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toddel68

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Everything posted by toddel68

  1. toddel68
    You're welcome. There's nothing sweeter than the feeling of successfully completing a mod on your car. Especially if a cold beer is waiting :clapping:
  2. toddel68
    Hi Joe, I went from CDR22 to Traffic Pro Highspeed on my 99 C4 (no Bose but amp) and the way you described it is exactly how it's done. Just jumper the two wires and the amp should be supplied with power. No need to disconnect anything prior to that. I guess right now you can SEE everything working fine and the bars will move when you adjust the volume but no sound at all!? Thorsten
  3. toddel68
    Hi Superhuman, you might want to read this:Whistling noise from passenger window Sounds like the same fix.
  4. toddel68
    I just realized that I never told the end of the story: Well I went to the dealer which had replaced the door and made him fix the problem under warranty. Basically what they did is insert a piece of foam rubber cord of about 25cm in the overlapping lips of the door seal running along the a pillar. When I picked the car up I thought they had adjusted the window according to Porsches specs because after a quick run on the autobahn I found the noise was gone. Since I'm curious I inspected the area and found a bump in the door seal which turned out to be the the mentioned rubber cord. The moment I put my hands on it the whole thing just fell out. Well I was p***d of course. Immediately took the car to the dealer again and lectured the service manager (who I consider to be an a-hole) about adjusting the windows and how it is done. From the way they looked at me I could tell they didn't even know what I was talking about which left me almost speechless. I also stated that I don't consider stuffing some foam in there a Porsche-like fix. I finally ended up with a glued-in rubber cord and a non-whistling window. Needless to say this backed up my decision to never go there again. I'm not a home right now but will add a pic as soon as I come home. Thorsten
  5. toddel68
    Temperature sure is a factor as well as the pattern of the road surface. One hard bump will only cause the new 'birrrr' sound from somewhere around the rear windshield. Small repetitive bumps which have a regular pattern will cause the car to swing and result in the ticking noise from the roof. tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick After my last try to repair it it was quiet too during the following testdrive. I must say I was almost relieved when the sound was back the next morning. I wouldn't believe it until it was gone for at least a week. No cliffs here but I'm ready to sink the car in the harbour. Thorsten
  6. toddel68
    Yes I did. But other than the spot I already knew about I couldn't touch anything else that would make the rattle stop. Mainly because the area of the tilt mechanism is hard to reach from inside. I wasn't in the mood for roof surfing :D Thorsten
  7. toddel68
    Just a quick update. I had the roof lining off (again) and looked at the bracing sections Glenn mentioned. Everything seem to be real solid and I put some more felt tape at the area of the frame that spans the roof lining around the cutout area. Well - needless to say it was useless. I guess I'll just give up and live with it. Especially since I lately got a new r attle from the rear window area which has already been modified with the foam rubber cord according to TSB6420. Taking the lining off to often will not do any good to all the clamps and plastics, I guess. I've added a photo off the area shown in my first post up here with the lining off. As I said the roof is quiet as soon as I put my hand on the circled area. Only slight pressure is needed. Meanwhile I've come to think it must be the tilting mechanism itself which is located right above the bar shown in the pic. This would make sense since only a few millimeter tilt of the roof is neede to silence the **** thing. Thorsten
  8. toddel68
    Thanks Kim - I knew I saw it somewhere. Now I know why I couldn't find it using the search function. :cursing: Thorsten
  9. toddel68
    Hi guys, I'm thinking about buying a used PSE. This one is on sale for the third time know. It was sold once but according to the seller it was returned since 'the buyer owned a recent C4S'. The ad says it comes with a new original set of hoses and wires, the switch and all parts needed. Looking at the photo would you say that's true? Also I thought I saw a part list once but can't find the thread anymore. Anyone who can point it out? Thanks, Thorsten
  10. toddel68
    G'day mate, first of all I have no idea where yesterdays reply went...Maybe the same ghost that lives in my roof made it disappear. :eek: Well - I had already ruled out the possibility of the rubber flap hitting the roof by covering all over with felt tape. (had to replace it before though since it wasn't there anymore). The most frustrating thing about it is that I have promised myself not to buy a PSE before the roof rattle is fixed :cursing: So maybe Loren or Toolpants could give me instructions regarding the location of the epoxy bonding surfaces. Thorsten
  11. toddel68
    Not really. Until now I've spent lots of hours in fixing it, pulling the roof lining off about six or seven times. I lubricated here and there and put felt tape almost everywhere. Of course I followed all the TSBs available for that area. Only to find out it's still there. So far I've traced the noise down to the tilt mechanism on the drivers side because the noise is gone immediately when I tilt the roof. Nevertheless I still can't figure out what could causes it. I've touched every single part and all of it seems to be rock solid. Frustration is killing me. Why do you ask? Do you have the same problem? Thorsten
  12. toddel68
    Not a good week for 911s in Germany. There was a 9964S with 67000km and 2years 5days with total failure as well as a 2001 with 85000km that failed. Both were reported in www.elfertreff.de this week. Scary!
