Kim

In hindsight, I would have also spent the $$ on the DVDs for both the Litronic and short shift install. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...code=_9x6_Werks It would have probably saved me lots of frustration.

I concur. The DVD was well worth its cost .... as it stepped through the installation, covering every single issue and leaving nothing to scratch my head about.

Kim

2000 Cab

Joel and Bruce are tremendous resources to the Porsche community but sometimes their information is not current. Mobil 1 5W-50 has been off the "Approved Oils" list for over two years.

I have noticed the same thing regarding Joel's PCA.org Q&A. He has access to a wide array of experts and information and often comes up with terrific answers .... but a regular reader will occasionally see an answer that indicates his being a little behind in some area that has already become widespread knowledge among many Porsche drivers .... particularly those who frequent here.

The bottom line, I guess, is that no one source is going to have all the answers.

Kim

2000 Cab

A Ball socket hex wrench allows you to be offset as much as 30 degrees and still turn the hex bolt.

The spark plug socket is pretty standard 5/8" is US. The spark plug socket is common but you will need a wobble extension to get the angle a couple of the plugs.

Thanks .... I have a set and have long sworn by the ball end allen wrench. I was mentally picturing some sort of box end wrench with a universal incorporated somehow. I guess that's because I associate the English term "spanner" with an plain jane open end wrench.

I also have the 5/8 plug socket. I have found it to be about 50/50 with the 13/16 in American and European cars over the years.

Kim

2000 Cab

Loren,

Just so I will be prepared when the time comes (hate to start a project, then have to go shopping for tools);

Can you more fully describe a "ball-socket hex wrench for the coils" I'm a fairly experienced shade tree guy, but the "ball-socket" part doesn't ring a bell.

And:

Can you tell me the required size for the "deep spark plug socket". I have a couple of the common sizes, but haven't investigated far enough to know if one of them will fit my 996 plugs.

Thanks,

Kim

2000 Cab

I purchased a '99 Black on black 996 this past weekend.

Car just needs a bit more TLC to be close to perfect. Can you guys suggest where I can get the best price on the following items?

For all the OEM items .... including the tray to replace the cassette holder, I suggest you contact Jeff at Sunset Porsche. Sunset is a RennTech sponsor, and offers factory parts at cost + 15%, last time I checked. There is a link to Sunset on the home page. He is terrific to deal with, and will work via phone or email.

For your wife's cup holder .... if you are serious about the big gulp .... then the OEM holder that clips into the side air vent will not do. It is limited to a Coke can size cup, both height and width wise. My wife really likes the Ultimate Cup Holder, which mounts on the floor by her left foot. [http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/]. It requires no permanent attachement, and securely holds just about anything.

I got my jack pad on Ebay, in the Porsche parts section. Ditto for floor mats.

Kim

2000 Cab

The chart below has existed for 30 years. What changed? Maybe just wanting to get a litlte better short term performance out of the engine or a little better gas mileage? The oil didn't change. It still is not certified for any temp above 212F. Our engines run considerably hotter than that.

I must be missing something in the chart. It appears that 0W-40 shares the bar with 5W-40, and they both indicate exceeding (I assume that's what the arrow at the top means) the same temp range as the other oils pointing out the top. If there is a point on that chart that shows some oils protecting all the way to 230, while 0W-40 tops out at 212, then I'm missing it.

With the chart being 30 years old, does it take modern synthetic oils into account? I have no idea if that makes a difference, but my owners' manual clearly differentiates in specifying viscosity ranges for synthetic and non-synthetic oils.

Again, I challenge no one's choice of oil. I just don't understand your stance, nor your parsing a difference between Porsche "recommending" an oil, and Porsche specifying, by brand and weight, which oils it approves for specific ambient temperature ranges.

I have no intention to be argumentative, but I enjoy an exercise in logic .... even if that excercise eventually proves me in the wrong. I just haven't seen that, yet.

Kim

2000 Cab

Stop using the 0W40. Move up to a 5W40 or 10W40 in the winter where you live. Only someone intent on destroying their 3.4 engine would run the 0W40. I won't even run that crap here in Chicago and it's currently 17 degrees outside. In the summer, you should move to a 15W50.

