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toddel68

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Everything posted by toddel68

  1. Don't think so, since they've raised the price over here in Germany as well. Since the threads on muffler repair have received lots of hits :-) Thorsten
  2. I have a sound I would describe similar or even as if somebody was honking in a distance. I always thought it's coming from the motor bay and the sound was never really loud. Thanks to my PSE I usually only noticed it when waiting at a traffic light. Lately, when I got out of the car while the motor was running, I realized it's coming from the right front where the horn is located. So I guess it could also be a leakage current getting to the horn. Maybe you have the same problem. Personally I chose to ignore it for now. Thorsten
  3. Did you tape the alarm contact or tape the side of the radio or even cut the wire? If you didn't you're just seeing the system behaving as designed. Thorsten
  4. This is the type of journey that everybody thinks about when it comes to 'Americans visiting Europe'. :P The mileage you're trying to cover should take 8 weeks or even more. Do you have relatives in Russia or Poland? Otherwise you'll have to park you car in a public garage which sounds like a pretty insane idea. There's a reason why car theft isn't covered by most west european insurances if you take the car over to eastern europe. In any case: Good luck Thorsten
  5. I don't get it. Isn't the factory-like PSE approved by authorities in Switzerland? I was at the TÜV here in Germany last week and when they fired up my car those engineers started laughing. They think it's funny that the PSE is legal but never really questioned the fact. I didn't even bother to switch on the speed cut-out since they don't testdrive it. Thorsten
  6. Notice there is also a TSB on this in the TSB section. However, if you follow it an place a rubber foam in there you still have to use some silicone spray every few month. My 99C4 has been doing this for the last 3 years so it's become kind of a maintenance procedure to me. Thorsten
  7. I forgot: 5) Become a contributing member to see TSBs and stuff and support Loren. 1a) Get clear sidemarkers
  8. 1) I have no clue. Mine fills up nicely once I've found the best nozzle position. If I don't it won't even stay on 'auto fillup' for more than a second. 2) In my case it were the screws of the speakers which had come loose. 20min job for one door. I think there's a thread somewhere showing disassembly of the door. 3) No idea, maybe it was treated with the wrong product before or the previous owner always had the same parking spot only exposing the passenger seat. Use a good leather care milk. Can't recommend anything since the one I use is only sold in Germany. 4) I have a Bluetooth Han
  9. I came up with this question about two years ago. While some reported to have used the programming in reverse thing on their cars I never got that trick to work on mine (MY99 996C4 with seat memory). I went to the dealer where they use the PST to switch it on or off. Mine did it for free while the car was in for inspection as well as activating the autlock feature.Thorsten
  10. Unfortunately the english file misses the connection table for Boxster (986) which also works for 996. For those two the numbers would be: 8-1-9-6-3. These are the VERY small numbers on the back of the hazard light switch connector. You just use the cables running there to splice in the B3-Module. In other words: - the red cable of the module goes to the black cable of hazard light switch - the blue cable of the module goes to the black-white-green cable of hazard light switch - the yellow cable of the module goes to the black-white cable of hazard light switch - the white cable of
  11. Hi, don't know if the issue has been covered yet, but I was always bothered by the fact that the 996 didn't have the same feature when it comes to lane change as my benz has. There I can touch the turnlight switch shortly and it will automatically come on three times. This made me change lanes without signaling quite often in my Porsche since I forgot to hold it as long as needed. I found a mosfet-module sold by CXI which does the job nicely and can be installed within 20 minutes. Just need to pull out the hazard light switch cables and clip into the according the instructions that come wit
  12. Sorry to hear about your surgery Kim. At least I have a perspective now what will happen to me after another 17 on the job :rolleyes: Anyway, I hope you get well much sooner than your son-in-law must hope you will :P Regards, Thorsten
  13. Same problem here, anyone knows a part # for those plastic inserts? Is it possible to remove the roof rack holders completely and replace with a 'non holder' roof joint strip? Thorsten
  14. Hi Glenn, did the brake light LEDs at least work? Maybe you just have a polarity issue. Other than normal bulbs LEDs need the correct polarity to work right. Thorsten
  15. Paul, that's exactly what I thought. AFAIK the check valve is there to prevent air from flowing back. By reversing it you just wouldn't be able to build up the vacuum for the flaps to operate (to quiet). Just my 2 cents. Thorsten
  16. I've been running exactly the same Hankook tires for quite a while now (1 1/2years) on my 99C4 and IMHO they perform much better than the original Contis. Same grip, much less noise and less wear. N-rating might have been a good thing when there were only a few cars out on the streets able to perform as fast as a Porsche. Now there are so many fast and even heavier cars out there that I can see no reason why any other high performance tire shouldn't do the job. They all have the stiffened sidewalls and and high speed stability (not really an issue on public roads in the U.S. :lol: ) Porsche
  17. Sorry it took me quite a while to give some feedback but I wanted to make sure that my engine is in a stable state now. For several weeks now I haven't heard anything from the engine and even after a final 'test' with the car resting for two weeks at temps around freezing point there was no ticking. So the conclusion seems to be that the engine needed some break in time with the 5w-50 oil. (I wish I could offer a mor logical explanation). Overal I'd say the engine is running much smoother now when idling warm. But that might just be an illusion and certainly not enough reason to start the
  18. Oh please let's discuss this! Or should we rather start the oil discussion? <_<
  19. Hi, I recently get a ticking noise about 30 seconds after a cold start of the engine which resembles the knocking noise of an old diesel engine although not as loud. Most of time it's tick-tick-tick with about o.2s pause in between the ticks and then again after 5s or so tick-tick-tick again . After that everything is normal.I'll try to link a (bad quality) sound file I've recorded. The file gives a wrong impression about the volume of the ticks though. It's not as loud as it seems.The whole thing lasts about 30s. The car is a 99 C4 with 78300km on the clock. I already had my 80000km inspe
  20. Yes , it should be in the inner part of the seal. Actually this is exactly the same location where my whistle came from so there's a good chance to fix it. I'd say its possible to adjust the door to give more pressure to that point but I don't think it's a good idea if the door's overall fit is okay. As Kelvin said: not really a sophisticated solution but for me it works. Thorsten
  21. Thanks Keith, I knew someone must have done it already. Thorsten
  22. Hi Kim, that's what I was planning to do. I'm just not sure if the one button of my key would be in the correct position for it to work correctly with on of the two button surfaces of the design key. Would be a little stupid though if I had to hit the hood button to open the doors. Thorsten
  23. According to the TSB the design key does not work for 3-button keys but what about 1-button keys like on my 99 C4? No info about that in the TSB. Has anybody done it and can confirm it works? Thorsten
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