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Iceyankee-Tsi

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Everything posted by Iceyankee-Tsi

  1. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Well: I disassembled everything again and this time, with the engine running I disconnected the solenoid plug and applied 12 volts straight to the solenoid and the engine changed its sound. This makes me think that the engine may be okay. I also measured the output voltage from the plug harness to the solenoid and it was reading around 9.4 volts consistently. Something curious was that I connected my computer and used the durametric software to use the "Camshaft adjustment bank 2" feature and I kept reading the output voltage without any noticeable change in value. Is there anything else that I might be missing here? Like for example any other feedback that may be needed to vary the voltage sent to this solenoid valve. Andres
  2. Iceyankee-Tsi
    That would be exactly the type of thing that would really scare me!!! Since I don't have the appropriate tools to tackle a project involving engine removal, this would cost me an eye. :unsure:
  3. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Well guys: I'm afraid it didn't work. :( The P-1325 code came again. Doing some more troubleshooting, I hooked on the Durametric tool and I noticed that under the "Drive Links" tab of the software when I try to actuate the "Camshaft adjustment bank 2" feature with the engine on, there is no change in the engine sound. However, when I turn on the "Camshaft adjustment bank 1" button, the engine's sound does change as expected. Since I took out the bank 2(passengers side) solenoid and applied 12 volts and I saw the solenoid actuating, I understand that it is working correctly. Is there any way I may be able to inspect the solenoid's wiring? I know that there is a testing procedure for this solenoid as described in the repair manual, however i do not have a variable voltage power source to perform it. Can anybody give me some advice on this? Thank you. Andres
  4. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Greetings everyone: Please correct me if I am wrong but this particular case seems to be a bad accumulator only. To my knowledge this applies unless you have any type of Pentosin leak in the slave cylinder area. I mean, if it was a damaged slave cylinder you would surely see some sort of leak coming from the push-rod area of the cylinder. Taking as the most probable cause of the leak that the hydraulic seal of the inner piston/cylinder assembly has given up. A lack of Pentosin may also be seen in the reservoir if a defective slave cylinder is suspected. In the other hand, since the accumulator is an enclosed container with an inner bladder(as observed in another post from a member) it makes sense for it to damage under constant use. Providing a harsh clutch engagement. Andres
  5. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Greetings: Just to post a little feedback regarding the issue. This week I had the chance to change the spark plugs for a new set of NGK BKR6EQUP units and at the same time checked the sensor. The sensor's holding bracket was in perfect conditions so I removed the sensor an cleaned it. At the same time I did some sensor testing by applying intermittent 12V charge to the solenoid and it actuated as it should. I also verified the plug's condition and it looked great. No physical ware and/or shielding damage(up to what it is visible). However, I saw that the sensor's plug terminals were not making appropriate contact with the plug since they were somewhat dirty(metal had like sulfate on it). So I clean it up and put everything back together. Since once i cleared the code it takes like about 2 to three start ups before the "CEL" appears, at this time I am not able to say If I fixed the problem. But I will let you know the outcome. Happy Holidays!! Andres
  6. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Thank you Loren!!!! I will verify this and will post an update once I verify it. It will take me a couple of weeks since I will go ahead and purchase some spark plugs and replace them as part of the task(since I can see I will have to remove bumper, etc). Thanks again and will let you know. Best regards, Andres
  7. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Thank you Loren!!! Even though I haven't posted before, I have had the chance to read many topics where you have provided great advice and demonstrate great Porsche knowledge(props for that ;)) Moving to the topic, where exactly should I look for the Bank 2 "Hydraulic valve solenoid" and its electrical plug in the engine? Is it accessible from the rear engine compartment or do I need to remove the tire, bumper, etc? I understand that the first thing to do is to verify the wiring, plug condition and anything power related. If this doesn't work, the next step should be removing the solenoid and attempt to clean it(hope this is realistic since I haven't seen what is exactly the composition of this unit). Since I have the Durametric software, I can make it actuate and verify if it works. Finally, if this doesn't work I guess I would have to purchase a new unit. Since the mail man haven't arrived with the purchased 996 turbo information, at this time I have minimum to none idea where to look at. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Andres
  8. Iceyankee-Tsi
    Greeting from Puerto Rico everybody: My name is Andres Bonano and I am from Puerto Rico. This is my first time posting in this forum and I am relatively new to Porsches. I recently purchased a 2001 996 Turbo with 36,000 miles and I will greatly appreciate some advice on a CEL code that recently started. After scanning it with my Durametric software, I found the following: P1325-Porsche fault code 901-Inlet camshaft bank 2 I purchased from Porschelibrarian the manuals for may car(yet haven't arrived since this is very recent). He was very kind to me and provided me in advance with some great information regarding OBD2 codes. However, since I don't have yet the information regarding the location of the parts asociated with this code, have any of you had a code similar to this one and what did you do? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy holidays!!! Andres
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