turbowiu

That's what I ended up doing last night, I dropped it down to load level in the low level so now normal is the old low

I'll try to get you pics within the next week. What I did was remove the sub completely to get to the wires. 1. remove rear spare tire cover out of vehicle, open it up and pull back and set it somewhere so it doesn't get screwed up 2. unplug cable going to sub amp. 3. remove 4 nuts holding the sub enclosure in 4. once I got the sub enclosure removed I unscrewed the dual voice coil "sub" lol it's 5.25" and unscrewed the stock 100W amp 5. since the sub is dual voice coil it's got 4 wires coming out of the amp to the speaker 2 + and 2 -, I made note from the speaker which wires were positive and which were negative, the positive has a bigger connector to the speaker than the negative in case you forget after you reinstall everything. I unplugged the speaker wires off the sub, reinstalled the sub and re-routed the 4 wires under the stock 100W amp so they come out the front of the sub enclosure then reinstalled the amp (note: out of the 4 wires the 2+ are connected together at the speaker and the 2- are connected at the speaker) 6. now you can do one of two things, the best way is to buy a PAC Audio Part Number: SNI-35, http://www.pac-audio.com/products/products...ng-An-Amplifier , it's got 4 wires coming out of it, actually 6 but you don't use the two brown wires, it's got 2 positive and 2 negative wires. All you do is run the two positive wires to the positive wires you removed from the sub and the two negative wires to the other two negatives. Alternatively if you want to be cheap you can take rca's cut the ends off and run the positive's together (center pin) and the negatives togeter, you'd want to run both positives to the positive wires you removed from the sub and both the negatives (outside wires on rca) to the negative wires you removed from the sub I don't recommend this way but it can be done. 6a. A side note that I'd like to add is run the wires one for one, what I mean by this is you have two positivies from the stock amp so run one positive wire from the PAC to one positive wire from the stock amp and run the other positive from the PAC to the other positive wire coming from the stock amp, this will give you the best sound. 7. On the PAC it has sensitivity settings for signal, I turned mine all the way up so it picks up nearly all the signal. If you install it and forget to turn up the sensitivity you might think you hooked something up incorrectly. 8. Now you run your two RCA's from the PAC box and route them to your amp. You have to run your amp power wires up to the battery under the seat. I used a fused line and connected it to the big positive wire coming off the battery near where the fuses are. 9. I have a JL Audio 250/1 so I have signal sensing on my amp so I didn't have to run a remote turn on, if you need a remote turn on find something that's 12v switched that doesn't have constant 12v till you turn the key. Again, you'd have to search for the best spot to get the 12v switched wire because I don't have spot to tell you to run from. That's pretty much the install or the dirty of it, again I'll try to get pics within the week of the sub since I need to clean up the installation a little bit anyway it was late so I kind of threw it all together to just make it work

No one ? Sometime within this next week I'm going to be probing the rear suspension ecu to see if I can find the voltage wire that sends the signal to raise / lower the vehicle at x speed. If I find this and it works I will let everyone know. I can't find the schematics anywhere online for it so it will be a tedious process of pulling each wire to test should be fun lol, I'd still like to get information on the "brown wire mod" if anyone has it. I know there was a talk about the PIWIS tester being able to do this, my friend that has one at his work is looking into what he can do with it to see if he can re-program it or not I know there was mention of being able to do so on the European makes to 20mm

Ok, so I forget where I read about the brown wire mod, I believe it was on this forum but I can't find anything that has to do with the mod to keep the cayenne in the loading level while driving. I looked under the front passenger seat and saw that there was a connector that had a brown wire going to it, looks like it had been snipped at both ends, previous owner probably cut the brown wire. It looks like it's been resoldered together but I wanted to get more information about this "mod" before cutting the wire and testing it out. I'm going to be sticking my brother in the back seat to find out if any of the wires coming from the rear suspension module are sending a signal since I don't have a service manual to see if I can pull that plug or install some sort of resistor to keep it from reading the proper voltage. Anyone cut this brown wire here and if so what happened? I'd assume you get some annoying error in the dash about a compressor error

Pulled the sub out removed the wires from the sub speaker and ran them to the converter. Used signal sensing on my amp for remote turn on and now I have my sub hooked up :)

which wheel and part number is it ?

So I just got my TT cayenne and I'm looking to install an amp and sub. I bought a line out converter and after nearly breaking the rear upper plastic interior piece to try and get to the amp above the cd changer I gave up and was looking at hooking up the line converter from the sub wires. Anyone have any wiring diagrams or know the best way to install a external amp to power a external sub with our SUV's? I thought that running the line out converter to the wires going into the installed amp would be best but since I nearly broke that rear quarter panel I don't really want to fart with that part anymore. So there's my question, I can't find anything in the search. Who's done it and how'd you do it. :) TIA

that wheel is pretty sick, which one is it and where'd you pick it up? Mine is getting pretty worn and I'm looking for a new one