JimPDX

I want to replace the rubber/felt edge strip around the sliding roof opening because its looking a sun faded (part number 996-564-211-01).

From what I can tell it looks like I don't have to take the sliding roof off but the clearance toward the rear will be a bit tight...maybe a tilt up position would be better.

Has anyone popped one of these off and installed a new one? Any instructions would be appreciated.

Thx...

Jim

Will it help to protect the engine, fittings, etc. from road salt that gets splashed on when driving in the snow and slush?  Thanks. 

b-man

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The protection plates are not designed to protect from road salt, snow + slush. They are there to prevent crankcase damage in the event that something hard is run over by your car and in turn it strikes your your engine crankcase - especially if the car is lowered etc.

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I like the look of your plate. Looks strong.

On ROW P/cars this is pretty much a 'standard' option because the roads aren't as evenly and smoothly paved in the USA and many of them are 10 -12 mm lower than US cars. In any even it is an excellent option whereever you are to protect from debris striking the pan, or hit curb risers.

If there is a concern that the plate interferes with the oil down flow at time of oil change, then simply make sure the car is on even ground and place a shop cloth into the space around the drain hole between the pan bottem and plate to to pick up any directional leaks that may occur.

I've never had any problem with the plate during oil change.

Follow directions in your owner's manual where it tells you how to chage the bulb. The lite pops out and snaps back in. Very simple.

The problem was that when the officer stopped me I honestly couldn't say I hadn't been speeding. I did tell him that I thought 88 was a bit of a stretch however.

I had helped a lady with an overheating radiator at the rest area just East of Van Horn. She pulled out shortly before I did and as I accelerated up to speed she waved a "thanks" just as we passed (~3000 feet from the rest area) her and wife and I both waved back and I missed an upshift to third. Engine didn't like that but clutch in quickly and no harm done. Well no harm to the car anyway.

Except I didn't then know that the max speed at the top end of second is ~70 MPH.

When I let it be known that I would contest the citation the officer asked:

"Why would you do that, you just admitted that your engine over-speeded?"

I told him that I really didn't know how fast I had gone when the over-speed happened. Later tested and looked at the manual. test was ~66.

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My legal advice: pay the bail. My personal advice: know the speed limit in the area you are driving. Obey it.

If you get pulled over be polite to the officer and SAY NOTHING that could incriminate you like you did here. Right off the bat you admitted that you "...really didn't know how fast you were going"...now you have no grounds to contest the violation...the courts view such an admission as being careless behind the wheel because you have a duty as a driver to know the speed limit. The benefit of the doubt in will go to the state my friend...hope the fine isn't too hefty. Hang in there.

Jim

Moving traffic radar speeding citation at mile marker 144 Westbound on I-10 just east of Van Horn TX. Officer traveling in opposite direction said he clocked me at 88 in a 75. Absolutely certain he was wrong, but.....

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How fast were you honestly going?

I don't see any recommendations in the manual.

What is the problem with your sunroof? Is it making noises or not moving smoothly?

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No. Its working OK. The grease in the channels is somewhat contaminated with small bits and grits, sand and dirt. I want to clean it all out and re-lube so the dirt doesn't get further into the sliding roof system.

Thx...

Like Dell said the Porsche shield has a hole for the oil plug. The plate is around $95.00 to 100.00 now at Sunset very easy to install with just 3 bolts.

Part number: 996-107-981-00

Loren...

Is there a Porsche recommended grease or lubricant to use to grease the channels and the screw drive on the sliding roof?

If nothing recommended by Porsche and recommendations which grease to use.

Thx...

Jim

Do it yourself. My motto as far as a Porsche is concerned: "if you love your car never take her to a dealer".

Many thanks Loren...

Jim

Hi Loren...

Do you have the part number please for the felt weather strip that sits around the edge of the roof where the sunroof buts up against? Its the black strip that you can see around the sunroof edge when you look down on the sunroof.

Also, do you have a schematic of how it attaches.

Thx...

Jim

I hesitate to say it, but I think my MAF coded check engine light has been banished.  Was getting the P1128(?) code indicating MAF issues.  Took it to Porsche and they said it was intermittent and had occured five times during a three day period.  I suspected that the previous owner's K&N filter may have been a contributor so I picked up an exhorbitantly overpriced paper factory filter from them while I was there.  (The only good thing is that they didn't charge me for the ECU check :D )

Anyway, replaced it and cleared the codes out.  Been two days of fairly heavy driving and idling with no CEL at all.  Had a MAC scanner hooked up to it to log the data if it popped up and it never did.  :clapping:

So, anyone want to buy a dirty K&N panel filter for a 996?

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K & N filters are very good. The trick is not to use very much oil and after you clean and re-oil the filter is to let the filter leach out any excess oil before you put it in your car. I put mine in a brown paper grocery bag and let it sit overnite...then put it in the car and never have had it throw a code.

Keep the K & N filter. Go down to the car store and get some of their Filter cleaning soap and some K & N oil. Use only their products. Clean real good and let dry in the sun...then LIGHLY re-oil the filter and let it soak out on some paper or in a paper bag.

I think you will be pleasantly surprised how well they do work...

