Kojiro

It has been doing this for a long time, and I probably shouldn't be ignoring it as much as I am. When other people are in my car, the noise it makes when I lose traction usually scares them. It sounds like a ripping/vibrating noise, and it is very very loud inside when the top is not down, and is even audible when the top is down. Any ideas on what this might be? I'll try and get an audio recording of it, and post it.

Turns out it was related to the switch! I replaced the ignition switch completely, before trying to get to the starter, and it stopped happening. It seems that the ignition switch controls the bendix and starter operation seperately, and it was leaving the bendix out even though the starter operation was working just fine (or something like that.) After replacing the ignition switch though, it hasn't happened again! Still thank you everyone for the replies.

So i just moved a few months ago, and drove my '98 986 the entire 13 hour trip up to my new home. Was a great ride, except for the ignition switch issues I had the exact night before I left. That got me maniacally fiddling with it the night before, but I fixed it, no biggie. However, for quite a while now I have been hearing a scraping noise on startup, sounds kind of like an empty tin can being scraped across the ground or something... It's hard to describe any better way, and it's nearly impossible to get a recording of it (I've tried, many times) since it only happens on some start-ups. No CEL's no erratic engine behaviour, everything else seems fine, but it sure is embarassing when people hear it start up and then make the noise. Any ideas of what this could be? Also, if I do manage to capture a recording of it, I will post it.

If you do a search you will see that this topic has been covered before.

It is a real PITA to install the old PCM as the wiring needs to be run and the PCM frame also needs to be installed in the dash.

In most cases folks opt to go with a better and less expensive 3rd party NAV system.

Ah, I see, thanks.

Did I post this in the wrong area? Or has nobody really delved into PCM stuff for 986's? :(

Pull the shift boot and look for coins that have fallen into the shift gate from the ashtray...

When I took the center console out of mine, I found at least $5 from the previous owner.

Okay, so after spending oodles of money on my '98 986 in the past few months, I have gotten to the point where I just can't stop! (Litronics are in the mail right now )

So my next project was going to be something similar to this: http://www.macvroom....stest-mac-mini/

I even have a mac mini already laying around ready for it, but when I was in need of my radio code, I started reading on Becker's website about the PCM decks. They are pretty awesome, (and pricey from what I have seen) but I am probably going to go that route if possible. My questions are...

Can I put a PCM module in my 986?

If so, what is the newest one that I can put in?

Will all of the functions work (interfacing with the OBC?)

Will they work with my CD changer that came with my CDR210? (It's a CDC3 and Becker shows only CDC4's coming with any PCM's)

Will any of them work with my car's climate control? (I currently have the setup where there is a CDR210, and under it the climate controls seperately, and would like to prevent having to move the climate control to the lower level DIN's)

Is there anything else special about the PCM modules that I should know about?

(edit: I forgot to mention, my OBC is on, but I don't have a fourth stalk for it or a button wired to it, in case that is important.)

Hey trieullionaire

Where did you purchase the LEDs from?

I spotted these on ebay and liked the looks of them...just don't know about the quality <_< though for that price...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...898704&rd=1

Yeah I bought mine from Zomk Speed on Ebay. It's actually pretty affordable, $156.00 I think. So far no problems, I get a lot of people telling me the lights are extremely bright when I step on the brakes. I bought mine because one of my originals had a big crack in it, and so decided to look at some alternatives.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-04-PORSC...99207QQtcZphoto

Did you use any resistors on any of the tail lights? If so, how many ohms and where at?

I am very seriously considering buying these, and was wondering if anyone could post a video of them testing out all of the lights on them, so that I could get a feel for what they look like to decide if they are what I want. I really want it to look as stock as possible, but want LED's.

Going to have some work done that may involve disconnecting the battery, I think it maybe a good idea to have it just in case.

My serial number is WSO18669, thank you ahead of time. Oh, and it's a Becker CDR-210.

Try 9928

or

9926

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Okay, I just recently disconnected the battery, and after reconnecting, I tried both of those and they don't work, perhaps my serial number is actually W5018669? Would that yield different results? The digital display makes it weird to decipher the serial number. Again, thanks in advance!

Get the real serial number using the procedure in the FAQ.

I wasn't making it up.

Okay, so I got to the cables, detached the driver's side cable, and pulled it to where I could attach a drill to it. Sidenote: I think the drivers side had been shortened already, but from the middle. it had a section that had a larger piece of tubing around it ziptied on both ends (I am assuming the previous owner cut a section out, and then secured it together.) And then the problem arose that I don't have a drill that isn't super powerful. My only drill is a corded drill, and has a LOT of torque, so I was very hesitant to use it after reading all of the all caps instructions saying to use the lowest torque setting. Well, first I used a mirror and flashlight to view the direction of rotation of the inside of the motor for the top. It moves very fast, but when it slows down you can see the rotation. After figuring that out, I replicated it (carefully) with the drill, I heard two popping noises, got scared, and stopped. Then, after not knowing what to do as the nearest cordless drill that I could use was across town, and would not be available until the next day, I decided to try just putting the cable back in and trying it again. I slipped the cable in without the clip, and pushed it all the way in. I put the key in, hit the open button, and it worked, perfectly!

