redduck996

thanks, i'll try it myself when I get my ramps in. :)

hahaha thanks guys. My thought here is if I do the install myself and dont like the sound/powerband change/results then I can easily remove it. paying 60 bucks for the rhino ramps and a few hours of my time is not a big deal. If I pay the shop 400 and find that I dont like the headers, guess what? Another 400 to remove.

Plus I like working on my car if it is something I can easily do. So bottom line is, just loosen the cats but neither the cats nor the exhaust has to come off? Ive also read that new bolts is recommended, what say the experts?

thanks

peter

Ive searched and was not able to find any DIY tips on installing just the headers for the 997s. Is this as simple as removing a few bolts and swaping out the old headers or does the cats and exhaust have to come off as well? I bought a set of suncoast headers off a rennlist member and thought i'd try the install myself. The shop wanted 400 bucks for the job. Ive heard it should only take about 1-2 hours to do right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on buying the rhino (gray) ramps for the job. I think that was recommended by some of the rennlisters.

tia

peter

Thanks Loren!!!

:)

Does the kit include the stabilizer mounts?

Should I be looking for these numbers in the kit?

996.343.792.12 and 996.333.792.25

THanks in advance

Peter

geeez Loren - I think I am in trouble.  I purchased the ROW M030 "complete" suspension kit from a company in the UK(not Carnewal) and I have a feeling I am not "complete" or even correct :(

Front shocks - 996.343.041.18 are for a MY02. Although the parts list says they can be replaced with 996 343 041 21 (for MY03).

Front springs - 996.343.531.19 is correct. They should be marked Green and White.

Rear shocks - 996.333.051.22 are for a MY02 (again). Although the parts list says they can be replaced with 996 343 051 26 (for MY03).

Rear springs - 996.333.531.26 is correct. They should be marked Green and White.

Stabilizer - 996.343.701.04 and 996.333.701.19 (replaces 996 333 701 17) are correct.

996.343.792.12 and 996.333.792.25 are new stabilizer mounts since your new bars are likely larger in diameter.

Bump stops and compensation plates can be reused as they are the same. The kits vary so I've seen some with and some without.

So the only thing I see in question is the shocks. I do not know the difference between the MY02 and MY03 shocks. Perhaps it is just the manufacturer since the parts list says you can use the newer ones on an older car.

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I'm trying to order from sunset as well

Loren, can you verify that the part number they gave me at sunset is in fact for my 03 6sp coupe.

000 044 500 27

The kit comes with all that you guys have mentioned right? I have the cheapy oem std suspension now..

thanks in advance

Hey split, never got the money/check for the B&M ssk.. If ya changed your mind, ya should of had the courtesy to at least tell me.. :(

Do a search on that.  I can't remember the userID's but there have been several people recently that have done this.  Also, search over on rennlist.com and 6speed

Sorry I couldn't help more, but at least this is a start.

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I'm taking it in again tomorrow.. I'll mention that to them.

I hear the rattling at low speed turns or going over bumpy roads. I think I also hear it when i'm banging the door panel or speaker area as a test. :(

I'm going to keep bringing it back until they can fix it.. Such a waste of my time but I'm not going to take NO for an answer.. As a comsumer I have rights damnit.. hahahahhaha

Wow! That's awefully nice of them.. :)

CAn't wait to get mine on.. Still waiting on the dealer to fix the rattling door/whistling window and clanking tranny/flywheel..

If they can't hear it on the test drive with the stock exhaust, I know they not gonna hear anything with a GHL..

What will happen if no adjustments or fix is made? Is it bad for the car if I keep running it like this?

he said the fly\wheel is suppose to have play in it.. :(

Just got my car back..All I can say is they did absolutely nothing..

First they said they tighten a few speaker screws on the right side (which was where the rattle was coming from) I still hear rattling from the door area.. It could be the passenger seat bc I do see it shake alot.

The driver side wind noise is still present. They said they adjusted the window by moving it up and out a smudge. I still hear drastic wind noise at 40-55 mph.. Not sure if thats normal or not

The rattling/clanking sound he said was from the flywheel which he said was absolutely normal. Odd thing was another c2 pulled into the garage area and as the guy shut off his engine, I didnt hear the noise I had.. So what should/can I do now, Turn up the radio and the noise will all go away?

