentley Manual and another manual and both indicate I am expected to replace ~ 9.5 qts of transmission oil. I bought 8 qts as I've read some see less. I was only able to put in just under 4 quarts. Did I miss a step?
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