toddel68

Thanks guys,

I just put a jumper between the two pins and voila...... sweet music!!

Put the TrafficPro back in the dash and the A/C control unit and trim piece.

Now enjoying a beer with a little grin on my face.

The fit of the two top screws on the side guides for the A/C controls (which were moved from the lower console with a console delete installed) seemed a little sloppy. I believe I read somewhere that this was a problem for someone else. If anyone can direct me to that post I would appreciate it.

Thanks again for all the help.

You're welcome. There's nothing sweeter than the feeling of successfully completing a mod on your car. Especially if a cold beer is waiting :clapping:

I hooked up the TrafficPro model 4773 to the two connectors that came off the prior CDR 220. Only thing that doesn't work are the speakers. Seems this has been discovered and I guess a wire has to be 'moved from Connector A pin 5 to Connector C1 pin 6.

What is the best way to do this? Can I just solder a wire between the two wires or must I cut the wire going to the connector A and then solder to C1 pin 6

What I'm trying to find out is it OK to leave the original wires intact and just connect the two with a 'jumper'?

:help:

Joe

Hi Joe,

I went from CDR22 to Traffic Pro Highspeed on my 99 C4 (no Bose but amp) and the way you described it is exactly how it's done. Just jumper the two wires and the amp should be supplied with power. No need to disconnect anything prior to that.

I guess right now you can SEE everything working fine and the bars will move when you adjust the volume but no sound at all!?

Thorsten

I recieved a PM from a member a few days ago describing having the same problem. It was resolved by his mechanic adding some shims at the A-pillar to get a tighter seal between the window and the weather strip. I'm going to look into this, but i haven't had time yet.

PS-Folding the mirror had no effect.

Hi Superhuman,

you might want to read this:Whistling noise from passenger window

Sounds like the same fix.

I just realized that I never told the end of the story: Well I went to the dealer which had replaced the door and made him fix the problem under warranty. Basically what they did is insert a piece of foam rubber cord of about 25cm in the overlapping lips of the door seal running along the a pillar. When I picked the car up I thought they had adjusted the window according to Porsches specs because after a quick run on the autobahn I found the noise was gone. Since I'm curious I inspected the area and found a bump in the door seal which turned out to be the the mentioned rubber cord. The moment I put my hands on it the whole thing just fell out. Well I was p***d of course. Immediately took the car to the dealer again and lectured the service manager (who I consider to be an a-hole) about adjusting the windows and how it is done. From the way they looked at me I could tell they didn't even know what I was talking about which left me almost speechless. I also stated that I don't consider stuffing some foam in there a Porsche-like fix.

I finally ended up with a glued-in rubber cord and a non-whistling window. Needless to say this backed up my decision to never go there again.

I'm not a home right now but will add a pic as soon as I come home.

Thorsten

Thorsten,

Does your car always make the ticking sound? Mine seems to be playing with me. Sometimes the sound is there, and sometimes there is no sound. This morning, I was driving to work and thought the sound had disappeared, only to have it return on my way home this evening.

Chris

Temperature sure is a factor as well as the pattern of the road surface. One hard bump will only cause the new 'birrrr' sound from somewhere around the rear windshield. Small repetitive bumps which have a regular pattern will cause the car to swing and result in the ticking noise from the roof.

tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick

After my last try to repair it it was quiet too during the following testdrive. I must say I was almost relieved when the sound was back the next morning. I wouldn't believe it until it was gone for at least a week.

No cliffs here but I'm ready to sink the car in the harbour.

Thorsten

Stupid question but....

Have you asked someone to drive the car while you sit in the passenger seat with the lining down, and try to pinpoint where the problem is?

Yes I did. But other than the spot I already knew about I couldn't touch anything else that would make the rattle stop. Mainly because the area of the tilt mechanism is hard to reach from inside.

I wasn't in the mood for roof surfing :D

Thorsten

Just a quick update. I had the roof lining off (again) and looked at the bracing sections Glenn mentioned. Everything seem to be real solid and I put some more felt tape at the area of the frame that spans the roof lining around the cutout area.

Well - needless to say it was useless. I guess I'll just give up and live with it. Especially since I lately got a new r attle from the rear window area which has already been modified with the foam rubber cord according to TSB6420. Taking the lining off to often will not do any good to all the clamps and plastics, I guess.

