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Jay H

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About Jay H

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  • From
    WI USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Boxster
    1990 964
    1984 911
  1. Good service history is always a plus when selling a car, even non Porsche vehicles. It certainly won't hurt to have a water tight dealer service history for the car, but it's very expensive to pay for all the stuff that an aging sports car needs at the dealership. As the car ages, I think the dealer service history won't be as vital as just proving that oil changes and other fluid flushes were done on a timely manner by yourself or a qualified shop. Any RMS/IMS issues should be well documented however due to how much attention these areas get by used car buyers that have done some research. At this point in time, the dealer service history is not on file with a master database that any Porsche dealership can pull up, so the dealer service history is only as good as your records unless you trade in your car where you have had all the work done. If you can DIY, then save the cash and DIY. Document it well and to many purchasers of a used 911, talking with a competant owner who serviced his/her car themselves goes a long way to establishing how the car was cared for. Any dealership that you try to trade the car in at will start low on their offer anyway regardless of how much dealer service history your car has. You can always use that history as a negotiating point, but it won't add massive value. The money you save by doing it yourself will far outweight any value gained by having all the service work done at a dealership.
  2. The '99's came with a more robust IMS bearing than the 2000 to 2005 cars. The "D" chunk issue seems to be more of a concern with some of the '99's. Or, if you are still losing sleep about the IMS bearing failure issue, how about instead of purchasing that $3,500 warranty that (as correctly pointed out above by Mike) may not cover much, why not invest in one of the aftermarket fixes for the IMS bearing issue? Spend $2,000 on that car opening it up and installing the more robust IMS bearing and flange that are available from the aftermarket. When it comes time to sell, that investment in the aftermarket fix may make the car more attractive to the next buyer verses having an aftermarket warranty that may not fix anything. If I had to do it all over again and bought an older Boxster, I'd buy the car, immediatey take it to my trusted shop, have my mechanic install one of the aftermarket fixes, then drive the wheels off of it never worrying about it again. I could be way off base, but I suspect a new factory motor with installation and the "while you're in there" costs could run you $15,000. Good luck, Jay 08 987 90 911 84 911
  3. I agree that this IMS bearing issue is real. I personally know of a couple M96 motors that have failed from this exact issue. However, I know of many more Boxsters that have had zero issues. The odds are in your favor that nothing will happen. If I was to buy an older Boxster that I wanted to keep or had to heavily rely on it and had the proof that after market fixes were solid and reliable, I'd spend the $1500 and make the motor near bulletproof. I bet as time goes by, the IMS bearing update that is available from various vendors will prove to be reliable and many people will just spend the $1500 or so and have the update done verses risking the $15k that is needed to replace a destroyed motor. I've always wondered about why Porsche has these issues with this motor... I would think that Porsche would have done some extensive testing on the motors to see how durable these units are. I work in the auto industry and we are required to do certain amounts of durability testing to insure our product will hold up to certain standards. So, I would assume Porsche tested various versions of the M96 motor to see what breaks and what doesn't break. Most testing is done quickly as compared to the typical lifetime of a automobile. Meaning that if you are testing durability, the testing mechanism repeats a procedure over and over in a continuous manner until the testing object breaks. Is it safe to assume that the M96 motor was tested for durability and was run in a near continuous manner to simulate lots of miles of use? Did they take into consideration that some of these motors would sit for weeks on end in a garage and then taken out, used slightly and put back over the course of decades? In other words, were the test motors flogged for "X" amount of miles in a nearly continous manner on the bench or in test mules running for hours on end and deemed O.K. for production based on that type of testing? However, many of our motors are not run on a daily basis and the lack of use and oil contamination takes it's toll on that IMS bearing and those conditions were not tested (or could not have been tested due to time constraints)? Therefore, would a daily driver's IMS bearing hold up much better than that same bearing in a garage queen car that is not used on a regular basis? Again, this is just my $.02 and is not based on any significant data. Jay 08 987 90 911 84 911
  4. I just finished an oil change on my '08 after 4,000 miles on the oil. I bought the car new, changed the oil at 2,000 miles on the odometer, then now again at 6,000 miles. A bit of reading on various sites including RennTech will reveal that some of the older Boxster engines have intermediate shaft bearing failures. While it has yet to be determined what exactly causes the intermediate shaft bearing to fail, long drain intervals seem to be the initial culprit. Again, there are no hard facts to prove this theory is 100% correct, but oil is relatively cheap, your motor is relatively expensive, so an oil change every 3,000 to 6,000 miles is good insurance. These are expensive machines, so regular oil changes could help reduce the risks of developing issues with that intermediate shaft bearing (even though the design was reported to be improved for the model year 2006 and forward). Yes, Porsche recommends a drain interval of 12,000 miles or 1 year (which ever comes first), but if you can DIY, an oil change is about $60 to $80 depending on your source of parts and only about 30 minutes of your time. Jay 08 987 90 964 84 911
  5. I am running the N spec Continental ContiSport Contact 3's on my '08. I use my car as a daily driver and I couldn't be happier with the Continentals. They handle great, are quiet and do very well in heavy rain. A great tire. I've used cheap, non "N" spec tires on my Porsche and keep coming back to N spec and Michelins. You get what you pay for.
