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Eric (Plug Guy)
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Everything posted by Eric (Plug Guy)
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Thanks guys. Will schedule it in for service, and maybe they'll fix the screwy spooked headunit/Becker at the same time.
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Driving in today I noticed my horn was, er, uh, 'demasculated' and down to one note. Where is the wiring for the horn? Easy to check? I bet a wire's loose. Help! Thanks.
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Parts
Eric (Plug Guy) replied to mdillian3690's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I get them at my local dealer, who also offers them at 15% over dealer cost. Hendrick Porsche Scott Keziah (704)566-2253, tell them Eric, the Plug Guy, sent you. -
Don't waste your time. It's not in the right location, is hidden by the steering wheel, and is too far to do any good. Waste of time. Place the microphone up near the rearview mirror. I've had that in two 996 Cabs and it works very well.
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996 trunk lever
Eric (Plug Guy) replied to rattles's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
There is a problem with Wurth though....it's out of stock nearly everywhere these days. -
Thanks Kirb. Mine is in the center dash console, bottom left. We'll work on it with your great instructions....saw your page. Thanks!
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Unfortunately Sharkworks is not making that unit any longer. Bahntech may be the only other option besides TechArt.
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Curious.... We tweaked the wiring three times. Does the Targa shade switch light up like the other switches when the headlights are on? Any tricks? Thanks!
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Cabrio Window Question
Eric (Plug Guy) replied to bkaran's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
My '99 (now sold and replaced my an '04 C4S Cab) had a problem. 5 months out of warranty, a 1" section of the plastic window came apart from the canvas. DSM would not cover a penny of it. Bought the window, had it put in by dealer. Window is about $700, labor is more. Problem is, half the time the zipper breaks. Mine did. When it does, it REQUIRES a new canvas top. Whole thing was about $3500+ for labor, window and top. I'd look into some aftermarket places to try this in your area before I'd spend the money on a high-price-for-labor Porsche dealer. Best of luck. -
Thanks. I really just wanted to make it happen on its own rather than me hitting a switch. But I'll keep checking. There's got to be a setting for that somewhere.
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On my '99 996 Cab, the spoiler deployed at 45mph. On my '04 C4S Cab, it deploys at 75mph. Is there anyone out there who has found a PST2 programming point where this can be set to deploy at any speed other than 75mph??? Does not show up in the PST2 program anywhere. Thanks!
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THANKS!!!!!
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Just picked up my '04 C4S. Recall a discussion here some time ago (but cannot find it) about the cutout between 3500-4500rpms. Would like info on how to keep it on throughout the band, with the option to use the onboard switch as factory on/off if needed. Thanks!
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FIXED! I had enough of this noise. Was beginning to wonder what the hell would cause so much squealing. Last weekend after washing and drying the car, I opened the top slightly until the boot cover moved back, and I checked the seals along the back edge, which I had 'gummi'd' already. Then I closed it up tight and cleaned the rear plastic window. As I was buffing the inside of the plastic window, down in the lower corner, driver's side, I created the SQUEAK on my own!!!!! I reopened the boot cover, and applied gummi to the bottom edge of the seal along the back of the cab top - but NOT all the way across - it was just in that one corner (I did the other corner too). Today, temp is above 60, sun is shining, and my cab is noise free.
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Thanks Loren! That's awesome. A step further - what I'm looking for shows how these parts interact in driving/shifting conditions. I probably ought to go hang out at the Porsche shop where they are replacing engines/RMS jobs on a regular basis. :D
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Wondering if anyone has a cutaway drawing or images that show the clutch area underside up close and personal, or animation that shows the clutch and how it engages, etc. Don't ask. B)
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My '99 has been a relatively silent car for a number of good years, but last summer I noticed a noise sounding like rubber on rubber from the rear boot - the cover just ahead of the engine lid. I've used some gummi on the seal. The problem is only evident above 60 degrees and after sitting in the sun. Almost sounds like the old days of rubber motor mounts, or dead shocks - but it's not that bad. It's slight enough to sound like light creaking when I pull out of my office or over a speed bump, but not too bad once I'm on the move. And if the temp is low, or a cloudy day, nothing. I've checked most of the major issues, and it's odd since it started at about year five of the car's life. I've even adjusted the little pegs up under the boot cover (open it and you'll see them there) but no luck. And yes, I know cabs are prone to this - but with five years of relatively noise free life, I know I can get it back to that. Anyone have specific tips on where to apply the gummi or what else to look for? Thanks!
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On existing full power seats, can lumbar be added after delivery? And not some aftermarket gizmo, but the actual factory controls, bladder, etc. Thanks!
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Gas/electric, size, power, features, etc. Minor garage work, tire inflation, maybe some air tools, etc. Any suggestions for something small and simple with good reputation? Thanks!
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Any recommendations on aftermarket replacement batteries? '99 996 Cab....5 years old this week. Figure it's about that time.
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If anyone has any questions on these console painting issues, feel free to email me at eric@bumperplugs.com We do these all day long. :)
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After weeks of an annoying squeak, I took some time this past weekend to go deeper into the cab to find the problem. Thanks Loren for the documents. I did not have to remove the rear trim. I took out the windstop catch and found the felt was smashed to nothing, and replaced it with same. No change. I then noticed the small wings of canvas that fold up and down on each side of the top were separate pieces, plastic, with canvas over them. On the driver's side, I can move the piece when the top is closed or half open. When I move it, I get the squeak. So I peak down inside the cavity to see a small white nylon bushing of sorts, on a metal rod, with a spring. A spray of teflon rids me of the problem. For two days, at least. :( So now I'm puzzled. I know that is the spot, but I am uncertain if I should consider gummi or some other grease, or try to work with a spray/liquid product further. Any thoughts/comments? Thanks!
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Thanks Loren. Now my weekend list has grown. :)
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As I delve further into this, and try to isolate the problem on my '99 C2 Cab, I find the driver's side rear window area and panel containing the speaker are the area from which this noise originates. Driving down the road it sounds like rubber against rubber. I dropped the seat back to see if that changed anything - nothing changed. I reached around and pressed on the back carpet against the firewall and it lessened a bit but not 100%. I also tried pressing on the side interior panel (speakers, windstop hold) and that seems to be the general fix. There's a lot of space in that general area looking down from the convertible top for the mechanism. Not sure if I should remove the side panel (what is best way) and install some felt or other sound deadeners (and risk the all to frequent worsening of the problem), or try another fix. Does not seem to be a window seal problem, though I'd not rule anything out yet. Definitely not dried out seals. They look and function just fine. And dropping the window a bit does not solve the problem. Thoughts? Thanks. :huh:
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Mass Air Flow Sensor
Eric (Plug Guy) replied to DoubleNutz's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Another issue: I had my CE light come on recently, and based on the fault code the MAF was replaced. CE light came back on. After lengthy investigation, it was found to be a bad Bellows Tube. The MAF replacements was in the $450 range. The bellows tube is about $20 and takes a good tech around 30 minutes, but the book says 2 hours labor charge.