carsareart

I have been running Nexen's on my 18s and I like em. They do a good job and are affordable. I only get about 10 k out of the rears so cheap is good for me.

On my 17s I just installed a set of BFGoodrichs. They are doing fine too. I drive my car year around and autocross every chance I get.

I just installed the pan with the updated baffles on mine last weekend. There is several more baffles in the system and a larger space where the oil pickup is. I found it onsale from SunCoast Motorsports for 199.95. I do not think this will hurt anything. With the additional baffles it looked like it would help.

Part number for my car was 996-107-243-40, I also purchased the adhesive sealant 043-204-35.

I tried the baking on an old tail light. I must of over cooked it (10 min at 250 degrees) because it bent on my picking it up. I was able to get it apart but with the new angle it would of never gone back together. Good thing it was a throw away. The next time I will try at a little lower temp. Anyone have a trashed light they want to donate?

I too would like to take mine apart and polish the inner lens on my headlight. I have seen where some people bake em and take em apart. I am looking for a trashed light to experiment with.

Well I have found out that some cars have bolts, and some cars have pins. Mine has a pin on the drivers side and a bolt on the passenger side. The Pin is a 2cm long pin that is 6mm thick. It has a cut in it for an E-clip (5mm).

I found a second pin at "Oklahoma Foreign" in Moore Oklahoma. They had one in a bolt bin and I also found another little trim part I was looking for. These guys are great, they always take good care of me.

I took my new parts home and proceeded to remove the bolt from the passenger side. I found that the center mount is threaded. ?!? So I put the bolt back in and put the now extra pin in my tool box.... I guess someone in my cars past worked on the spoiler and either put one in with a pin or one in with a bolt.

The good news is the spoiler retracts as it should and I still get to drive in the autocross in the morning!

cool idea! Good Job.

I too have been looking at the Bilstein shocks. I have put them on my BMW and they are a little stiffer than my stock shocks were. Control is great. Let us know how they work out. I will be in the market for shocks in the next year or so.

subscribed, I am interested in new bulbs for mine too!

There is a pin that connects number 17 to number 3. On the other side of the car there is a bolt.

Ok, it is looking like the pin is in part number 17. There is a pin just before the two bolts that attach it to part number 3 that allows it to rotate as the spoiler goes up and down.

I have been to every hardware store in my area.....no luck. I might try a motorcycle shop and an aircraft hardware store in town too....???? Salvage yard? Worst case would be a machine shop to build another.

My son noticed my rear spoiler was not retracted evenly on my engine cover. Upon inspection I noticed that the hinge part that connects to the spoiler on the drivers side had a pin that was coming out. This is the pin that is the outermost connecting point on the spoiler, there is one on each side. It is connected to the motorized part of the spoiler. Anyway the pin is missing a c-clip, had started to come out and would not allow the spoiler to fully retract. The other side has a bolt put in it. I was thinking it should be one way or the other.

1999 996, C2 coupe, two wheel drive, Tiptronic, USA, 120k miles,

Thanks for your help.

I am using 5w50 syntec. One thing I noticed when I changed from 15w50 mobil 1 was the lack of valve noise on start up now. I allow my engine to idle for 30 sec to 1 min before I move the car out of my garage. When I was using 15w50 there was more noise from the engine during the first few seconds of runtime. I would like to find 5w50 mobil 1 but can not in my area.

I do autocross about once a month.

1999, 120,000 miles.

I removed mine last week. After I removed the battery cable I pushed the Flasher Light switch (of course nothing happened) as a precaution. Someone once told me to do that to make sure the power was all drained off.

The car is finished! They did a great job. It is amazing what a Great PDR person can do. The interior is back together. Thanks again.

Thanks for the suggestion, I had not thought about it. This is a great website. Thanks for all you do for us.

Loren,

I am in the process of removing the interior of my car getting it ready for Paintless Dent Repair. I was caught in a Thunderstorm with hail. Every panel of the car was damaged. I have been able to find instructions for removing each of the panels except for the interior panel of the sunroof. I have not been able to figure it out. Could you help?

1999 996 C2

Sunroof, Tiptonic, 119,000 miles

As I recall the Cayman might be a little stiffer than a 911, I could be wrong but.....maybe. My car is an older one and before I would take on newer car payments I would put some money into replacing wearable parts. My rear seems to fit real nice into the seat of the car, kinda molded in now.......I know her squeaks and rattles....

Now one thing I did do was to cut my old floor mats and tuck them into the open spot under my seat. I can not tell if it really does any good as far as noise but I feel better.

What a great idea. What did you use for the part on the pad that goes into the slot on the car?

I would suggest you purchase the largest ones you can fit under the car. I have worked in a shop before and we had a stand fail under load once. Not a pretty sight.

I have a pair of 3 ton and two pairs of 6 ton stands I keep in my garage.

I use to have some light weight stands I purchased many years ago. I got rid of them the day I almost dropped a car off of them.

In one of the car clubs I belonged to, one of the guys was crushed under his car when his jack failed. Look at your car and see how much room is between the car and the floor.....then ask yourself how much do you want to spend on jack stands?

And as far as the Jack goes, I have a small lightweight jack that I can take on the road if needed and a huge heavy shop jack. So what if I spend a few extra dollars for a jack that is rated for more than I will use. Notice each of the jacks you guys are looking at were made in China, by the lowest bidder.....How much extra capacity do you really have?

Sorry about the reply but I'm just an old man who has had a few close calls.

I have a jack like the Torin and one I purchased from Sams many years ago. I use both depending on my current project with jack stands of course.

One thing I really like about the jack from sams is that it has a removable saddle so I can put in a saddle designed for my Porsche. The Torin type is really nice because I can carry it out on a road trip if needed.

Use those Jack Stands!

I normally budget about 100.00 a month.

This year I will spend a little more with a full brake job.

I try to do all of my own work too.

Mine has the same code. It comes back about once a month. I replaced the gas cap last time. Code is back. I cleared it with a code reader. I guess it is time to start checking lines and the canister.

My son dropped a part on mine over Christmas Break....... small dent, we were able to have it PDR'ed. A little polish and we came out lucky. My son was nervous to say the least.

By the way I like the parking job PViby... I normally park way out and hike in.

As far as someone keying your car, sorry to hear it.

Best of Luck guys.

I am glad to hear that I was not the only one having this problem. I was looking at the design of the oil fill tube and thought it might not be getting hot enough. Thanks for the information.

Well then that settles it, I will just have to go for a longer drive......Darn it Honey, I have to do it for the car.........

Sounds good to me.

since winter has set in mine is doing the same. I am running Castor Oil Syntec 5w50 on a fresh oil change. I am thinking my car never quite warms up. I plan on cleaning the mess out and watching the fluid levels very closely.

Keep me posted on how yours is doing.