  6. One more thing Todd... Don't fight it. If you have wanted a Porsche since you were a little kid, you're f'd. There is no denying the Porsche urge, so you won't rest until you have one. Then you'll own two. If you have the garage space, you'll then have three. They are like a drug addiction. Don't justify your purchase to anyone. Just go buy the Porsche.
  7. I use a lower pressure (i.e. cheaper) high pressure washer to wash the underside of my Boxster during the winter. I believe my electric pressure washer maxes out at under 980 psi, so while it doesn't clean siding and concrete like a gas powered 2400 psi washer, it's much less damaging for the underside of a Boxster and does a good job of getting the salt off. In Wisconsin we get enough above freezing days that I can get out the pressure washer several times a winter and wash off that under carriage. The "wand" on my washer is plenty long enough that I can reach anywhere under the car. Porsche advises in the owner's manual to not use a high pressure water source on the alternator area of the motor.
  8. The CPO status of a used Boxster/Cayman is also good to insure that wear items like brakes and tires are at or over 50% remaining use yet. So, the tires need to be "N" spec tires and at least 50% of tread depth all the way around in order for the Porsche to be CPO'd. The brake pads and rotors also need to be at 50% or less wear to keep the CPO rating. I've read of a only a couple 2005 model year Boxster/Caymans with failed intermediate shaft bearings. However, for model year 2006, Porsche updated the intermediate shaft bearing to a much beefier bearing (even larger than the 1997 to 1999 bearings), so for now, that larger bearing seems to be doing the trick since I've not read any posts of '06 to '08 cars having IMS bearing issues. So far so good. However, you may wish to try to confirm when exactly Porsche put this larger IMS bearing in the M97 motors for model year 2006. As for other items to look for on a used Boxster/Cayman, be sure to check those tires for tread depth and what model of tire is on the car. Inspect the brakes for wear, insure there is no clutch slipping, check the top operation (on a Boxster) many times during your test drives, turn on all the accesories, insure the A/C is functioning, window regulators (indexing) is working properly, the flat tire goop is present, the theft deterant lug nut socket is in place in the trunk, the stereo is operating, A/C blows cold, etc., etc. Also, does the driver's seat leather look more worn than it should based on the miles on the car? Is the gear shift all pounded up from shifting or the owner's rings? Do the pedals seem to show wear as compared to the mileage? All of these little clues can add up to help you determine how much or how little the car was loved. I also would scroll through the on board computer (especially on the 2005 and newer since it was standard equipment) to see what kind of averages the computer is showing for gas mileage and average speed. While these readouts can easily be reset at any point, sometimes that info is left to accumulate over thousands of miles and may indicate how the car was driven. Low mpg may mean the person drove the car hard and low average speed may indicate a lot of in town driving. Again, these are not real solid clues on a car's past, but it's worth scrolling through for a look to see if you find any trends in how this car was treated. Since these later Boxsters and Caymans are pretty robust cars and if the car has lower miles, you shouldn't see too many service records for the cars other than regular maintenance. I'm on my second Boxster and have two older 911's. There really is no substitute for how a Porsche drives. You'll love the Boxster or Cayman experience! Good luck! Jay 08 987 90 911 84 911
  9. I've been storing my Porsches over winter for 15+ plus years and have always used Stabil fuel stabilizer. I've never had any fuel related issues with using this additive. I also have a car that gets driven about 150-300 miles per year and have fuel that is 2+ years old in the tank that still burns well enough. A double dose of Stabil will help extend the life of fuel if you need to store the car more than a year. Keep in mind that reformulated fuels in use in many places in the US will start to deteriorate after 30 days. Non reformulated fuel (pure gasoline) has a shelf life of about 90 days. Jay 08 987 90 911 84 911
