danny tattersall

Danny, The dealership will want to put in OE items, no idea what they'll want to charge for those. Get a quote from them & maybe the time to shop the work around to some independents? Not sure where you are? Hi Danyol, I am based in the North West of England and we are blessed with numerous excellent Porsche Specialists in this area so the prices are pretty competetive. I have discussed the replacement of the coil packs with the guy that is doing the job and he is supplying them for me at trade prices because I told him what I could get them for and they were significantly cheaper than what was initially being quoted! It definitely pays to shop around and do your homework! Thanks again, Danny.

Thanks to everybody for their replies. It pretty much confirms what I thought so I will ask the dealer to change them while they are replacing the spark plugs and I will go for the Bosch items as I can get them for 2/3 of the price of the Beru units and they should be equally good quality. Thanks again, Danny.

Hi, I have just had my car to a local Porsche specialist to try and resolve a misfire under high boost conditions. Perhaps not unsurprisingly he is going to replace the spark plugs when I take it back to him on Friday. The question is would it be worthwhile changing all 6 coil packs at the same time irrespective of what the condition of them is like? The car is almost 5 years old and has covered 36,000 miles and although I don't think that I will be keeping it much longer I can't help but feel that it makes sense to spend the extra money and change them. At the very least it shows that the car is maintained properly and will help when I come to sell it. Also, has anybody used the Bosch coil packs instead of the Beru ones? They are a reputable manufacturer and I can source them cheaper than the Beru ones. Thanks in advance, Danny.

The MAF is an original Bosch unit that I sourced from a reputable supplier. I have had the car for nearly 12 months and I think that this problem has probably been there from since I bought it but I didn't notice it due to the high speeds etc that you need to be doing in order for it to manifest. As soon as the misfire occurs I back off the throttle immediately so as not to cause any damage to the engine. The car is booked into a Porsche specialist next Friday so hopefully they will be able to diagnose the cause. Thanks again, Danny.

Thanks for all the replies. I can confirm that there is no check engine light and that I don't think there is a problem with the wastegates because I recently had a restricted 0.4 to 0.5 bar boost after messing around with the electrical connector on the MAF sensor and the car was effectively running on the wastegate spring default pressure. This has obviously been resolved but I have too much rather than too little boost. My first thoughts were that the spark plugs and / or coil packs might be faulty but the fact that it is boosting to 1.4 made me think that an overboost situation might be the cause. I'm not sure whether or not the ECU has been flashed. Is there any easy way to check it out? I have a Galleto 1260 that can interrogate the ECU to see what ECU file is installed if somebody knows what I need to look for. I was under the impression that the ECU can electronically allow the boost pressure to be higher than the wastegate sprng pressure by bleeding off some of the pressure from the wastegate actuator hoses. As the Diverter Valves look like they are purely mechanical it would stand to reason that there must be another device in the system that taps off some of the pressure. Thanks again. Any more suggestions or responses to the additional questions above would be greatly appreciated. Danny.

Hi Guys, My 2005 Turbo S is suffering from a severe misfire under heavy load / high boost conditions. I have seen an indicated 1.4 bar, although I am unsure whether or not that is just a spike, and am unable to push the accelerator fully to the floor in high gears for long because the misfire will occur. However, if I push the accelerator 80 - 90% of the way down and control the boost pressure at around 1.0 bar there is no misfire apparent. There are no check engine lights or fault codes stored (although I only have a generic OBDII scanner) and I have recently replaced the MAF in order to try and resolve this problem. The question is can anybody suggest what the likely fault is? Could the diverter valves be sticking in the open position causing overboost and subsequent overboost cut-off? Are the diverter valves purely mechanical or do they have an electrical input to open / close them as i think that they are purely mechanical and perhaps the pressure in the pipeline that the diverter valve 'sees' is controlled via a separate electrical device. Thanks in advance for your assistance, Danny.

