stateofidleness

Awesome guys! I emailed all companies listed and will let you know how it goes. "Metalnerd" replied ina few hours which I thought was pretty awesome, but said the tools were TOO special for them to carry. They offered some additional links as well. Samstag and Baum Tools both look promising.

Gents, I've been googling the companies listed and it looks promising. JFP, do you know the exact tools needed for this job. I saw mentioned in other threads that the "manual" states what tool is supposed to be used, but not sure which manual. I'm guessing this is the official service manual used by the dealership. On the Porsche one, all I was told was the tool was marked "3383", but is this actually something like "P3383" or something? An exact tool number might help my search or inquiry with these companies. Thanks for the leads all!!

Gents, My car has been in the shop for 2 months now (seriously.. long story) getting transmission work done. It started leaking differential oil and not sure of the cause. This a 2000 base TIP with 75k miles. My mechanic is sure it might be some seals ("front converter seal" and a "double lip seal") that need to be replaced.. long story short.. he calls me today and tells me they require special tools for the removal of the "double lip" seal and a special tool for the installation of it. He says the only place to get it is Germany and it will take another 6 weeks to get... ugh... He did give me the tool numbers to see if I wanted to try to source them locally myself. He said the dealership will not loan/order tools for the public any more :( Is there ANY way I can get my hands on these two tools if anything just to borrow for a couple of days? I believe he said the removal tool was a VW tool and the other was "3383" for the installation tool. Are there any Porsche mechanics on the board here that have access to these tools that might be willing to loan them out for a couple days? I have the VW tool number too, but having trouble finding the paper at the moment. I'll post it tomorrow. Can anyone help? I miss my car :(

I did the same thing few weeks back. Looks like you have the wrong part. Also, for me, the easiest way to remove and install was to remove the light switch knob and backing from the dash and "work from above". It's like 3 extra hex screws and it comes right out. I was able to actually see the part from above and didn't have to "guess" at it or "translate" what the little mirror was telling me from underneath. Much easier this way.

Yep, brake decals on order! How much cleaning/prep work was done? Anything special done in the way of cleaning? Planning this DIY next week!

MY00 Base Tip Here's a quick vid I took while I had the engine cover off: What the hell is that slower "whooshing" sound? It's hard to hear the lifters in that video so I might try to get a better one. I've never been around another boxster that had the engine cover off so I don't know what I'm hearing or what's normal. this vid was taken immediately following an oil change.

Today, while changing the oil, I confirmed the part number of the existing MAF to end in 125.000 which I believe to be revision 1 of the sensor. I'm gonna order a new one tomorrow. I still hear the ticking sound though, which I thought to be my lifters (hence the oil change today to a heavier weight oil). Almost no change... Spark plugs were changed about 1k miles ago and are secure. Anything else I can check? Visually, I can't find anything and touching all the hoses up top doesn't effect the sound or idle. From underneath (while running), I can hear the exhaust leak, but still can't pinpoint it. It sounds more pronounced on the driver's side. I guess the only way to know is to get it professionally smoke tested.

Hey forum, I've had nagging SAI codes and CEL's off and on for a year or so now.. just recently it started coming on much quicker in between CEL's (mainly 1133 and 1126). I normally clear the code with my code reader while the car is running without any problems. This morning; however, I cleared it with the car in ACC (not started). When I went to start it, it would barely start! Heard a single low "pop" and some surging of the rpms. I didn't hear the air pump kick on either (fwiw.. it runs normally on other startups). I turned the car off after a few seconds as all I could hear was cash registers... Turned it back on and it surged some more, but I gave it very little gas to smooth it out and then let off. It started running like "normal". Now I figure because I cleared the ECU, the trims were crazy off and all that which is probably what caused the rough run condition when I restarted after the clear. I have 70k on the car ('00 base) and do not know if the MAF has ever been replaced. I've read on a few forums about taking the oil cap off while it's running (although, admittedly, I didn't know what this would do or what it meant). I took the cap off and it sounded like a tornado lol... definitely a "suction" type sound. I quickly put the cap back on (sounded like the car wanted to die). What should I tackle first? I'm changing the oil tomorrow and would like to order a new MAF (just to cross it off the list), but was a little unclear on the part numbers. Apparently there is a .125 revision that requires a dealership reflash of the ECU? Is this correct or can I just get the .125 and let it relearn on its own? Note: I do have an existing exhaust leak (not sure where..) and I've had the AOS replaced within the last 5k miles. The CEL's preceeded both. The exhaust leak is gradually getting louder though.. a very noticeable "Ticking" which sounds like it's just in front of the driver's side wheel (can't tell if it's up high or underneath). I'm beginning to think a lift would pay for itself when you own a P-car :)

Same exact thing happened to me when I tried to DIY my alternator replacement. Got it all put back together (at first glance) and the next day as I left work, I heard a high pitched squeal. Take the access cover off and the belt jumped and was cutting into the plastic shift cable protector. The alternator "shifted" in that horizontal bracket and the belt came off. I feel it was due to incorrect seating in that little "rail" and probably not tightening the bolt enough.

