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gnetwerker

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Everything posted by gnetwerker

  1. gnetwerker
    I have a (new to me) 2004 C4S, which includes the M680 option ("Bose sound system including autopilot (digital)"), and I don't see anything in the front trunk at all. Is the amp hidden behind some panel somewhere, or do I have the version all driven from the CDR-23 in the dash?
  2. gnetwerker
    That was essentially the idea behind my suggestion to use a "switching" 3.5mm jack. This is a jack to which you run both a source wire and a return (per channel). When a plug is inserted, that source is selected (mechanically), and when it is removed, the other (default) source is sent down the return. This appears to be how Becker Audio's hack for the CDR23 works, using the FM input in the head end. On another note, it puzzles me that no one has come up with a comprehensive CD-changer emulator that works over Bluetooth. SIgh.
  3. gnetwerker
    Having installed the AUX-in cable to the CDR-220 in my (now defunct) Boxster S, I can say this (which you may already know): the reason everyone says that you must disconnect the CD changer is that the solutions for AUX-in involve the same connector as the CD changer. Here is what you could do: if you are willing to cut a wire, you could find the Audio-in and Audio ground connections on that connector, clip on end and run it to a switching 3.5mm headphone jack. This way, when the iPod was plugged in, you would disconnect the CD changer, and vice-versa. My commentary: once you have the iPod connected, you will never use the CD Changer again. References: http://www.iwirep.com/products/iwirep-220-ipod http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsche/aux_input_CR_CDR%20220.html http://www.dension.com/product/iPod-iPhone-car-adapters/iPod-car-kits/bluetooth-car-kits/gateway-500
  4. gnetwerker
    I said I would post here with what transpired. Attached are some photos with the door off and part of the rear quarter panel cut away. It turns out there was some damage to the internal rear bulkhead, and that pushed it over to being totaled. Allstate is offering just under $20k for it, but I'm going to lobby for just a little more. To refresh, "it" was my beloved 2001 Seal grey 'S' with 44k gentle miles, a hardtop, and a sport package. If you are in the Portland, OR area and are interested in the wreck or the hardtop, I'll be posting in the appropriate areas. I've purchased a 2004 C4S, so I'll see you in the 996 forums!
  5. gnetwerker
    My Boxster S was wrecked recently, and I'm looking at a step up to a C4s. However, the one I'm looking at has just come back from the PPI with a Range 1 number of 9400 and a Range 2 number of 15. I've read the other threads, so I know this means 9400 "ignitions" above 7k rpm -- this is perhaps about 26 total seconds over-rev. Nonetheless, that seems like a car ('04 with 48k mi) that has been ridden hard and put away wet. Does anyone here have an opinion about owning such a car/engine, or what to de-rate a price based on this? Thanks in advance.
  6. gnetwerker
    Thank you guys for your good wishes and info. You can understand that I can't post anything about the human side other than to say that everyone walked (limped?) away. I will definitely let everyone know how it shakes out.
  7. gnetwerker
    An idiot ran a red light and t-boned me a couple of days ago, center-punching the passenger side door pretty good. My wife was on the shotgun side, but the airbag deployed and I guess these things are built pretty well. The damage appears to be mostly contained to the door, with a little involvement on the sill underneath, and on the right rear quarter-panel. It is/was a 2001 Boxster S, 42k mi, grey/black, with a hardtop that wasn't on at the time. Any opinion on whether this is totaled? Would any of you buy it after repair? Drive it? Anyone been through this before? They other guy's insurance is with Allstate, which I'm told is unfortunate for me. I'd love to trade up to a late-model Carrera 4s Cabrio, but I'm thinking that's not in the cards.
  8. gnetwerker
    OK, here's an easy one (I hope) for you experts. I've got at '01 S with a hardtop. While it requires a contortionist to plug in the rear-defroster jack, I've done it for years now and it always worked. This year, I put the top on, plug in the jack, and don't think about it until the first frosty day, and when I punch the button on the dash, the little light doesn't go on and it doesn't defrost. So next time I can get down on my knees on the driveway, I check the fuse (number D-2, near as I can tell), and it is fine. Before I take it to the shop, do you guys have any ideas? Can that plug go in backwards? Any way to diagnose this? One more thing (and I don't even like to think about it): I pulled the radio this summer, to put in one of those CDR-to-iPod cables. Please don't tell me I need to take it all apart again to check.
  9. gnetwerker
    Try 7113 or 7111 Just back from my mechanic, and those codes did not work. I double-checked the serial number, etc. They also got a code from the dealer (2198) that didn't work either, and the one in the ECM (7168) also didn't work. Any ideas, or do I need to call Becker? If you used the method in the FAQ to display the actual serial number and my guesses did not work - then you will need to call (and pay) Becker. Sorry. In case it helps refine your algorithm, I called (and paid) Becker, and got a working code: 7124. You provide a great service here for everyone, even if it didn't work this once. Thanks!
  10. gnetwerker
    Try 7113 or 7111 Just back from my mechanic, and those codes did not work. I double-checked the serial number, etc. They also got a code from the dealer (2198) that didn't work either, and the one in the ECM (7168) also didn't work. Any ideas, or do I need to call Becker?
  11. gnetwerker
    Yep, on analysis, even with a 6amp charger on it for 24 hours it isn't over 65% charged, so it is likely a bad battery. The coincidence is weird, though. I'll pop the tops and look at the fluid levels tomorrow and let y'all know. If that doesn't do it, its the shop next week and see what they say.
  12. gnetwerker
    I'm not a super motorhead, but I thought it would be simple enough to install an AUX audio cable to the CDR-220 stereo in my 2001 S. Well, either by coincidence or because of something I FU'd, I am no longer keeping a charge on my battery. The car starts when jumped, it starts if I charge the battery overnight, but within a few hours being turned off and parked, the battery is drained. There are no obvious problems -- no lights left on, etc. I pulled the radio again to see if I had pinched some wires or did something else obvious, and didn't see anything. I'm not near a shop right now, so I haven't tested the battery, but it is only a year or so old. The good news is that the radio now works with my MP3 player, but that's not of much use if I can't drive anywhere! Ideas?
  13. gnetwerker
    CDR 220 Type: 4462 Serial: 15064891 24/99 Thanks in advance.
  14. gnetwerker
    Same story with me. At about 20k miles, my '01 S started with what I thought was bad tire noise. Took it to the tire shop, and while it was on the rack I tried to see if it was the bearing (left, rear), but I couldn't detect any jitter or rattle. The tires didn't solve the problem, though, and when I next went to my (very good) mechanic, they diagnosed it and replaced it. The very odd thing was that the right rear did the same thing about 500 miles later.
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