I am assuming that the problem was the tension of the top because of the hopped cables on the sliding clamps and rails (or somewhere over there) that caused the speedometer type drive cable to slip out a bit. You were right Maurice, thanks! Once I hopped the cables back over the frame, and put the clip on the drive cable, I closed it all the way, opened it, and closed it again, just to be safe. It all kept working, so I guess it's fixed, for now, although I will probably replace that driver's side drive cable with the new one soon, just to be 100% safe. Would anyone happen to know the part number for that cable? And since I have a working top now, is it still hard to install? Or will the ability to move the clamshell and top make it easy? (Keep in mind, I replaced my Top, AOS, etc. all myself.)

Okay, so this morning I started on fixing it, first thing I noticed was that the vinyl sheaths for the cables on the passenger and driver sides were different, the passenger side is the "cross hatched" style (which is newer from what I have read) and the drivers side is the smooth style. So I removed the driver's side cable first, on a hunch, and then, on the same hunch, decided to try the motor with only the passenger side connected. It worked just like normal (but only moved the passenger's side of the clamshell.) So, I am a bit hesitant to take a drill to the cable and force it open on the driver's side. could this be a different issue? Or is it what it would seem like, and the driver's side cable needs to be replaced? Should I proceed with using a drill to open the driver's side, since obviously the top motor can't get past something on that side? Also, not sure if it has to do with the same issue, but my top would always close a bit short on the driver's side (when it worked) and the clamshell would stick up a bit, but I could just press on it and it would sit in place. What should I do? I don't want to break anything if at all possible!

Hi,

If you crawl between the roll bars, open up the vinyl apron in the back, you'll see the motor in the center under the clamshell. There are two brass clips that pull up on either side, these hold the cables into the motor, I used a screwdriver to pry them out. Remove both of these clips and pull the cables out. With a cordless drill, low torque, stick the ends of the cable in the drill and slowly turn until the top moves or you hear a snap, if you hear the snap, reverse the drill, you are going the wrong way. The top and clamshell should slowly open up. Reverse the direction of the drill and repeat with the other side, slowly bring each side up (or down) until you can get at things.

I've had to do this repeatedly in the last couple of weeks, it works great.

Here is a link to Maurice's detailed description of the process, http://sites.google....op-half-closed.

Good Luck,

Jason

I am going to try this first thing tomorrow morning, thanks!

So just recently I replaced my entire top myself with a GAHH glass window top on my 98 Boxster. It looked and worked great. Although, because of how tight the top was, I had left it closed for about a week, only putting it down and up once or twice. Of the two times that I did put it down and back up it was still really tight, but more importantly, I only did it a little at a time, and made sure that everything was falling into place perfectly. The only parts that didn't work perfectly and guide themselves were the cables on either side that are sewn into the canvas, they kept ending up outside the frame when it folds open, instead of inside, I guess the elastic wasn't pulling them towards the center hard enough. So I would pop them over just before they got too tight and everything else would work fine. Well today I put my top down as I left work, and when I got home, I put it back up, all the way, and forgot about the cables. They were outside, and tight, but I figured I could just reverse the top a bit, pop them around and close it fully again. However, when I tried to open the top, the clamshell would make a noise like it was revving (for a second) but couldn't go anywhere, and wouldn't move. I also noticed that the cabrio dash light was lit, even though the clamshell was fully close. So no matter how many times I tried to open it, it wouldn't and it's not a matter of being only partially closed, as when I press down the other direction to try and fully close it again, it makes the same noise for only a second, and doesn't move. So now my top is stuck mostly closed, but with the cables taut outside the frame, and the clamshell stuck! I don't know what to do, so i parked it in my garage until I can get a response from here as to what to do. I don't even know how to manually open the clamshell to try and move the top back to a point that I can reverse the cable issue and close it normally. Please help!!!

Going to have some work done that may involve disconnecting the battery, I think it maybe a good idea to have it just in case.

My serial number is WSO18669, thank you ahead of time. Oh, and it's a Becker CDR-210.

Try 9928

or

9926

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Okay, I just recently disconnected the battery, and after reconnecting, I tried both of those and they don't work, perhaps my serial number is actually W5018669? Would that yield different results? The digital display makes it weird to decipher the serial number. Again, thanks in advance!

Kojiro,

I recently purchased the same top from the same seller on EBay. It is a GAHH top and comes in a brand new GAHH box. I contacted the seller prior to purchasing and he confirmed it was a GAHH top. He said he sells both the GAHH and Robbins top and can deliver both, although at different prices. He's been in the business of selling tops for 35 years, and he sells more GAHH tops than the Robbins tops. He says both are equivalent in quality but because GAHH is a smaller company, they can offer a comparable at a price slightly cheaper than the Robbins top. FWIW, I was originally going to get a Robbins top, but because of the information he provided, I decided to switch to getting a GAHH top. I haven't regretted it at all.

I am in the process of installing the top myself. It is definitely not a project for the timid, but I am getting through it and I consider myself quite handy. The GAHH top appears to be very high quality in terms of build and fit, and I'm looking forward to have a nice, new top on my Boxster.

