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About Ray_huge

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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2004 Cayenne S
    2006 Mercedes E55
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T

Ray_huge's Achievements


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  1. For the wiring can one simply splice into the harness to power the trailer lights? Or do you need to do something special?
  2. Yeap the end of the plastic tube broke off. You need to get that out of there. I used a small chisel and "cut " the metal ring so you can collapse it and pull it out. Then just break apart the the plastic. Be careful not to scratch up the housing or let any plastic bits fall in the hole.
  3. Sorry I don't have the pictures.. the wife accidently erased them when she used the camera last. Here is a brief write up. Hopefully this will give you an idea of whats involved. No special tools required. 1.Drain remaining coolant. Take the belly pan off and on the passenger side of the radiator (bottom) is a plastic drain plug (blue I think). 2.Take all the plastic around the perimeter of the engine off. (Lots of quick release plastic bolts) 3.Take the plastic engine covers off. I removed the secondary air injection units (black round things near the fire wall) from the bracket and just moved them aside without disconnecting them. This gave me enough room to get the plastic engine covers off. On the passenger side you have to remove the engine support ( 4 bolts that go into the head) in order to take the plastic cover off. Don’t worry the engine isn’t going any where. 4.Take the Y pipe off that goes to the throttle body. The 2 plastic bolts on the throttle body simple turn till you line them up to the key way then pull them straight up. Under the Y pipe is a hose that you have to disconnect so be careful when removing the Y pipe. 5.Undo the electrical connections to the throttle body and remove the various emission tubes that cross the intake. You squeeze the connection and pull straight off. I think there are two or three tubes. 6.Remove the throttle body… 4 bolts and it comes right off. 7.Remove the 4 bolts that hold the injector rail in place. You won’t be able to remove the injector rail until you loosen up the intake manifold and move it forward a bit. I simply pried up the injector rail with the fuel injectors left attached to the rail. Of course undo the electrical connections to the fuel injectors first! 8.Undo the bolts holding the intake manifold on. The bolts don’t come out they remain attached to the intake manifold. Once loose move the intake manifold up and forward to give you enough room to take the injector rail off and move it to one side. I used a piece of wire and hung it off the hood on the driver’s side. 9.At the back of the intake manifold are two vacuum connections. One is a hard pipe and the second is a rubber pipe. Undo these and the intake manifold will come right out. 10.Now you will see the 3 coolant pipes. They are held down by a plastic clamp at the back of the engine. I think there are 3 bolts you have to undo and there’s a wire harness that is also attach to the plastic bracket. Once removed you then can get at the hose clamps and slide those back to remove the rubber hoses from the plastic pipe. Then remove the 3 coolant pipes. 11.Now you have access to the large coolant pipe which is probably the one leaking. To remove this pipe you need to break it into two pieces. I guess this is why they use to remove the engine to get to this pipe in the early days. The new pipe comes in 2 pieces with a piece of rubber hose to connect the two. I used a large screw drive to break the pipe and then some tin snips and pliers to take out a large enough part of the center section of the pipe. (In order to not make a huge mess I broke the top of the pipe off and then sucked out as much coolant with a vacuum pump before completely breaking the pipe in two.) The pipe is very brittle so it will break away in large chunks. Then twist the pipe as you pull it – it will be very difficult, just take your time. Otherwise, it will snap off and leave a nice chunk lodged in the inlet of the engine. (I did this what a pain in the butt to get the remainder out). Do the same with the other half of the pipe. 12.Clean everything up. When putting the new aluminum pipes on I oiled up the o-rings so they would slide in to place a lot easier. It takes some force to get the pipes on and in place. Make sure you install the pipe that goes into the front of engine first with the rubber connection already on it and the hose clamps as well. When tightening up the hose clamps make sure the screw body on the clamps is nice and low otherwise it will interfere with the 3 coolant pipes above. 13.Now install the 3 coolant pipes and the new bracket that holds the pipes and reinstall everything else :) Hope that helps! :)
  4. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial Coolant Pipe replacement. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
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