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Posts posted by the-goose

  1. When I bought my 1997 993 C2 Tiptronic a year ago the power was good, but recently the car feels less than adequate in the power department. It feels really lazy, as if its going uphill all the time, especially at slower speeds. Could there be something wrong with the engine i.e. spark plugs, inectors, MAF sensor etc.? Also, since I probably have to do some work on the engine I thought I would take the opportunity to do some additional power upgrades.

    What bolt on parts can I install onto the stock 3.6L motor to boost the HP to more "current" standards. I was thinking about the following for starters:

    New spark plugs

    New injection wires - Expensive

    New MAF sensor - Quite expensive

    Flushed out injectors

    New fuel filter

    New distributor cap

    Perhaps even a chipped DME... - Very expensive

    Will these easy fixes actually boost power or am I barking up the wrong tree? What do you suggest?


  2. Tiptronic problems on renntech.org all seems to very different. My problem has been described before, but I need a few more pointers to help me with my research. My '97 993 transmission slips ONCE only during the uphift cycle 2nd to 4th gear. It happens in either 2nd, 3rd or 4th. More annoyingly it slips badly at every kickdown under acceleration in any gear. It feels like the torque converter lock-up clutch does not engage for a while after the gearshift. Can this be attributed to the Torque Converter Solenoid Valve? What are the symptoms of the TC Solenoid Valve failing and how difficult is it to replace/repair. Could this in any way be connected to the Tiptronic Control Unit? Thanks!

  3. Eric, thanks for the tips. The problem is the Bilstein shock (see pic) has an flanged extension piece that connects to the stabiliser bar tierod. This flange piece threads around the whole shock like a nut

    it to acts as part of the spring adjustment mechanism. Here is the problem, I can’t wind it up and down the shock because the extended piece is linked to the tierod. If I remove the tierod bolt I can't turn it because it hits the prop shaft and hub....

    Can I do the following:

    A) remove the bottom end bolt of the actual shock and twist the whole shock a few times at the bottom end allowing it to "thread" up the “nuts” – will this damage the shock itself? Plus what would happen if I undo the shock at the bottom – will the whole hub assembly drop to the ground/shall I support it?

    B) This question is more to the real point - Which way do I turn the nuts? Will the car lift, when the spring (not shock) is longer or shorter? I.E. do I compress the spring further or let it extend...


  4. This is one thing I actually managed to fix (out of the ten I couldn't). The passanger seat was stuck in the far back position but |I could hear the thunk of the motor trying to move it. I took a set of pliers and cranked the threaded rods by hand. It was tricky to get in behind the seat, but once I got my hand in there I just gripped and turned and away she went. I sprayed a quick coat of WD40 so it doesn't stick again. Hope this helps a bit.

  5. This sounds awfully similar to a problem I'm experiencing with both my 2.5l Boxter Tipronic and the 993 Tiptronic. It is less pronounced in the boxster but in the 993 feels like a slipping clutch - extremely annoying. I initially thought the rpm changes was associated with the variocam change, but it happens with almost every gearchange. I feel the "slipping" sensation more on upchanges, but on downchanges the sensation is slightly different.

    For example, when I going around a tight corner at around 20mph, I lift the throttle, rpm drops, go round the corner and then press the throttle to get out of the corner there is a distinct "void" or "neutral" feeling of half a second before the tranny engages again and jumps into action...

    I know the fluid has never been changed because the seal is still on the plug - the car is due its 60k mile service. Is there an easy fix out there? Thanks!

  6. When I bought my 993 it had lowered H&R springs and Bilstein shocks on it. It is sitting very low and the standard tires are rubbing the arches too much on slight bumps, making a terrible noise and damaging both bodywork and tires. I want to raise the suspension between one half and one inch. Does anybody know if that is possible on this set-up or how to go about it...Cheers! G

  7. Hey Guys, summer's here again along with my unresolved top problem. I've fixed the cables and aligned the clamshell. The windows drop as they should when the roof latch is released and the top motor only runs with parking brake up. Problem is the convertible roof warning light on the dash stays lit and the top motor keeps running even when the clamshell is closed. It is supposed to stop automatically. This has caused a few extra snapped balljoints...I've troubleshooted all microswitches and found that the one on the convertible top motor is not working. When I open or close the top I have my wife press down on the switch to see if the top motor stops running and it doesn't. Is that a part that can be fixed or do I have to buy a whole new roof motor assembly? Does it sound like the correct solution? The car is a '98 2.5l tip-tronic...any ideas?

  8. Hi there, I've had top problems for some time now. Basically the top motor does not stop running when the top is in its final up or down position. This puts stress on the linkages and breaks the "red links". The roof light on the dash also does not go out. I've checked the microswitches and the control module and everything looks ok. I heard there was another microswitch INSIDE one of the roof transmissions. Is that true? And on which side is it...?

  9. That's great thanks for the photo and the advice Maurice. You're correct, it is fo the '98 2.5 tip. I will search Pelican Parts for the new AOS parts. Before I head off into DIY land, do the symptoms (stalling and/or severe loss of power at acceleration and backfiring) sound like AOS problems to you? How can I check to be sure? Many thanks!

  10. I'm having serious backfire and power loss issues at cold start so I just removed my MAF to clean it. It had hardly any dirt on it, the pins and the mirror are almost spotless. Put it back and no change, still same problem. There is also this "sucking" sound in the engine which leads me to think its a vacuum leak, possibly at the AOS. What parts do I need to replace the AOS and what does it cost...? Thanks for your help.

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