I definitely recommend buying through this seller. He was very helpful.

Hope that helps.

Eric

Thank you so much, that is exactly what I wanted to hear!

The only way the "bigger" window fits is because it is installed on a 4 bow frame assembly, as found in the 2003 and 2004 986's. The retrofitted GAHH glass window canvas tops onto 3 bow frame assemblies have to have a small size in height so as to be able to "tuck in" behind the roll bar. The difficulty with these windows, aside from their somewhat small size is that an installation of that particular top will further restrict access to the engine.

So I'd have to change the frame on my '98 as well as the top? If so, then I might settle with a half-size window. How bad is the access to the engine compartment with the smaller windowed ones?

Also, I really do plan on DIY-ing it. Like I said, I don't trust anyone else to do it, I just need to find some time.

I have a '98 986 Boxster with a very cracked vinyl window top. I am considering replacing it myself, because the labor seems to be quite expensive, and I don't really trust anyone else to do this (except for a porsche dealership.) Although, I am really in the dark about replacement tops, I have heard tons about GAHH and Robbins tops, but I was wondering if some things I am finding on eBay are comparable, or the same. I found this (link) on eBay, and it says it is German A5, and is Ultramaxx glass, which sounds exactly like GAHH's site. Are these comparable? Also, from the looks of the size of the window, how does it fold into the clamshell? Should I stay away from eBay for my top and pay roughly twice the price for a GAHH or Robbins top? Or are these just as good or the same? Also, I have seen some replacement tops that look like they have half-height glass windows that would fold just fine, but these bigger windows I don't understand.

It could also be the AOS, my AOS was in all sorts of bad shape, and oil leaked down on that side (and in precisely that area) and got all over the "Vario Cam F1" logo and everywhere in between (although it was never enough for me to notice until I looked inside to see it all over the place.

So I had been planning on cleaning the MAF once I got a chance to pick up a security torx of the right size, but the car has been driving great, idling great, etc. The only thing is that it seems less powerful than it did with the old AOS, and the exhaust sound has changed, it is much quieter (which I like) but it sounds much more airy/raspy (which I don't like as much.) However, considering the circumstances, I was glad the CEL light was off and the car was running fine, until today... I was driving home from work, and as I was pulling up into the driveway the CEL came on. Since I was already home, I parked it and just now got a chance to get the codes (a bit later, but only one start in between to drive a very short distance to get the code,) and it has nine codes, and a few look familiar :( Here they are:

1121 - Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Behind Catalytic Converter – Below Lower Threshold

0160 -  Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Interruption of Signal

0150 - Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited

1126 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

1124 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold

0300 - Misfire Damaging to Catalytic Converter

0306 - Misfire, Cylinder 6, Damaging to Catalytic Converter

0304 - Misfire, Cylinder 4, Damaging to Catalytic Converter

0305 - Misfire, Cylinder 5, Damaging to Catalytic Converter

Also, another note, when I started it to go get the CEL codes, and was leaving my neighborhood, it started hanging at 2-3k during idle until I drove for a few minutes (which was what I had just fixed, or so I thought.) any ideas? Could this just be that I should have cleaned the MAF and the mix is too rich now? Because my Oxygen sensors like to freak out in groups...

Are there any instructions on removing the actual tank? Because I am trying to do so, to inspect my leak on the tank, but I can't get it loose, and I believe I have all of the bolts off, but there is a rubber plug-ish thing that seems to be holding it to the fender from behind the tank near that junction.

I really hate when people never resolve their threads when they fix the problem, and so I am not going to do that.

I just yesterday went to a bigger city (in a different vehicle) and got a new AOS and the tube that goes from it to the throttle body. I installed the AOS today, and now the car runs GREAT, I mean like it did a year ago. It idles perfectly now at ~800, never chokes the engine to weird RPM's when I am not doing anything anymore, and no more smoke!

Granted the AOS was a PITA to install, it was worth it, and it was something I was able to tackle alone in a few hours. Most of the hard work is getting some tubes to go on/come off of their respective parts, but other than that it is pretty simple. The first time I started it after I installed it, there was smoke, and it wasn't just on startup, it was a steady small stream of it for a few seconds, but once it was burnt off, I took it for a test drive, and I have started it about 5 times today after that and it has ran great all day/night! Thanks for all of the help everyone.

My coolant tank has always been a slightly brownish color, and I was told by a dealership that the coolant is sometimes that color, and the dipstick comes out smooth, and contains only oil, the coolant looks pretty clear when I look into it from the coolant cap. Although i have yet to take the oil filter out to inspect it. I will post more details once I do.

Would the oil in the coolant be visible from the coolant tank window or anywhere else? Or would I have to drain the coolant and oil to see if one has the other?

If your CEL is flashing you should not drive the car.

Check your oil for coolant - and check your coolant tank for oil.

If there is one in the other, what does that mean? And what causes this? (I haven't had a chance to check yet.)

Exact model and year of your car please...

Sorry, I actually was planning on putting that in there last, but forgot. :D

It's a '98 Boxster 986 2.5L