I've added a photo off the area shown in my first post up here with the lining off. As I said the roof is quiet as soon as I put my hand on the circled area. Only slight pressure is needed.

Meanwhile I've come to think it must be the tilting mechanism itself which is located right above the bar shown in the pic. This would make sense since only a few millimeter tilt of the roof is neede to silence the **** thing.

Thorsten

Thanks Kim - I knew I saw it somewhere. Now I know why I couldn't find it using the search function. :cursing:

Thorsten

Hi guys,

I'm thinking about buying a used PSE. This one is on sale for the third time know. It was sold once but according to the seller it was returned since 'the buyer owned a recent C4S'.

The ad says it comes with a new original set of hoses and wires, the switch and all parts needed.

Looking at the photo would you say that's true?

Also I thought I saw a part list once but can't find the thread anymore. Anyone who can point it out?

Thanks,

Thorsten

G'day Thorsten

When the dealer was working on my roof problem he told me that there were some bracing sections which are glued to the underside of roof with an epoxy. I did not see the car while they were working on it so cant describe them but maybe Loren has a diagram of that section. I spoke to the mechanic when they had finally fixed the problem after the 5th roof roof lining removal. He said that the original epoxy that Porsche used became brittle and separated, when the car flexed you would get a rattle or ticking noise.

I could stop the noise by pressing on the roof lining just behind the sunroof on the drivers side, in my case on the right side.

He said they removed the bracing pieces and re epoxyed them. No noise since and that was two years ago. Not sure how they are removed, maybe they were able to apply more epoxy without actually taking them off. They kept the car for a few days after the repair to let the epoxy set.

The other fix I mentioned previously of applying silicone grease to the rear sunroof rubber flap was done at the same time. When I took the car for a short test drive there was still a ticking noise coming from the sunroof, this stopped if it was tilted up. I went back into the workshop, they tilted the roof and covered that rubber flap with quite a lot of grease and the noise stopped.

I hope this helps anyone with this problem, I know what you are going through.

Glenn

G'day mate,

first of all I have no idea where yesterdays reply went...Maybe the same ghost that lives in my roof made it disappear. :eek:

Well - I had already ruled out the possibility of the rubber flap hitting the roof by covering all over with felt tape. (had to replace it before though since it wasn't there anymore).

The most frustrating thing about it is that I have promised myself not to buy a PSE before the roof rattle is fixed :cursing:

So maybe Loren or Toolpants could give me instructions regarding the location of the epoxy bonding surfaces.

Thorsten

All,

Any update to this saga?

Not really. Until now I've spent lots of hours in fixing it, pulling the roof lining off about six or seven times. I lubricated here and there and put felt tape almost everywhere. Of course I followed all the TSBs available for that area. Only to find out it's still there. So far I've traced the noise down to the tilt mechanism on the drivers side because the noise is gone immediately when I tilt the roof. Nevertheless I still can't figure out what could causes it. I've touched every single part and all of it seems to be rock solid. Frustration is killing me.

Why do you ask? Do you have the same problem?

Thorsten

Not a good week for 911s in Germany. There was a 9964S with 67000km and 2years 5days with total failure as well as a 2001 with 85000km that failed. Both were reported in www.elfertreff.de this week.

Scary!

C'mon, this has been doing the rounds for over a year now. I thought everyone had seen it by now...

Obviously not...

@happy911: if you are talking about my bike incident back then - yes I went away okay. My shoulder hurt for a few weeks and my leather clothes looked about the same as the seats in the Boxster. People were staring at me quite a bit when I pulled off at the next gas station :eek:

Guess I looked like Jason after a hard night of slaughter :P

Thorsten

Looks like a pheasant. Find this quite remarkable. I had a duck-size bird of prey hit me on the shoulder a few years ago when I was going 220+ on my Suzuki. Looking at the pictures I'm even more surprised that I managed to stay on the bike back then.

BTW 'Hier' = 'here' :P

Thorsten

its actually the german word "manuell" and i can say with 100% authority that it means "manual" :D

Korrekt!

:P Thorsten

The TSB will have more detail than you likely want. Most of the techs I know read the TSBs then after they have done a few they don't need to refer to them again.

:offtopic: There is a reason why mechanics in the airline business have to follow the work order line by line even if they have done the job a thousand times before. I changed my mechanic because he obviously NEVER read the manual for the adjustments necessary on my passenger side window.

