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About beej

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  • Present cars
    911 996 Carrera 2 manual (1998)
  1. Digging into 125,000 miles now with my '99 daily driver 996 C2... and I've just had to have the M030 suspension replaced. The OEM sports exhaust corroded (it's not stainless!) and I had to replace that as well.
  2. Hi all, Has anyone had to replace the rubber seal for the rear window? On my 1998 996 C2, one of the bottom corners came loose in a car wash and it doesn't sit well when pushed back in. The PET suggests that the seal is 996 545 521 04. There's also plastic trim part 996 545 545 01 but this doesn't look like it needs changing. Can this work be done as a self-repair? Perhaps I'm not doing it right. If anyone has been through this themselves, I'd appreciate any advice! :) BJ
  3. Hi James, Not OEM replacement bushes, no. But I did keep costs down by finding OEM quality parts on eBay! (I had poly bushes on a previous car but didn't like the firmness) Beej
  4. Just to end this, in case it helps anyone else: picked up the 996 today and the engineer showed me the parts he replaced. The rear suspension parts, AFAICT from 11 years of history never replaced before, the rubber bushes were certainly deteriorated and he showed the passenger side wishbone had play in it which was resulting in a clunk on bumps, and presumably the shimmy at the rear. He also showed part of the chassis (or sub-frame?) where it had cracked when he was trying to remove the eccentric screw which had over 11 years... become "as one" with the suspension. He'd drilled it out and th
  5. While the lower wishbones were being fitted, some problems were found, so I'm having to replace the control arm (996.341.043 which is #17 on PET sheet 501) as well as the eccentric screw (what a great name for a part! 996.331.217) which has had to be drilled out :( The control arms I've found at an affordable price online, but had to go to Porsche for the eccentric screw. I'm buying pairs as I want both sides of the car done. You might find the 996 screw has been deleted so using the 997 screw instead. I've never had to pay 17 pounds for a screw before... :)
  6. Hi fellas, I recently fitted an ipod cable to my CDR22. Bought it from ebay where it was described as for Becker stereos. I knew it wouldn't change my Nano, but it ended up blowing the Nano, and the replacement Nano, so I'm playing it safe and replacing the cable with a 3.5" jack instead!
  7. I've got no more details. Thanks for the advice - it seems the right thing to do is get the arm not just a poly replacement for the bushes, so I've gone and got "OEM-equivalent" replacements for £130 each rather than £250 that the dealer wants. Booked in for the repair next week. Many thanks!
  8. Howdy folks, I can feel increased lateral movement at the back of the car depending on road bumps, thick paint on lane changes, and so on. Last year's MOT test [sorry, don't know what this annual check is called in the USA] brought out that the bushes on the rear lower suspension arms, both sides of the car, were deteriorating. My local guy wants to replace the arm as well as the bush, with the OEM part (probably 996.341.053) costing £250/$400 each. I didn't ask the dealer yet. Yet poly bushes seem to be available on their own. But would that do the job, or do I risk replacing the det
  9. thanks Loren - turns out that the plastic part on the left is not the one in the PET - replaced now, and slots in and screws fine :D thanks
  10. Hi everyone, This is about the front plate on my 996. European style not USA, ok! :) The front plate fell off (fortunately at work) and I wanted to solve this by getting a new plate... the current one is 10 years old anyway and tatty. The dealer printed a new plate (12GBP) and provided new screws and end caps (88 pence!). The bracket is new enough. But they didn't have replacements for the nylon clips that fix the bracket to the bumper. Last night I drilled the plate and mounted it. But here's the problem - the bracket just won't stay on the car. How is the bracket supposed to stay loc
  11. Brilliant! Thank you for explaining, very kind of you to help out.
  12. Hi Loren and others, There was an object rattling under my seat, and I've finally found what it was. Can anyone please tell me if this is a part from the car that needs reattaching, or just junk? :) Thanks very much!
  13. While checking the oil tonight, the engine compartment lid closed on me. It hangs in the open position for just a couple of seconds, then starts falling. Any tips on a quick fix for it to stay open or shall I get a good stick? :)
  14. Update. The air con pipe was replaced without dropping the engine; it was the forward half of the pipe not the back half that leads to the engine bay. Access through the driver side wheel arch. Sadly, the cold air lasted a day, and it's gone again. The engineer said that it was gassed with some UV fluid (?) to make it easier to find the (new?) leak. Fingers crossed it isn't the compressor, I've been hoping to avoid the cost of that part :(
  15. Update. This time, done PROPERLY. The leak has been found on the pipework under the car, on the right hand side about half-way between front and rear wheels. The pipe is leaking just under where it is clamped to the chassis. The engineer is investigating options. Is it one single metal pipe running from front to back, requiring engine to be dropped to replace?
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