Hi Danyol, I was thinking that it could be modified too because the performance of this thing is phenomenal. It was perfectly dry conditions on the road on my way to work this morning so I switched the PSM off to see if it would stop the juddering / wheelspin........and it did!! It seems as though my PSM is too sensitive / intrusive. There is no Check Engine Light and there are no fault codes present but I have noticed that the PSM has applied a front brake on occasions when cornering at speeds that were well below what you would expect it to be needed. Does anybody have any idea what this could be? I am sure I have read somewhere that MAF sensors can cause PSM problems.... Thanks in advance, Danny.

Hey Danny.. Interesting that you mentioned what's happening to your car. I have a 997 TT with upgraded HP to above 630 hp. It was running fine.. so spinning of wheels on hard acceleration on any gear. just 2 days ago I've noticed that when I accelerate (all gears) the engine just revvs up to 7,000... even when I change gears I feel like I have no traction.... I could not figure out if this is a result of spinning wheels or is it just the engine is disconnecting from the drive train (the power is not being transferred to the wheels)?? I am still surprised at all this.. I have a clutch Master Stage III Kevlar clutch installed but it was running fine and broken in very nicely... This may sound stupid but I have noticed this after I got the car washed.. I even got some screching sound that belts make when they are wet.. some say that is normal after heavy rain or too thourough of a wash... is it a coincidence... I'm taking to the dealer tomorrow to see what they think.. will keep you posted.. However, it could be belt slippage or clutch slippage... ( i'm guessing) Thanks for the reply, I would be very interested to hear what the dealer says about your car. The clutch on mine was replaced less than 1,000 miles ago so should be fine as I drive it very sedately the majority of the time. I think that my car's horsepower is far more than the 450 BHP that is quoted for the Turbo S though because it is a complete animal. I can not really use full power in anything below top gear because I have too much 'mechanical sympathy' to keep the accelerator to the floor while the rear end of the car is struggling to get the power down. Regards, Danny.

Hi, the wheel balancing is fine. The problem is only apparent under hard acceleration and is not speed related. I cited the fact that the problem exists in 6th gear at high speed to negate some of the things that you would only expect in the lower gears where axle tramp and wheel spin etc are more likely. The fact that it does it at such high speeds in top gear makes it pretty unusual. It could just be that the power of the car is so high that it is struggling to lay the power down effectively,however, as I have never driven another 911 turbo I have nothing to compare it with. Perhaps owners of modified cars could advise how well their vehicles cope with getting the power down in the higher gears? I believe that my car may have had a remap since it boosts at 1.0 bar without fully opening the throttle and, as stated previously, will probably easily reach 1.2 bar at WOT. Thanks again everybody, Danny.

A "judder?" How violent? Shouldn't be wheel spin at those speeds, car doesn't have that much HP unless it's been highly modified or the tires are badly worn. Hi, the judder is severe enough for me to back off the throttle rather than just trying to accelerate through it. I agree that it should not be wheelspin at those speeds but that is the only thing that I can think of that it is similar too i.e. the wheels slipping and then gripping. The tyres have only done a couple of thousand miles and have lots of tread left on them. Someone on another forum said that it could be the joint where the drive shaft meets the transmission. What do you guys reckon? Thanks again, Danny.

Hi, I very rarely use the performance in my 2005 Turbo S and have only done about 3,000 miles in it so do not really know what is normal and what isn't when it comes to using the power on offer. However, I opened the throttle fully last week in 6th gear accelerating between 100 and 120 mph and had to back off the throttle due to a judder that was felt from the rear of the car. Even though the conditions were dry I thought that it was wheelspin, but now I'm not so sure because it just doesn't seem right that a car with 4WD should do this. The only other occasion that this is happened is when I accelerated at full throttle in 3rd gear but I was less surprised about that because of the ferocious power delivery that the car has. The car has just had a clutch replacement and this problem was not apparent prior to that because I think that the clutch was slipping ever so slightly and taking the edge off the power delivery. Does anybody have any idea whether this is 'normal' or if there is likely to be a problem with the car? For information the car will easily hold 1.0 bar boost but I'm sure that I have seen 1.2 bar indicated (may have been a pressure spike). Thanks in advance for your suggestions, Danny Tattersall.