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acadian_dad

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Everything posted by acadian_dad

  1. Did you ever any info on this ? I was wondering same thing. Also wondering how is the "base" audio system in the 981 boxster - I see little point in having an "audiophile" system in a top-down car ... but would be nice that it wasn't completely useless.
  2. Not a huge fan of the new "sport seats" on the 981 - wondering if the seat rail mounting & airbag connectors, etc. are common with older gen (987, 997, etc.) seats making for a simpler DIY to swap ?
  3. I'm kind of struggling with this myself. I have a '05 997 C2S - with DVD Nav and CDC ... I peeled all the plastic out of the boot, hooked up the fibers, power, etc. but now I am struggling a little how to route the wiring back to the glove box or console (where I'd prefer to put the iPod) and more to the point to get the microphone wire for the BTA1500 (bluetooth add-on) into the cabin ... If I mount the Dension box itself right on top of the nav unit, I'm struggling with where to feed the wires first into the area near the battery ... from there I can see a rubber grommet in the main firewall right behind the battery - so I suppose that's how I get access to the main cabin ... starting to think putting it behind the PCM might be the smarter idea afterall ...
  4. Porsche Planet website has a DIY where they show removal of all the trim in the front of a Cayman to get to the CDC ... - I think it was actually for a DVD nav install - but its the exact same area. http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/showproduc...ct=99&cat=5 This same guy Kman-s has a GW500 install article on the same website - its very good.
  5. Loren - just to clarify - does any crack > 7 mm long put the rotor past service limit or is it just for > 7 mm connected to edge of rotor ? I used to think it was if the crack extended from one hole to another hole but I can see that would not really be possible the way the holes are offset ...
  6. Thanks for the idea Loren. Actually I've only been using commercial CDs which I've tested and all work fine in the single CD player in the PCM head. Have also tried a completely empty magazine.
  7. I just got a new to me '05 C2S Cab with PCM and Bose sound. The CD changer in the boot is acting up. When I ejected the cassette for the CD's it came out fine. Now whenever I put it back in (and yes I do think I putting it in with the correct orientation) it goes in easily and latches in place, then the system immediately clicks and whirs and spits out the cassette again. Its almost as if the EJECT button is pushed permanently (mechanically it isn't but maybe the switch is broken ?). I've tried using both a full and an empty cassette, with the PCM system on/off, etc. etc. etc all to no joy ... is there something stupid I'm not thinking of ? Thought I'd see if anyone on the forum has had similar issues before having this looked at by the local shop. Whoops - made a typo in the thread topic - its a "CDC-4" changer ... not "CDR-4" ... if that makes any sense/difference.
  8. I'm thinking about switching to using dedicated track pads for DE's and street pads for daily driving. I haven't changed the pads yet so my question may have an obvious answer once I get to it but thought I would ask ahead of time anyway. When I go to remove the street pads (currently around 50%), will it be possible to pull them out while leaving the dampeners stuck to the back of the pads ? That is, will there be enough clearance to get the dampeners out of the pistons and out of the caliper without detaching them from the pads ? That is, without removing the caliper in which case I assume there would be plenty of room. Is there any issue (other than noise) with using track pads without any dampeners ? The car is a 2006 Boxster-S and am planning to put Pagid Yellows on for the track. The street pads I have right now are Porsche branded made by Textar.
  9. Depends if you are looking for street pads or track pads ... I believe that Textar and Pagid both are manufacturers for Porsche branded pads - I think the replacement pads on my 2006 987-S are Textar right now. Pagid seems to be very popular with my local track crowd. This website shows a few different options for different Porsche models including Boxster-S - http://www.livermoreperformance.com/porsche_brake_pads.html
  10. So ... measured my rotors today and got 27.3 mm on the fronts and 23.5 mm on the backs ... this after ~20,000 km (12,500 miles) with OEM pads including quite a few DE's. So that seems to make sense with 28 mm / 24 mm starting dimensions. We'll see how they do when I cut over to Pagid Yellows for the track days ... :D
  11. Too true ... I have the set from Porschelibrarian ... but it is missing chapter 461000 :( Which contains the technical details for the rotors.
  12. I think the link you meant was http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm - wow that's a nice resource - thanks !
  13. My 987 service manual refers to checking rotors against the wear limit specifications in chapter 461000 "Technical Data / Brake wear limit" - but this chapter appears to be missing from my copy of the service manual ... I found a reference on Trygve Isaacson's excellent write up on Boxster brakes that the fronts (P/N 996-351-405-01 / 996-351-406-01 ) are 28 mm new / 26 mm service limit and the rears (P/N - 987-352-403-00) are 24 mm new / 22 mm service limit - but I have not been able to find any official Porsche data. Can anyone confirm Trygve's numbers or suggest where I should look ? The car is a 2006 Boxster-S, standard (not PCCB) brakes. Thanks in advance
  14. Now that's a teaser if there ever was one ... without spending $14, what were the high-level (non-copyright-violating) conclusions ?
  15. Technically speaking - the Fluor part just means it is a fluorinated polymer ... eg. the polymer incorporates fluorine ... which is a little generic ... Teflon (PTFE) would be a type of fluorinated polymer but its not the only one. I suspect that most fluorinated polymers have similar properties in terms of creating a surface with high surface tension for water - eg. water beads up - to prevent the fabric from wetting. Basically the spray is like 3M Scotchguard. The polymer is in a solvent carrier of some sort and certainly smells. I did mine this summer (outside) and the odor dissipated in a day or so. It will probably take longer if the weather is humid or cooler ...