Porsche DOES NOT recommend 0W40 in your climate.

You know, I really never understand it when someone puts up a post with a tone like this on a forum dedicated to the friendly sharing of information and insight. Maybe RennList .... but not here.

Of course, we all have differences of opinion on many, many subjects .... the right tire, exhaust system, ride height, etc .... but, on some subjects, concrete, authoritative information is fairly easy to come by. Porsche's latest TSB on approved oil recommends the Mobil Synthetic 0W40, as does my dealer (for my 3.4 engine) for any ambient temp .... which probably covers Miami year round. On the other hand, the TSB .... as far as I can find, does not recommend any 10W40 or 15W50 oils under any circumstances.

The bold print in the Engine Oil section of my Owners' Manual says, "if in doubt, consult your authorized dealer", so I guess its OK to trust him on this. However, I find no fault with, and have no argument with anyone who chooses to go another way. Porsche approves many different oils, both manufacturers and weights.

Finally, I guess I must misunderstand what the TSB says regarding viscosity: You recommend chucking the 0W40 in favor of the 5W40 or 10W40 for the Miami winter ... presumably because those south Florida winters are warm. But, all three of these oils will have the same viscosity at higher temps; the only difference coming into play at an ambient temp below -12F. At that point, the 5W40 would have to be swapped out for 0W40 if a new ice age came to Florida .... and the 10W40 could only be used if one chose to ignore Porsche's latest info.

As always, I stand ready to be educated and corrected in my never fully adequate understanding of these wonderful machines and their mysteries. You guys will surely let me know if I've failed Properties of Oil 101.

Kim

2000 Cab

I'm curious here - I don't understand how condensing petrol in the intake or cylinder wall makes the oil thinner..

Since my shade tree days hopping up Chevy 283s, it has been my understanding that raw, unburned fuel from an over rich mixture will drain down past piston rings and mix with / dilute oil in the crank case.

I'll leave it to the real mechanics here to confirm or deny that common belief.

Kim

2000 Cab

I can only say that I love them. Used them alot before I put the hardtop on and use them all the time in the cold now. If you want to try it let me know I will be happy to provide whatever assistance I can. I did take some pictures of the seat cushion part which Dennis did not have in his instrucitons.

I would appreciate it very much if you would email the parts list, whatever pictures you have of the seat cushion work, and any other pertinent hints to:

lkwelch@mindspring.com

Thanks,

Kim

2000 Cab

My remote quit working. It's because the plastic dimple that presses against the electronic switch is worn down. I just need a new cover, not the $200 key itself. Anyone got one or know where I can get a used one? It's a one button remote.

jp

There are frequently remote key heads available on Ebay that go cheap due to the fact that they have no bar code tag with ID number (for mating to the car's computer).

If your problem is truly limited to the physical condition of your key head, you could buy one, move your electronics (remote and immobilizer) to the new head, and you would be in business without having to go through any mating at the dealer.

Kim

2000 Cab

Are your seats heated or not? I just a a DIY to add heated seats to my car so I have extra foam seat cushions. One or both are yours for free except you would have to pay shipping. You can also get them from Porsche (I use Sunset). The heated ones cost me about $115.00@, the unheated one are much less. Putting them in the seats is a DIY if you are a little handy. If it is orders that are bothering you it might just be in the foam, then just clean the leather. Let me know if you want them.

Dharn55

Are you going to post a DIY (with pictures) of your heated seat project. I've been waiting to see it, and to see if I think I can do it. Until I read your original post, it never occurred to me that heated seats would significantly extend the top down season.

Kim

2000 Cab

2001 C2 Cab - Artic Silver on Black

Called the dealer today about getting a new key and getting the remote part programmed for my car. The service advisor asked if I had the 16 digit serial number??? I told him no, that I only had the remote part of the key and I wanted to order the metal key and have them program the remote. He advised he could not and that the key is useless unless I have the code.

Is this true, anyone else heard of this. Anyone know where I can go in the Toronto area to get the remote programmed.

