amcleod1

Hi again Loren, I would say no it does not squeak when idle (engine hot or cold) or when revving. However, some more, squeak test results: All with A/C off and PSM on. Does NOT occur when engine COLD, at idle, when revving or whether braking in fwd or rev directions. However, there is some rear suspension "creaking" (but not the same "squeak") noise - more noticeable when car is nose level and down than nose up. Does NOT occur when engine HOT, at idle, when revving. Does NOT occur when engine HOT, when braking in reverse direction nose level, or nose up. DOES occur when engine HOT, when braking in fwd directions, both nose level and nose down, and in both drive and neutral. Squeaks and creaks more noticeable on the drivers side (remember this is a RHD car) and seem deeper/fwd in the engine bay than the belt area. I'm now starting to wonder if its rear suspension or exhaust movement. Perhaps "creaking" when cold and "squeaking" when hot. Or maybe its both - i.e 2 separate problems. Alex.

Hi Loren - I was thinking about that but since the squeaks only occur when the car is at normal operating temperature I was hesitant to try that as no water would be circulating ? I can make it let out a squeak or two every time, when hot, by releasing the brake pedal, letting the car roll forward and hit brake again. Would it rule in/rule out anything if I did same in reverse ? Alex.

Hi...an update.... I pulled the polyrib belt and checked all 8 pulleys for wobble. No wobbles whatsoever. I'm open to further suggestions on the cause or other diagnostics I could try to isolate ? Thanks in advance for any ideas here.

Hi - Thanks for the suggestions so far. I will look for the wobbly pulleys after the Xmas holidays as I was planing a 120,000km service in January anyway. Bit more info on the car itself: 996 C2 MY2000 TIP RHD (Australian).

Hi all, I have this mysterious squeaking sound that comes from the rear of my 996 only when braking to a stop and only when car has warmed up. Occasionally I think a can hear a squeak or two when idling. Any ideas on what it might be ???? Note: There are two runs in this 20sec video - first at walking pace, then second from traffic pace.

Hi - See TSB 7/04 on tyre sizes and wheels for a 996 Carerra under the DIY Menu. Gives you many options.

Hi, I have a MY2000 3.4L M96-01 engine, TIP with e-gas (M620 option) and NO secondary air injection (Australian delivery). I'm looking at replacing my AOS via dismantling the left intake manifold. While I'm in there I was thinking about replacing a number of the vent lines and vacuum lines that have hardened over time – or may break on disassembly/assembly. My problem is I can't seem to find a relevant diagrams or parts list. The ones I have all show a NON-e-gasconfiguration with secondary air injection. Does any one have or know where I could obtain: 1) A diagram of the vacuum lines /parts list for a MY2000 3.4L TIP with e-gas and no secondary air injection; and 2) A diagram of the crankcase ventlines / parts list for a MY2000 3.4L TIP with e-gas and no secondary airinjection PS: I'm currently using an Aug/2006 version of the Porsche parts list (update 203) and illustrations 107-10, 104-10, 108-05 don't show the e-gas/no secondary air configuration Thanks

41 - 1990 928 S4 Auto - sold 44 - 2000 996 C2 TIP

Does any one know if you can buy (and from where) upgrade ECU programs for a MY2000 C2 TIP ? - As mine's a TIP has anyone developed a program that auto-blips the throttle on a manual downshift (like comes with some of the newer model supercars) Thanks in advance. Aussie Alex.

After researching I was able to determine that the Porsche brand coolant is actually ELF Glacelf Supra Anti-Freeze. Links to sites that support this conclusion are listed at bottom of this post. Links for ELF Glacelf Supra Anti-Freeze Data Sheet: http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/127.pdf http://www.bombaydigital.com/arenared/1998/10/29/1 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=182 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15103 For those in Australia you can source ELF Glacelf Supra Anti-Freeze through www.elfoil.com.au. Price was A$5.00/litre (as at Oct/2009). Make sure it’s the pink organic product. I bought 15 x 1litre containers.

Update FYI: After about 5,000kms the same problem started to appear again (ABS/PSM fault lights under hard acceleration). Ultimately replaced the MAF as cleaning had no affect this time. Durametric measurement of the MAF output of both the new and old MAF sensors confirmed a faulty MAF.

good. add this to "mysterious porsche issues" forum. ( I wonder if a light silicone lube of the window seals would help?) not to steal this thread, but has anyone had screaching issues when adjusting the passenger seat, esp in moving it back? Hi, yes I currently have screaching issues when adjusting the passenger seat. Can't seem to locate the source. Have even pulled the entire seat out, and lubricated the runners. Any ideas ? Update: Screeching passenger seat problem fixed in 30mins. Problem was an insufficiently greased plastic bushing on the fore/aft adjustment shaft. Refer to 996 TSB 7213 for diagnosis and remedy.

good. add this to "mysterious porsche issues" forum. ( I wonder if a light silicone lube of the window seals would help?) not to steal this thread, but has anyone had screaching issues when adjusting the passenger seat, esp in moving it back? Hi, yes I currently have screaching issues when adjusting the passenger seat. Can't seem to locate the source. Have even pulled the entire seat out, and lubricated the runners. Any ideas ?