  13. toddel68
    Obviously not... @happy911: if you are talking about my bike incident back then - yes I went away okay. My shoulder hurt for a few weeks and my leather clothes looked about the same as the seats in the Boxster. People were staring at me quite a bit when I pulled off at the next gas station :eek: Guess I looked like Jason after a hard night of slaughter :P Thorsten
  14. toddel68
    Looks like a pheasant. Find this quite remarkable. I had a duck-size bird of prey hit me on the shoulder a few years ago when I was going 220+ on my Suzuki. Looking at the pictures I'm even more surprised that I managed to stay on the bike back then. BTW 'Hier' = 'here' :P Thorsten
  15. toddel68
    Korrekt! :P Thorsten
  16. toddel68
    :offtopic: There is a reason why mechanics in the airline business have to follow the work order line by line even if they have done the job a thousand times before. I changed my mechanic because he obviously NEVER read the manual for the adjustments necessary on my passenger side window.
  17. toddel68
    This topic has been covered quite a few times and I think the common understanding was that it's quite normal for the 996 (earlier even more) with standard aerodynamics to FEEL a little unstable at high speeds. :drive: That doesn't necessarily mean it is. The fact that the steering is very direct adds to that. I get the same feeling in my C4 but until now I never went airborne at speeds 170+. Even not with gusty headwinds. No comparison with my buddy's Vanquish though :P If you are in doubt you should have your steering checked of course, but again the Porsche is no high speed cruiser like a Benz S-class or BMW 7 series. BTW: Funny how everybody thinks it's much more safer to go fast on the german autobahn than on a deserted Nevada highway just because you're allowed to. A car changing onto your lane at 100 km/h while you are at 280 is not funny. Apart from that I'd say 70% of our autobahn have a speed limit between 100 and 120 km/h anyway. Thorsten
  18. toddel68
    After my second mail they finally answered my question. There's no way of dimming the mirror, not even manually. So I'm not gonna buy it since driving on the Autobahn is annoying enough already with my standard (manual) mirror.
  19. toddel68
    Don't ask Glenn. Presently I'm seeing a therapist and after a few sessions I should be able to live with the rattle. :rolleyes: Serious, I know everything there is to know about the sunroof now and know exactly where to apply slight pressure to make the rattle stop. But still I am not able to find what causes it exactly, let alone fix it. As soon as I tilt the roof, the rattle is gone but when I dismount the roof lining everything up there seems to be rock solid. Guess I had it off about 10 times now spending about as much hours with no luck. :cursing: I have a similar but smaller Motorola unit but it doesn't blend in the car's interior that nicely and volume certainly is an issue above 120km/h (but that might be a specific german problem) so I might give the vossor a shot. Would be great if they had integrated the self dimming function in the mirror but I still have to wait for them to answer my mail. Thorsten
  20. toddel68
    Hi, just came across this product: Any experiences with it? Thought it might be a clean integration in the car if I hardwire the power and maybe even connect it to the telephone in of my Traffic Pro somehow. It's just on sale for 100€ at "OBI" here in Germany. Don't have no idea though how they solved the dimming problem but wrote them an email to find out. The magazine linked tested it "best buy" and "excellent" but that's just one opinion and I know with the noise in our cars it's always a problem with the volume. Thorsten
  21. toddel68
    Well if you have heated seats you should also have the buttons to switch them on <_< Or did the previous owner have the console deleted? (Which you don't have of course if it's a GT3 but the switches should be there anyway) Thorsten
  22. toddel68
    Thanks Sandy!
  23. toddel68
    Great Sandy, never heard of Digikey but they even seem to have an online shop here in Germany. Do you have the part no. of the LED you used? I could just order an identical one then. Thorsten
  24. toddel68
    Sounds like overkill to me. Replacing the red light with an amber ( or green) one would do the trick for me. Is that a job an electronic nerd like me could do? Any idea about the specs of the in-switch LED? Thorsten
  25. toddel68
    Your right, that would be even cooler. Any ideas somebody?
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