What a waste of time taking it to the dealer..I thought they get paid for warranty work?

Loren,

No knocking and I never use anything under 93oct I'm going to trya bottle of that fuel cleaner on my next refill. It could be the ignition switch, let me try to turn the key all the way left the next time to see if I still get the idling ghost..

My first thoughts are:

Bad gas (octane too low - knocking?) or a bad ignition switch...

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With all my past and current vehicles, when I twist the key to turn off the engine, that is exactly what I get.. The engine shuts off. But with the p-car there's a second delay as the engine sounds like it's choking or hmm can't explain it.. It just doesn't sound like it's a clean engine shut off. DO you guys get this or is there something wrong with my p-car? COuld it be a weak battery?

Where??

:eek:

I see the missing black plastic keeper in your picture.  Just a joke.

Sell the Sears part to Porsche Motorsports.

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1 more

WHo needs a 10 dollar part that porsche deosn' even stock when you can goto sears and get a replacement for .19 cents.. ahhaha :)

Worked like a charm and I didn't even have to screw new threads into the stock piece..

gotcha! eyeing it should be suffice.. even if I have to use 2 hands to get that sucker in gear I think i'm good.. <_<

Depends on what you mean critical.  This is a car, not a brain.

Each grove is just a hair from the next one.  So if you are a few groves off the transmission does not know.  If you are too many groves off then you can pop out of gear or have a problem getting into gear.

I was at my dealer last week talking to the mechanics I know.  There is a new tool catalog that just came out.  There still is no locking bridge for the 996 Porsche/B&M short shift.  I doubt if there will ever be one since the 997/987 is out.

A mechanic told me that when they replace the cables on a car with a short shift he puts the transmission in neutral - holds the shift lever in the neutral position - and snaps the cables into the cable connectors.  Take it for a test drive and if it shifts properly then it is out the door.

If he can see the wear marks on the connectors then he uses that as a reference to snap in the new cables.

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My car seems to be shifting ok, but everyone has gotten me paranoid.. I don't think My cables are aligned perfectly. SHould I get the tool and re-adjust? I'm thinking my shifting could get/feel better if I did so..What do you guys think, worth it or waste of time?

I do I do.. So that's what that "pling" sound was.. :) I didnt see anything fly out so I didnt think anything of it.. Geesh, what piece could be anywhere in the car or garage floor for I had both doors wide open.. hahahaha Is that retaingn clip held on by a pin or spring? Would it have had enough force to pop out at that velocity?

wow.. Is it that critical to have the cables aligned perfectly? What will happen if I dont have the tool and align the cables? I didn't remove the left cable end and it appears to have no threads showing.. Is that the way its set from the factory? My right side has about 4 threads showing

I put in an EVO shift link and tested it before I put in the B&M, and the cable connector came off.  I too had to turn it 180 degrees so that the the round black plastic keeper held it in place.  I thought that was the problem, but your part number threw me off because it is for something else.

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Mine can be put on both sides.. If I rotate it 180 degrees I could still get it in place.. I think I lost my black cap... take a look..

Is it this part or something that looks like it?

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Yes I think that's it... Not sure if I had it or not bc i've never seen it.. But c4s stated that something is suppose to go in there.. How is that held in place? bc when I tried to pop it out I heard a "Pling" like something snapped off but didnt see anything fly hahahha I'm gonna look for it but chances are its lost..

BTW, is that a separate part that can be bought or ordered from the dealer?

You guys are awesome.. :)

BTWW, what the heck is an LSD? (limited slip Diff?)

Wait a sec, mine doesn't go in like that.. I think the c4s's are different then the c2's. After I take the wifey out to dinner i'm going to open that puppy up again and see what's going on.. I'll post some pics.. I'm im not mistaken I have the white cylinfer at the end of the cable end that plugs into another white hole that is attached to the shift box lever.

Even though my reverse has not popped out yet, I think I made the same mistake.. I don't think I have the retaining clip. I searched all over the place for it but no luck. I will take it apart again tonight to see if its no stuck to the box anywhere, the grease from the shifter may have caused it to stick to the plastic.

BTW, The B&M instructions are ok, but not great..

you don't need the white square w/ the bm. there is a plastic retaining clip that pops into the left/reverse rod end, sounds like you don't have that in, that's what holds it in place.

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