Since you have a 1999 996 tip, that part looks like the coolant shut off valve (P/N 928 574 573 03) in the ATF coolant sub-circuit. Basically as I understand it, the shut off valve moderates the temperature of the ATF in your tip transmission. If faulty, and depending on whether faulty open or faulty closed, would run your ATF temperature too high or to low. It takes a coolant feed from the main coolant circuit (via the hose that you mentioned is fused with the larger 2" one) through the shut-off valve, then through the ATF heat exchanger and then eventually returns back into the main circuit via a series of interconnected return hoses just ahead of the water pump (but after the thermostat). FYI....This is the same shut-off valve as fitted to a 928 (I used to own one) to control the temperature in the cabin. Any current/prior 928 owner's would know this part to be the troublesome recurring cause of what was described as a "hot air" coming from the centre vent of the HVAC system when full cold selected. From this experience I know that even if the valve appears to be working externally (i.e the vacuum actuator moves the lever across full range - full-open to full-closed) internally the valve seal that opens/closes the water circuit can be faulty. If you replace it make sure you install in the correct direction for coolant flow - another common error on 928s when replacing.

Australian MY2000 996 C2 Tip. Just recently performed a full drain, flush and refill to change from green coolant of unknown origin back to long-life Porsche antifreeze and thought I'd share my learning’s and experience. After researching I first was able to determine that the Porsche brand coolant is actually ELF Glacelf Supra Anti-Freeze. Links to sites that support this conclusion are listed at bottom of this post. Biggest problem I had was getting all the coolant out. According to the specs there is approx 22.5 litres (~6 US gallons) of coolant in the system. I followed the instructions in the workshop manual (Section 19 38 17 – drain plug and vent line) and was only able to drain about 11 litres (2.9 US gallons). So I removed several other coolant hoses from the engine and underside (per other posts on Renntech) but could not drain the other 11 Litres. So I resorted to the method described by 1999Porsche911 above (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=25986) to flush and dilute down to clear water. Tip - I managed to get 14 litres (~3.7 US Gallons) out by connecting an 8 foot section of garden hose to the vent pipe and blowing into it. This air blowing forced another 3 litres (0.8 US Gallon) out the drain plug. Once drained, I then (1) flushed clean water through the reservoir; (2) disconnected the coolant supply line to heater core and flushed clean water through the heater core, supply and return lines; and (3) disconnected the coolant supply line to the tiptronic AFT cooler and flushed clean water through the AFT cooler, supply and return lines. (1), (2) and (3) where done until clear water exited from the drain plug. I repeated the above twice so a little less waste to dispose of. Each time I refilled the system with clean tap water and bled air from the cooling system as described in the workshop manual (Section 19 38 17). On the 3rd drain I got 14 litres (~3.7 US Gallons) of practically clear water out (slightest evidence of green colour). I did not flush the heater core or AFT cooler. I was now ready to refill with the ELF coolant but there was remained 7.5 litres (~2 US gallons) of clean water in the system (somewhere ? – can anyone tell me where for next time ?). To get a final 50:50 mix of antifreeze to water, I prepared a 14 litre (3.7 gallon) solution using 10 litres (2.6 gallon) of antifreeze and 4 litres (1.1 gallons) of distilled water. Refilled and bled air again per workshop manual. Over the next few days I topped up a further ~2 litres (0.53 gallon) of 50:50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. By calculation, I should now have 11 litres (2.9 gallon) of antifreeze in 22.5 litres (~6 gallon) of coolant. Links for ELF Glacelf Supra Anti-Freeze Data Sheet: http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/Fic.../lang_1/127.pdf http://www.bombaydigital.com/arenared/1998/10/29/1 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=182 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15103 For those in Australia you can source ELF Glacelf Supra Anti-Freeze through www.elfoil.com.au. Price was A$5.00/litre (as at Oct/2009). Make sure it’s the pink organic product. I bought 15 x 1litre containers.

Just replaced final drive plug/washer with new one from Porsche which has plug and integrated sealing ring. P/N: 986 397 026 00.

For 1999-2001 996 tip owners in Australia you can source ESSO LT 71141 ATF from www.imperial.com.au for your ZF tiptronic trannies. Imperial Oil import the stuff. AU$12.00/litre (as at Oct/2009) - far cheaper than through Porsche.

