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Kojiro

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  1. It has been doing this for a long time, and I probably shouldn't be ignoring it as much as I am. When other people are in my car, the noise it makes when I lose traction usually scares them. It sounds like a ripping/vibrating noise, and it is very very loud inside when the top is not down, and is even audible when the top is down. Any ideas on what this might be? I'll try and get an audio recording of it, and post it.
  2. Turns out it was related to the switch! I replaced the ignition switch completely, before trying to get to the starter, and it stopped happening. It seems that the ignition switch controls the bendix and starter operation seperately, and it was leaving the bendix out even though the starter operation was working just fine (or something like that.) After replacing the ignition switch though, it hasn't happened again! Still thank you everyone for the replies.
  3. So i just moved a few months ago, and drove my '98 986 the entire 13 hour trip up to my new home. Was a great ride, except for the ignition switch issues I had the exact night before I left. That got me maniacally fiddling with it the night before, but I fixed it, no biggie. However, for quite a while now I have been hearing a scraping noise on startup, sounds kind of like an empty tin can being scraped across the ground or something... It's hard to describe any better way, and it's nearly impossible to get a recording of it (I've tried, many times) since it only happens on some start-ups. No CEL's no erratic engine behaviour, everything else seems fine, but it sure is embarassing when people hear it start up and then make the noise. Any ideas of what this could be? Also, if I do manage to capture a recording of it, I will post it.
  4. Did I post this in the wrong area? Or has nobody really delved into PCM stuff for 986's? :(
  5. When I took the center console out of mine, I found at least $5 from the previous owner.
  6. Okay, so after spending oodles of money on my '98 986 in the past few months, I have gotten to the point where I just can't stop! (Litronics are in the mail right now ) So my next project was going to be something similar to this: http://www.macvroom....stest-mac-mini/ I even have a mac mini already laying around ready for it, but when I was in need of my radio code, I started reading on Becker's website about the PCM decks. They are pretty awesome, (and pricey from what I have seen) but I am probably going to go that route if possible. My questions are... Can I put a PCM module in my 986? If so, what is the newest one that I can put in? Will all of the functions work (interfacing with the OBC?) Will they work with my CD changer that came with my CDR210? (It's a CDC3 and Becker shows only CDC4's coming with any PCM's) Will any of them work with my car's climate control? (I currently have the setup where there is a CDR210, and under it the climate controls seperately, and would like to prevent having to move the climate control to the lower level DIN's) Is there anything else special about the PCM modules that I should know about? (edit: I forgot to mention, my OBC is on, but I don't have a fourth stalk for it or a button wired to it, in case that is important.)
  7. Yeah I bought mine from Zomk Speed on Ebay. It's actually pretty affordable, $156.00 I think. So far no problems, I get a lot of people telling me the lights are extremely bright when I step on the brakes. I bought mine because one of my originals had a big crack in it, and so decided to look at some alternatives. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-04-PORSC...99207QQtcZphoto Did you use any resistors on any of the tail lights? If so, how many ohms and where at?
  8. I am very seriously considering buying these, and was wondering if anyone could post a video of them testing out all of the lights on them, so that I could get a feel for what they look like to decide if they are what I want. I really want it to look as stock as possible, but want LED's.
  9. Try 9928 or 9926 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST Okay, I just recently disconnected the battery, and after reconnecting, I tried both of those and they don't work, perhaps my serial number is actually W5018669? Would that yield different results? The digital display makes it weird to decipher the serial number. Again, thanks in advance! Get the real serial number using the procedure in the FAQ. I wasn't making it up.