That's the way it works.

If you are using your old black key head, and simply inserting a new metal key shaft, then your key head is already programmed to your car. You're good to go once it comes to the parts department.

If you are starting with all new parts, then it works this way:

1. New metal key shaft can be ordered from any dealer by supplying your VIN (with proof of ownership).

2. Then, choose between:

A. New auxillary key head (no remote locking) with internal immobilizer for which your can must be programmed (mated) using the PST2; or

B. New remote locking key head which must have internal immobilizer AND remote locking transmitter mated to your car using the PST2.

In the mating operation, the dealer must use a super secret code, specific to your VIN, which he will get from PCNA .... AND ..... for a remote locking key head, the 16 digit code that is displayed via a bar code tag that comes with each new remote locking key head.

The 16 digit code tag is what is usually mentioned as being included or not included with the key heads you see on Ebay. I've never figured out who buys .... or what they do with .... the heads that are advertised to include no code.

Kim

2000 Cab

Question is, will I like the hard top enough to cross country for it?

In the Atlanta climate, there are many winter days on which the top down ride is wonderful. I have not had my hardtop on since I brought the car home from the dealer. I doubt that I ever will .... but just can't bring myself to get rid of it yet.

Kim

2000 Cab

.... (very annoying to have so many rag top rattles on such an expensive car)? These are some of the reasons as to why I am contemplating on buying a hard top for mine so any help from you expert will help me. .

I do not believe that rattles are inevitable with the 996 Cab. Mine is a 2000 with almost 50K miles, and I don't have any .... short of crossing some severely bumpy surface .... the kind that would make any car rattle.

I have ordered Kryox to have on hand (as prescribed in the TSB) and some Ice Wax (as reported helpful by other forum posters) .... but have not had the need as yet.

So, bottom line ..... it seems the cab tops are not predestined to rattle and, therefore, most rattles must be solveable in some way.

Kim

2000 Cab

I think you MUST be missing some seal or something. While I've never taken my Cab through a car wash, I've been in some gully-washing (southern term) rains .... as late as this morning, with no sign of a drop making it past the door sills even though the wipers could hardly keep up. Had kids in all 3 seats. I'm SURE they would have let out a yell if water was coming in anywhere.

Kim

2000 Cab

I am pleased to report that the new expansion tank has been mounted in place and so far so good! All's working properly and it only took me 1.5 hours to complete this task. I'd say it's a relatively easy job if you follow the DIY instructions, a far cry from the 4 hours the mechanic wanted to charge me.

Can you describe exactly what was involved in the last step, "purging" of the system?

Thanks,

Kim

2000 Cab

No wonder they told me that 911 owners go through tires every 10-12k miles. I smell burning rubber every time I get out of the car no matter how delicately I drive it, because this alignment is causing my rear tires to literally get chewed up every time they rotate. The rear inside edges of the tires are warm (and not just from the engine heat) even if I just I drive a mile down the road to the video store. Is this the same on a C2? Does anybody have any experience with setting it to zero degrees?

My car is set up to factory specs. So far, in over 15,000 miles, I have not noticed uneven wear on my my rear tires .... on either edge.

My car is not tracked, but I do enjoy driving it agressively when able / safe to do so.

Kim

2000 Cab

If you have a MY02 or newer (you did not say your model year) then you can change it with the On-Board Computer (if you have that option). Otherwise it needs to be changed with a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

Loren,

I could be remembering incorrectly, but it is my impression that I changed mine (MY00) by manipulating the clock set knob on the panel.

I am out of town right now, or I would check before posting .... but I would hate to see anyone have to go to the shop unnecessarily.

Kim

2000 Cab

I have seen no TSBs on this - and actually would not expect to.

My former daily driver, a Lexus, and current daily driver a Mercedes both have windshield pits. I am afraid it is a fact of life if you drive a car daily in any traffic at all.

Clearly, some pitting is inevitable with a daily driver ..... but it took 20+ years and 180,000 miles before my 928 windshield was pitted as much as my 5 year old, 48,000 mile 996 windshield.