Any other electrical anomalies? Same thing happened to me as my ignition switch was failing. I'd have to "jiggle" the key in the switch to make my AC and both headlights work.

nm, found a great deal on ebay.

hey everyone, i finally got my web design site online and am wanting a car vinyl made with the website's URL on it to help promote it. it is a bit long, 15 characters, plus the www. and .com. with a hardtop on the way, i am thinking of doing it the width of the rear glass window or also the dimensions of the raised spoiler. *don't take this as spam* but the site is www.stateofidleness.com would that even fit on the rear spoiler and still be readable by passer-bys? anyone else promote their site on their car? looking for some ideas and mainly pricing for a vinyl like this. Thanks so much!

hey brad! i'm still lookin' for a buyer for "greenie". put the word out :) lovin' the box though!

Hey all, I love going to car shows and being in that "culture". I'm wanting to start participating more by actually showing my car. What are some prerequisites for showing a car in a small/large show? things like: What to clean and how? What do judges look for? Not enough "mods"/Too stock, worth entering? Tips from experienced show participants? What are some things you look for as a viewer of the cars? thanks guys. appreciate any insight! -Steve

Hey there everyone, I was reading on Pedro's DIY site about caliper repainting and he mentioned that S models had red, some had yellow, some black, and "Special Editions" with gray calipers. I have gray calipers on mine ('00 non-S) and was wondering what the "Special Edition" was he was referring to. As fas as I know, my car is a basic base model with not much special about it lol thx

well guys i had successfully replaced the alternator that night and have been driving it trouble-free since then. today at work, my buddy had a dead battery so i jumped it for him with no problem. shortly after though, i had left to get lunch and now i hear a horrible whining sound coming from the engine compartment area (roughly around the alternator it sounds like) the sound gets louder as the rpms go up and if i go pretty fast, it causes another sound (closer to the driver's side of the engine compartment) that sounds like something is seizing for a short time. as i'm still at work, i have no tools with me to remove the inside service cover to check the belt or alternator, but im too scared to drive it home with that sound. im afraid if im doing highway speeds, something might break or cause more damage... this sound did not happen AT ALL until right after i jumped my buddy's car... what could be causing this? and is it safe to drive home? thanks!

i just purchased my 2000 with 41k miles with no issues from the Austin (texas) dealership for $18k out the door. I've found out REAL quick how much repairs cost on these cars.. I think you could do a LOT better and find a car that is sound from the get-go! good luck!

did you lose power steering? if you did, this would indicate a broken belt (which also drives the water pump and other stuff) causing the overheating. if it is the belt, VERY EASY DIY! if not, might be a hose or something, but a "clunk" seems odd for that...

hey guys, stupid question (but im without a manual) and dont remember how it came out... of the three wires/cables that attach to the back, there are two ring terminal wires, one big and one skinny. the big one (black) goes to the large stud on the back, and the smaller (flatter and skinnier) red cable goes to? does it go to the other nut on the back of the alt? thanks guys or if someone can post a pic

cussing did the trick! that, and 2 long screwdrivers as "prybars"... hour of wiggling and struggling and out it came! had it tested at O'Reillys and it failed.. so i had them order a rebuilt unit which will cost me $204 so it isn't too bad.. will hopefully have her back together in the next couple of days. any tricks for reinstallation?

i attached a picture of where im currently at... the part that is circled in red, is that the "bushing" i keep reading about? i put a screwdriver on it to try and tap it directly and the thing feels like metal, not rubber.. so im confused.. i also read another post where someone said they took out the pulley bolt.. there is NO WAY this bolt can come out with the alternator still in like that.. no matter how you wiggle it, bend it, rotate it, etc, it physically cannot clear the little middle firewall hump by the console... ive tried wd40, seems useless... i tried putting that bolt back then "re-tapping" it, rather hard actually, and nothing... im lost...

not real sure how to do that...

guys, ive searched all alternator threads and am using Mike Focke's alternator swap tutorial... im to the point where i have the belt off and the lower alternator bolt completely out, and i have the other bolt (with the pulley on it) completely loose and out of the bushing in the rear of the alternator... i can get it to rotate clockwise only about 1mm and that's it.. seems stuck on the pulley side (when looking from inside the cabin of the car) i keep seeing people say "hit it with a hammer" but i dont know what to hit, where to hit it, and what the purpose is.. can someone help me finish up getting this alt out? how far am i?

so i was checkin out a wheel thread and of course it sent me to ebay with the feeling that i suddenly NEEDED to change wheels lol.. im curious though, i have only been able to find these rims in 20" size.. do they make an 18" version? http://www.eurotechwheels.com/images/rims/POR-125-BLK-2W.jpg (yes i want them all black) also, anyone have any experience with these rims? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/19-Porsche-...#ht_2338wt_1831 price is right and the design is great! for a stock '00 986, will a 10" rear wheel require a spacer? id like to not have to use spacers if at all possible, so im wondering what my widest options are (weight is an issue too) thanks!

ok guys, i get pretty paranoid when stuff like this happens and i start trying to cover all my bases.. when i get the car home tomorrow, do i remove the alternator from the car to get it tested at AutoZone or do they test the alternator while it's in the car? (probably a REALLY dumb question) also, im going to let them test my current battery as well. would it be smart to replace the battery and alternator at the same time? i would think that putting a new battery in with a faulty alternator would damage the new battery, and putting a new alternator in with the existing battery may not fix my issue so... just trying to get my ducks in order to get back on the road as quick as possible (borrowing the folks' car and you know they love that *rolls eyes*) also, does AutoZone sell the serpentine belt, and if the alternator they have does not have a pulley on it (ive read this on other threads), is this ok? thanks!