  10. Okay, so I got to the cables, detached the driver's side cable, and pulled it to where I could attach a drill to it. Sidenote: I think the drivers side had been shortened already, but from the middle. it had a section that had a larger piece of tubing around it ziptied on both ends (I am assuming the previous owner cut a section out, and then secured it together.) And then the problem arose that I don't have a drill that isn't super powerful. My only drill is a corded drill, and has a LOT of torque, so I was very hesitant to use it after reading all of the all caps instructions saying to use the lowest torque setting. Well, first I used a mirror and flashlight to view the direction of rotation of the inside of the motor for the top. It moves very fast, but when it slows down you can see the rotation. After figuring that out, I replicated it (carefully) with the drill, I heard two popping noises, got scared, and stopped. Then, after not knowing what to do as the nearest cordless drill that I could use was across town, and would not be available until the next day, I decided to try just putting the cable back in and trying it again. I slipped the cable in without the clip, and pushed it all the way in. I put the key in, hit the open button, and it worked, perfectly! I am assuming that the problem was the tension of the top because of the hopped cables on the sliding clamps and rails (or somewhere over there) that caused the speedometer type drive cable to slip out a bit. You were right Maurice, thanks! Once I hopped the cables back over the frame, and put the clip on the drive cable, I closed it all the way, opened it, and closed it again, just to be safe. It all kept working, so I guess it's fixed, for now, although I will probably replace that driver's side drive cable with the new one soon, just to be 100% safe. Would anyone happen to know the part number for that cable? And since I have a working top now, is it still hard to install? Or will the ability to move the clamshell and top make it easy? (Keep in mind, I replaced my Top, AOS, etc. all myself.)
  11. Okay, so this morning I started on fixing it, first thing I noticed was that the vinyl sheaths for the cables on the passenger and driver sides were different, the passenger side is the "cross hatched" style (which is newer from what I have read) and the drivers side is the smooth style. So I removed the driver's side cable first, on a hunch, and then, on the same hunch, decided to try the motor with only the passenger side connected. It worked just like normal (but only moved the passenger's side of the clamshell.) So, I am a bit hesitant to take a drill to the cable and force it open on the driver's side. could this be a different issue? Or is it what it would seem like, and the driver's side cable needs to be replaced? Should I proceed with using a drill to open the driver's side, since obviously the top motor can't get past something on that side? Also, not sure if it has to do with the same issue, but my top would always close a bit short on the driver's side (when it worked) and the clamshell would stick up a bit, but I could just press on it and it would sit in place. What should I do? I don't want to break anything if at all possible!
  12. I am going to try this first thing tomorrow morning, thanks!
  13. So just recently I replaced my entire top myself with a GAHH glass window top on my 98 Boxster. It looked and worked great. Although, because of how tight the top was, I had left it closed for about a week, only putting it down and up once or twice. Of the two times that I did put it down and back up it was still really tight, but more importantly, I only did it a little at a time, and made sure that everything was falling into place perfectly. The only parts that didn't work perfectly and guide themselves were the cables on either side that are sewn into the canvas, they kept ending up outside the frame when it folds open, instead of inside, I guess the elastic wasn't pulling them towards the center hard enough. So I would pop them over just before they got too tight and everything else would work fine. Well today I put my top down as I left work, and when I got home, I put it back up, all the way, and forgot about the cables. They were outside, and tight, but I figured I could just reverse the top a bit, pop them around and close it fully again. However, when I tried to open the top, the clamshell would make a noise like it was revving (for a second) but couldn't go anywhere, and wouldn't move. I also noticed that the cabrio dash light was lit, even though the clamshell was fully close. So no matter how many times I tried to open it, it wouldn't and it's not a matter of being only partially closed, as when I press down the other direction to try and fully close it again, it makes the same noise for only a second, and doesn't move. So now my top is stuck mostly closed, but with the cables taut outside the frame, and the clamshell stuck! I don't know what to do, so i parked it in my garage until I can get a response from here as to what to do. I don't even know how to manually open the clamshell to try and move the top back to a point that I can reverse the cable issue and close it normally. Please help!!!
  14. Hi

    A radio code for you to try, for given SN is now shown on

    the forum

    Kind regards

    Bruce

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