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About Kojiro

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  1. It has been doing this for a long time, and I probably shouldn't be ignoring it as much as I am. When other people are in my car, the noise it makes when I lose traction usually scares them. It sounds like a ripping/vibrating noise, and it is very very loud inside when the top is not down, and is even audible when the top is down. Any ideas on what this might be? I'll try and get an audio recording of it, and post it.
  2. Turns out it was related to the switch! I replaced the ignition switch completely, before trying to get to the starter, and it stopped happening. It seems that the ignition switch controls the bendix and starter operation seperately, and it was leaving the bendix out even though the starter operation was working just fine (or something like that.) After replacing the ignition switch though, it hasn't happened again! Still thank you everyone for the replies.
  3. So i just moved a few months ago, and drove my '98 986 the entire 13 hour trip up to my new home. Was a great ride, except for the ignition switch issues I had the exact night before I left. That got me maniacally fiddling with it the night before, but I fixed it, no biggie. However, for quite a while now I have been hearing a scraping noise on startup, sounds kind of like an empty tin can being scraped across the ground or something... It's hard to describe any better way, and it's nearly impossible to get a recording of it (I've tried, many times) since it only happens on some start-ups. No
  4. Did I post this in the wrong area? Or has nobody really delved into PCM stuff for 986's? :(
  5. When I took the center console out of mine, I found at least $5 from the previous owner.
  6. Okay, so after spending oodles of money on my '98 986 in the past few months, I have gotten to the point where I just can't stop! (Litronics are in the mail right now ) So my next project was going to be something similar to this: http://www.macvroom....stest-mac-mini/ I even have a mac mini already laying around ready for it, but when I was in need of my radio code, I started reading on Becker's website about the PCM decks. They are pretty awesome, (and pricey from what I have seen) but I am probably going to go that route if possible. My questions are... Can I put a PCM module in my 98
  7. Yeah I bought mine from Zomk Speed on Ebay. It's actually pretty affordable, $156.00 I think. So far no problems, I get a lot of people telling me the lights are extremely bright when I step on the brakes. I bought mine because one of my originals had a big crack in it, and so decided to look at some alternatives. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-04-PORSC...99207QQtcZphoto Did you use any resistors on any of the tail lights? If so, how many ohms and where at?
  8. I am very seriously considering buying these, and was wondering if anyone could post a video of them testing out all of the lights on them, so that I could get a feel for what they look like to decide if they are what I want. I really want it to look as stock as possible, but want LED's.
  9. Try 9928 or 9926 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST Okay, I just recently disconnected the battery, and after reconnecting, I tried both of those and they don't work, perhaps my serial number is actually W5018669? Would that yield different results? The digital display makes it weird to decipher the serial number. Again, thanks in advance! Get the real serial number using the procedure in the FAQ. I wasn't making it up.
  10. Okay, so I got to the cables, detached the driver's side cable, and pulled it to where I could attach a drill to it. Sidenote: I think the drivers side had been shortened already, but from the middle. it had a section that had a larger piece of tubing around it ziptied on both ends (I am assuming the previous owner cut a section out, and then secured it together.) And then the problem arose that I don't have a drill that isn't super powerful. My only drill is a corded drill, and has a LOT of torque, so I was very hesitant to use it after reading all of the all caps instructions saying to use t
  11. Okay, so this morning I started on fixing it, first thing I noticed was that the vinyl sheaths for the cables on the passenger and driver sides were different, the passenger side is the "cross hatched" style (which is newer from what I have read) and the drivers side is the smooth style. So I removed the driver's side cable first, on a hunch, and then, on the same hunch, decided to try the motor with only the passenger side connected. It worked just like normal (but only moved the passenger's side of the clamshell.) So, I am a bit hesitant to take a drill to the cable and force it open on the
  12. I am going to try this first thing tomorrow morning, thanks!
  13. So just recently I replaced my entire top myself with a GAHH glass window top on my 98 Boxster. It looked and worked great. Although, because of how tight the top was, I had left it closed for about a week, only putting it down and up once or twice. Of the two times that I did put it down and back up it was still really tight, but more importantly, I only did it a little at a time, and made sure that everything was falling into place perfectly. The only parts that didn't work perfectly and guide themselves were the cables on either side that are sewn into the canvas, they kept ending up outsid
  14. Hi

    A radio code for you to try, for given SN is now shown on

    the forum

    Kind regards


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