  10. I can't take credit for the answer on the head unit aux in. Thanks to Berty for that info.
  11. I'll state first that none of these stock systems (Bose or Sound Package Plus) are audiophile sound systems. I've got a modest "reference" system at home, have been a professional musician since a kid an have done enough audio engineering to get my way around a mixing console easy enough. I'm pretty picky when it comes to audio. However, for the price that we pay (keeping in mind how Porsche charges for most options), it's not a bad set up. I've got the Sound Package Plus on my new Boxster. Right when I bought the car, the sound systems was not that great. However, these speakers need a decent break in period as well and the more that I crank on the system, the more I notice it's starting to warm up a bit. I still think new amps need a burn in period as well. I tied into the system last night with some good '80's synth pop and got her up to max volume on the head unit without clipping the amp or bottoming the drivers. Someone thought out the system a bit and didn't just toss junk in the car while meeting the price point. There is decent power in both systems if you eq it right. It does need some frequency adjustments that we just can't do with the two shelving bands we are stuck with on the '24 head unit, but I can run the system with loudness on to round out the system while driving, or if that's too much low end, +2 on the base contour and flat on the treble seems like a good set up for me. A pair of 8" drivers in the doors on the Sound Package Plus system makes for some nice tight base and you can move some air. I find the Bose sub pretty tubby, but it does produce base and both systems drop pretty low in frequency response. I have the stock audio systems in both my 1984 911 and my 1990 911. My '90 had the "upgraded" audio system with power amp and rear deck speakers (4" plates). Man, we've got it good with the stock systems in the Boxsters. I can't believe Porsche charged so much for the system in my '90. No headroom, horrid frequency response and just poor components. Bad. I won't go into how bad the stock system is on the '84 (single cone drivers in the doors and rear deck - geez, couldn't have Porsche sprung for a driver with at least a wizzer cone for some top end?). Again, if you really wanted an audiophile system in a car, a Boxster is probably not the best place to spend your money due to the loud noise floor. Berty, thanks for the pics of the rubber mats. I was wonder what those look like "in person". Those are my list before winter. Best, Jay 08 987
  12. I think the most popular option on the new 2009 Boxsters will be the $95 auxillary input on the dash... I'd love to see a shot of the back of the stock radio to see what that changer input looks like... There HAS to be some sort of cable around to just ad an auxillary in... I would think this current CD changer in these new cars have an analog left and right audio input from the changer unless it's now digital connection... Llyods products are pretty good, so I bet that they will fit quite good in the 987. I ordered Lloyds rubber mats for my 986 and they were cut perfect. BTW, outstanding Boxster in a classic color combo! Jay 08 987 90 911 84 911
  13. If the window regulator is breaking (or has broken), the window may move only a very slight amount, but not enough to clear the top seals when you pull on the door handle. I'm pretty inept mechanically, but ordered a new window regulator from Sunset for about $177 and fixed it myself in about 2-3 hours (I was going slow). Don't pay the dealer to do it, it's pretty easy. Use the links in juniinc's post above for instructions on how to do it yourself. Tip on replacing the regulator: When you need to loosen the screws that hold the glass in place, take note of the holes at the top of the doors that allow you to access the screws that hold the glass in with ease. There is a oval shaped plastic/styrofoam plug in those holes, but those holes make loosening the screws extremely easy with the window in the "up" position. Trying to loosen the screws with the window in the full down position is nearly impossible due to how the metal door blocks access to the screws. This will make sense if you attempt to try this on your own and you get to the point of removing the glass.
  14. And hopefully you are making a really good living off of Porsche's failures. The flip side to your hard labor (and profits) is that we, the owners, can make these design flawed cars much more bullet proof and enjoyable.
  15. Remember the 2.7 liter motors used in 911's from 1974 through 1977? Those motors failed at mileage as low as 30,000. Most of the warm climate motors were having major issues by 60,000 miles. Have you ever owned a 1989, 1990 or 1991 964 that had a cylinder to head leak that puked all over or made your car's value tank? What about the 3.2 liter motors from 1984 to 1989 that had their valve guides completely wear out by 60,000 miles. Ask a 1996 to 1998 993 owner if they enjoy the air injection issues that won't let them pass emissions anymore. Ask a 924 Turbo owner on how often they fix their car. What about the 928 owners with complex electrical issues that can't be resolved easily or cheaply either? Man, lots of complaining about how bad Porsche is... If you really hate these cars so much, you should sell them quickly and move on to another maker. I got sick of the issues with my 2002 986. So, I fixed it to the extent that it would make for good resale value and bought a brand new one with a 4 year, 50,000 mile warranty. If it breaks, Porsche can fix it. I'll trade it before the warranty gives up or fix it if it breaks out of warranty. I really enjoy driving these cars and nothing else compares in my mind. The days of hand built German cars that will last for 200,000 miles are long over. No one can built such mass market cars and compete successfully. I have a 1984 911 and a 1990 911. Those cars are built like tanks. Porsche will never do that again. Who can other than the boutique makers that produce cars in the hundreds, not thousands per year. However, give vendors like Jake enough time to really understand these issues and provide solutions and you'll find that a 986 can become a bullet proof car just like all these other models I list above that now have solid, aftermarket solutions to their problems. Prices for the fixes may even come down as time wears on and R&D costs can be absorbed through more sales. Yes, Porsche didn't get to solve all their issues right from the start. But, would you rather be driving an Accord or Camry? Seriously, have you driven one of those cars on a twisty back road or on a race track? Do you pull up to your local Dairy Queen car show in your Altima and expect people to look at it or ask you all kinds of questions about it? Those cars are bulletproof, but are insanely boring to drive and look at. If you want to drive fast, well handling, head turning, exceptional road feel German cars, you have to pay up. Anything else is a compromise.
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