Does anybody know the P/N for the Oil Filler Plug and it's Sealing Ring for the Final Drive/Diff on a 996 MY2000, C2, Tiptronic, RoW. Refer to Workshop Manual Group 39 90 55

I can highly recommend the search features, diagnosis and advise provided by the members of RENNTECH.ORG. I was able to save an estimated A$2000 in fault code diagnosis labour and parts in my first use and as a result freely made a donation to help keep this valuable web site going. In particular I ‘d like to thanks the members: Loren, 1999Porsche911, and carDorque for their experience and knowledge. I thought it was worth sharing my particular issue as it took me several hours of research and reading renntech forums. I’m in Australia and own a RoW RHD MY2000 996 3.4L tiptronic with just over 100,000km (~62k miles). I recently upgraded from a 1990 928 S4. The S4 was a great car, but the 996 leaves it for dead. Anyway under hard acceleration both the PSM and ABS fault lights would come on (with no check engine light (CEL)**) everytime. Both faults would reset each time the engine was restarted. No other obvious faults. A local used Porsche dealer thought it was one of the wheel sensors but did not have a fault code reader to confirm. So I took the car to a specialist Independent Porsche Repairer (IPR) would read out the faults. Here’s what they got: From the DME: P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor P1130 - Oxygen Sensing adaptation, idle range, bank 2 From the Tip: P1770 – Load signal from ECM From the PSM 5525 – Torque transfer from DME disturbed at times The IPR said they’d need to spend at least 1-2 days in labour diagnosing what all these faults meant and started to warm me to a faulty DME (big $$$). I was hoping the PST2 would have just said I had a faulty wheel sensor to replace, so I drove the car away to consider my options. I then by pure chance started searching the web and quickly got hits to RennTech. **First thing I discovered was that the CEL does not light with P0102, P1130 errors with RoW cars. Didn’t think this piece of info mattered much but it became vital when reading posts by USA owners. I was able to find literally masses of advise on each fault code using the search functions. Reading each discussion thread the fix was not looking to good, worst case replace DME, replace ABS. Then on second read I started to see an interrelationship between the fault codes so I prepared a fault tree and a list of potential fixes from cheapest DIY to $$$ in parts and workshop. It didn’t take long to soon realise that several of the faults appeared to be secondary faults. The checklist from the workshop manual for the Tiptronic P1770 fault said fix DME fault first then check Tip to DME wiring. So P1770 was likely a secondary to DME faults P0102 and P1130. I then found threads where other 996 owners had experienced exactly the same PSM/ABS faults under WOT. These threads contained the 5525 fault code with advise pointing to the MAF sensor. So PSM code 5525 was likely a secondary to the DME P0102. I then searched for P1130 and found the potential causes were the MAF, fuel pressure high, fuel injector leaking, EVAP canister purge valve open. Again this was pointing the P0102 as the source. I discounted any faulty wheel sensors or front shock absorber wiring harness issues in the treads as the PST2 didn’t pull any related codes for these. So based on the posts I was able to reasonably say that the P0102 fault was the primary issue and I either had an intake air leak, bad sensor, or wiring fault. I then prepared the following lists of checks, in order of cheapest DIY to most expensive, based on all the posts: 1. Check Air filter not dirty 2. Clean MAF sensor 3. Check MAF sensor wiring (open cct, short cct, blown fuse) 4. Replace MAF If these checks failed to fix the problem, then it was off to the workshop to look at the expensive ones: a. Checking for a split in the Air Oil Separator (AOS) bellows. b. Check for faulty DME, ABS CU and replace I checked the air filter, wiped out the air box and cleaned the MAF sensor, terminals and connector with MAF cleaner, checked the MAF wiring for shorts and while there cleaned the throttle body with carby cleaner. Left the car overnight for the MAF to dry and battery disconnected and followed all the work instructions after disconnecting battery from the workshop manuals (Repair Group 9). I’ve now done 225km (~140miles) since cleaning the MAF sensor. I am very happy to report that I only spent A$36.00 (US$20) on a can of MAF cleaner and tool to remove/replace the MAF sensor. No more ASB/PSM faults lights !!!! It sure was nice testing that the fix worked – all those horses and torque. I just had to check many times over the 0-100 spec. I guess the morale is, use the resources you have especially Renntech and the members experience as it will save you time and money, and if nothing more you will be educated if you need to talk to a repairer. It’s also not always obvious what the fault is – a dirty MAF sensor causing a failure in the ABS/PSM certainly wasn’t my first thought. I hope putting this all together in one email helps someone else like it did for me. Again, I‘d like to thanks the members: Loren, 1999Porsche911, and carDorque for their wisdom. Here are the links the threads I used (there are many, many more, but these got me there): PSM + ABS Fault lights (PSM CU Fault code 5525) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10730 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13502 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3497 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13920 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10972 DME Fault P0102 (P0103) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19222 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16476 DME Fault P1130 (P1128) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6861 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14596 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=23595 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13381 Tiptronic CU Fault 1770 No threads referred on RennTech. Used workshop manual tiptronic diagnosis group 37 DTC 22. Regards, Alex