Kim

2000 Cab

What I do is set the cruise control about 2-3 MPH above the posted speed limit and then sit back, relax, and enjoy the drive.

Speeding on most of today's roadbeds requires constant attention and is extremely taxing mentally. I haven't owned a radar detector since about 92.

That sounds wonderful .... I only wish it would work in metro Atlanta commuting. Like most car-oriented cities, the traffic often slows miserably here. The corollary is that, when unobstructed, it moves quickly and you best keep up.

So, combine the above situation with the inevitable Cobb County police standing on the bridge with radar. He shoots at the pack and gets a 70MPH return. (believe me, when unobstructed the ATL pack moves at 80 ... including old ladies in Camrys .... in a 55 zone).

He cannot stop the entire pack, it would make a rat's nest of traffic, so he has to pick one out .... the Camry, the pick up truck, or the black Porsche Cab? Its for THAT reason that I use the V-1 to know he's up ahead .... NOT so that I can speed gratuitously.

I am rarely the fastest moving car on the road. I am often the most attractive target.

Kim

2000 Cab

What dash / window mounted radar detector would any of you recommend?

I've sworn by my Valentine V-1 for 10+ years. Had it updated occasionally at the factory and it has saved me numerous times. I've never been ticketed while using it.

Most magazine comparisons score the V-1 very highly, and have for years.

Kim

2000 Cab

the seat itself is a no brainer, just held on with velcro but how do you remove the seat backs? anyone with instructions?

You must remove the swivel bracket mounted on the outside wall at the bottom edge of each back seat. It is held in with a fastener called a "triple square", 8mm. (Thanks to Loren for that info and the source):

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sk19704.html

This looks like a many-pointed Torx.

After you remove the fasteners on this swivel mount, you can slide the bracket and the outside edge of the seat back forward, and simply pull the swivel rod out of the inside bracket, which is on the center tunnel and shared by both seat backs.

Hope that helps.

Kim

2000 Cab

And this puzzled you for 10 months? :eek: There's nothing more distinctive than the sound of a gsm phone contacting the base station...

Besides: the wisdom is here in this forum

NOW, I really feel dumb. I have read almost everything that has been posted over the past year .... don't know how I missed that.

The only saving grace is that I did not ask on the forum .... when the answer had already been clearly spelled out. Come to think of it .... that's probably why I did not do a search .... since I was not preparing to post a question. Always search before I ask, lest I trigger the "have you searched?" responses, which would be well deserved.

A subscription to RennTech is the cheapest, must-have accessory for a Porsche.

Kim

2000 Cab

In the 10 months since acquiring my 2000 Cab, I have experienced an intermittent (no discernable pattern) buzzing noise from my CDR-220. I was able to discover that it was volume independent, but would disappear if I turned the radio completely off.

The sound was like someone doing a hip-hop rythm with a door bell buzzer, or .... if you're old enough to recognize the reference .... like an angry bee sending Morse code. It would last 5-10 seconds, then maybe not be heard again for several days.

Today, the mystery was solved. When the buzzing began, I removed my cell phone from the storage shelf above the radio. (I sometimes place it there, but its usually in my pocket). The sound ceased immediately. I moved the phone back close to the radio just in time to hear the last few buzzes. Apparently, a cell phone experiences periodic activity (perhaps switching cell towers) that causes it to emit radio frequency interference that is picked up by my radio.

It was a relief, as I have even contacted Becker regarding sending the unit in for a (not cheap) check up.

Kim

2000 Cab

I question for KIM. ( or anybody else who likes to chime in here) I assume you installed The GoodYears with 265 in the back??/ If you had to redo it would you stay with 265 or would you go 275 or maybe even 285?? I have 7 1/2 inch / 18 in the front and 10 inch ( 65 offset) in the back. I do not want to roll the fenders at this point.

I simply asked the dealer for the stock sizes, which meant the 265s on the rear. I will readily admit that I am not expert enough to even know why I would ask for the larger sizes. I don't track the car, and the stock sizes certainly deliver all the performance I can handle.

Contribute to my education. What is the perceived advantage of the larger tires?

Thanks,

Kim

2000 Cab