  16. I'd seen this post on PCA tech forum as well ... but it seems to me that what is critical is that the front to rear RATIO of circumferences (or diameter - same thing basically) is consistent within this error bound (lets just assume we aren't being silly and skewing left to right ...). Its by measuring relative rates of change of the wheel rotational velocity (ABS sensors) that the ABS/PSM ECU would get its input. Eg. reducing to the ridiculous, one could in theory run with 20% errors as long as front and back errors were matched ... right ? I noticed that most of the R-compound sizes people are running with are about 1-2% off the OEM specs. This worried me at first but seems at least within this 1-2% range, people are not seeing issues. Dave
  17. Minor correction - at least according to the 2005_987_Technik doc from PAG (available on this site somewhere ... ;) ) - both the base and -S versions of the 987 should use - 235/40 ZR 18 and 265/40 ZR 18. The 225/40-18 you have in front was an optional size for the 986 instead - and interestingly the matching setup in the back was 265/35-18 (what you ordered) ... So your full set of tires will now be a proper match for a 986 ... but not a 987. Gut feel is that it will be OK - but why not run with factory specs ? A comment in the 987 Technik document says
  18. Thanks for the thoughts. I'd love to keep the factory sizes, but they are not available on the R-comps and I just want to ensure that if I go this route, I won't have any ABS / PSM surprises. The issue you mentioned about oil starvation is not something I had heard about on this car. Can you provide any links to more info on that ?
  19. Remember that snow well - I drove my car to Boyd's vehicle storage in the middle of it ... There's no specific Boxster club I am aware of, however there is the Porsche Club of America (PCA) - Rennsport Region which you could join. They run DE's primarily at Calabogie (CMP) and Tremblant (LCMT) as well as Ottawa area coffee runs pretty much each month of the summer. There is a monthly dinner at Summerhays Grill on the 1st Tuesday of every month (during winter as well). There are also many social events in Montreal and Quebec. Its a great group of Porsche lovers. Checkout the PCA Rennsport Region website at http://www.rennsport.ca
  20. I like all the stuff that gregtachyon lists ... all make sense. Peronally, I don't like the idea of lifting the car - from my perspective, suspension is much more expensive than rubber. I do over inflate (50+ psi) for storage. I've stored my car in previous years quite a long way from my house so it didn't get moved all winter ... Did not have flat spot problems. This year will be using a location closer to Stittsville and may make the effort. The tirecradles seem like a great idea. In the past I filled the tank with Sunoco 94 but am hearing people concerned about ethanol lately so may rethink that this year. Did not use any stabilizer and car started fine in the spring. I purchased a Porsche smart charger so didn't worry about the battery stuff - it worked fine to maintain the charge. This year I'll do the oil change as well before storage :) Where are you planning to store the car VRsyncro ?
  21. I had a discussion with local dealership in Ottawa - should I change oil in fall prior to storage - or - in spring prior to the new driving season ??? They recommended spring so any debris could work its way to the oil pan ... hmmm :unsure: Its gonna get pretty mixed up in the process of driving the car to the dealer for service / heating up the engine to change the oil warm ... Seems to me with the DE miles I've put on, etc. that there could be lots of contaminants in the oil by the end of a season and better to change in the fall ... There's probably lots of opinions on this on the forums, but wondering Loren, what the "official" line would be ? thanks
  22. I assume that since PSM, ABS, etc. look at relative rate of rotation of front and back wheels there must be a tolerance in the matching of front to rear tire circumferences. Eg. my Boxster-S has the OEM 235/40-18 on front and 265/40-18 on the back - these work out to 2027 mm and 2102 mm circumference respectively. I've seen various recommendations for R-cmpd alternatives (245/40-18 & 275/40-18) seem to be a common setup - both end up being about 1.2% larger - but Mich PSC's are not available in the 275/40 so still looking at other options. How much mismatch from the OEM sizes are allowed before PSM, ABS, etc. are messed up ? I suppose in theory its the mismatch of the ratio of front to back - not the absolute sizes - that will mess things up - but not sure.
  23. I've been doing PCA DE's and lapping days at the local track for 2 years (though not 30 / yr - I am envious ! :notworthy: ) - I'm in the PCA white run group now and I suspect I'll move up to blue sometime next year if I keep up the work ... I just replaced the front pads for first time this spring and stuck with OEM but I expect to replace the backs next spring - will likely go with upgraded pads then (front and back) - Pagid yellow was what I was thinking about. Tho' I'm not looking forward to the noise / poor cold braking with street use. I completely agree re. new tracks / rain - no issues there. Mostly I'm at one local track that I am getting fairly comfortable / smooth / fast on. Still lots to learn but a little more grip would be nice ... Also, no arguments with the balance these 987's have and how forgiving they are with street tires once they are broken in ... I do love this car. :jump: Wear on the tires is primarily outside edge which is why I'm thinking of camber adjustment. The car gets more miles on the road vs. the track but the track driving has a much more significant impact on my tire wear.
  24. I'm hoping some Boxster drivers will respond with what wheel / tires sizes they are using on their 987 Boxster-S's ... in particular for street legal r-compound tires (Michelin PS Cups, etc.). My use is only for DE's - no auto-x or racing. I have the stock 18" 40 profile wheels / tires front and back right now (and plan to keep those for the street / wet track days) but plan to get rims for use with the R-compound tires for dry days. Tire-Rack recommended 19" wheels / 35 profile tires but I would have thought that 18" (or even 17" if they would fit) would have been a better choice in terms of keeping costs down and minimizing un-sprung weight. I did try searching the forums but either I'm not very good at it or I couldn't find many specific recommendations. :( I'm also kind of wondering if it would be better to invest in lowering springs / camber adjustment rather than r-comps as a first mod to get around the tracks a little faster ... so if any opinions on that, appreciated as well. :thankyou:
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