Good luck

I'm a new '99 996 owner and am a little baffled currently with the coolant level.  I drove the car home after purchase nearly 1100 miles from Miami.  No coolant issues.  Then after typical around town trips I noticed the instrument light flashing indicating lower levels of coolant.  Top it off and drive on.  Two weeks later the same thing but this time, I needed to add almost a full liter!  The entire time the temp stays within acceptable range and no stains or pools of fluids anywhere to be seen.  I have looked under the car on a limited basis but it all looks very dry.  Any known coolant drinking TSBs out there?

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Mine did the same thing for about a month. The coolant light never came on , but I noticed a drop in the coolant level. Did a post on this board and someone suggested that maybe I had a slight coolant leak from the expanision tank. I noticed no leaking whatseover, but i did ocassionally notice a coolant smell after driving.

I was told to look at the muffler pipes and tail pipe driver's side after a drive bringing engine up to speed. You do this from under the car to see if there was any coolant residue like drips of coolant onto the pipes. Sure enuff there was. The coolant would drip down onto the pipes and evaporate off creating the coolant smell thats why I never saw any coolant under the car but you could actually see the coolant dribble marks on the pipes.

Replaced the tank and got a new coolant tank cap. No smell. Coolant is fine now and maintains its level

Dell...

Its a little hard to find but it is still available up here. When I see it at Schucks or GI Joes...I always buy a couple of extra QT's. They're web site doesn't say its dicontinued.

I may be going down to the local Wal-Mart and see if they have a supply. I think you can order it from Wal-mart on line.

999 507 687 05 Fixing Clip (retail $0.77 each).

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Thank you, Loren

996 555 081 02 A18 Black vinyl covered trim piece attaches with 5 metal clips. Do you have the P/N of the clips?

Thx Loren...

Jim

OK Try this.

Directly below the rear windscreen is a a trim piece covered in either vinyl or leather depending upon your car's interior configuration.

It runs the width of the car directly above the rear shelf.

Take it out (there are 5 metal clips. Start at one end and gently pry one end loose. You can't brake anything. They are evenly spaced across the length of the trim piece and I think one is directly in the middle so you should be able to feel where they are attached. It takes about 30 seconds to remove it.

Once out take your car for a spin and see if you hear the noise. If you don't then its a matter of tightening the clips (use of felt tape works great around the insert points to thicken them up a bit).

If this doesn't work then I am at a loss.

BTW, the spacers for the window are metal...at least mine are and they are about 2.00 each. Its still possible that the plastic ones aren't doing their job.

Let me know...

What's a clear bra?

Does any one use waterwetter in their coolant?

any cons of using it.

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Just curious. Why would you want to use Water Wetter?

..

What do the numbers mean? Seal bore? Concentricity? Obviously out of round?

thx...

Jim

Jim:

The picture shows the measurements from the outside surface of the crankshaft/flywheel mounting flange to the inside of the crank opening in the case. Take 4 measurements and the difference can be no more that .30. In my case the variance between the top and bottom of the case was .36. If it is more than .30, then replace the engine.

Thanks to the court complainer & service bay stalker for letting me clarify this.

:clapping:

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thx for the explanation. Got it...

Jim

In the 99, there is an electric sensor that installs into a cavity on the bottom of the tank.  It reads the coolant level.

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Hi Jim...

but is that the "float" they are speaking about? I know the sensor reads the level...but why would they call that a 'float'?

Thx...

Jim

If its on both sides of the car then I would seriously look at both your side windows. They are known to rattle and the fix is pretty simple if it is, in fact, the side windows.

Here's what you do. Read TSB 6475 on this board

Pull the bottom weather strip seal back on the of your rear side windows. Use a thin plastic spatula to do this. In the center you will see a small 50mm metal spacer. With the tip of a flat blade screw driver try to move the spacer about 1/2 inch toward the B pillar. Move it a max of an inch only and no more than that. Do this on both sides of the car.

Drive the car and see if this eliminates or reduces he noise you are speaking about. If it does, then chances are you need to replace the spacers with the new longer version which are about $3.00 each at your dealership.

If that doesn't work let me know, there is another area that you can take a look at and I can walk you thru it. This would involve the rear interior trim panel just below your rear window. I had some rubbing there and, it sort of sounded like a ticking sound...that's a simple fix as well...but try the spacers for the windows first and see if that quiets it down a bit.

Good luck.

Jim

Took my car in for a coolant leak check. Dripping coolant rear driver's side off exhaust. Time for an expansion tank replacement. Pretty much a no-brainer.

Got a call on my answering service that yes, indeed, it was the expansion tank needing replacment and they were adding the 'new' float (about $12.00 inside the expansion tank).

Since I missed the call, and the shop is closed can someone tell me about this "float" thingy?

Thx... :)

Jim

I wouldn't do anything just yet. I don't think it has anything to do with tire mismatch.

I'd put about 300-400 miles on the tire and see if the brake in period stablizes the road grip. If it doesn't it might be that this specific tire can't handle the particular performance characteristics of your car esp. in the turn that you mention.

I think that is one reason why Porsche specifically recommends specific types, makes and designations, i.e., N2, N3, N4 and so on. Such designations indicate, among, other things that the tire can support the car as designed.