This topic has been covered quite a few times and I think the common understanding was that it's quite normal for the 996 (earlier even more) with standard aerodynamics to FEEL a little unstable at high speeds. :drive: That doesn't necessarily mean it is. The fact that the steering is very direct adds to that. I get the same feeling in my C4 but until now I never went airborne at speeds 170+. Even not with gusty headwinds. No comparison with my buddy's Vanquish though :P

If you are in doubt you should have your steering checked of course, but again the Porsche is no high speed cruiser like a Benz S-class or BMW 7 series.

BTW: Funny how everybody thinks it's much more safer to go fast on the german autobahn than on a deserted Nevada highway just because you're allowed to. A car changing onto your lane at 100 km/h while you are at 280 is not funny. Apart from that I'd say 70% of our autobahn have a speed limit between 100 and 120 km/h anyway.

Thorsten

After my second mail they finally answered my question. There's no way of dimming the mirror, not even manually. So I'm not gonna buy it since driving on the Autobahn is annoying enough already with my standard (manual) mirror.

Hi Thorsten, hows the roof.

Don't ask Glenn. Presently I'm seeing a therapist and after a few sessions I should be able to live with the rattle. :rolleyes:

Serious, I know everything there is to know about the sunroof now and know exactly where to apply slight pressure to make the rattle stop. But still I am not able to find what causes it exactly, let alone fix it. As soon as I tilt the roof, the rattle is gone but when I dismount the roof lining everything up there seems to be rock solid. Guess I had it off about 10 times now spending about as much hours with no luck. :cursing:

I just bought a similar item http://www.blueant.com.au/supertooth2_compatibility.htm

It's a bit more basic than the unit you have found but the technology is probably the same. The Supertooth works well in my 996. clips onto the sunvisor using a magnetic contact. Volume in not a problem.

I have a similar but smaller Motorola unit but it doesn't blend in the car's interior that nicely and volume certainly is an issue above 120km/h (but that might be a specific german problem) so I might give the vossor a shot. Would be great if they had integrated the self dimming function in the mirror but I still have to wait for them to answer my mail.

Thorsten

Hi, just came across this product:

Any experiences with it? Thought it might be a clean integration in the car if I hardwire the power and maybe even connect it to the telephone in of my Traffic Pro somehow. It's just on sale for 100€ at "OBI" here in Germany. Don't have no idea though how they solved the dimming problem but wrote them an email to find out. The magazine linked tested it "best buy" and "excellent" but that's just one opinion and I know with the noise in our cars it's always a problem with the volume.

Thorsten

I just did not know if it has the heated option? It has the full carbon and full leather interior, I was wondering if maybe the previous owner had replaced the batwing and did not connect the heated seats back, as the car was dealer owned in Pompano beach.

Well if you have heated seats you should also have the buttons to switch them on <_<

Or did the previous owner have the console deleted? (Which you don't have of course if it's a GT3 but the switches should be there anyway)

Thorsten

Thanks Sandy!

Like you, I found the glare from the red LED to be annoying in my '99 996 coupe. My solution was to replace it with a green LED I purchased from Digikey. It takes some careful soldering with a low wattage iron, but green is a lot easier on the eyes. It also seems more appropriate for indicating the doors are locked. It sometimes is a little hard to see in direct sunlight, so I don't think I'd recommend it for a 996 Cab., or a Boxster. BTW, I also tried an amber LED, but still found it a bit annoying at night.

Great Sandy,

never heard of Digikey but they even seem to have an online shop here in Germany. Do you have the part no. of the LED you used? I could just order an identical one then.

Thorsten

Yes you can achieve this with some extra minor electronic circuitry and a dual colour LED (many Dual Colour Leds come in Green/Red or Yellow/Red or even Green Yellow - some are now appearing with Blue + an extra colour etc if that takes your fancy).

A couple of transistors and 3 or 4 resistors would allow you to achieve this...

Sounds like overkill to me. Replacing the red light with an amber ( or green) one would do the trick for me. Is that a job an electronic nerd like me could do? Any idea about the specs of the in-switch LED?

Thorsten

What would be cool is if we could figure out a way to have the LED in the amber color rather than the red color. THe heated seats have the capacity to go from Red to Amber to off, so perhaps there is an amber LED that can fulfill this role?

Your right, that would be even cooler. Any ideas somebody?